hat1324

I like that method better then the ones I made.. mine go parallel with the rear subframe for 1" while yours have that notch..

I just made mine, the floors out so I can take any pic you want.. will be with my camera phone though.. what I did was go straight back from the front rail to where the pan rises, then went up at 45* then straight across to the rear frame.. _________________________/== ________________________// ======================= somthing like that lol.. forget the solid lines, spaces didnt hold out..

Id definatly be interested in a final product, what are we looking at with price?

im connecting mine to where the front frame rails meat the firewall, under the floor, 45* to the rear bar frame...

neither would I, it might work, but remember.. its made to LOOK like a HKS

DOH! i shoulda though of that...

so would I, i have seen 2 pictures of a jag with the setup.. I need to learn more about suspension in general.. it seams as soon as I hit a wall in knowledge, I have to learn everything about it before I start any of it.. and as far as my plans, I plan on a stupid fast street car, with fun weekends at a dragstrip or a road race track.. Not autoX..

I can get those wisecos cheaper, weird.. maybe not coated... dunno thanks for the links

I havent seen any kits readily availible, especially because the mounting methods differ from case to case.. as far as manifold, I dont see really any specific brands for it here in the states, but there is many on ebay..

Im starting my rear end swap into the Z.. was going with a 9 but a built 8.8 seams more likely of a canidate.. ive been searching and searching, and it seams that for a 4Link setup the satchell link design is the best option w/o bind.. Here is my understanding: the setup is like a tradional setup, the top of the 4link bolts to the frame rail and stays parallel with the car, BUT the bottom extends to the center of the car as close as possible to the direct center of the car as possible.. the information online is sparse so Im wondering what those here think about it...

any pics now? did you raise the position of the frame rails or did you make a angle piece?

ok for those of you that made the subframe connector, what about the sway bar mount that is in the exact spot of the rail? im going solid rear so probobly doesnt matter

everything is out of the car, it sits on 3 wheels and a jackstand at the moment, One more Q while I have you lurking John, Is what about the middle rail for the seat? or could I cut it out as well(rusted).. I cant think of what its called, what is the rectangular tubing with circles cut out?

BUMPING! My frame rail is ok but my floorboards are rusted through, i didnt stop to look as I started cutting but the rail that runs through the floor is also rusted, my question NOW is.. as I have allready cut the hell out of the floor as I planned to remove it(driverside) Should I just cut the floorboard framerail out, and make subframe connectors like the pictures posted? what will happen if I cut the floor out, and leave it overnight till the metal supply shop opens?

Im looking for some specifics in the RB internals, here goes: ALL RB's Crank journel: piston J: Piston Bore: RB30 Rod length: Mainly BC Im looking into getting certan pieces made in the US, or using NISSAN parts overhere..

ford mounts will be a bit werd though, the chevys use a differnt mountng style..

well I can get a motorset(engine/trans/ECU/harness/coils) for 3k delvered to my airport and a 26 for 4k

eek Im running a MP-GT45 1.15/61 and dont know what to expect

are you worried about turbo lag? that turbo is a good size...

I like either seeing none or a line from the thong... sexyer that way...* * NOT IF YOUR BODY TYPE IS NOT MENT FOR THIS CLOTHING... "I belive! Thongs should require a aplication process before being alowed to wear" - bill engval

yeah knew that was coming

Good to know, well that definatly changes my mind on that then..

isnt power FC a standalone? the stock computer is removed.. will a RB26 intake fit onto a RB25 head?

thats what I fear, roaming forums till what I need pops up, but anything I can save.. especially with the crazy shipping prices..

where can you get it for 2500? is that just the motor? and from what ive seen the most, the biggest difference is between the R32 and R33 versions.. and I belive they still have the oil pan pickup problem... ALSO Skylines down under say that they mostly use 96 octane, and a newer version of 98