Bartman

I was able to get the LT1 in the engine compartment without too many problems. Here's a couple of pic's: http://home.earthlink.net/~570z/images/LT1_install2.JPG http://home.earthlink.net/~570z/images/LT1_installed.JPG I haven't "clearanced" anything yet but everything is awfully close on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. I either need to grind the fin down around the starter and/or "clearance" the tunnel at that location. I'm very happy with how the engine sits low and back in the engine bay; it looks much better than the original engine did .

I got the Brake Tee I needed from the rear of my 240Z parts car, so I think I have everything I need to complete the plumbing. I also removed the calipers and painted them with brake paint. I do have a problem with the brake lines touching the inside of the tire when the steering wheel is turned all the way to either side. I need a better solution than the twist tie I have now:confused2 .

Thanks, I actually found their web site the other day and was looking at their adaptor kits. On closer inspection of my engine I already have the quick connectors:redface:, and all I need to get is the high pressure fuel line and hose clamps to connect up to my existing hard lines. I'm still hoping to test fit the engine and transmission this weekend and figure out what else I need to get it running:rockon:.

Alright, some good news:shock: . What fittings do I need to connect my existing hard lines to the LT1? I already have the hard lines routed up the firewall where they need to be.

I thought I was going to be able to get away with using my stock fuel lines to start, but after looking through search results it doesn't look like I'm going to be able to get away with this. Is it possible to use them on my LT1 or not? I wanted to just use them temporarily until I decide what I want to do with my fuel tank (use a fuel cell, LS1 tank, or something else). Although I can't find it now, I thought there were some people using the existing supply as supply and the existing vent line as a return. I'm tired of having my car apart and parts sitting everywhere, and I really want my engine to be installed and running ASAP;) .

The problem is that I generally only have the weekends to work on my car, and I'd lose at least a half day or more trying to find this part (including driving time). The brake plumbing is the last thing I need to work out before I can start trying to fit the engine in it's new home (I can't wait). As soon as I can get this little bugger, I'll install it so that it won't find a home somewhere else;). Does the link above point to the right part?

I'll do the JY hunt if I need to (or they're expensive); but I'd rather just buy one new. This seems like it would be such a simple little part. Would this work, it's only $13.41? http://www.appletree-online.com/Product.asp?iProductID=99181

We should do something about this problem to make it easier for newbies. I know what it's like, 'cause I was there not to long ago asking some of same questions. The search feature can work wonderfully if you input the right key words and wade through all the data, but it's not an optimal solution. What helped me was a FAQ that was once used here at HybridZ (or was it an idea that was never implemented). We should resurrect or complete implementation of the FAQ and keep it updated with the "Top Ten Newbie" questions and answers. Check out this link: http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft/

From another thread, Tim has a similar setup to what I will be using:

I need to plumb my new brakes. In addition to the front brake upgrade I have disks in the rear, an upgraded master cylinder, and a proportioning valve. Because everything has changed I need to figure out what I can still use and what I have to change. My car is a 73 so it had two valves on the brake lines (both of them were located in the engine bay of the car). One was a proportioning valve and I'm not sure about the other one (maybe just a switch for the brake light?). I will remove the proportioning one, but I'm not sure about the other one. If it's doesn't do any proportioning and it's what makes the brake lights work; I should probably keep it. I also need to figure out how to split the front brake line into two to go to each wheel. What should I use for this and where can I get it? Thanks, Bart

There goes the Toymeister Tim with another project. Can't wait to see what kind of beast you'll be creating with those:wink:.

Sent an email.I would definitely be intested in a vented version.

I bought everything and was planning on color sanding and buffing this last weekend. I decided to start on a small area that won't be visible after the LT-1 is in place, and it was a major pain in the a**. There just isn't a large enough flat area to work on. I thought I was sanding on a smooth area, but after a while I sanded through the paint to the metal in a very small area. I looked more closely and sure enough, the sanded through area was the top of a bump in the metal. It is just an engine compartment, I am happy with the way it looks now, and I'm not willing to screw up the whole paint job just to try and get it a little better. So I am officially marking this item off my list and moving on to other items. Thanks for all the help and advice, I'll use it when I'm ready to color sand and buff the exterior.

I saw a picture of your brake install in another thread, and it looks very similar to mine and I thought mine already had some type of protective coating. I guess they're not protected so I will take your advice and paint them as I wasn't planning on including rust in my final color scheme;) .

Well that's one of the things I want to make sure I'm doing correctly. I thought that the bleeder screws were supposed to be on the top. Am I mistaken?

I don't recall the shipping time, but I'm thinking a week or two. I ordered a bunch of stuff while my car was apart, and now that my engine bay is painted I'm installing everything. Hopefully I'll have it running within a couple of weeks.

I got most of my front suspension reinstalled, and I started installing the 'Typical 4x4 Z Vented Front Brake Package' fron Modern Motorsports with calipers I won on eBay. I must say the kit seems to be of high quality and includes everything I need. Here's a shot of my current progress: Does it look like I did everything correctly? The bleeder screw is on the top of the caliper, and this seemed to be the only way to install the included stainless braided brake line (the adapter is screwed directly into the back of the caliper and I bypassed the mounting tab on the strut). A short instruction sheet would have been nice, but it does seem to go together fairly easily.

Thanks for the very comprehensive and detailed response RacerX! I will follow your advice and let you know how it comes out. P.S. - The Meguiar's Compound Power Cleaner is the one recommended for first cut.

Curious if it really works or not, but the commercials claim it does a great job on wheels. http://www.flitz.com/

Here's what I was planning on doing this weekend: Wet sand with 1,000 grit paper lightly in one direction (not in circles so that sanding scratches will look different than polishing scratches). Frequently squeegee and inspect the surface. Once the area was completely dull with no shiny spots, wet sand with 2,000 grit. Buff with a wool pad and Meguiar's Compound Power Cleaner. Buff with a soft foam pad and Meguiar's Swirl Free Polish. I was only planning on doing this process on the inner fender wells and shock towers keeping away from the edges. I am still open to changing the process if the consensus is that this is plan is too aggressive.

To me this is one of several reason for going V8. One of the other things for me is the sound. Other engines can sound nice, but nothing sounds like a V8. I'll take the good old rumble of V8 anyday. Maybe it's just me, and the generation I grew up in, but I always loved muscle cars. Putting a V8 in a Z is a way to make a better muscle car (i.e. - better handling and better performance). I know when I first get my 240Z V8 to fire-up, it is will send shivers up and down my spine (it may also may make my neighbors call the police).

Welcome to HybridZ! There are plenty of people here that will have an opinion about what V8 is best. The real answer is, it depends on what you want to do with your car. Street, strip, autocross, etc. I think your just going to have to do some searching and wade through all the posts, and then make your own determination based on your needs. Good Luck!

This was a good learning experience, and I feel like I will be able to do a much better job when I'm ready to paint the exterior. Heck, the exterior seems like it will be much easier than working in the cramped little engine compartment. Of course I will have much higher standards for the exterior than this job. P.S. - with this post I just became a 'Senior Member':shock: