dr_hunt

Over the edge 357 ci, powerglide, 9 inch ford, 9 inch slicks, traction limited, 10.50's at 136mph smoking the slicks off the line past the 60 ft mark while pedaling it. I'm going to play with spring rates in the coil overs as well as tire pressure, but it looks like a backhalf job is upcoming so I can stuff some 17x33's under it. I think if it hooks up, it'll be in the 9's at 5300 ft elevation and lower 9's elsewhere.

I use a 14 inch chop saw with the hose wrapped tightly with about 5 or 6 wraps of electrical tape. Leaves rubber inside the hose which has to be wiped out and then blown with air, but it works great. Lube all parts with some kind of lube before installing fittings.

I'm not sure who you talked to but a 283 is a small journal crank just like most 327's, there is only 2 rod journal sizes, small journal and large journal in the sbc. The small journal rods are readily available off the shelf just like a 327. Pistons are available for the 302 in forged high compression only as an off the shelf item since that is what the factory version was as well. The 327 is available with a flat top since that is what truck engines had in them and some of the low HP rated 327's. Forged pistons are $$$ anyway, the difference being if you go with TRW or JE's or similar. Again, it depends on how radical the engine is going to be. It's been debated and tossed around here on this forum alot. If the engine is mild, cubes and stroke will get you more HP and TQ. If the engine is radical, cubes and stroke may generate more than you can plant to the ground. So, I think that you are trying to achieve a high output small cube engine so as not to overpower the tires on the low end and pull more on the top and in higher gears. Either the 302 and 327 should accomplish that. There is something magical about the 3.25 inch stroke of the 327, I guess that is why nascar is still using it but with 4.125 bores, better breathing and 9500 rpm. I'd love to hear 9500rpm in a z.

The AFR's were and are a truly a work of art, perfectly finished in every detail. My only problem was getting all the right parts. They make awesome power and torque, the full potential of which I do not know right now. I picked up 6 tenths of a second in the quarter going from world products to AFR's, now that is some serious HP and TQ gain. If I had to do it all over again I'd go with the AFR 227's.

I've welded about a dozen or so gas and diesel tanks including modifying my stock Monte SS gas tank to accept -10AN pickup and return lines so I could run Alcohol in without installing a fuel cell. Run exhaust from your car through it, it works better since then you don't have water in your tank afterwards. You take the filler cap off, connect the hose, and make sure the vent is working properly, run exhaust through it for a minute or two and then check the LEL. To check LEL, take a lighter and strike it next to the vent where the exhaust is coming out, it won't light, but if it did it would be a flare with no chance of explosion. Weld as usual. If you leave alot of water in the tank there is a chance that it will quench the weld and make it brittle and also it will make for a porous weld due to steam trying to escape while welding once the tank heats up. After welding pressure test with air and spray soap and water to check for leaks.

I bought a set of sportsman 2 cast irons back in '94 through PAW and they were drop shipped from World Products. I ordered the 72 cc angle plug 200 cc runner heads. They shipped me 3 heads. A set of the correct part number 72 cc angle plugs and a straight plug head. I sent the straight plug head back and a week later got a set of straight plug heads delivered by UPS. I called PAW and they said that my shipment was correct, called world, they said they shipped what they received as an order from PAW. OK, well, Duh, uh, I got a free set of heads cause they are stupid. So, 11 years ago they were about the same as they seem to be now. Of course AFR isn't much better. I ordered a set of 1060's and all the stuff from CNC motorsports on EBAY and everything was drop shipped from AFR. Took 3 months to get them, I ordered intake, head and exhaust gaskets and the offset stud girdles with nuts as usual. First shipment was the heads, no gaskets, no girdles or studs. Called CNC, called AFR, AFR would not talk to me since I bought them through CNC. Next shipment was intake gaskets and head gaskets, no exhaust gaskets and no stud girdles or nuts. Called CNC, next shipment was exhaust gaskets and two sets (4 total) of stud girdles and no nuts. Called CNC, wanted to ship one of the sets of stud girdles back and I wanted the nuts. Was told that 2 are required for each side on a SBC according to AFR. Next shipment was the nuts. So, I'm really tired of calling and I kept the offset stud girdles for my next motor project. And I got it all for $1575.00

If you use a 283 crank, cast or steel, you can put it in a 327 block, no problem. Clevite makes a special set of main bearings to put a small journal crank into a 350 block, or at least they used to, I've been trying to find them. The 307 is basically a 327 crank, just the bore was smaller to make 307 cubes. I went with a 350 instead of a 406, now I kind of wish I'd gone with the 302. Maybe I'll buy gears and work on getting this thing of my boys to hook up.

I'm a relatively new member, but I just saw this post. After 9/11 things got worse not better. David Hudak was wrongfully arrested for illegal firearms, explosives and conducting terrorist training down here in roswell NM. 2 years in jail/prison, prison when the jails were full. He was exhonerated, the govt. screwed up, He lost everything he ever had and/or ever will have. He went back to Canada and now he can't even get a travel visa to come back to the states. He owns property here and his guns and explosives are being held by Coonie's explosives Inc. in Hobbs, NM. The govt. refuses to release them even to this day when David Hudak has been cleared of any wrong doing. If you think Waco and Ruby Ridge were accidents, then you have to believe that 50 to 200 Federal agents were just like the Nazi's and "following orders". I'm sorry folks, the law enforcement is not here to "serve and protect" they are here to "screw and shaft". I know too many that are soo crooked that they will have to be screwed into the ground when they die. Hang in there big guy, there are people who don't believe all the govt's crap. David

Good case in point is England. My family on my mothers side is from there and they have handguns outlawed and they have alarming rate of stabbings per year that has surpassed the total handgun assaults per year preban. They haven't thought of outlawing knives yet, but I'm sure it's just around the corner. It is the mentality of this dingbat and others like her who believe that we can save ourselves from ourselves through new laws. But the fact remains we have laws on the books now that isn't deterring them in any way, courts are jampacked, so what makes them think that this is any different. A criminal has got to know that he will do 5-10 years for armed robbery, so who cares whether it is a knife, gun, bat or toy gun, same difference! Oh, forgot the firearms 1 year enhancement, well, that'll mean he does another 6 months with "good time". Oh, and three strikes, your out, only means 25 years, same as "life". Here in NM there was an article in our statewide paper that over 25 percent of DUI's in Bernalillo County (Our most populated area) are dismissed without prosecution due to the high load on the courts. So, new laws for higher degree felonies will take front seat and more people charged with DUI's and lessor crimes will hit the street again to kill or mame somebody else again, prompting "new" and "tougher" laws to add to the merrygoround of BS so that lawyers get richer, we get poorer and nobody is safer. My plan for Iraq, surround it, give them 30 days to get out, level the place, let them move back, charge them Billions for saving their butt, take it in oil, and take no prisoners. My plan for criminals, put a bounty on them, if you see one, shoot his happy butt till you run out of ammo, don't need wounded, collect some money, buy z parts, and dump them all in the ocean serving as shark bait, no jail, no courts, no lawyers, no psychiatrists, no BS. Out here in the wild country I live in, if your known to be a good shot, people don't __ck with you. A drive by would never happen cause their 9 may make some potholes in my stucco but my 30-378 weatherby mag will make a hole end to end in their vehicle after passing through their _ss in the process even when they are 500 yards down the street laughing their punk _ss off thinking how "bad" they are. If that don't work then I'll break out the 50BMG and see if they can make it to the highway. We breed street urchins here just like they do elsewhere, the problem is that they don't know anything different than what their parents knew and what they were born into, poverty and little hope of ever really knowing what "life" is. It isn't your homies, it isn't rappin', it isn't busting a cap in somebody's _ss, It isn't turf, It isn't getting high, It isn't scoring. It is working, making honest money, being lawfull, being honest and trustworthy, taking pride in yourself and taking responsibility for your actions, having a family, friends, and experiencing food, travel, education, hobbies. It is the pursuit of "real life" that the punk _sses lack, no real life and no ambition. A black acquaintance of mine got busted for shooting some other worthless piece of _hit and did 3 years. He said that as a "black" man, he just can't get up and move to another town cause his own kind will think he's movin' in on their "turf". Where as white guys can go anywhere and fit in. So I say to him, is that my fault or yours? He says it's my fault cause we whites oppress his kind, the blacks! So, I gave him a job a couple of years ago when he got out of the slammer and a place to live, he married a white gal from a prominent ranching family, caused a _ell of a stink. He showed up the first day, moved in, beat the crap out of his new "old lady", she left, called Lt. Fuzz and I never saw him again for 3 years cause he violated parole by beating up his "old lady". "old lady" is his words, not mine. He shows up 3 years later wanting his "stuff". I guess I don't follow his thinking that it's my fault, I gave him a chance, he screwed it up and left, I don't owe him anything or any "stuff", besides, I don't consider furniture from walmart as "stuff". Sad, in the old days, we'd just throw some blows, then go drink beer together and that was it, now that's a felony as well, so the punks think they might as well go for the gusto, and the problem is that we have to pay for it all. Sorry for the long rant

I have owned a 302 and a 327 both in the same car, the 302 was softer on the bottom than the 327, and both pull hard from 3k up, neither will really quit pulling if you keep your foot stuffed in the carb. My boys z has an overkill 357 in it now and it rev's so fast it's hard to believe, but thats cause the tires are spinning. Stock parts going 7500 rpm. Yes, that is true, pretty reliable, yes, that is true also, totally reliable, no, that is not true, depends on alot of things. I think anybody on this forum will agree that first the stock rod bolts should be changed in favor of SPS, B&B, or ARP bolts, beams cleaned up of casting flash and magnafluxed is the best way to prep, and hypers or forged pistons for anything over 6K, but nothing is stronger than forged and for a few dollars more, it may be cheap insurance like the bolts IMHO. Stock steel cranks are found both in small journal and large journal. You can find a steel 307/327 large journal crank in some P/U truck engines. 283 small journal cranks steel cranks can be found for $50. The 283 "HB" block can be bored safely to 4 inches, hard to find block, I only have one left, they are small journal and you can put a 327 crank in that 283 block only. All others have to be excessively clearanced for 327 counterweights and you usually hit water, not all the time but "usually". Eagle makes a 3 inch and 3.25 inch stroke cranks for $500 in large journal and you can use 350 four bolt block and make you a homemade "DZ" replica or 327. You'll find that the 327 and 302 make good power with stock type heads, like the camels and aftermarket Dart and World castings. Obviously they will make even more power with heads like twisted wedge, Edelbrock, brodix and the venerable AFR HP king of the hill. If you oversize the heads, it really takes away low end and midrange and focuses power in the top end in the 302. I sold my World products pro ported 72 cc/ 200 cc intakes heads with Manley raceflow +.100 2.02/1.6 valves, isky 9365 roller springs, Comp +.050 steel 10 degree retainers, Harland sharp 1.6 roller rockers, screw in studs, guide plates, stud girdles, custom roller cam 260 duration, .630 lift and a NIB set of Comp .080 roller cam pushrods for $840 complete last Friday, so if you watch you can get a good deal! I had them listed here on hybrid z and Ebay but had no interest.

Really, you can't run an intercooler with a wet blower. I guess all the boating crowd never got the message and my buddy Gabe has been playing with fire for the last 8 years with his intercooled 8-71 blown 454 jet boat. I don't think I buy into that assertion, seen too many that are wet and intercooled on boats. I think what your getting at is that intercoolers for blowers are mostly wet and require a large volume of cool water, which is readily availabe only to the boating crowd. I have seen several water to air coolers on some turbocharged mustangs at the strip, but that is a complete pain in the %$&*.

That's an impressive set up there. I am amazed at what 6 psi will do in a big block chevy, I think you will too. Dry, well, I don't think that'll work very well and if it doesn't you'll be buying another blower. Probably a good idea to inject at the intake of the blower and make use of the latent heat of vaporization. When rebuilding the blower for wet, you take out clearance, conversly, if you run it dry then you should add clearance back to stock diesel spec's. There is clearance between the ends of the rotors and case ends, rotor to rotor and rotor to case sides, that is what you deal with, all easily measured with a standard feeler gauge. Rotor to case is based on radius as is rotor to rotor, and the ends will both close up as the blower heats up, actually all of it will tighten up. The case expands as it heats so that doesn't have as much of an effect on things as does the rotor to rotor and end play between the rotors and end plates. I'm guessing that if you have a problem with clearance running dry, it'll be with the end plates and when that clearance runs out it locks up the blower big time.

I still use 6-71 and 4-71 detroits on several water pumps, parts are readily available and cheap, a 6-71 kit is about $1000 which includes pistons, bearings, gaskets, liners, pins, rings, injectors etc. Blowers never go out on these, at least I've never had one go out cause they run with circulated engine oil, which is not the case in automotive applications. I have a 8v-92 in an excavator and an 6v53 in my 25 ton crane as well. I built a 6-71 blower in college machine class and it is very expensive to get the drive and rear plates. I made my own rear plate out of a stock rear plat that was machined for steel rings to support the bearings. Double pinned the rotors, tightened the clearances on the ends of the rotors and that was about it. It was interesting and alot of fun. The designation 4-71 means 4 cylinder and 71 cubic inches per cylinder. It is the same for all of the 71,53 and 92 series engines. The 8v92TT "silver 92" pumps out 440HP and around 1400 lb-ft tq, wow, twin turbo's and blown. My dad had a '77 Peterbilt with a 12v71 that had twin turbo's and twin blowers and made 600HP. It was bad to the bone, but I was too young to drive it and it got wrecked before I got my license. The kit is definately the way to go and way cheaper. Post some pic's Okiez.

I'll bet the look on his face when he read that question was "Priceless". An eloquent writer, you may not be, but, there are some instances when words alone do not accurately describe things quite like: "you (edited) theiving smuck, your going down (edited). sell your own piece of (edited) car, not someone elses". And just why would somebody cancel $1,000,000 bids?..... Honestly,I would have loved to get in on that bidding war. Wonder what he's going to sell next, I added him to my favorite seller's list. Next time somebody pisses me off, I'll call you for advice on what to say!

I like the Question number 2 the most

Hey guys, your doing this all wrong. 1,000,000 bids only screw up the game. Bid it by the thousands, like 4,000, 4,500 etc, etc. Bid early, bid often, and most importantly bid it all in the last seconds of the auction so he can't cancel them!!! Work it baby!! I don't get as worked up as you guys, but, this guy is obviously scamming john q ebay public. I'd just give him a taste of the 6% of alot of money that he'll have to pay one way or the other, after all they have his account and credit card info!!!!!! There is always a better way to break it off in his butt, but this could be bloody if done right. Some lessons are hard learned, even after all the complaints from you guys. JUST DO IT!

Don't you just love that turbo power! Thanks

Scottie, it was for you, sorry, it was a little confusing. I've been looking at EFI and Accel's new gen 7 will support Alcohol inj and they have low impedence injectors up to 160Lb/hr, so on Alky it'll support 1280HP NA and probably close to 1000HP Forced. Alcohol has such a large latent heat of vaporization that it will cool the intake charge dramatically. On my NA cars, the intake will get condensation on it, it is that cool.

since August '04

Tell me what your setup is, I'm looking to do the same thing. David

Wow, that's amazing. In looking at the video, you can see vehicles moving by ground zero, so I don't think they were blowing a munitions supply as it seems that they would have cleared the area of civilians, looks as though it was a big 500 pounder or laser guided bomb hitting a target. Amazing the soldiers are taking pictures with a disposable camera. A buddy of mine just came back from Iraq, we went to the bar, shot some pool and had a beer. I'm glad he came back, just wish he'd of made it back just like he left. He's changed. His unit was one that we all read about, a bunch of marines hit in a mortar attack at their camp mess hall. He lost a couple of his buddies and it's undoubtedly changed him forever. He was a machinist in the army national guard over there making parts for tanks, humvee's, etc. I guess, fitting enough, everyone has to pull guard duty in the "nests" and man the machine guns and stuff, whether your guard, machinist or whatever. Freedom isn't free and I hope we all don't forget that, I know he hasn't. I'm proud to be an american, an I'm proud he volunteered to defend our country. Whether we were right or wrong, doesn't matter to many who came back horizontal. I'm glad he's back and I'm proud of all our soldiers. I salute you and thank you for your service that allows me and my boy the freedom to play with the z.

If you were going to drag race it constantly or road race it, I'd say yeah, change the crank, but for a street driven monster hero like you'd have with that in your z, it'll probably be ok IMHO. I think the performer has to go though, the cam, heads, and cubic inch size are all calling for something that flows a little more like a victor Jr series, or team g or some other open plenum race type manifold. I think some of the rest of the guys will chime in on that one either with me or with a better idea. Several of them have some really in depth thoughts on parts relativity to one another and to overall use, TQ and HP. Pretty interesting stuff, kind of gives you an overall description of the engine's use, but I can't recall exactly who posted that info. It kind of matches all the parts and the engine falls into categories, like street, street/strip, race, etc. Somebody ought to compile an archive or book that holds the best of the best information. You'd be amazed what all these guys know and readily share or have shared in the past, I know I'm amazed and pleased.

The land of entrenchment, where men are men, women are few and sheep are nervous, no, wait, that's Wyoming, Crap, I live in the enchanted New Mexico, the southwest with all the movie stars from California are moving to. Actually Socorro, where I live is about 75 miles south of Alb. Figured out that the valve body is missing a check valve that is preventing the trans brake from working, have to send it back to the fine folks and they will send me a new one. Hopefully that doesn't take too long. Sending the C&S 800 aerosol billet back to C&S to have it modified for drag spec with jet extensions and calibrated specifically for that engine. Till then I'll run the 900 on it.

Depending on the cubic inch, I'd say it'll be about 600HP at the crank. Those heads don't flow that great, but are well matched to the cam, compression is about right, sounds like a little too much money, I'd bet that some of the forum guys would probably only give you about $500 for a set up like that, tops.. I'd offer about $550 just to top them, and of course, I'm just doing that from the goodness of my larcenous soul. Ha-ha! If you or your buddy don't buy that, then go beat your heads against the wall for 30 minutes or so and see if you can clear the cobwebs out.

Mine measures 94 inches exactly with a tape, center of spindle to center of axle, however mine has a 9 inch ford rear so I'm not sure about it being exactly in the same place as a stock z.