Hugh

AWESOME! Thank you so much. After going over all the signals in the wiring diagram, I had figured out on my own that I could just remove the gauge and tap the wires together there. I was considering running an entire new piece of wire all the way in, just to replace the 30yr old POS wire thats in there. I will remove bypass the gauge after work today and report back with my results. Thank you!

I haven't found that little box yet, but I will go look for it. Thanks for your response. I feel like an idiot with this new car of mine. Funny how technology has changed over the years. I researched the entire wiring digram last night in an hour or so. Try that with a modern vehicle.

My alternator is outputting nothing. I've been troubleshooting, and I finally narrowed it down to the white/black wire at the alternator. It's supposed to get ignition 12v. Mine is reading nothing with the ignition switch in any position. The Chiltons tells me there is a fuse somewhere between the ignition switch and the alternator. I can't find it. (sorry, new car to me) Can someone please direct to where that fuse can be found?

Oh, you mean people who don't know the difference between and S and Z car? Yeah, I see that a lot. It's funny to watch a guy in the auto parts store looking up a part for a '92 240zx.

The more I've looked at it, the more I think the front end of the GT-R rail may line up. I may have to build the back end of the inner side up somehow... or weld on a spacer of some sort. I don't think this seat wants to come off the stock rail... its pretty much a single unit. Whatever I do, I will take a bunch of pictures and report back with my findings from fitting to completion.

I figured out the hard way what the knob on the right under my dash does. Whats the knob on the left for??

I searched, I couldn't find anything on exactly this subject. Sorry if this is a newb question: My alternator is new, the battery is new. Sometimes it charges fine, sometimes (like tonight) it kills the battery. I got in there and shook the alternator hot wire around... give it a jump, and it works! There's some real problem there, and I want to replace the wiring. (it looks to be 30 year old wiring) The ammeter in the dash doesn't work. It's stuck on the center all the time. I could care less about the gauge, as it will be coming out for aftermarket gauges soon. (Apexi EL 60mm) So how can I completely eliminate that gauge? Can I just run a different hotwire to another spot? (I'm thinking a nice 12 gauge or something like that) I read another thread where someone had run the hotwire to the starter? That I'm not too sure about.

Better that than the opposite!

I have a problem in my 73 where my left blinker doesn't work, but the right one does... I took the switch apart and it appears to be fine? I cleaned it, put it back together, and still no left blinker. All the other functions work... has me thinking its wiring is messed up.

Wow, thats not bad at all. With flat rails, I'm sure I could make it work. I'm just hoping the reclining system survives the swap. (sometimes I like to adjust the angle... and the adjuster is low on the GTR seat)

Thanks guys. I hear that on the aftermarket Tach. I figure thats best for when my SR20DET goes in, anyway. I guess its time for shopping.

There are several turbo kits out for the KA24DE engine, as well. It does have a decent aftermarket. However, I am of the SR20DET influence.

I searched and found nothing on these particular seats. I'm wondering if anyone knows someone who has fitted these seats into a 240z. (I have a 1973 240) It appears as though the Z floor is flat, where the GTR and Silvias have a high center by the tranny tunnel.. making the GTR rail a problem. I suppose I will have to overcome this somehow. If I were to buy aftermarket rails and mount them that way, anyone know which rails sit the lowest? I really don't want my helmet planted into the headliner when racing. Thanks for any info.

I put in my Tec3 myself, it was very hard to get the engine started. Once my friend got it to idle for me, I tuned everything after that. This was on my SR20DET, though. Sorry I don't have any maps for you. If you can get help to get it running, you should be able to figure it all out after that. If you'd like to ask any specific questions about tuning, you can always email me at 1bad180sx@nismo.org

I didn't install the engine, so I don't know what they did to the tach signal. I have no tach whatsoever right now. (just bought the car) I'm going to pull the engine soon for my SR20DET, but I'd like to have a tach until then. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the tach signal from the L28 into my dash? Thanks for being patient with me. I am a newb to the Z, but not a newb to Nissan racing. Oh its a 73 240z, and I was told a 75 L28.

I've seen a couple posts of people looking for these manuals. You should know I have them all available for download on my site here: http://www.zeroyon.com Click on Tech, then service manuals. There's also some more SR20DET specific info in the tech section that may help some people out. I just recently aquired the 1989-90 240sx manual with the KA24E, and I will add that soon.

Okie Dokie. I'm back and will have to hang out for a while now. I bought my first 240z today. Its a 73, white, L-28 w/4-speed. I will be pulling all of this in favor of my SR20DET setup, which will (as I mentioned earlier) be headed for 600rwhp at 24psi on the T3/T67. Here's a pic of the car: Like I said, I bought it today... so no mods to it yet. (or extensive pics) Sorry to whomever was offended by my comment about Carbon Fiber parts. I realize they are a little lighter if designed for racing, but 99% of carbon fiber parts out there today are Carbon Fiber and glaze laid over fiberglass, and actually weigh more. I do realize that some companies are actually taking advantage of the benefits of the actual CF itself, and not just the Bling Bling prices. So, I apologize for that. I am looking for aftermarket parts to replace the entire front end. I want to drop weight off that ridiculously heavy hood, replace the fenders (they have a little rust anyway) and anything else that can go. I will most likely drop the cash for all fiberglass parts, but not go so far as to buy CF parts. The car comes with the bumpers, too.... but I hate the stock bumpers. I will leave them off and get a kit that cleans it up. Anyone have some good ones that hide the bumper mounts? I've found some nice front bumpers, but for the back... it seems that the good ones all fit under the bumper. I want to cover it as well. Sorry such a long post. I'm just excited about my new car. SilLady, the GT25R on an SR20DET can make 350hp easily. With cams and aftemarket intake and exhaust manifolds, it will reach 400rwhp. Do not expect anything past that with it. It is a great turbo, though.

Carbon Fiber Hoods are all about the bling bling. If you're going to paint it, just buy the fiberglass. It's not any heavier. It just needs to be painted. Bushido: I'm thinking the 240sx will just be transportation until the 240z is up and running. I anticipate a few weeks of down time, and the daily driver will be necessary. I do not plan to modify the 240sx, though... beyond the suspension, wheels, and seats that are in it now. I was considering the 1200 and the 510 as well, but every time I see a sharp looking S30, I get jealous. I want mine!

My previous car was a JDM Nissan 180sx making 395rwhp. I reached that power level with a strictly stock internal motor. (including the cams and ports) I already have and was using the Electromotive Tec3 standalone, making a swap into another body very simple. My plan is to purchase a 240z and put the afformentioned motor in it. I am living in california now, and had to leave the 180sx in japan. I stripped it completely, though. I also bought a larger turbo setup and intake manifold, TB, etc... When I get the second motor completed, it will reach ~600rwhp at 24psi. This car will be built for street driving and drag racing at the track. I need to figure out the most livable rear end setup that will allow for this type of power, and for drag racing... but then comfortable enough to drive around. I already have a 240sx that I was planning to build, but I've wanted a 240z all my life. Seems like now's the time. (before I start building on the 240sx)