Phyxius

That almost sounds better, because the stuff that i'll be welding is only about .06" thick. It seems if the penetration is less, then it would be harder to blow holes in it.

everything I've read indicates that you need to TIG weld aluminum with AC. Is it possible to TIG weld it with DC?

I don't want to take it to a professional because it is something that I want to learn to do myself. I'm considering buying a high frequency starter box for my arc welder to convert it to AC TIG.

I'm currently working on some aluminum piping for my intercooler, and I need to make and weld on a flange for my BOV. At work, I have access to a Miller XMT-304cc/cv. I was wondering if I could weld the aluminum with this welder. We do have all of the MIG and TIG attachments, but I've read that you need to use AC when welding aluminum and this is a DC machine. One of the guys in the shop is going to teach me to weld with TIG, and I intend to get a lot of practice before I actually weld on my pipes. I've always wanted to learn TIG anyway. This is just a good excuse . Is it possible to weld aluminum with standard ferrous wire(MIG)? I'm not concerned about looks in this instance, i just need it to hold together. Also, can you weld/braze brass fittings onto aluminum? Thanks!

Did any of you see that show last night called 'Sucking Amps'?...i think it was on discovery. The guy builds electric cars and such. I was about to change the channel when I noticed that he was driving an electric 280zx.

I'd like to know the answer to this as well. I was thinking of going oversize on my exhaust valves on my turbo motor. Seems like it would help a good bit to me.

From experience, their turbos are crap. Also from experience, the intercoolers are decent. I've heard that the headers rarely fit like they are supposed to. I have not heard anything about downpipes.

I don't think you'd want your fuel to be too cool. If it gets too cool, it may not completely vaporize when injected. Vaporization takes heat from the intake charge. It takes more heat to vaporize a cool fuel as compared to a hot fuel. Since vaporization cools the intake charge, you'd want the fuel to be just cool enough that it takes the most possible heat from the intake charge to vaporize it. So I guess what I'm saying is that the more effort you put into cooling your intake charge before the injection, the less you want to cool your fuel. On the other hand, if you don't have an intercooler or water injection on a turbo motor, you may want the fuel as cool as can be. I'm not sure this is making any sense....or if you could even possibly get the fuel too cool by conventional methods.

if you dont want to do it yourself, use moby's base tune and you should be okay to drive it to the tuner.

At some point the fan shroud had come loose from the tab and was letting the fan hit it. It was sort of an intermittent noise, and wouldn't really do it at idle. The more I drove, the more iI noticed that it wasn't related to the transmission. So I started looking around under the hood and noticed the fan shroud wasn't where it should have been....

I found the source of all the noise I was getting...I'm too embarrassed to say what it was.

I got the KA tranny in my car and on the road today. It was great after seeing it sit for about a month. My only concern is that the tranny seems to be too noisy. The gear noise is very prominent. I think I overfilled it a little, but I've never heard of that making a tranny more noisy. I'm also not sure about the angle that I have it mounted at. I think it may be tilted too far back. Any ideas? Some things I noted during the swap: The shifter position moves so far back that the stock shifter boot and console must be modified or removed. The shifter will work without modification to the body sheet metal, though it looks like it will not. Making a solid mounting plate is much easier than modifying the cross-member. The shifter MUST be removed to install the tranny. I could install my old tranny without removing the shifter. Get a bellhousing from an 82-83 if at all possible. Trying to clearance the inside of the case is a pain....especially if you are using a battery powered dremel...ugh... You can swap the countershaft gear from the old tranny onto the KA tranny to avoid the cost of having the countershaft bearing hole in the Z tranny bored. A gear puller helps here, but It is possible with a nice drift and hammer if you are careful. I would recommend the gear puller. If the feet on the gear puller are too thick to seat behind the bearing, use a flathead screwdriver or 2 to work the bearing away from the gear a little. The haynes manual is wrong on the bellhousing to rear extension bolt torque. They do not take 131.8 lb-ft. 25 ft-lb is a much safer number. Replace the input and output shaft seals while you are at it. $20 well spent. O'rielly couldnt seem to find the right ones in their computer, so I went to autozone and got the part numbers...went back to O'rielly and they had them in stock....go figure... Check the clutch and flywheel while you are at it. Try not to think about how great an aluminum flywheel would be....haha If you want to shorten the shifter, now is the time. I used a propane torch to melt the rubber in the stock shifter enough that I could seperate the 2 halves. I then cut the threaded part off the top half and welded it to the bottom half. It cut about an inch off the shifter, and it feels nice. The reverse light switch (on the 4 speed bellhousing that I used) was not in the correct location. There was another boss on the housing that would have put it in the right spot, but I wasn't in the mood to take it back apart to drill and tap the hole when I noticed. that's all I can think of for now

There is a steel sleeve in the rear case for the tranny around the output shaft. This sleeve prevents my driveshaft from sliding onto the output shaft. Is it okay for me to remove the sleeve, or should I start looking for a new driveshaft? That would really suck because I've already had this driveshaft shortened. If I can remove it, is there anyway I can do it without taking the rear housing off off the gearbox?

I got one too...the bearings went out and the compressor wheel started rubbing within 100 miles. Buying the right quality one to begin with is much less expensive.

i broke all of mine and had to have them removed professionally at a machine shop that speciallizes in bolt removal. They managed to get them out without messing up the threads using a tig welder, some nuts, and some 140ksi rods.

I am considering mounting my greddy type S on the outlet end tank on my new IC. This would get it out of the engine bay and put it before my alcohol injection. I think that the end tanks are sufficiently thick to allow threading and flat enough to seal. I would be able to do this myself, thereby eliminating the cost of buying and having someone weld a flange to my new aluminum intake pipes. Can anyone see any problems with this idea?

will a 240sx pressure plate fit on a L series flywheel? If so, has anyone ever tried using a clutch kit from a 240sx? There are many more options out there.

I finally got it out. It took a combination of hammer swinging, a pulley puller, a lot of PB blaster, and several hours. I can't really see what the problem was. The end of one of the splines on the yoke is somewhat bent looking, but it doesnt look bad enough to make it hang that hard.

haven't tried the slide hammer, but i have been spraying it with PB blaster

from a visual examination, they bell housings look exactly the same to me. Maybe the difference is more subtle than i thought

I did search, but didnt find anything useful. I've also tried using a pully puller to seperate the two, but that was unsuccessful as well. The big bolt started to bow and I was afraid it was going to pop off and hurt me. I've considered the come along, but can't really think of a good way to hook to the driveshaft.

In the course of taking my stock 4 speed out, I was unable to remove the driveshaft from the rear of the tranny. I took the tranny along with the driveshaft out in hopes the driveshaft would be easier to remove once I got the tranny out. I managed to get it about 2" of the yoke out of the tranny, but it won't come any farther. I also can't get it to go back in. I've torn up one dead blow hammer and tried heating it with a propane torch with no success. Any ideas?

I've heard some say that the KA tranny will bolt right up without swapping the bell housing, but it will put the tranny at a wierd angle. My question is: how many degrees is it? Is it bad enough that the shifter would not be able to move correctly? Also, the bell housing on the KA tranny that I have is marked TA 71B #5. From what I understand, 240sx trannys are F5W71C's. I'm sure that this trans came from a KA. On a side note, I also have a FJ20 trans marked ZL 71B #5. The bell housings are identical, but the internals are somewhat different. It is quite a bit shorter as well.

back when i was thinking about this, i thought it would be a good idea to weld flanges external to the head and bolt them together that way.

I can't seem to find that on the site. Any hints? lol