Sketch_hs

Just find out the last registered owner, have them sign a lost title document. Or ... find out the name, make a fake bill of sale and do a no-title transfer. Works every time! Not that i've ever done anything like that

Just saw this on local craigslist: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1479827917.html Someone should pick this up!

Any pics showcasing your ride height?

Would you say the handling was improved or changed after cutting a coil or did you drive it with stock tokico coil length at all?

Spare was factory and no longer good... cracked and aged. I have a can of fix-a-flat in the car for local driving. If I take it on a long drive i'll probably get a new tire for the spare and put it in. Having AAA gold membership helps though. In my years of driving i've never had a tire failure I couldn't predict

pics!

actually on my 75 280z, removing all the bumpers, brackets and related hardware saved over 120lbs Removing the spare, jack, wheel chocks and tools brought the total to nearly 160lbs! This was all on a bathroom scale, might be off a bit but it's certainly more than just 80lbs. I also noticed a nice improvement in all areas of performance

Any quantifiable results? How was the before/after in terms of harshness? What do you mean by "civic" type handling? Bouncy like a ricer with cut stock springs or tight and responsive like a properly modded one be specific... I dont want to regret this if I do it

how much of an increase in ride harshness/bounce did you experience? Any benefits or issues with handling before/after? Dropping the tank; Drain it completely Remove hoses (front) Unplug level sensor Remove passenger rear wheel Remove passenger rear wheel well removable section Loosen hose clamp for filler tube place jack or support under tank remove straps carefully lower the tank slightly and just move it away far enough to get to the bumper shock. The rear vent hoses don't need to be removed Remove the bumper shock... Three bolts on the bottom, three nuts on the top, you'll need to move the tail light cover out of the way inside the car. Take the bumper shock out completely - I was able to pull it through the hole pretty easily but it's a bit tricky to work it out I guess. Plug the holes left by the studs going into the cabin Put everything back together! I used a new hose clamp on the filler neck cause mine was a bit rusty - Getting that filler neck tube on was a bit tricky. So get it to slip mostly on the filler neck and then use your jack or buddy to hold the tank in the right spot. Loosely secure the tank with the straps, make sure the filler neck is proper and all the hoses are in the right place... I had to pull on the rear vent hoses from inside the car to get it lined up right. From there, just put it back together.... pretty easy job took me about 30 min

what no pics?

Probably... still thinking about it. Dropped the gas tank to remove that stupid bumper support. Wasn't really that bad. Drained the remaining gas in the tank first.... Had about 2.5 gallons left in it. Funny cause it was already sputtering and driving crappy like that. The pick up for the external pump is pretty high. Tank was very easy to drop, two straps and the filler neck, along with some small hoses and the level sensor. The tank is amazingly 100% rust free inside, still has the coating 100% intact! amazing. No hidden rust behind the tank or anywhere. happy about that! In fact I had the carpet out and the floor boards are also totally rust free! Here is a picture of the bumper support gone. You'll also notice the areas of rust removal and primer

lots of miata guys swap to the s4 rx7 lsd

lol! I had the seat out of my z yesterday and found a taco bell sauce packet from at least 15 years ago... thought about using it

I alternate between the 280z and my mkiv supra

The shipper is responsible for 100% of repair costs no doubt Might be best to get a new hatch and paint to match... along with the other repairs. Sucks

Yeah I'll eventually change rims for something that will let me run a smaller sidewall... These rims sure are light though! The car is already sitting on tokico springs ... It could be a little lower but it's way better than stock. Probably leave it as is for now.

Cleaned up the interior some more and lost the seat covers.... passenger seat only had one rip, drivers is pretty bad. Covered it with some black gaffers tape for now. Here she is in the garage, I kinda wish it was a little lower but at the same time I think it looks about "right". You will also notice I sanded down all the surface rust on the body and hit it with some primer - just to stop the rust for now. I'll be dropping the tank today to remove that stupid bumper support piece. I nearly ran outta gas on the way home last night to make it a bit easier (lol)

free > cheap + shipping + waiting besides, it was fun and rewarding

ez fix!

The entire subframe and engine mounts? If it's really rusted and has some rot, replace it. If it's just surface rust, brush it off and seal the metal with some good paint or por15

It's normal for there to still be some transmission of engine torque (very minor) You should be able to easily stop it just with your hands, if it's any more you might have a problem. Even new cars do this.

If it goes away with the clutch in it may just be a bad throw out bearing ....

Probably better off just ordering new bushings What I used basically was a poly tube cut to fit between the "ears" The tube fit perfectly inside the shifter end (just a tiny bit of play so it can easily move) Proper sized washers on each end of the tube 10mm bolt holding it all in place, used a lock washer and blue loctite to make sure it never comes loose on it's own. I hope that makes sense

Also, I did get the tach working. There is resistor on the tach signal wire. It's connections were simply loose. I also replaced all the dash bulbs so I can now see how fast i'm going at night!

Almost forgot! I made a custom short shifter using a stock FC shift knob. Yes I know it's probably not period correct blah blah, but I had it laying around and the shifter was way too tall and full of slop. Just ignore the fictitious shift pattern (lol) So I cut the stock shifter and made my own shifter bushings to tighten it up. Now the shifts feel great and the shifter action is tight with no looseness or rattling. The "custom" bushing was made from a poly bushing from something I had laying around.