midnightzxt

I've been having the same problems with the HEI. Be sure of a couple of things: 1. Make sure the HEI is mounted in a cool spot with lots of heat sink. Typically the killer is overheating the module. (Obviously, next to the turbo on the strut wall is not a good idea like I did) 2. Make sure that you don't turn the MS on and leave it on with the HEI module plugged in. This has also killed them for me. 3. Buy the EXPENSIVE brand. Don't go for the $7 HEI, get the $36 one. It makes a HUGE difference. 4. Last resort, get a different ignition setup... HEI has been nothing but trouble for me, and I need something more reliable.

All I want to do is drive the car!!!! My problems are now down to 1 and I believe that I have figured out what is wrong, but not the solution. I have deducted that my car dies at the exact point when warmup enrichments stop. As SOON as the Megasquirt goes out of warmup mode, the tach (ignition signal) spikes all over the place and the car slowly dies and I can't start it up again until the engine coolant system is cold enough for the Megaquirt to be in warmup mode again. What is going on?? any ideas? Thanks, Tim

I upgraded the firmware about two days before the spark problem.. 29y4 or something like that. I'm going to work on moving the HEI, and maybe even throw in a cooling tube from the fender?

Trigger angle is 60, no addition. Time based, 10 cranking angle, 1 hold ignition, no invert, -10 fixed angle spark map is extremely similar to Moby's Dwell control: cranking 6.0, running 4.0, minimum discharge .5

Those wires are soo far gone haha. what is the vb?

Thanks Mario I have it mounted on that heat sink white glue looking stuff. I think my problem is more of where it is mounted. When I first installed the MS and was drinking more alcohol then I do today, I mounted the HEI on the stock tower RIGHT next to the turbo... and I lost my stock metal heat shield about 6 years ago. BTW... does anyone have a spare heat shield I could buy? Anyways, in what location is the best spot to locate the HEI where the engine bay produces the least amount of heat? I'm also going to ground it with 10-12 guage wire directly to negative battery ground. If that doesn't work, then I'm going to look in to changing the spark system I'm using. Can you post a list of the settings you're looking for?

I think it's because of the HEI module overheating, but it confused me. See the attached picture. Where can I mount the HEI module so that it stops overheating?? THis is like the 4th one.

after much pain and suffering (config errors), I upgraded to the latest. The advance table import what screwing up the megasquirt some how. It's running great with some additional settings. When I rev the engine is does so with flying colors except when I punch the throttle to the floor.. it chokes for a .5 sec and then revs up. I'll work on that.

You're connected to the wrong plug. One is a switch like stock and the other is variable, you're connected to the switch type and you need to be connected to the variable plug when connected to MS. I'll take a picture of mine if I can later tonight or tomorrow.

HORRIBLE NIGHT of tuning... I upgraded the code and I kept having "Config error" pop up. I finally realized that it only happened when I imported the spark table so I had to enter it manually. FIXED!!! I was a dumbass and didn't set the fidle to spark output A... it runs like a FREAKING CHARM!!! Thanks. 10.2.07 msq file Tim Gray.zip

I've GOT to have my Req_fuel wrong... 2.8L engine, 14.7 afr, 498cc injectors... what rf should that be? 6.4?

How do I turn the AE down? THe VE table is all out of wack. I'm going to tune tonight with the megalogviewer and see where that gets me I attached the constants, can you send me your vex file to tgray@graytechsoftware.com so that I can compare it to mine before tuning?

What MS are you running? I'm trying to understand why your afr table is 12x12 and mine is 8x8. Is that a embedded code issue? (I'm running 021s and going to upgrade soon)

Is it bad that I'm running code version 021s? How tough is it to upgrade to the 029q code?

Here is what my afr table looks like right now.. any suggestions?

Can you post up a jpeg of your afr table so that I can review it?I have a good idea of how everything from 2800 and right should look, but what afrs should I put on the left side of the table (low rpms and high kpa)

Has anyone tried using the Megalogviewer's VE analysis yet? I'm wondering how accurate it might be. Also, can anyone tell me if there a guide on tuning spark for the megasquirt?

I have finally gotten my tune to a spot that I'm much more comfortable. I have a few glitches to work out that I need help on: 1. At idle and at slight throttle in neutral my idle "skips" (periodically or unperiodically misses a cylinder.) My idles is also off my VE table (600-700 rpms at times). How can I make my tables start at a lower rpm? At these missed cylinder points it seems at though the BTDC advancement goes below the chart. See image 1 and 1.1. 2. My accel enrichments seem to drop my O2 down to 11-10. I believe I have it better than it was by dropping my accel enrichments at 8.0 and above. My major problem now is that my wideband seems to die during accel.. I can't figure out why? See image 2 and 3. 3. When starting from a stop, at lower rpms (2000 rpms or so), the engine seems very resistant, misfiring, etc. Then at some magical rpm (say 2800) the engine all of the sudden kicks in and has power. 4. Lastly, I've been tuning with wide band and checking spark plugs because I can't see the EGT gauge when driving. Spark plug 2 seems hot (mutlicolored curved prong). If I'm tuning with a friend, what EGT should I try to shoot for under hard accel? What A/F ratio should I try to shoot for at full accel and 8.0 psig boost? (147 map trailing off to about 134) How can I get the boost to stay constant and not trail off? I may have more questions later and I will clarify any questions. See signature for car.

i thought MSnS has an accel enrichment based off the TPS.. helps the rev out

solution: check to make sure that all injecotr wires are connected OH yeah, and it was a good excuse to by injector testors (Niode lights or something like that)

problem solved

About a day ago, I started missing cylinders... it would happen off and on, like I would have power, then very little, then power, etc. Eventually, it only misses the cylinders 1 and 5 of a 6 cylinder engine. I tested this by pulling spark plugs. From listening on the end of a screw driver, I noticed that those two cylinders are not firing their injectors. I have a 2 bank injector setup. The connectors on the injectors seem to be fine. I'm going to get a light that Mario said auto stores sell to see if the ECU is sending the signal. What could be happening? All the wires seem to be connected to the ecu, and I'm getting spark. Quick responses would be nice... I have to drive it daily.

I would first replace the wires, plugs, and cap on the dizzy

The car is running AMAZING.. except above 9 psi It likes to surge a little. It will grab power, and then it will feel restricted and then grab and then restrict, etc. I beleive this is a spark problem. any suggestions?

cool, thanks Mario