Hugh

Yep, you can pick up a little fuel effiency and emissions. My Tec3 can run Sequential or Phased, or whatever else you want. I run Phased, so two of my injectors are paired, and the other two are paired. (on my SR20DET) When I installed this system, I was removing the OEM direct fire ignition and sequential injection system to replace it with Waste Spark and Phased Injection. I was concerned this was a step backwards in technology... my friend assured me it would be fine. Well, 50hp later... he turned out to be right. (I gained 50rwhp by adding the Tec3 and tuning for two nights)

Oh man, Carbon Fiber ZG flares? I'll buy those if someone is making them. Those would add like zero weight to the car, and be strong as heck!

I think the same turbo placed up closer to the engine would creat much higher exhaust temps on the turbine and therefore spool it faster, much faster... and have a longer power band. The pressure drop everyone complains about across an intercooler... hell, when you've got 15 feet of pipe to fill, theres a pretty massive chamber you must pressurize before the engine sees any boost at all. Most intercoolers lose 1psi. Simple solution, turn the boost up 1psi. If you're only running 4.5psi or 6psi or whatever, then more boost is really easy to come by. All these comments about how its 'better' than a conventional setup are ignoring the fact that conventional setups work great. Stuff they call benefits seems pretty backwards to me. It does work, I don't doubt that at all. I still think its a stupid place to put a turbo, and I would never do it. The system could be so much more efficient. I have a question: Why should you put the turbo back there? What benefit does this have, aside from hiding the turbo and cleaning up the engine bay? (which I don't see as a benefit)

Thats a phantom grip, and it's made for open diff's. The VLSD case would get in the way of that in a VLSD. (its a sealed unit as far as I know)

The SR20DET with 6 speed uses a 3.6 final gear. You don't want to run it with a 4.1 or anything that high. It's alright on a 3.9, but still kinda short. There were rumors a few years back about the 6 speeds being weaker because the gears are smaller to accomodate a 6th one... however, there's been nobody out there complaining of blowing them up. I think it would be great for a road car/track car that you're not drag racing in. Those trannies are expensive and sought after... you'd be hurting if you blew one up.

Every thread I've found ends up with the same thing being said "Use the search" Well, I have. Any old picture links are now dead, and I can't find much thats useful. The R230 housings I have are obviously bigger than that of the R200 short noses, they have a bigger hump where the ring gear fits into the front end. They look just like the housing in the Z32 TT, but I didn't count the bolts on the rear cover. The flanges also look different, even after banging them out of the diff... but we just swapped them over and it worked great. The VLSD is extremely tight in these. It's not like every R200 diff I've driven, where your rear end kicks left because the left tire engages much quicker than the right. This diff will kick both tires at the same time. It's also very difficult to twist the shafts in opposite directions (whereas the R200 is easy) Either way, I can't find any pics of an install anywhere.

For that type of power handling, you should run -8 steel braided all the way up. I wouldn't consider using the stock lines whatsoever. -6 is rated to "499hp" from what I've read... so -8 is what I'm going with, too. (I'm going to hit 600 eventually)

Please keep us updated and take pics.

From what I can tell, the entire mounting of the diff has to be fabricated. I'm researching this myself, and finding very little info on it.

Actually, the KA and SR trannies have different output shafts. It's been proven... the SR has a beefier output shaft. If you break an SR tranny shaft and throw a KA tranny in, it will break even faster. If you're not drag racing, you'll be fine. The shafts snap on launches and shifts into second with lots of traction in my experience. You may still slowly twist the input shaft... but I would just swap trannies every now and then.

The KA transmission is far from bulletproof. It's built with a smaller output shaft than the SR20DET RWD transmission, and it breaks faster. If you put 400hp through it, expect it to snap either the input shaft or output shaft eventually. It will twist the shafts for a while before it breaks, though. (you can see where it twists them right on the splines) The synchros rip out of them pretty easily, and the gears will start shattering if you mis-shift or just shift poorly. If you manage to put it in between 3rd and 5th at full throttle, it will shear off 5th and reverse in one fatal swoop. (although the first four gears will keep working) The guys in the 240sx community are always looking for a way to upgrade transmissions to handle over 400hp. If you're looking for big power, I wouldn't waste the money or time to put a stock KA tranny in a Z. If you're looking for something to hold 300hp or so, it will do that just fine for a while... long enough to be worth it. My friend blew a few of them up when he had between 275-350hp, but they kept breaking teeth off the gears. When you put out 400hp, the shafts will twist and eventually snap.

I figured I'd grow out of having a subwoofer in my car... but nope... 28 years old, and I still love having that low end thump. Some people say its not necessary in a car. To me, its impossible to have in my condo without driving the neighbors crazy. I keep my loud music on the freeway where nobody hears it but me. I like to have my sound system extremely loud in the vehicle, and not so noticable on the outside. This is accomplished by having a powerful system without turning it up so loud. Having 1000watts potential doesn't mean you have to rock 1000watts all day... at a nice comfortable volume, all those speakers still sound great.

Sorry to bring an old post back from the dead, but it seems this discussion is on what I'm looking at. I have 4 R200's and 2 R230's. The R230's I have are from JDM Nissan vans (the Largo and the Serena) They have SHORT gear ratios (4.66 and 4.9) The housings are the same as the Z32 TT housing, but the output flanges don't have ABS sensors, and then input is a short nose with no HICAS sensor or speed sensor in it. The R200's I have, 3 of them are from S13 180sx/Silvias, and the other is from the R32 Skyline GTS-T. Out of all 6 of these diffs, the rear covers are swappable, as are the input and output flanges. I was running an R230 in my 180sx with the original 180sx 5 bolt output flanges, 180sx input flange and rear cover. It all bolted up aside from the two front mounting points. I had to use two large washers and the original bolts to hang the front end. This setup was very stout, and handled my 395rwhp/362ft/lbs without a problem. I am putting the SR20 into my Z, and would love to swap one of these diff's into it as well. I would most likely want to use the R200 from the R32 skyline (4.36 ratio) and whatever combination of the flanges required. Can anyone direct me to a link or some pictures of anyone who has done this? I've been searching extensively.

Ahh... some clear spray is a nice idea! Just to protect the surface even more, now that its smoothed out. To seperate them, I ran them under hot water in the bathtub and filled them up. Once the hot water soaks in for a minute, you can pull them right apart without a hitch! (the glue comes off like mozzarella cheese)

Heh, a lot of people overlook that... just try hitting the switch over and over for a while to see if it cleans it up.

Well, if the sanctioning bodies agree on hoop design... it might be for a reason. I'd still make it to some sort of specs so it saves your behind in an accident. A good friend of mine is alive today because of his roll cage in a T-bone accident. The toyota that hit him wrapped its front end around his roll cage. Amazing stuff... he walked away. I need to get a cage in mine.

I polished the other one last night. My forearms are a little worked from it, but its worth it in the end. The second one has more deep scratches on it, but still very un-noticable from even two or three feet away. When they're on the car, you won't be able to tell anything is wrong with them.

Assuming you check your torque on the bolts, and it is good.... the real issue here is the fact that the headgasket blew. I've seen people blow OEM nissan headgaskets and then replace them with HKS or Tomei... only to blow a piston. The headgasket is like a fuse for poor tuning. If it is torqued properly and the engine is tuned right... it won't blow. Now every engine has some times when its nice to fall back on a metal headgasket (like massive overboost... one that won't blow the pistons out in a few seconds, but would blow the headgasket) So its nice to have that in there. However, if you put in a metal headgasket on a poorly tuned engine and continue beating on it, it will blow the engine... it will take a piston next time, instead of the headgasket. The pressure has to go somewhere... And headgaskets don't feel any pressure if the piston is in the combustion chamber during ignition. If ignition happens prior to it entering the chamber, then pop goes the headgasket. I see it as a fuse. I use metal headgaskets, but I also tune with a wideband and run it full time to monitor A/F.

I've always seen the same results. Slower moving coolant does a better job. This is why pulleys that underdrive the water pump actually cool the engine down during extended high RPM runs. Being a drag racer, I've never really had cooling issues. As long as the car stays cool while idling, the short burst down the track has never been a problem. I had an under-hood air flow problem while idling in my last car that I solved by raising the back end of it an inch (ghetto venting) Supposedly this creates backwards airflow into the back end of the hood off the windshield, but I didn't care about cooling while moving. (the car ain't overheating in 11 seconds ) Your idea of a knob to control pump speed is a great idea. My main concern is current handling of the potentiometer and cables used to accomplish this. Be sure it is a high amperage Pot. and the cables are large enough. Electric water pumps suck a lot of current... and you don't want to start a fire under your dash while the water pump is dying and you are still running down the track.

Seems most engines like to idle a bit rich. I'll idle my car at 12.5:1 and then bring it up into the 13's while cruising off-boost. As soon as it hits boost, the A/F dips to a solid 12:1.

I lay them side by side and try to smooth out the bends as much as possible. Most catbacks seem to have harsh bends to make wide clearances on varying vehicles. If its your own car, you can make the clearances tighter and bends smoother.

Its not like a wax. It's actually smoothing out the entire surface of the plastic. The job I did on my wife's headlights still looks great after several months. I realize there's easier ways to make them look good, but this returns great permanent results.

I forgot to add, I got these lights off Ebay for less than $20 shipped. Buy new lights for $400? I don't think so... Now I just need to get the center piece re-chromed.

I thought there was a version of that muffler that is actually fiberglass wrapped to do some muffling? This type of muffler works great as an inline resonator to tone it down before a real muffler in the back.