SportZ2

Does the cable hookup to the existing linkage on the firewall? If not, what is needed to complete the connection? Thanks

Do I need to get the one with the return springs or the one without. The picture on the post shows no springs and the difference in cost is $20.00. Seems a bit pricy for springs

Can anyone tell me which throttle linkage is better, the MSA or JTR. I need one that will have enough play (cable length) for both the Scarab and JTR setup. I'm not really interested in buying two seperate setups and I sure don't want to fab my own like I did the first time. (Bike brake hardware never looked that good even though it was functional).

What happens when the car comes down? Do you have to forfeit your number? Do you have to remove the sticker from the car or is there going to be a second sticker for retired JSR'ers? Count me in if you'll have me. I will mention this in the Spring 2004 issue of SZM. It's scary to think that there are probably more Z's on stands then on the road. Can someone email me a hi res image of the logo (for printing purposes). Thanks in advance. As far as my 2 cents on the size of the sticker, I like the ones that go on the small side windows with the other smaller stickers.

I haven't heard from Fast Frog since he made the centerfold in Sport Z. Maybe the fame went to his head.

Hi John, your subscription runs through the Spring 2004 issue. For some reason your database information said your sub ended with the Winter 2003 issue. We've changed it to the correct issue. Art

John, I will check on it and get back to you.

Yes to all your questions.

We’re excited to announce--entering our fourth year of publication--that Sport Z Magazine is expanding by another eight pages. The Winter 2003 edition is now 64 full-color pages of all things Z. Highlights of the new issue include: -Interview with 240Z chief designer -NISMO R-Tune and S-Tune 350Z test drives (with online video) -Driving lesson by champion driver Peter Cunningham -Radical Z32s: a multimedia machine, a lowrider, and a supercar -Project 280Z update -One owner, eight Z31s -Turboing a 240Z, Part II -280ZX centerfold -Motorsports highlights (including 350Z championship) from 2003 For a sneak peak at the full table of contents from the upcoming issue, including a preview of the *wild* cover shot (posters are available), go to http://www.sportzmagazine.com.'>http://www.sportzmagazine.com. Enjoy! Art Singer Associate Publisher, Sport Z Magazine http://www.sportzmagazine.com

At some point as the magazine, advertising and subscription base grows, we'd like to have a section for each Z group out there, ie: hybrids, stock, all generations in every issue. It would be nice to have 3 or 4 project cars going at the same time. As far as the video, I had no problem loading it.

Hey Scott, got your message and we still want to get a story on this. I will have our editor get in touch with you. Art PS: the more I think about it, the more I think we should do a story on the Altima instead. Hard to resist silver. What do you think?

I've had two acl reconstructions (one on each knee) 1 open joint surgery and 4 scopes. Play basketball, ski and do just about anything I want, I guess it depends on the doctor. I was lucky enough to have the Mets and US Open doctor do my knees. Both acl's reconstructed 9 weeks apart. I was crazier back then. As far as the guys father who had his acl fixed and they opened the joint, talk about old school. With thechnology today they don't do that any more, infact they perfected the scope back in the late 80's. Today a scope for my knee is no worse than going to the dentist. I call it spring cleaning.

Why don't you drop by a tech seesion so we can all look at this thing. Don't forget we have a race to do. We'll have to put it off until next spring when the track opens again, but it will give us both time to get the bugs out. send me an email and I'll find time to meet up with you. Art

I would like to use the picture in the upcoming Winter issue of Sport Z as a Z Sightings. if it's ok with you email me your name , city, state, and year of car. Thanks Art

after I posted I realized that i needed to do that and did. Thanks

You can email me at my new address: artsinger@cableone.net Thanks

no problem, just playing around.

Searched for my scarab mounts and can't find them anywhere. So I decided to check on buying new ones. Went to Holley to get a phone number in my town where Hooker products are sold. Called the place, they did a search and there are no mounts to be found and if they were, they want $160.00+ for them. I've seen on this site where people have posted part numbers and prices and was wondering where they can be purchased. I did a search, but don't really want to sort through thousands of posts. I called Holley direct and they told me that the mounts are not on the discontinued list and should be available but show none in stock. They also told me that they have a tranny mount for the 350, 1 in stock in the entire country. Not worried about the tranny mount (I can make my own), I'm concerned about the engine mounts though. I know the part numbers, have seen them listed on the Hooker website, but I'm told they basically don't exsist. Can anyone here point me in the right direction. and Hooker doesn't seem to be in that direction. I also remember that the prices I saw in earlier post were half the price of what I was quoted today. If anyone has converted to the setback position and has the old scarab mounts and would like to sell them, drop me an email. Any help would be much apreciated.

Is the car up and running? Will you be bringing it to the tech session this Saturday? Art

Pete, I feel slighted, One of the only ones to support your drag racing venture and you don't remember me? I guess I'll just have to take it out in the article. I wonder how long my suffering will last. (5 seconds later) It's over, time to feed the kid.

I'm confused, I never bought a kit from msa, I was just wondering how he used full headers in the setback position without having major fit problems. The only pictures I've seen of the msa kit shows block huggers only. Sorry for any confusion. I only have the jtr and scarab hardware.

The MSA kit uses block huggers. (Guessing the headers were not in the kit) Any setback setup requires driveshaft shortening. For wiring, buy the cd manual from Courtesy Nissan. (cheaper than buying the paper FSM and you can print out the pages)

Hey guys, started doing my homework and brushing up on the JTR conversion (8+ years since my last one), since most of my prep work will be based on it even for the Scarab. Was comparing my two manuals (3rd printing, Sept 92 and 7th ed., 3rd printing, Feb 01). I noticed that nowhere in the manual does it discuss/compare full header to block huggers. It compares exhaust dia., mufflers, and cast iron exhaust manifolds to headers. JTR puts all it's weight (no pun intended) behind the position of the engine and cooling, telling me that this should be a test of position only. If anything, the only difference I should have in the setup, is that I should use a manual fuel pump on the scarab and an electric fuel pump on the JTR. This will really only effect the cost part of the test. The more I think about it, the more I believe that this is a test on handling, cooling, and rear wheel spin not performance. With the car being the same, the drivetrain being the same, and the driver being the same, these two conversions will finally have a true baseline to compare too. To the people that say this test will be biased toward the JTR if I don't use a full header will actually swing the bias toward the Scarab in terms of performance and that is not the intent of the test. In fact, I find it interesting that JTR says by moving the engine 4" back would be the same as moving the battery to the back and keeping the engine in the Scarab position making the only real difference in the steering of the car (parking as their main reason). But they don't suggest that you do it with their conversion, Why? They've had enough new additions to say it. I will continue to decide the true meaning of this test and let you know what I'm thinking along the way. If you think I'm totally off base with this let me know why, but in a short way. Bare with me as some of my posts will be very simplistic so that the beginner/novice can follow along. I understand that the experts out there will yawn a few times with some of my posts, but hang in there and hopefully the end result will make it all worth while. Started prepping for the removal of the L28 today, so I'm officially on the clock. I will be doing 95% of the prep work by myself, so it will seem a little slow at first. I'm looking forward to this even if it's more work than I need to do. Bare with me as some of my posts will be very simplistic so that the beginner/novice can follow along. I understand that the experts out there will yawn a few times (alot) with some of my posts, but hang in there and hopefully the end result will make it all worth while.

These last few posts are exactly why I want to do a basic conversion for a basic baseline test. I never really thought that there would be this much passion for just wanting to do a simple comparison I've gotten enough feedback already to point me in the right direction. A couple of people have contacted me about driving and I will be getting in touch with them after the national convention. I still need to talk to Mike Kelly (could you PM me your phone number so I don't have to search for it. thanks) I understand now that whatever I do, not everyone is going to be satisfied with the outcome and that's ok. But it might help the beginner in making the right choice that best suites their needs. Cost, time, experience, etc. And if nothing else, everyone will have something in print that they can throw at each other while arguing. Just make sure you have an extra copy put away somewhere safe and sound. Later guys, Art

From what I've seen from these posts, the major concerns are: 1) Using the proper headers for each conversion and keeping everything else the same. 2) Compare the costs of each setup. 3) Determine setup difficulty for each. If I'm missing something let me know. I want this to be as simple a conversion as possible. I'm not here to compare an LS1 to a carbed 350 or am I going to test the differences between a manual and auto tranny. This is strickly a baseline test to compare both conversions so that down the road when people are thinking of doing the conversion, they will have numbers to look at to help them decide which is best for them. I also think that these tests should include a value or grade for each catagory. The tests I can think of off hand are: 1) Cost 2) Time 3) Difficulty level 4) 1/4 mile time 5) autocross 6) road coarse. Are there others? As far as costs are concerned, I will have to figure out the normal cost as if I was starting from scratch, ie; engine, tranny, cables, mounts, etc. My true numbers will be incorrect since the engine cost me nothing, the tranny cost me nothing, I already have the mounts, cables, and everything else to make it work. The only price I can remember from my 95 conversion was the custom driveshaft ($300) but that number is probably outdated by now. We will also have to have some astriks along the way when it comes to cost since some people will buy the kits and others will fabricate their own. I want this to be a study on a basic conversion without getting caught up in the power side. I will dyno my car as well so people can see what a basic setup will do. I will also list all the work that has been done to the motor as well as work done to the engine bay. Any last thoughts before I begin?