Bartman

Here's a pic of my wheel and tire combination. I'll be replacing the rear drums with disc's soon, so it should look better then. 8)

Yes, I have everything now but the proportioning valve.

#$%@! I looked around online and the prices were much higher than $60, but i didn't check my local parts counter. Before I waste more money, where can I get the best deal on a wilwood proportioning valve? They're going for around $35 on eBay.

I just purchased a new zx master cylinder from eBay for $60! I was perplexed with my 73 having two proportioning valves, but now I know I can just remove them both and put in one Wilwood proportiong valve. My next task is to make some new brake lines.

Before I posted I used the search function and I've found some information about upgrading to later model Z or ZX 15/16" master cylinders, and about proportioning valves. My question is pretty specific in regards to my vehicle and how I intend to use it. In what I read it appears removing the existing valves is still questionable depending on the year of the vehicle. Also things change over time, and there may be better solutions now.

I'm putting Toyota 4-piston calipers with vented rotors on the front and disk brakes on the rear of my 1973 240Z. It will primarily be used on the street, but I would like to be able to take it to the track now and then. My question's are: Should I remove both of the existing mixing/proportioning valves and replace them with one aftermarket proportioning valve? Should I replace the brake master cylinder and/or booster? Whatever I need to replace, let me know what you think I should replace it with. The build tally is growing fast, so a cost effective solution is preferred. As always, any advice is appreciated.

Hey 2126, I don't remember your name. Do you mind posting it? If your trying to protect your identity because your in the federal witness protection program or something, just post a fake one. Isn't that you in the background of the picture on the right?

Okay, I successfully posted a few pic's. Let me know if you have any information about the car's I have pictures of. Tim's Monguuz LT1 Van's Z Who's car? Who's car?

I bought the Advanced Supension handling kit (blue's) and the front's were definitely progressive springs. He wouldn't take returns, so I sold them on eBay a couple of days later. I think the information I got from Tokico is probably correct. (140 lbs progressive front, 165 lbs linear rear).

If you decide to go with a 5-speed, you probably want a "World Class" T5. Search for T5 and you will find a lot of information about which ones to use, how to determine which T5 you have, what car's had T5 transmissions, etc.

I have my whole engine bay completely stripped of everything. I removed the complete front end, steering, brake and clutch master cylinders, etc. My question is, what else should I remove and what holes can I fill in? Since I can use the existing hood latch, I think I will leave that. The wire holders (circled in blue) should I remove all of them? There are a bunch of them on top of the right frame rail . Should I remove all the brake and fuel line holders (circled in red, again a bunch on the right frame rail)? I assume I should remove the pivot arm for the accelerator linkage (circled in purple)? What holes do I need to keep on the fender well (The one circled in green was for the coil)? I am going to paint the engine bay the same color as the exterior of the car and I want it to be as clean (uncluttered) as possible.

I'd love to see your car sometime, I live in Horsethief Canyon Ranch so we're pretty close. Thanks everyone for your comments and advice. It looks like I'll be scoring an LT1 T56 combination. I've got new urethane bushings, toyota brake calipers, new strut cartridges, new springs, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, all on order to prepare for the upcoming horsepower. I'll post pic's after I paint the engine compartment and install all the new components.

Congratulations, on making your decision! I will most likely be doing the exact same drivetrain combination in my 73 240Z in the next few weeks. I suggest using Summit for you JTR books. You want both the Datsun V-8 Conversion Manual as well as the Chevrolet TPI & TBI Engine Swapping One. I think most people will agree that the setback position is the preferred placement. This keeps the weight off the front wheels, a lower center of gravity, better cooling, and better hood clearance. Don’t forget about the speedometer. You will either need to get an electronic unit, or have the T56 tailshaft modified for your mechanical unit. Most of your questions will be answered in the JTR manuals or by searching the forums. There are plenty of discussions in regards to this swap. Good Luck!

Those of you that have the Tokico springs, are they progressive? I'm wondering if I got correct information from the person I spoke with at Tokico. MSA told me their Tokico springs are linear and I would think they would be the same as what comes in this kit. The only progressive springs they had are the Eibach springs.

Well I guess calling to find out the spring rates was a good idea...until I called I thought they were linear rate springs.

I just called Tokico and the springs are the same for both suspension kits. They said the front springs are 140 lbs progressive, while the rears are 165 lbs. linear.

I'm sure most of you have seen these auctions on ebay for Tokico Suspension Kits (they always seem to be there). Has anyone purchased one of these kits from this guy (jdmwerks13)? It seems like a pretty good deal ($359 for the standard and $519 with the illumina's). I'm thinking about getting one of them, I just can't decide which one yet.

I have the JTR datsun conversion manual as well as the TPI & TBI Swapping manual and yes I've considered doing an LT1 conversion. I've also considered a 305/T5 combo since you can find these combo's in 83-92 f-bodies. If I can find a good setup these are still possibilites.

I’ve been dismantling and cleaning up my 73 240Z and here’s how it looks now. I haven’t been able to decide on the specific engine and transmission combo I want to install, but I ‘m currently thinking old school carbureted 350 V8 with a World Class T5 5-speed manual. Although I like the weight and stock performance of the LS1 T56 combo, it’s a lot of work, money, and it’s a whole different look. A Z is a ‘sports car’, and to me ‘sports cars’ have to be manual; so it’s either a T5 or T56. The T5 seems to be lighter and cheaper; so I think it’s the way I will go. What do you guys think? If anyone has a lead on a good engine and/or transmission for my swap let me know. I'm also looking at getting the conversion kit from Stealth Conversions.

I fixed my tach this morning I was able to find an ignition wiring diagram at http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm. There are stock diagrams as well as diagrams for a Pertronix Ignition, and a ZX electronic ignition. I also used the diagram in the XR700 documentation I found at the crane website. One of the differences was that my electron ignition was wired to the ballast resistor instead of the coil. I changed this and the tach still didn’t work. Another thing I noticed was that the tach seemed to work while my engine was cranking but not after it started. According to the information I found and these diagrams, the difference is that while the engine is starting the ballast resistor is bypassed. After the engine starts the ballast resistor is used. I finally discovered that the person that installed this unit added a wire from the ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil. As soon as I removed this wire everything worked, including my tach. I am still using the old positive loop tach, and now it works great. I can only assume that the flow was going through the ballast resistor straight to the coil instead of flowing through the tach.

I have a 1973 240Z that I purchased a couple of months ago and it came with a Crane XR700 Electronic Ignition system installed in it. It seems to work pretty good, but the tachometer isn’t working. I’ve been able to find some posts of people that are using this and still having the tach work. It seems to be wired correctly, but I’m not sure. Can someone out there who has this system tell me how they wired it so that the tach works

I’m thinking of getting a rear skirt for my 1973 240Z, but I haven’t been able to find a good picture of one to see how it looks. I’m specifically looking at getting the classic rear skirt from Motorsport. The picture in the catalog isn’t very good. Is anyone using this skirt and has a picture that you can share? I would be interested in other rear skirts as well. I’m not interested in the combined rear bumper and skirt as I’m using a European chrome rear bumper.

I've ordered up a set of new 17x7 40mm offset wheels with 225/45ZR17 tires. The tires are the widest that will fit on a 7" wide wheel, and I had a hard time finding 17" wheels that I liked in widths greater than 7". I also didn't want to move up to 18" wheels, where you can more easily get 7.5" wide wheels. I'll see how they fit when the wheels and adapters are delivered, then I'll figure out what I need to do with my suspension. thanks for all the help. Here's a sample pic of the wheels I chose (Konig Theory):

I finally found a web page that has most of my questions answered. I found it by searching for '240Z spring lengths' from Yahoo. The web page says that it's a 'HybridZ FAQ', but I can't find a link to it from within http://www.hybridz.org. Here's the specific link: http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft/faqchassis.html'>http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft/faqchassis.html And here's the link to the root of this FAQ: http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft/ Is this part of http://www.hybridz.org, and if so where is the link?

I'm starting to think coilovers are the way to go. That way I can set my ride height and fit in wider tires.