SportZ2

I'm positive that they are the right springs for the rear. I can definitely tell when they are not in the perch because the metal to metal noise is very loud. The seal went out on the rear strut, so Tokico sent me a replacement. I will put that in and see if the springs do any better. One thing I can say, I never heard sounds from the rear with stock springs installed. There is no load on the spring when I installed it. The spring sits loose. All I have to do is lift the car an inch off the ground and the spring is loose. There is enough room for me to turn it 360 degrees.

Does anyone here run Tokico lowering springs and have the clunking sound in the rear every time you go over a bump (either medium or big)? The rear springs are under load only when the wheels are on the ground. If I hit a bump, the spring gets loose in the perch. This does not happen in the front, the springs are tight even with the car is off the ground. If I jack the rear end up to change a tire and I'm by myself, there is no way I can lower the jack and hold the spring in place to make sure it seats properly unless the jack is right next to me. I called Tokico and they said this is normal. So if this is normal, does Eibach's springs do the same thing because I'm thinking of switching to them. Thanks in advance.

Warren, coming from anybody else I would have said sorry, but from you all I can say is butt out. lol On a serious note we are working on fixing the bandwidth problem. The site has never encountered so many people downloading one file before.

It's was Fred Sangalang.

I'll be there for the first time this year as a spectator. Looking forward to seeing some 9 second Z's for the first time. The best I've ever seen a Z run in person was a 10.25. I will also be looking for potential Hybrids for a feature article. Thinking of making it a multi-car story. I 'm sure I'll have a lot to choose from.

looks a little like a Opel GT on juice

Joel might be talking about Z Car Magazine (ZCCD). I went through my emails where I have talked to Joel and I didn't see any problems with his requests or questions about SZM. Althought not knowly, I can sometimes piss people off. But I really try not to.

Bob H, email me at arts@nissansportmag.com and give me all your info: full name, address, and phone number that you can be reached at. Also give me specifics on how you ordered ie: internet, mail, phone, etc. John C, my bad, I know I should have contacted you sooner, but with the embargo only being lifted on friday night these guys have been keeping me very busy and the time just flew by. I owe you something the next time I'm in CA. Not sure what it is, but i'll think of something. 2003z, the switchover is automatic. All SZM subscribers will be getting a postcard in the mail explaining the switch. Gabe, we will continue to support SEZ and one of these times I'm actually going to show up even without a car. Don't look at this as a sad day, we have a lot of new things planned for the new mag and I think they will make it even better.

A 5hp compressor is the lowest you can go with that setup and even then it's still weak. I T-d two 5hp compressors together amd that helped. Also do not fill the tank with media more then halfway. The finer or more consistant media works best. If using any kind of sand, it will sometimes clog up at the lower valve making it a pain to clear. I found that having a 25 gallon trash can and a big kitchen sifter helped to cut down on the clogging. Copper Slag works excellent and has no dust in it. The problem with CS is, it's black and if you don't plan to recapture the media you will have black stuff all over the place. My neighbor was not very happy with me since a lot of it blew over into his yard.

I have the spindle puller from Darrel. I have used it twice and it took about twenty minutes with no sweat involved. They came out easy. If you want to contact him his email address is: DLH2460@aol.com. He will get back to you. If you belong to a local Z club you should get it to buy the tool as a loaner to club members. That way the cost is deferred to all the members and it actually gets used more then a couple of times.

Copper Slag works great. But if you don't plan to recapture it you will have a heck of a mess since it is black. Great thing about it is there is no dust/dirt in it at all. About $5.00 a bag.

desert dog, do you have a decent center console?

Okay dr_hunt, I'll bite. When can I pick up the motor? Do I need to bring a hoist?

Z-Gad, if you haven't recieved the latest issue by now, PM me your full name and mailing address and we'll send you another copy.

Vinh, I'm the guy you need to talk to. Not sure who John is since there is no one that I know of that works for the magazine with that name. First and foremost, one of the things we require for a Z car to make it as a feature in the magazine is for the owner to at least have a subscription to the magazine. Your car is a perfect canidate for our pages since we are always looking for modifed 280ZX's. JeffP's is nice but it's always good to have others. Contact me direct (PM me) or go to our website at ww.sportzmagazine.com. Hey EZ-E, I guess Rick Marcus's 76 280Z V8, David Greimann's 79 280ZX V8, Bruce Bladon's Scarab V8, Rick Johnson's 73 240Z V8, Jeff Priddy's 450hp 280ZX, Mike Debusk's 500hp Z31, Sean Wagner's 744hp Z32, Joel Michalski's V8 Z31, Brian Schwatken's LS1 Z32, just to name a few that have graced our pages don't count? I'll check some of the other magazines from the past couple of years to see if combined they match up to this. Don't be discouraged Vinh, contact me and we'll talk. Art Singer Sport Z Magazine

Hey Mike, don't forget to add elitist when you call me a purist. If there is an "ist" at the end of it, I'm it.

An update to the specific clunk I was asking about. I found out what it was. The front diff mount was no good. The rubber was torn away from it's original spot and only holding on by a little bit. I found this out by having a friend sit in the car and shift the tranny from reverse to drive to second to first and back. I could see the mount move a good inch downward on all down shifts and slam into the front diff cross member creating the loud clunk. The strap cushioned the upshifts. I fixed it by putting in the solid diff mount from MSA. Fixed the downshift clunk instantly. As far as more road noise, It really isn't that bad and I can only here it more when the windows are rolled up. There still is some clunks in the rear but they are miner in comparison to what I was experiencing with the stock mount. I figure new u-joints will help with those. I was able to get the car out on the track and had no problem with hard shifting in the turns either up or down. Just thought you might want to know a certain fix to a specific clunk.

I know this may sound way to simplistic but could it be bad gas. Everything you have noted as problems were exactly what I had happen the other day (rough idle, surges at higher rpms, etc). Realized it was bad gas because the car ran fine before I filled the tank and then ran like crap about 20 miles later. I drained the tank and put in some different gas and the car runs fine again. What a waste of $40.00.

No, it's perfectly fine unless going into reverse or downshifting from D to 2 to 1. I can upshift at 5 or 6k with no problems.

But downshifting does not change the direction of the driveshaft. The tranny is brand new (recently rebuilt) so I don't think thats the problem. If it was a worn out universial joint wouldn't the slop go both ways?

I have searched to try and find an answer to a specific clunk in the rearend and only found broad based answers. I'm hoping if I describe in detail when the clunk occurs someone might be able to help me pinpoint the problem area. here it goes. I have a clunk whenever I put the car in reverse from Park at a stand still with the brake on (Auto tranny). N, D, 2,1 are all ok. I have no clunk when ever I manually shift from 1 to 2 to D no matter how hard I get on it. The clunk does occur though if I downshift from D to 2 to 1 and it is major. I'm guessing due to the fact that the car is moving and not standing still like when I go into reverse where the clunk is not near as loud. I have replaced the m-bar busihings, but nothing else. Seems like everything seems to be in place. I have the V8 in the car now and never remember there being a clunk when I had the L6 turbo in it. I hope this is enough of a description for someone that might have had the same exact problem and knows exactly what to fix. If not, I'll just start replacing things one at a time. Any help would be appreciated.

Dave forgot to mention that there will be some expert commentary from John Coffey, Ross Corrigan and Ken Jones on our runner up car that was oh so close to becoming our SZM project car. it will bring a tear to your eye.

I'm thinking that I will go to a mechanical secondary carb anyways. I'm still getting a hesitation when I hit the pedal after the car is warmed up. It's not the diaphram spring because I have tried just about all of them. My guess is maybe I need to rejet to get more fuel or I'm getting a slight vapor lock. I did put on the heat shield/spacer and will see if that makes a difference. The carb came with .060 all around and on another post someone mentioned that they might be too small for 5000 ft. The local dyno shop owes me some pulls so that should be a big help in getting this thing tuned.

Does anyone have a holley carb on their V8 conversion that live at 5000ft (give or take a 1000ft)? If so how are you jetting your carbs. I have a 4011 (650 cfm) and the jets that came with it are .060 for both primary and secondary. I know that I should go down one number for every 2000ft and that two numbers down is good for 5000ft. Should I keep the jetting consistant or can I run smaller jets in the front and bigger jets in the rear? I'm hoping to get some ideas of a good starting point and knowing what people are already running would help. Also, what if any advantages or disadvantages have you found by jetting this way.

Are you wanting to see home garages or shop garages?