Mycarispurty

So now that it's warming up outside a little and I can stand to get out there, I decided to go ahead and try to mount my triple Webers and get them at least installed so I can bask in their glory, whether the car runs or not. I have to grind on the header flange and a little on the manifold for about 30 minutes with my Dremel so the two manifolds at least mount up. Well I finally got it to work so I install the washers and nuts (2 or 3 of the studs don't even get nuts because there isn't any header flange there to bite down against) and I go to mount my intake manifold, and now it won't even bolt up at all because the nuts now get in the way of it laying flat against the head. Plus one of the exhaust studs broke off while screwing the nut down, and it wasn't even tight, was still turning by hand. I'm about ready to sell these damn carbs (cost me a fortune in the first place) and maybe even just sell the whole motor and put in a SBC or SBF, or just sell the whole damn car if I could find someone to buy or trade it!

You're on a budget, yet thinking of putting Triple Webers on it? Those are pretty pricey there chief.

So I picked up this head from a somewhat local guy. He's down in Atlanta, a couple hours below me. He had it ported and shaved by Sunbelt and had it on his 240Z race car. He went back to his 50mm Mikuni port matched E31 so this one was up for sale. A few of them are his pics, most I took when I got it home. The intake was ported and is smoothed out all the way down to the valve guide, though the exhaust ports were left alone apparently. Got some new valve seals to use with it, as well as a variety of shims so I can make up the slack. All it needs is a cam kit and some cam bearings, then reassembled. It's going on my F54 flat top block.

So Alan, what would it take to get a set of flares like the ones you just posted?

Whew Thanks for the info

I've got an F54 flatty motor, I had it on my engine stand and was cleaning off the oil pan gasket surface and noticed the crank has P30 cast onto it near the very back of the crank by the flywheel. I know P30 blocks are early blocks for 240s and such, but should my 2.8 crank say P30 on it?

For what it's worth, I HIGHLY recommend the tool jasper mentioned. I got one from the Northern Tools (14mm), which unfortunately the size the Z needed was $10 more than all the others, even larger units. Anywho, I followed the directions on the package and after several run throughs, spark plug #1 now screws in just like all the other cylinders. A great way to spend $50 (even though I would have rather spent it on cheeseburgers and beer).

All you guys, PM me with pics/info. Wanting one that's running of course, not needing rebuilt.

Hmm, expensive in that set but found some on Ebay for $10....maybe I'll try that. Thanks for the heads up.

Well the #1 cylinder on my E31 is cross threaded I can't even get the plug installed, it wants to turn upwards a little and get stuck. So I was thinking of removing the head and going at it backwards since the threads deeper in are just fine, so that it goes in straight and straightens out the threads at the beginning of the hole? Anyone have any insight?

The E31 on my 240Z has a cross thread problem pretty bad in cyl #1, so I figured instead of paying to have it fixed and put back on, might as well just upgrade to an N42 for larger valves with good compression still and put it on. If you have a good clean N42 for a good price let me know. I may consider an E88 since it has larger valves too, but wanting to go with an N42 in case I want to go EFI later, it'll have the holes for the EFI intake. Anyways, I could trade parts or maybe some music gear if you play guitar. It'd be great if you lived in Atlanta or Nashville or something so I could drive there to pick it up, since I'm in Chattanooga.

So this is the car I got a few months ago that's supposed to have the motor rebuilt, a cam, LSD, etc. Dunno about all that as I haven't checked the rearend yet, or seen any paperwork on a rebuild....however these are my numbers. Keep in mind they're cold numbers, extremely cold....34 degrees cold, and that's warm for the past week or so. It's a P30 flattop 240Z motor with an E31 head. 1-150 2-170 3-160 4-150 5-160 6-150 I hope if I ever get this thing back together either with Webers or turbo, those numbers will even up some.

I saw a review on a cheap Craftsman set I think it was that a guy said the cheaper taps weren't very accurate. I of course don't want to cut out good threads or damage anything that in the end will make my head bolts or main bolts pull out of the block. However, I don't know if that review was towards cutting threads or just chasing existing ones.

I'm going to be having a block taken to the machine shop in a week or so to have it dipped and checked to see if the bore is still standard and then have the glaze broken with a quick hone job, and wanted to chase the threads when I got it back home. Im looking at some tap and die sets from Northern Tool, metric size of course, and wanted to see if this set would cover the size taps I need. Also to see if a cheap set is fine for chasing threads instead of buying a pricey Snap On or similar set. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_34565_34565 In case that link doesn't work (their page sucks sometimes), here's the info: In this quality tool steel coarse and fine set, you get one tap and one die in sizes M3 x 0.5 through M12 x 1.75, PLUS a 1/8in. pipe tap. You also get one T-handle and one long-handle adjustable tap wrench, die handle, screw pitch gauge, screwdriver and case. It's $30 and figured that might be worth picking up to use for this job and keep around for future use.

Found some local places that sell C16 VP fuel, and some that sell 110 at the pump. Which would you guys recommend for the E31/F54 combo to keep the timing at a reasonable figure w/o backing it off and killing all the hp I'd make from the compression boost?

Not to hijack, but after this guy gets one, if anyone else has one I'll take 2nd pick after him. I'm looking for a 75-76 myself.

Anyone got a good condition, running N42 head? Looking to build a high compression motor and the E31 on my 240Z will be a little too high, so looking to drop it down a little with the N42, and the benefit of the larger valves. If you've got one, hit me up with some pics and info on it please.

Man, I remember when I started this thread. I was just curious what kinda power people made and personal stories of about them being fun to drive...now all the big players in the Z community with degrees in rocket science engineering are in here talking about stuff that's way above my head lol

Yeah I saw those. Was doing lots of looking at those the other day. Also entertaining the idea of getting an old mid 50s-early 60s F100 that a Windsor style motor or 385 series motor wasn't in, so no factory mounts are available.

Just curious if anyone makes these or if it's strictly up to the person wanting to do the swap to have one fabbed up?

I've got some music gear I don't really play anymore I'd be willing to trade if someone on here has some go fast goodies and would like a new amp or guitar or something, or maybe if a family member wants some for Christmas, it'd save money from buying it. I'd be into stuff like an exhaust, coilovers, wheels/tires, interior kits (vinyl kits, carpet kits, aftermarket seats, fancy gauges for the dash, nice steering wheels), brake kits, anything like that. I have a Mesa Boogie Studio Preamp in fantastic shape that works perfectly, a very nice Warmoth custom guitar, a Peavey VTM120 (Peavey's answer to the Marshall JCM800), a couple overdrive stomp boxes, and probably another item or two I can't really think of. If anything sounds interesting let me know, I can get you pics and a full description.

Wait nevermind, I have studs that came with my Webers and Cannon intake I can take down to the Ace and get studs that fit.