dr_hunt

I've got two pans, B&B and Wyotech ebay special. Both fit fine, haven't had any problems with either, tried both for fitment in the z, both fit fine. Running the Wyotech ebay special right now, holds 8 quarts with filter. It is a double kickout and looks kind of like the moroso pan.

already been covered in another thread, search

I thought the true measure of manhood was in inches. JK

I have a pair on the V8z at the recommendation of other hybrid z'ers. They make it street legal, the cops weren't impressed though. I haven't got a ticket yet, but then I guess I should register the car and insure it too. Quiet, no, but it's better than open headers. They are about like the race flowmasters, but they don't produce the cabin drone sound, so I think they are better IMHO.

How are they going to know what year the engine, heads, etc are unless somebody tells them? If it passes sniff, then it's original. Besides, it ain't illegal until you get caught.

Convinced of what? The HV pump isn't a must, the stock pump with a high pressure spring works for most applications where bearing clearances are tight, which is the low side of tolerance. If looser race clearances are used in the crank then the HV is a must have IMHO They make a M77HVS as well, which is a big block pump for a small block chevy. For every .001 additional bearing clearance you roughly double the volume of oil passed through the bearing clearance at a given pressure. I've never heard of a HV pump or any pump causing an engine to blow, unless it wasn't turning.

Nope, not worried about current drain, this is how aeromotive explained it to me. The electric pumps operate at one speed, on, and that's it. So when you are cruising they can overheat the pump motor. They make fuel pump controllers, but aeromotive says that with the high fuel pressure it has to remain on all the time. They say that the belt driven pump provides a more consistent fuel volume that is directly tied to engine rpm and that it will deliver more constant fuel pressure/volume than the electric and be more reliable in the long haul for this application. They could be wrong, I could be wrong for believing them, but there's only one way to find out and then I can always let the rest of the world know from experience. I guess sometimes you just gotta try something new even if it involves a new mouse trap.

Not really sure about HP levels. Motor should make in excess of 400HP on motor alone with the AFR 220's, so, 600-800 should be easily attainable with good street manners and of course there is always crazy sick HP. Block has been o-ringed already, using copper head gaskets. I can probably get the Monte to work with 800+HP and the z with 600, at least that's my thought anyway. Single turbo would be easier I agree. Wanting advice from those that have done and been there already. Fuel pump, belt driven Aeromotive for EFI, yes it is now a reality. I think technology is finally catching up with the hotrod crowd, making it easier to make mondo HP.

I think you can turbo 10:1 motor on pump gas, but it would be boost limited. 10:1 on alcohol is just right, even 11:1 on supercharged engines works very very well. Nope, turbo meister didn't have any influence, but it didn't hurt any. I was always planning on doing a twin turbo cause I wanted a true street car and turbo engines allow for mild street manners and unholy hell when the pedal is wooded out. Kind of like women I guess. I too thought of the procharged route, but longetivity with those units is still a question in my mind. I have several friends that have them and they are always trashing the serpentine drive belts at a cost of $100 a piece. lbm of air is alot more at 30psi, I think that figure was for 15 psi if I remember correctly. I had looked at the T4 60-1 as well, gets pretty close for 15 psi boost. I need to know what the turbo is doing throughout the rpm range not just at specific points, so I was looking at buying a turbo calculator program. The monte has alot of room, but the z does not, you are correct. However I plan to build it for the z, just install it in the monte for starters. The monte is a much more stable platform for that kind of HP. It has the 9 inch, th400, 4 wheel disc's, and yes it weighs 3800 with my lard butt in the seat. Both run the same ignition and fuel systems so it'd be an easy change.

Ok, well, I decided to do it. The 357 hasn't even broken in yet in the z. Out it comes, in goes the 406 out of the Monte SS. See what the z runs with that engine. Bought another sbc dart block yesterday, having it decked and honed with the special cam bearings installed. Disassembling the 357, parking the production 4 bolt block in the shop for future use, changing pistons to low compression JE's, rebalance, re-install in the dart block with turbo roller grind cam. Going to go with the accel superam intake on alky and go turbo. I like twin turbos cause it looks cool if for no other reason. Add your advice here.... Don't know squat about turbo's, been looking, done the math, seems as though I should be looking for 35lb/min each for twins, and 70 lb/min for a single, but that depends on boost level. Insert your advice here........ Alky should let me see 30psi boost easy. Plan on installing the engine with just the EFI, run it on the street in the monte until I get the rings seated, then add turbo(s) and then switch motors and get it in the z.

Well Mike, at least you got out while the getting was still good. I have to admire a person with integrity, dignity and the ability to use both in conjunction with common sense. Hat's off.

I was kind of thinking he ought to put up signs that says something along the lines of "DANGER LAND MINES" and then have others that say "POSTED NO TRESPASSING". Oh, by the way, his land was patented back in the 1820's and has been in his family for a long, long time.

Deputy dog is so stupid, he couldn't tell the same story from the Grand Jury testimony until last week, completely different stories about the same incident. The ADA, well, I guess there's three types, those that don't care, those that do care and apply the law and those that __ck with you just cause they can. Deputy Dog, kept saying, "Well, my boss told me what to do", pretty sad for a major crime unit member that investigates murders and the like. For instance, they found several old tarnished brass cases that were a 30.06 and had obviously stepped on, didn't have warrant, nothing, didn't follow chain of evidence, nada. Sends them to the state crime lab, the crime lab supervisor testifies that they all came from the same gun, but they don't know what gun. What a waste of time and taxpayer expense. Buddy was shooting a .303 British. Morons, simply morons, a weapons check in the field would have exhonerated him from the onset.

I'll try to keep this short. A buddy of mine ownes 2000 acres of land that adjoins National Forest in NM. Four hunters were trespassing in 2002. When he tried to run them off, they fired several rounds in the air and my buddy , not wanting to take on 4 guys with guns, quickly left to call law enforcement twice. Deputy dog shows up, finds hunters in same location, doesn't check weapons, doesn't check crime scene and makes the hunters leave. Buddy writes statement and deputy dog says he'll file criminal trespass charges against hunter. Ok, two months later, buddy gets charged with 4 counts of assault with a deadly weapon, fourth degree felony, and looking at 16 years in the Pen. Seems the 4 hunters went on a campaign to claim my buddy actually shot at them with a manlicher stocked military weapon, possibly a 30.06 and that buddy doesn't own property and produce bogus documents that somebody else owns property. DA dismisses charges no less than 5 times in magistrate court, before going in front of a grand jury and getting an indictment for the same. Goes to trial, Hunters can't seem to tell the same story, DA says buddy doesn't own property. Defense produces survey and surveyor (retired) who surveyed property back in '82, proves otherwise with deed and survey. Defense lawyer blows holes in witness statements, produces evidence that buddy had loaded .45 auto under seat so wouldn't have pulled out an old military rifle, that had only 2 shells in it to take on 4 armed guys, besides, buddy left to call law twice, and hunters stayed hunting even after supposedly getting shot at. Deputy admits that he is a member of the major crimes investigation unit, however he didn't; call for backup, perform weapons check, search vehicles, investigate crime scene for spent cartridges, interview witnesses separately, perform follow up investigation on defense witnesses, perform property deeds search, research county tax assessors maps, or any investigation whatsoever, however he did take the hunters side of the story as gospel. Jury acquits on all four counts in 1.5 hours of deliberation yesterday. My buddy is vindicated and 50K lighter in the pocketbook. Law enforcement and the criminal justice system is bogus, questioning my faith in the law, makes me wonder what would have happened if my buddy didn't have the resources to get a good lawyer.

As far as the hoses go they are fine, I've been running alky for 3 years and not a sign of a problem. The additive I use is an upper cylinder lubricant from Red Line which is avail on ebay for 5 or 7 bucks, one bottle does a whole drum. The fragrance also works well so that the fumes don't sting the eyes. I don't run a fuel filter yet. The Aeromotive pump has a screen on the inlet side. When the engine is cold, they are hard to start on alky, alky doesn't flood the engine like gas does. I squirt some gas in the carb when cold for the first start. Low compression engines are harder to start than high compression. And by cold I mean like 60 degrees, colder than that and even the high compression motors are hard to start. Alcohol usually requires a different plug, a little colder works for me. I'm running an Autolite AR3932 gapped at .025 for the AFR heads. Alky engines are clean, in the combustion area, but the byproduct of the combustion is H2O, so what you'll see is a milky color to the oil after awhile. You have to change oil alot more often and don't be suprised if you pull the valve cover and find water beads everywhere. A vacuum system eliminates alot of that but I've never had any detrimental problems. Use a synthetic oil like Mobil1. I race with a 5W-30 as it's easier on the distributor gear IMHO.

First of all let me say that if your fuel system is alcohol compatible you can always run gas, just by changing carbs. That being said the following is true to the best of my experience. BSFC for alcohol is 1, which is twice that of gas so you need bigger fuel lines than you do for gas. A -8 or -10 is pleanty. If you have a fuel cell already, take the foam out, alcohol eats the foam. Alcohol runs $110/55 gallon barrel. Race gas here now is $325/55 gallon barrel and I've been told is going up. You use twice as much but if you do the math, it's still cheaper than gas and you get the big gains. If you had a heating problem, alcohol will solve that in an instant, even without a thermostat, expect engine temps to hover around 150 depending on jetting and size of rad. If you richen up the mixture engine temp will lower, opposite for leaning it out. Expect ice cold intake manifold temps and after a run on a humid day, don't be suprised to see ice on the outside of the intake manifold. Rich and Lean sound the same as Rich does when running gas, so read the plugs or start rich and lean out until you don't see any more drop in quarter mile times. Alcohol jets jump a size, ie. 146, 148, 150, etc. which is a normal gas jet size times 2, so a starting point is 2 times whatever jet size you ran on gas, maybe one or two more sizes up to start. Lean is mean, but melts pistons, so be carefull or it'll melt a dime size hole in a piston real quick. If anybody needs fuel cell foam, I have foam from two 12 gallon cells. Alcohol compatible fuel pump is required, alcohol compatible fuel filter which is just brass screen type. Alcohol fuel pressure regulator, which is some of the more high end regulators, they have teflon seats and seals. Alcohol carb, Holley, DaVinci, BoLaws, BG, C&S, etc. all make fine carbs. If you have all that and save your gas carb, you can always change to gas by just switching carbs and adding gas. HP gain, depends on the carb. You'll pick up a half second in the quarter as a general rule. I picked up 8mph on the top end. Mainly it picks up Torque throughout the whole rpm range but especially in the midrange. My 60' times dropped 2 tenths and I picked up 7 tenths in the quarter mile on a compression motor and 9 tenths on a 9:1 motor, but the carb size wasn't the same so that probably accounts for the larger gains. I went from a box stock 750DP to a C&S Aerosol Billet 900cfm cause they come with a 30 day money back guarantee, no questions asked. Alcohol is hydroponic, which means it attracts moisture from the air. Maintenance is an issue if the car is going to sit for awhile. Alcohol also eats natural rubber. Drain the lines, tank and carb, spray penetrating oil in the carb and pump or do like I do, change to gas carb, clean alcohol carb, pump out the alcohol back into my drum, add gas and run till it clears up, good to go. Takes me 20 minutes to do all of that at the end of the day. I've left alcohol in the system for a week or two, but this is the dry southwest. Changing to alcohol is like adding a 50-75 shot of NOS IMHO.

Well, at least now we know what hybrid z members do in their off time when not working on their cars! We men are simple, on, off and only one switch, or is it girls, cars and one switch?..........

What was the title of this thread? NA I think!

$1675.00 for car $6500.00 engine $1000.00 Trans $75.00 slicks (used) $275.00 Detroit locker $4000.00 Misc stuff for engine like ignition, intake, carb, headers, converter, water pump, pulleys, windshield, roll cage, shifter, yada, yada. Close to 14K total, not including paint and the upcoming backhalf project.

My quote was "Water injection just uses the latent heat of vaporization to cool the intake charge." It was a response to the question as to whether or not water injection adds HP. Increasing compression and timing are other factors I never mentioned but are the centerpiece of the article. I'd like to see a dyno test where timing and compression were left constant in a normal NA automobile engine and water injection added 30-50% more HP. Holy smokes if that papers claims are correct, it's as good as nitrous for less than 100 bucks! Ten percent water is alot of water, but would be worth it to get 520HP or even 600HP if it is as claimed. The fact that it didn't yield homogenous results is rather alarming though. The statement from Moridin was quote; "I read somewhere, that the water reacts with the gasoline during combustion (I'm not 100% sure about this) to add more energy to the process, thus adding more chemical power - this is beside the cooling effect." Fact: The internal energy of water in BTU/lb mass is 0.00 in a liquid state and -143.34 if in a saturated vapor at the same temperature, taken from Fundamantals of Classical Thermodynamics, 3rd ed, Wiley publishing, pg 619-633. So, after the water went through the carb venturi, we have to assume that it is in the same state as the fuel, vapor, it would then slow the combustion process down by removing heat, which would slow the pressure rise, since the pressure in the combustion process (P1*V1/T1=P2*V2/T2) is inversely proportional to the temperature, and the heat is lost to raising the temp of the water in lb mass, which in this case is 10% of fuel, so it would be significant. Bottom line, acts like octane! Your talking a different kettle of fish pardner as evidenced in the paper! Quote; "Early designs of high compression ratio aircraft piston engines employed a water vapour induction system to increase the fuel anti-knock rating and engine output." Key point here is the words "Water vapour" and the evident fact that they were detonating engines because they didn't have enought octane and using water injection to overcome the limitations of high compression air cooled engines. That's the point, if your running on the edge, yup, you'd be loosing HP, alot of HP, detonation kills and 30 to 50% gains would be practical and realistic if you were running on the edge, however not on a normal NA engine. Quote; “All observations are attributed to a cooling effect due to the high latent heat of vaporisation of water and to a water induced slow-down of the combustion process. Direct test evidence on latent heat effects and on water induced changes in combustion rates does not yield homogeneous results, owing to various typologies of the engines used for experiments.†However they don't state what the "various typologies" are that were used in the experiments. I'd like to call a duck a duck and a goose a goose, so it would be beneficial to know engine particulars so we don't categorize all engines as being the same, because they are not. Which is why the KB hemi makes 8,000 HP out of 500 cubic inches and that is why they are not using blown 500 inch BBC's or Fords. Primary effect was latent heat of vaporization, secondary was delaying the combustion process effectively the same as increased octane. There is no mention of reacting with gasoline on a chemical basis, adding more chemical power or adding more energy to the process. I'd bet that if you research that paper alittle more they are specifically referencing very, very early high compression air cooled engines. Advances in NA aircraft engine design today are kin to the automotive world and would be like a comparison of the LS1 to the Ford flathead of the 30's. Gather some more details and let's see what that paper is all about so we don't get all hyped up on your claims of 30 to 50% more HP.

Woke up to rain, beginning to think I should move to seattle. Jap Tin what size slicks did you end up putting under your z to get it to hook up?

Another welcome back to add to the thousands you've undoubtedly had already. It'll all work out, just know that somebody is watching you and everything you say and do now. In all my early born days, I believed in alot of this country and what it stood for, including the justice system. That was until I had my dealings with it. I am now of the opinion that if you "piss somebody off" that is in law enforcement, then your screwed unless you have a good lawyer and then sometimes your just screwed anyway. Put it behind you and move on, life has way too much to offer and that crap will always stink, and it keeps stinking if you keep stirring!

Ok, I asked my uncle, retired AF colonel, who was a WWII fighter pilot, korea (jet age), and Vietnam (jet age), although in Vietnam he flew B52 missions out of alaska. He said irregardless of whether the plane had water injection or nitrous, the engines had to be rebuilt if the throttles had been pushed beyond a certain point, due to overrevving. He said the H2O injection rarely worked since it would freeze in the winters of England and, but rarely used NOS since they needed every plane they had intact and not down for repairs. He said it was a hell of a plane and the H2O injection wasn't that critical to the planes performance as was the NOS and his understanding from briefings was that the H2O was for suppressing detonation. He also said he personally never needed or used the NOS. Stoichiometrically, would somebody show me how water reacts with gasoline in a controlled combustion to increase HP! I thought it was like this; C8H18 + 12.5O2 --> 8CO2 +9H2O Correct me if I'm wrong here but if you add H2O to the left side then to balance you add H20 to the right side as well, however you are adding (L)H2O to the left and the product on the right is (G)H20 resulting in a net loss of energy from the equation, subsequently you have less BTU given off because it was used in converting the liquid H2O to gaseous H2O. So any benefit has to be from denser inlet air temperature and nothing else. Water does not react with gasoline, never has and never will.

So, basically what you are saying is that the load should be spread out along the car for the forces acting perpindicular to the chassis's longitudional axis, but what about the rotational forces acting with the same axis?

Pop N Wood, really? I thought Datsun was what happened when the oriental CEO wanted to make a car for the market really quick like in 240 days and the oriental engineer said "Dat" "Sun". The upgrade took 260 days and so on, so forth. JK, LMAO!