Mycarispurty

Going to be mounting up my triple Webers in the next few days and might as well install my headers while I'm at it since the gasket is an intake/exhaust combo. Anyone know the info on the correct size stud?

I did some calculating the other day with online converters. If the guy up top said he got 187whp with a setup not too far off from what I will have, that converted to roughly 225hp crank hp. I also took a LT1 Trans Am, as I used to have one and would have something to compare it to. Their hp is 275 crank hp, which equaled out to roughly 263whp I think it was. I did a power to weight ratio, and the Trans Am had .0625 while the 240Z had .09. Even though the Trans Am might feel like it is faster (to me) because of all the torque and that nasty LT1 sounding like a beast (at least the one I had did), according to the math, the Z should be a little bit quicker. So I figure if I can hit near 187whp like that guy figures, and some of you do, I should have one hell of a quick car

No problem with high test, I'm used to it with my SC400. So you say with a stock bottom end and stock N42, it dynoed that much hp? That's not too shabby for an old car thats lightweight. Did you have any other mods or anything? Probably all I'd have is my headers and exhaust. And a cam more than likely, but not a very big one.

I'm looking for some personal stories on the feel and power of a flat top motor (f54) with one of the high compression E31, E88, N42 heads to help me decide what direction I'm going to go. I've never driven a Z with a higher compression motor like that and just looking to see what you guys can share. Also if anyone has dynoed their stock level motors with this combo, feel free to throw some numbers at me.

Going to be shipping one and my scale isn't exactly that accurate, was curious if anyone had weighed a head and could give me the number. It's got the cam, lifters, all that stuff in it, just not the valve cover.

Got some ?s I'd like to discuss with someone who works around home theater, specifically technical and install questions rather than product feature questions...lemme know.

I'd rather spend a few bucks on some rings and bearings just to be safe, plus the head was coming off anyways to make way for my E31.

Mack, I just took all the plugs out like I normally would for a compression test, then put a big ass 27mm socket on the crank bolt and spun it over with a breaker bar to get my readings. Muuuuuuch slower than if it was in the car and a starter hooked up, but gave me an idea of my inner condition, so it worked out.

Well the block has redeemed itself. I got the head off finally, in the dark mind you lol The bores have no scratches, no gouges, and still show plenty of crosshatching. So a new set of rings and bearings it is. Still going to get messy taking the block apart and having it dipped to clean it out, and still some $ to be spent having a machine shop check the crank to see if it's been cut before or if it's stock, and the bores so I can get the right rings. Then eventually I'll get it put back together and have essentially a fresh motor for me to play with on weekends.

So I got a F54 motor with a P79 head for free yesterday, assuming I pulled it. So I trek up there with an engine lift, tools, and pull this motor out. I get it home today and finally get a right size socket that'll fit the crankshaft bolt. The engine is out of the car and of course not at operating temperature, so it's not going to be the best, accurate number for compression, but have read it should only be 5-10 or so psi off of what the number would be should it be warmed up. Anyways, with nothing on the motor (no intake so no throttle plate to hold open) and all plugs out of the head, here are the numbers before, and after a few squirts of oil in each spark plug hole for round #2 (the number after the / is the 2nd round with oil) 1-65/95 2-65/70 3-80/90 4-105/105 5-90/100 6-88/100 I haven't taken the head off to see if they're dished pistons or the flat tops, but even so, the numbers are so far across the board, and raised with oil, the rings may as well just not even be in the motor. I guess I won't be using this motor and will probably just part it out.

I'm trying to do a compression test on my newly acquired ZX F54 motor and I don't have a socket big enough to go over it. I know it's metric, but just seeing what I had, a 1" is a bit too small, and the largest metric I have is like a 19, until I get to a 32mm I bought for an axle bolt on a DSM I had, and it's way too big. If anyone can give me the size I'd appreciate it so I can get a socket and finally test this damn motor to see what the compression is like. If it makes any difference, the motor has the 2 row pulley on it.

Do you really need an explination for why Brits do what Brits do? lol

So I found a page that could be invaluable to guys trying to figure out what size tire to get for a specific width rim. I know some guys want as wide a tire as possible on their wheels for maximum grip, but some guys like me hate bulgy sidewalls and prefer a flush looking tire, or even a little stretch. Then there's some guys who can't get enough stretch! This webpage has pictures submitted of various tire sizes mounted on various rim widths, giving you a great idea of how a tire you're looking at buying will look on a particular width of rim. For example, let's say you picked up some rare JDM 14x10" wheels and have some 185/60/14s laying around from when you had 6.5" wheels. Here is how that tire would look on those hot new JDM rims, courtesy of this website: Anyways, here is the link to the webpage, and they do take submissions in case you have a tire size they don't have listed. http://www.tyrestretch.com/index.php

Jaguar's downfall wasn't really their engines, the engines are great. It's the Lucas Electronics in the car that are crappy, that, and apparently subpar British rubber for hoses and things like that. Plus their V12s didn't really make all that much power

I didn't buy the wrong header. There is a person with 1 used that I'm picking a motor up from, and figured if it fit then I'd pick it up.

Yea that stripey brown thing looks like a cap to me too, as well as the blue one. The resistor appears to be that yellow thing. There are many resistors similar to that in guitar amps. But they aren't the areverage resistor you'll find in bins at Radio Shack for a nickel a piece. I'd suggest going to a Jaguar site and seeing if anyone on there rebuilds the gauges for those guys and get with him to see what he says. P.S. Don't know if anyone else has mentioned this, but you know you're going to probably need Jaguar sensors to run those gauges or build circuits to get them to work in the Z right? Probably WAY more of a pain than it's worth for fancy looking gauges, unless of course you have a relative that's an electrical engineer or something.

Good idea? Yay or nay. I think I recall in my years of being into Zs, a thread on Zcar I think a long while back how it was no big deal putting round ports on squares, and vice versa. However that's been years ago and my mind may be a little foggy and may be recalling it wrong. Anyone with experience care to expound on diamonds on squares? The used header is only $50, so might be worth it, but I don't know.

Said he had them rebuilt at the end of last year, so I'm guessing right at a year.

So I ordered me some rebuilt but never re-mounted triple Webers a couple weeks ago. Got them from a guy in Orlando over on Zcar.com. Said they had been rebuilt by the Orlando Z Club president and never re-mounted and used. So essentially, they're rebuilt Webers with a little tarnish on the metal from being older units. Got me a Canon manifold and all linkages and gaskets too. I need to clean up the filter housings and get that rust off the tops and then figure out a way to clean up the carbs themselves to get that tarnish off. Any ideas would be appreciated. Just don't know if a tooth brush and metal polish will have enough elbow grease to it to clean them up, and don't want to take them apart to clean them that way.

Anyone got a 2.8 liter bottom end in good shape in the South East? I'm in Chattanooga and looking for one to put in my 240Z with an E31 head on my current motor. I could get cash, or maybe have something interesting to trade. I want one in good running shape with low mileage preferably, don't want one that smokes or knocks or needs a rebuild. If you have one you've rebuilt and ran for a few thousand miles and lost interest in the car or whatever, or whatever the situation, let me know. I'm in Chattanooga, TN and wouldn't mind driving to Nashville, Knoxville, Atlanta, Birmingham, Athens, GA, etc. Just let me know what you've got, where you are, and some info on the motor.

Dry ice is fun to work with on this, done it on 2 cars. Gotta watch out when you're chipping away the brittle floor coating so big chunks dont fly up and hit you in the face lol

I dug out an old carpet kit I received with a 280Z I bought years ago (it's gone now). I now have a 240Z that has no interior. This is a molded piece that only does the front floor, I must have lost the rear piece if I ever even got one with it. Since it's just the front piece of carpet that was molded for a 280Z, will that work in my 240Z? I don't know if there's little minor differences Datsun made over the years but being that the cars are pretty much the exact same on the outside, I figured at least the floors would be the same on the inside, allowing me to use it. I see Too Intense Restoration sells the rear parts seperately, so I could in a way have a whole fresh carpet kit to install in my 240Z when I'm ready for $89.95.

Got a pic of the circuit board?

Can you PM me some links to pics of your car fhptom, or email them to me at Mycarispurty@aol.com Wanna see how the 16x8.5s fit and look.

I see some people say the 16" wheels are really 15" centers, which doesn't leave much room for brake upgrades. I was thinking of the 17" but they only make 17x8 in the Trucker series, even though their custom page says they can make umpteen billion variations, and that's what I asked about. Anyhow, at 17x8 that'd 38lbs/wheel and I don't want that much weight, so I'm thinking of 16x8 and 16x10 or maybe a little smaller. Do the 16" wheels have enough clearance for the Toyota brake upgrade? I don't plan on racing the car so I don't need fancy badass brakes like AZC offers or whatever, but wouldn't mind the look of bigger calipers and the Toyota brake caliper would be plenty for me.