hat1324
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Everything posted by hat1324
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2MRCYLS and yeah, RB30's are SUPER rare here, i had talked with one of the skyline guys about getting a RB30DETT for a S14 and it was 3500 just for the motor...
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werd, i havent looked into the rear stuff because I have a solid axel for it.. When people no longer let you work on their cars because you have a habit of leaving off parts they "don't need" *When you work on your car and have parts and/or bolts left over you consider it "weight reduction" or "better engineering"
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yeah, well im not restoring it... im 351w boosted it... so im thinking im calling the guy now.. and making back some of the cash of this parts car...
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Sitting in my drivway is a 4/74 datsun with less then 25k on it, but looks like its got over 200k. Rusted floor, batery tray, hole in the engine bay, rusted sheetmetal in the hatch and a few other bad spots.. I removed the tranny and driveshaft.. the rear is locked so I cant move it(i think the P brake is on). the front passenger pannel is smashed, the dash is cracked.. the seats are awesome but thats about it.. oh yeah rockers are rusted there is a 280 Z 110 miles away from me that MIGHT run, it needs a new battery and has been sitting.. Now from what the guy has told me, and what the pics show it has no reall problems. few spot rustings and a dirty engine bay.. Hes willing to let me come out and look at it no problem, and offered to deliver it to me if I won his ebay auction.. it went for 510 and didnt meet the reserve, he said it was very close and was willing to negotiate. I think hed take 550 or 600 THE DELIMA: I REALLY WANT THAT Z. I think it would save me tons of money in restoration(dash, passenger side pannels, floorboards, engine bay) and think that my swap would be much easyer.. BUT ITS A 260!!! i know its nothing special but it seams rare enough, and Ive allready got about 1k into this chassis.. i was going to swap parts but dunno.. ive got alot of parts for my Z, but not in it.. I need a welder.. but I could use the money for the welder and get this Z. but then have to wait a bit for the welder.... i could pirate parts(driverside pannel, headlight buckets,wheels taillights, side markers et) at get a wrecker to give me $100 for the Z chassis and the 280 motor sitting in my garage, id get scrap price but with the parts i wouldnt take that bad of a hit... I NEED HELP...
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when people ask, you tell them its stock.. and they know a littleou about them and think your slow.. when you turn your car on and everyone goes WTF?
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im in indiana and its damn near impossible to find a Z. if i could get one out here cheaper I would... a damn body pannel and dash costs more then a parts car.
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not a prob! but the pic I have has the mesh style wheels.. Im getting the 17x10.5 and 17x9 factory wheels.. I HAVE to flare it, but id like to keep it as far from widebody as possible. The ford 9" will help a little bit but i dunno... what flares do you recomend?
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i would saw it so fast, but I have a welder
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rb30??? bored 26 or a austrailian block?? RB26Z S30GTZ ULOST IWIN RBS30 STILLA6 ALLSTCK ZILINE
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yeah, Im using alot of ford stuff, and have to just say its a mustang so people dont ask to manny questions... when in towing the hood wipped open BC the latch sucks.
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and i bet there BASIC calipers
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few more: you've gone to a junk yard, and the directions you got to a Z were: go over the hill, down the creek and behind the tower by the van...
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I searched for one of these, couldnt find it but YOU try searching "you know you own" ill start with a few of my own: you have more then 50 posts on over 6 different Z only forums, but go to hybrid z before all else. you pick the worst rust bucket in the world to invest in, but do because its cool. you refer to your car as "the piece" you refer to your car as "sex on wheels" youve called the stock crossmember your "bench" as you work on the engine bay you've cut more then 30lbs out of the car because of rust.. you are extatic when a pannel is rust free you know witch paint removers work, and witch dont, and why you have to wear gloves. you have no interior, just a bunch of AC boxs and the steering column as you work(more to this) you then get discouraged, go get the stock seat, sit it on what remains of the floor board, rig it to settle and sit in the driver seat.. ocasionally shifting. you look at other makes of cars, and the first thing on your mind is "i could fit that in my Z" you've wanted to do the ford swap, but learn how dumb ford mounts are, and how much easyer the SBC is and go with it. you call your car the "580 Z" people ask you " is that thing stock?" the minute you see anything Z related(like some wack *** b movie at 3AM that the guy drives a 280) you freak out and try and take pics you follow Z's that sound beefy. i think of more when I work on it.. like to see what others have.
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ive hit this part as well. Im single turboing a 351W and am going to have some sick power as well. not 1k but 1k would be to much for me.. I have the ford 9" ready to be shortened and the z on the stands.. ive searched, and searched, and searched, and this is what ive run across. flares can support WIDE tires, without flairing to much. Im planning on running 315+ on cobra rims. and maybe wider on slicks. Tubbing is cool, but hides the extent of the car. Also flairs with wide tires look sick, and its hard to hide whats under the hood when its tubbed. if I see a wide tire car with flairs i think its more style, I see it tubbed and I know its ready to go. ALSO classes at the track require tubbing/no tubbing so you kinda loose out there. FLairing +1 why isnt this a poll?
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o...k... im going to re add it then
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why was my add for my 260 tranny deleted?
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OK! I've been reading, and reading, and reading, and searching, even translating pages from japanise to finalize my list for my car. Half of its on order, half is waiting on my welder to come in to make my brackets and supports.. the only thing im left with is the suspension and basics. What Im used to is Z32's and s13's that require welding in camber plates or a adjustible rod and a coilover setup, bam! done, takes maybe 2hrs to do the whole car. Now Im messing with a 4/74 260 and the stock setup is not going to handel what im putting into it. What will be in it: 357W fully forged/ARP. tremec tko built for 750tq GT45 boosted FMIC(the one sold by a hybrid z member) 6 point cage larger aluminum radiator dry cell battery relocated fuel cell(in spare tire location) removed the radiator support for a angled forward version(more bay clearance) Solid rear end(ford 9") aluminum driveshaft. cobra 03 17" wheels. the car will be a street demon(NOT A DAILY)/track car. It will prodominatly go in a straight line, but Id like to build it for RR as much as possible(if I wanted a drag car id just buy a mustang); BESIDES getting the 9" witch will be all custom regardless of stock setup I need help with this front suspension/brakes. this is what Ive gathered I will need and need advice on changing: MM coilover conversion/adjustible illuminas techno toy camber plates sectioned strut tubes raised LCA pivot(for bumpsteer) larger sway bar(what size?) Z31 hubs/spacer(for the wheels) Kit for cobra calipers 280 master proportioning valve linelock custom strut braces will I still need the bumpsteer spacers with the raised pivot? Ive searched back to 03 and think I have a good setup, I can build damn near anything, but I am by no means as qualified to make these decisions blindly.
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Savage adjustable control arms?
hat1324 replied to auxilary's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
what is the advantages of using a adjustible LCA then camber plates? -
thats it, you are ALL switching to decaf.
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steering troubleshooting
hat1324 replied to PapaSmurf's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
my wheels turn easyer stoped then my s10 does and it has PS.. wait maybe thats because theres no motor.. but seriously, its super easy in my manual rack and the prev owner said it was the same when he drove it.. -
my Z only has 25k miles and maybe 15 years of door opening and closing... good thing it blew the motor in 89, sat outside in the winter up north,and got backed into; other wise it would be nice!
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this I have to agree with. My roomate has a 383(that odly enough came from a Z) and im going ford, and there are times when I find parts for cheaper then he does.
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smog? in Indiana you barely have to have a muffeler... and Im doing the ford swap into my 74, different then the ZX but still will be interesting. largest problem on the ford swap is the clearing of the steering shaft. I havent built my mounts yet, and I dont like the ones that adapt to stock location. I'll either build a sadel type or individual ones.. i have a cool idea for the shaft but we'll see. and they make aftermarket rear sump oil pans and pickups for the ford motors...