dr_hunt

The z had a 250/260 duration at .050, .600/.625 lift crane roller with 108LSA. Was good for 11.29 @ 122mph. Kind of a mild roller so I thought I'd try something different. Just bought a crower roller part number 00439 282/286 duration at .050, .672/.687 lift on a 108LSA. Supposed to be mid to top end on a 350 with automatic trans. Also trans brake should be in next week sometime, so I'll do both installs at the same time. What do you think?

The problem with ricers is that the rest of the drivetrain doesn't hold up. Which is why NHRA told them "If you can make them get down the track witout oiling it, then your in, otherwise, your out"

Total seal rings work only if the bore is round, and I mean with deck plates and mains torqued and round by a competent machinist. It adds up in the long run, alittle hp here and alittle there.

running on empty - Yeah, we see alot of people moving here from Calif. Alot of movie stars and just alot of peope in general. The problem we have is that we think differently and we don't want the calif way of thinking about how to change things here to what they are like out there cause it's different here and quite frankly you've lost alot of liberties out that way that we enjoy here. Diversity, it's what makes up the world, if it was all the same it wouldn't be much fun. I don't envy you living there, I couldn't do it, but you can ship all the beach babes over we'll take those as we have lots of beach sand, just no water to go with it.

Look, just because your state is beginning to suck, doesn't mean you can move somewhere else. That is the problem with CA too many people trying to save you all from yourselves. Think about it, you are the problem, as a collective whole. Too many people in such a small place trying to breathe the same air. JK, it is a trend, population growth and change in lifestyle. When I was a kid we had one car and mom was the carpool driver. When me and my sis were teenagers we had to share. NOW THAT SUCKS! Today everybody has their own car and when you drive on the freeway there is one person to a car on the by and large. Ford engines work fine for the frames they were intended for. I like fords, especially the ones that I race against. JK For me is is two fold, money, Fords cost more and second, availability of aftermarket parts, chevy wins that one hands down.

Cozy z cole, you'll love the afr heads, but why go with the 195's? the 210's make alittle more power. All I can say is WOW, pretty impressive!

Look guys, Hans has lost his mind, enough power!?? Hans, go have your blood pressure checked, you must be sick or something. If you die can I have your car, hint, hint.

I have a buddy that has a procharger on his car, he says to go with 5.7 rods, 350 cubes and TRW blower pistons also like Turbo meister. He's been through Probe, Arias, JE's and BRC pistons and lost them all. The TRW's have held up for 3 years now doing nothing but drag racing every weekend. He says they are heavy but bullet proof. I found some on ebay today, I'm watching those. Selling my Manley rods, sorry, couldn't find out how to post a classified. Going to buy some Eagle rods with the L19 bolt upgrade, use the 4 bolt 350 block I have, top it with some AFR 220 heads and I was looking for a solid roller cam for the thing. Doesn't take alot of cam, but I want the 4-7 swap cam in this motor. Turbo meister, 6500 is pleanty of rpm for me. Actually I like to keep them around 6K. Also take a look at C&S specialties, do a google search, they have a blow through carb for gas and alky that they claim you can make the power sans intercooler, especially with the alky carb just like your setup. Work it baby, would sure save alot of intake plumbing. I might be a meister clone, but I like to haul butt, what can I say. Shoot me. Besides, I'm still drooling and itchin' to get more hp. The z hooks good, goes straight, what else can you ask for.

LMAO! Gimme, Gimme!

Half the battle is believing that you can, the other half is alot harder. Either way, it will be a learning experience that you will remember the rest of your life. I would suggest not putting a time frame on it at all since this is your first such project. Multiplying by 5 is for experienced wrenches, Newbies have no time limit. I have well over 12K in my boys and we're not on to paint yet, but that is not a real cost figure since the engine was $6500 by itself. Have fun, you'll learn alot here. Good luck!

Thanks turbo meister, that's the kind of experience and feedback I was looking for. HP, well, that's adjustable. What drives me to this combination is streetablility vs all motor combinations that have little street manners for the high hp versions anyway. Did I wipe my chin? Yup, the available power under boost is alluring to say the least, but the docile street manners is what I'm looking for so I can make it a street ride as well. Ditto for the Monte SS as well. If I can get one to work, I'll build another. What kind of bumpstick, roller, hyd, hyd roller, or solid? considering dual purpose strip/street?

Well, funds are an issue, I mean I don't want to have 20k in motor alone. but was thinking of basic long block, efi or carb, turbo system, and HP level that'd be usable in the z, I was figuring about 10K. Always can control hp with wastegates and rpm to match what I can hook up. Thanks for the info.

Yup, .010 on both mains and rods.

Ok, starting the turbo engine and was wondering how many cubes to build. Assuming that it ends up in the z of course. I was droooooooooooling over turbo meister's vid's and I wa, wa, want one! Chin wipe, I'm ok now. I have a 4 bolt sbc block, .030, decked to 9.005, align honed, arp studs, ready to rock. Also have Manley 6 inch rods. I am looking at some wiseco dished pistons on EBAY for the 6 inch rod and 3.48 stroke, but I was wondering about the 383 as well. I have a gm steel 350 crank that'll go 10/10, but was considering going eagle 4340. Heads of course are AFR 220's, I like them. Innovative turbo in Calif. has a twin turbo blow through setup that they claim is 750HP in a 350 at on pump gas, I think, but I don't know what pump gas, 91 or 93 or what engine details, sometimes these advertised figures can be misleading. Was thinking about that system or the Bucks, I mean Banks$$$$$. I talked to the innovative guys and they say that on alky I can get 850 out of that setup or alot more with more boost, which means upgraded turbo's, yada yada. The innovative kit is $3400 or so, but that doesn't include intake piping or intercooler, and they recommend intercooler. Shoot me some thoughts from your years worth of experience and give me your advice, as long as it doesn't inlcude putting the turbo engine in your z. Thanks, David

Well, it's still pig rich, won't get above 150 degrees temp even with the fan off, but timing is rock steady at 40 BTDC, short shifting at 6K, ran 11.290 @ 121.25, 1.641 60', 7.227 at the 1/8th. Made it to the quarter finals before I went to sleep at the tree. Let a buddy drive it and he went 11.20 @ 122.19. I'll post my time slip later. Next is leaning out the carb and dropping the timing to 35 and start tuning from there.

You lucky dog, wish I had a bridgeport. Now I'm jealous! As for the engine bay stretch the frame rails and weld in some fender spacers.

Yup, checked for WOT, got that, the cheapo bracket only bolts to one carb stud so it would rotate just enough to not get WOT. I fabbed something to make it work, installed it last night at 12:30. Checked density altitude last night and it was 6600. I'll see what it is today. The timing is what's bothering me, I tried to set it and it's bouncing all over the place, which makes me think the timing light is old and busted. Never know, could be the cap and rotor needs replacing as well. Haven't checked rotor phasing yet either and it's adjustable on this rotor (MSD). I have a 7AL2 box and maybe it's going as well, dunno. Last time shifted at 6K went through the lights at 6500, new motor and all, didn't want to step on it real hard. So, this time we'll see if it likes to go 7K at the 1-2 shift. Ordering a trans brake as well, so that'll help the launch, I think. Lowering the rear of the car should help with weight transfer, although I didn't have any problems before, besides, it looks better. I don't like the 4500 stall converter from the hillbillies in TX as much as I like the Art Carr converter from El Paso that's in my Monte, so I think I'll change that later as well. The upper portion of my fenderwells are rolled, so they aren't sharp, I had to trim the lower portion from where the bumper used to go down cause the 29.5's were awefully close, in fact they had hit, probably on the top end, and kind of wadded the lower rear quarter a little. So, trimmed those about an inch and ground off the sharp edges. Yup, tires are in the wells, only 9 inch wide. In the video's the car doesn't squat in the rear at all, just picks up the front and goes. I got springs for 1400 lb rear car weight, probably too heavy, but I'll play with that later. Those QA1 coilovers with adjustable race shocks are awesome, if you all ever go 9 inch, get that kit off ebay, delivered for $400.

Well, going over the z today, found a vacuum cap off the back of the carb base plate, when this happened on my monte it cost me 2 tenths. Fabricated a throttle cable bracket as it seemed the autozone special was moving and not letting me get full throttle, I think anyway. Going to up the timing or at least try to check it, it was bouncing all over the place the other day and I don't really know what it's set at, I think it was at 35 BTDC but I'm not sure. Could be the timing light or could be something else. It's an old MAC timing light I've had for 25 years. Got new M/T 29.5x9x15 slicks this week so I'll slap those on in the AM. Adjusted the rear coilovers and lowered the rear of the car 1.5 inches and cut the fenderwells with a cutoff saw for more clearance, probably won't help performance but it looks better not having the *** end sticking up in the air. Track in Alb. has gone to night racing now so maybe the air will be a little better as well. Hoping I can get it into the tens tomorrow. I checked the alb. airport weather and the density air was at 6600 feet. Still sucky, but it's the best I've seen this year.

Sure looks like an alignment problem to me. If you don't have alignment problems, then the pushrods don't show any wear at the guide plate. If you have wear at the guide plate then there is usually other issues.

Wow, those some big bucks for 400rwhp, hopefully you get more.

I used to do alot of motorhome engines and that is the only way to remove them. My dad told me that there is only two ways to go through life laying flat on your back. 1 is to be a prostitute and 2 is to be a mechanic. He asked me which I'd rather be? I think most guys are both or would like to be.

Just goes to show you that idle hands will do. A complete waste of film.

No the steering shaft would hit if I bent them or added spacers. Dart blocks have siamesed cylinders like the bow tie blocks and the 4 inch bore can be safely bored to 4.185 so they added these scallops to allow water to cool the thicker cylinder walls, which leads to the problem. If you look at the S&S headers, some minor changes in the bending could result in alot better fitment IMHO.

I'd visit the shop often, perhaps his conscience will get the best of him. Be cordial but not jovial. Ask questions and have him come look at the car if he's not working on the car so you can interrupt what he's doing and maybe just maybe he'll start work on the car. I've been through that as well, which is why I have my own shop now and do most everything myself, except paint.

Just thought you all ought to know, installed engine in z, dart block, afr heads and the S&S full length headers hit the block where the scallops are around the water drain hole on the side of the block.