midnightzxt

Well, I'm trying now to fine tune the other sections of the megasquirt. I've listed them and would like help everywhere please: 1. Rev limiter. I've got a high flow cat on my car, so I can't use spark cut. What setting would you suggest for a stock zxt engine? 2. Accel bins. What numbers do you have here? I still get a sputter and choke when reving quickly. 3. Launch control.. has anyone effectively tried this? 4. Overboost projection.. has anyone also tried this? 5. Over-run settings. I'm not totally sure what this does.. i have: 1800 25 30 2 6. Anyone tries the anti-rev traction control? Would be interesting..

Well, we got a few of the bugs worked out. WHen I reve the engine quickly.. it stutters and chokes. I attached the most recent log and tune. What I would like help with on this one involves the cruising. I think the tune is too rich on the cruising. THe heavy throttle moments seem to be a good tune. What can I do to make the cruise better and have better gas mileage? megasquirt.zip datalog200510042117.zip

i would advise to set the sensor to LM-1 and other linear WB devices instead..

OK, we have finally gotten all the bugs worked out. here is the latest datalog with a DYI sVout O2 sensor. (make sure mslvv is calibrated for this). I'm looking for suggestions on tuning as much as possible. Tim datalog200509261024.zip

well, once again I can answer my own question: I'm an idiot Well, since I've got resistors, I can treat the PWM as I would a High impedence injector at 100% and 25.4 ms. Lucky me... Now if I could get the car start to acutally try this...

I'm confused on the constants. I have a set of low impedance injectors in the car. These injectors are on the resistor setup like the installation shows. Now, in the constants page on the installation guide, it says to set the PWM to 100% and 25.5 ms as if they were high impedence injectors. Why is this? If you install the flyback board, which is generally the same thing as the resistors? you set the PWM to 30% and 1 ms. Lastly, low impedence injectors according to the MS manual tuning guide, is supposed to be set to 75% and 1 ms and tuned from there. What is going on here? and what should I do?

pause your thoughts please.. my dad and i found out that the LC-1 ahs two outputs.. one is NB and one is WB.. we hooked up the NB. He will datalog once again today.

I have recently datalogged the car and I attached the file. I am using a LC-1 wb02 sensor, and i think the datalog is wierd.. I can't understand if it's a megatune problem or what? Either that, or I'm running incredibly rich ALL the time. Can someone PLEASE help me trouble shoot this?

i've always had luck with the RTV orange gasket sealer.

It's about time to fine tune my ECU. I have a concept on how to tune the fuel table very well, but my sprak knowledge is not so great. I do not have a knock sensor installed, so i can't calc that. Where would you guys start? SHould I tune the fuel table to 11.8:1 afr (it's a turbo). under full load for a good start, then start messing with spark? Should I mess with spark at all? NOTE: I'm using moby's fuel maps and spark maps right now. He has: stock replacement fuel pump from autozone stock FPR stock turbo 14psi boost GM HEI module for ignition with zxt coil 60mm 240sx TB SAAB 9000 intercooler 3 inch mandrel exhaust JSK fuel rail DSM 450cc injectors stock intake manifold, ported for 60mm TB DSM BOV if that matters IAT sensor before TB in j-pipe using stock air regulator to do fast idle control with coolant running through it JSK TB spacer to allow stock air regulator hookup I have: stock replacement fuel pump from autozone stock FPR stock turbo 14psi boost GM HEI module for ignition with zxt coil 60mm 240sx TB Subaru air to water intercooler from impreza 3 inch mandrel exhaust JSK fuel rail RX7 460cc injectors stock intake manifold, ported for 60mm TB DSM BOV if that matters IAT sensor before TB in j-pipe using stock air regulator to do fast idle control with coolant running through it TB spacer to allow stock air regulator hookup made by gray's garage

I have 160-180 running temps for boost and cruising with no water in the intercooler. My air temps are 86-96

could you please explain the red rpm line? It doesn't change that much over the tuning run, and it doesn't seem to get above 5000. Is that just your run? The TPS and MAP don't seem to match much of the rpm rise.

Hey tony, just so you know, I had the same problems you did with the 82 dizzy, but it was easy for me to fix. I haven't read all your problems you had posted, so i just want to know if you did this or not. When my idle sucked and i couldn't get advance, all i did was pull the oil pump under the engine and turn the shaft a gear or two advanced. Reinstalled it and then tried again, after about 3 tries, I had the gear in the right spot for a good idle, and everything is fine and dandy. I'm not sure how the 81 dizzy is, but i know the shaft is the same principle. Had you done this?

something I want to add.. the fan that goes over the valve cover is a nissan bandaid, not a complete fix.. there are better ways as have been suggested to fix the vaporlock problem if it is what it is.

That is what i was going to suggest.. vapor lock. Try letting it idle for about 2 min after you drive it, then turn it off and try again within a 1/2 hr

thanks guys, we still have to test it, but lots of work has been done in the last week. The HEI module has been attended to, the fuel rail has been tested and re-mounted (injector hoses), and we have just finished the new 3 inch exhaust. I have purchased and installed that wonderful LC-1 wo2 that you see on the ad above this post, and I must say I'm quite pleased with the service I recieved. Now, it's off to the dyno, and hopefully in august you will hear a number from me. Tim

I must say, congrats to you too. I hope you find it as pleasing as I have, and I promise you others will find it very interesting.

wanted to bring this to the top. It's about that time. I would like to know if we can collaborate and try to figure out how to get the sensor to work. What is required, and how to test it. I will be willing to test what I can. Tim

ok, i'll try that moby. One other thing. I have the HEI module mounted on the left front shock tower where the old wiring harness used to run for the injectors, etc. It is about 2-3 inches from the post turbo intake pipe. Should I, and where should I move it to for better results?

where would you suggest to put the filter? in the passenger compartment or in the engine bay?

I'm not exactly sure what is causing this, but I'm here looking for help. My MSnS-E has lost power or signal 3 times in the last month. This is a very new problem as it was fine for 4 months of running time. Here is the senorio: I'm driving at 75 mph and suddenly (while cruising, not necessarily accelerating) loose all power and there is no response under throttle. I pull over to the side, and the car will not start again. When the ECU turns on, the middle light (working as the spark signal) stays on. Then when I crank it flashes. Under normal operation, the middle light will stay off until cranking, and when the ecu turns off it will flash once (send a spark signal to discharge the coil?). I do not understand why it is doing this. Also, after about 20-30 minutes, the car will suddenly decide to work and then the car starts and you're off again. Any thoughts?

I've got to agree with Mario on this one. I bought my kit from Glen's garage and I believe that it was extremely easy to assemble with the way they labeled everything and they get a two thumbes up with the cnc machined box

brother sells a spacer kit if you're interested: http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage

pop off valve is pretty much useless above 11 psi.. the spring doesn't compress anymore to adjust it

"holy sh!t, holy f***, holy sh!t, we wont even look that the slow nissan in the other lane just ran a 14.67 and beat a ZO6. holy sh!t, holy f***." Sometimes you just want to punch some people...