Hugh

This could easily be done. If you could put a clutch controlled roots blower on the engine, and then a full turbo setup with a laggy turbo... All you need is a boost switch that measures boost in the intercooler piping to rise to a point and then cut the clutch to the supercharger. A roots blower will not boost the intake piping, so the systems would in effect be seperate from eachother. My main concern would be the supercharger blocking the air flow into the engine, though. Especially since we're talking big turbo and big power here. Nissan has mass-produced a super turbo motor in the past. It was a 990cc Nissan March sold in Japan. This little car was supposedly scarey fast... every seems to love them if they've driven them. It had like 110hp and 94ft/lbs from that little motor. Of course it was a dorky little econo-box that only weighed 1700 pounds, though.

I don't like that at all, sorry. It looked so good before.

The ring gear is 200mm, hence the name "R200" The bolt size is what differs. I don't know enough about those older diffs, but in the new ones the bolt are either 12mm or 13mm.

Yeah, its a street/strip car. It's actually gonna be driven everyday.... so the brakes will matter more on the street. I don't drive the crap outta my car, but I do live in SoCal, where traffics stops without notice... so I don't want something that will give up when I'm trying to stop for some idiots in a fender bender. To me right now, the brakes feel seriously weak. I don't have any confidence in them. I know good pads and rotors can help, but only marginally. Unless someone can suggest some really good street pads?? I felt like I was going to hit someone the other day when they just decided to lock up their brakes in front of me. There was someone changing lanes in front of them, so they felt it necessary to slam on their brakes. I was all over the back of their car... it ruined my drive for the morning. I'd like to have some brakes I can instill a little confidence in.

I'm just thinking about bringing the car down from a deep ten second 1/4 mile run... I learned how not to kill myself driving my 395rwhp 180sx. I couldn't spool the turbo up with anyone in front of me, thats for sure! I'd be knee-deep in their ass before I had a chance to hit the brakes.

So you think these brakes are sufficient for the front of a 600hp Z? I don't want to drop the cash on something that will have to be upgraded again later. It seems like a nice brake setup. It's still pretty cheap, even with the other parts required.

Use a wideband to set the precise A/F ratio. I use the Innovate LM1 - http://www.innovatemotorsports.com Then use the EGT gauge to adjust your timing and put the EGT right where you want it. Advance a little to drop the temp. If you advance too far, the temp will rise again.

I don't know about your specific A/F ratio... My experience is all with turbo, and my A/F goals are very different than yours.

Oh, alright. I thought the rotors and brackets were bolt up pieces... THe Ebay auctions said they were two piston, I went with what they had said.

And next, lets see it smoking the tires off the wheels!! Heh heh

Ahh, well... he doesn't have a location under his name... I hear "smog" I assume california

The turbos on most cars do not glow, thats the truth. They only glow hot when run hot. Like someone said above, advancing timing will bring the temp down. If you put an exhaust temp gauge in the turbine inlet or in the manifold before the turbine, you can monitor this change when you advance your timing. You will see that a couple degrees of advance can drop exhaust temps by a hundred or even hundreds of degrees.

You need a wideband. Does the F9 have datalogging? Regardless, I would buy the Innovate Motorports Wideband. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com I have this device, and it has worked wonders for my car and others I've tuned with it. It has integrated datalogging, which is great for a computer without it built in. However, I have an Electromotive Tec3. I input the wideband signal to the Tec3 and run it down the street. It monitors the air/fuel ratio perfectly, and I just tweak it a couple percent at a time until its dead on the a/f I'm looking for. Tuning without a wideband is like running in the dark. Tuning with a wideband makes the fuel maps idiot-proof. (even for a beginner, especially for a beginner) You said you made a drastic adjustment to your timing map... that has to do with midrange torque a lot. If you don't run enough timing, it will be sluggish. You should find a proven timing map for your motor and run that... even with a big cam, timing should only be off a couple degrees. Dropping it several degrees will pull all the power out in the low end. Oh, and the innovate LM1 wideband has two programmable outputs. I put a 5v signal to the Tec3, and run a 1v signal to a narrowband gauge which I calibrated to dead-on accuracy. I then hid the wideband in the glove box, because its big and ugly. (but works great!)

My wife's Miata has the switches in the center, I like that a lot. The switch console from a Miata won't work, however... due to the angle it sits at. (you push down for the windows to go down, pull up to go up. This will really mess me up if I put them in the opposite direction.... every time I drive her car I'll be trying to put them down and they'll be going up.

I've found the Cobra Calipers on Ebay fro $250 a pair. Combines with the Modern Motorsports brackets for $75 and some rotors, this is a cheap setup. Will these two piston calipers haul down a 400-600hp 240z well?

Glowing red turbos come from two things: A. Crappy Tuning. (running lean) This is solved by good tuning. B. Beating on it for an extended period of time. (the wreaks havoc on the whole car, and your brakes will match the turbos) This isn't a problem unless you will be racing on a road course for several minutes or something.

I bought a SPAL actuator kit to put power locks in my wife's car. It was like $24 on Ebay, and the quality is great. The only problems I ran into with it were with my crappy installation. I think that has more bearing on the quality than anything else. If you do a good job putting them in, they should work fine. Before I thought the MSA kit was unique to the Z. Now I see it is universal like the rest..... damn. I'd wire the switches into the center console myself. It looks like crap to have those switches side mounted on the doors.

Is it prohibitively difficult to remove your intercooler pipes and clear the path? I'm pretty sure it won't be possible without removing the piping... but thats easy stuff. Be sure he builds it in a way that it can be removed!

No. Sorry. 1975 and earlier in the state of california. This isn't changing in the new year anymore.

Well, you put it into words very well. I can totally see what you mean. It's a Niche market, and they've cornered it. On the daily driving issue: In my experience with large laggy turbos and small responsive turbos... small turbos are very easy to drive. Why? They're easily predictable, and therefore easily learned. If your turbo lags a bit, when it comes on its like a slingshot... all the while its winding up and then WHAM!! boost. This catches rookie drivers off guard, and causes them to put the car sideways down the street. (I did it in my first laggy turbo setup) Exhaust manifold design has shown that adding several inches can increase lag by a couple hundred RPM. This is through my own experience, and through various setups I've seen on the internet on several different engines. If such an impact can be made in a short distance, I fear to see the difference between 1 foot and 15 feet from the head. Granted, a V8 can push some exhaust pressure down low, but its the temp that spins the turbine. On the physics of the system, certainly, the turbine spinning depends on a few factors, but temp is the most important one. Temp is the vairiable that increases volume of the air, etc... I don't see them using any fancy new exhaust wheels to compensate for lower exhaust temps, I see common off-the-shelf parts in their turbos. I'm kinda playing the devils advocate here... regardless of my opinion, a Z with this setup would be cool. I'd like to see it.

$219 http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PWC

It only costs something like $27,500 to pass the car supposedly. Add in the cost of crash testing them... and you're buying an NSX while you're at it.

Well, if you put a turbo on it like the one pictured there, it WILL make 350ft/lbs of torque and snap the axles. My motor peaked at 362 ft/lbs with a smaller compressor than the one there. It also layed waste to 180sx driveline parts which are much stronger than the Z. If you're planning something pretty much stock, then it will be fine. If you get carried away, it won't. I don't want you SBC guys getting confused and thinking the SR20DET is a weakling. Forced induction goes a long way on this motor. Torque is on par with horsepower in the 350-400hp range. It's not til you go past 400 that you will see a large difference in torque and horsepower peaks. Drag launching the car properly requires putting the engine into its torque band... so if you make 350ft/lbs at 6000 instead of 3000rpm , it will still break parts. Oh, and the search engine here returned nothing useful in my SR swap research either. It actually turned up a lot of threads where people said "Search"... but no real info.

Those are the 510 size lights. Whoops!

If you could narrow the suspension pickup points without narrowing the motor mounts... then I think it would work well. However, I think you may be working backwards here.... strengthening the motor mount area, and weakening the front suspension. I'm sure with the right thought put into it, it will work though.