motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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A friend at work told me to put a diode on the positive wire that feeds the coil. It isn't tied to megasquirt at all. Just a 12v switched out of the car harness that powers the coil 12v pos. I have not tried it yet. I am directly firing the coil negative from S5 of the relay board. Also I've toyed with this thing maybe 3 hours today. I have totally removed the wideband at the moment to isolate it to just the core of MS itself. I question the use of the relay board. I'm not sure If I should just yank it out and get another harness form DIY just wire it directly. That way the 12v feed to the injectors and the fuel pump aren't anywhere near close to the MS. My tach input is VERY stable. I've got some nice 2 strand shielded wiring on it. I have some left over I'm going to wire my IAT and CLT sensors with the 2 stranded shielded wiring but its very thin strand inside. I think it will be fine as long as I solder and heat shrink it well it should hold up to the vibration. I've got a suspicion of many things. Odd though. I've moved grounds around. Disconnected grounds. Added grounds. The problems just change what they are affecting but the one that stays consistent is battery voltage dips or spikes briefly followed by a reset. I can't go any further with this swap until I figure it out because I can't even get a data log of more than say 30 seconds. Its driving me NUTS!!! I've updated to the 3.2.4 firmware, well it was updated when it came back from DIY. Now that i'm using the usb connection tunerstudio randomly goes offline. I'm pondering snatching up another cheap laptop to just try a serial port again but am afraid that the MS will cook another one and i'll have 2 crappy laptops with a bad serial port. I'm determined to get this thing slayed. I bought a cheap stereo noise filter. I was going to wire it into the actual relay cable between the relay board and MS. Well being so scared of frying stuff I got my continuity tester out. The noise filter had 3 wires, 12v in, 12v out and ground. Touch 12v in to 12v out nice beep. I touched 12v out to ground and got a slight beep then nothing. Well I was scared so I hooked this thing up to a small sla battery i have a POP!! The capacitor in it popped and rolled smoke. I'm so glad I didn't hook this thing up to my MS. Hopefully my plug wires will be here this week. I could see the wires injecting noise into the coolant sensor as I'm using the stock head temp sensor for my coolant re calibrated to work with MS and its very close to all the spark plugs firing being right in the side of the cylinder head.
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The noise problem switches with just the battery hooked up. I took the belt off the alternator and disconnected the wiring to the alternator and ran a datalog. My signals for coolant and MAT all jump around badly when I run the car in that fashion, Hook the alternator back up and they stabilize, pretty much all signals then stabilize. Then I get voltage spikes, not many or huge. Just enough to cause a reset and go offline. I'm pretty certain its coming from the ignition circuit. I have magnacor wires on the way but with the holidays and new years shipping is greatly delayed apparently. I've probably got 30 hours in experimenting trying to kill the noise. Its the most frustrating part of MS in my opinion but everyone deals with it. I'll keep plugging away.
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Replaced alternator, cleaned all grounds, still have the issue. Waiting on my magnecor wires.Grrrrr holidays.
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The pipe wrench you've used did it slip? I would think that would be your saving grace here. A good pipe wrench should bite on that enough to wring it off given enough force is applied. If not maybe drill a hole through the nipple and insert a punch or something through the hole and hit it with a hammer.
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I sell hundreds of automotive batteries a month and have never seen one fail in a week unless a plate shorted internally. You have a charging system issue. Either your wiring is old and failing, connections are poor, loose belt, or you have an activation issue or bad alternator. I doubt its bad if it was recently replaced but it could be. To test is simple Take a voltmeter, test battery voltage with the car off. Then test voltage at the alternator stud. It should match battery voltage, if not you have voltage drop obviously inspect and repair wiring.. Also, test the T plug that plugs into the back of the alternator, one should have constant battery voltage, the other should get voltage with the key switch ON. If that checks out, check belts. Then start the car. Test battery voltage. You should see about 13.2-13.5 at idle at the battery if all the above test check out. If you don't you most likely have a bad alternator, that is if all above test are ok. Also, if you've verified all the above and all of it is 100 percent, turn all the accessories on, lights, wipers, blower motor, defrost, everything you can. Let the car run 5 minutes, then test the battery voltage with everything turned on and the car still running. It should be solid 13.2 or above. Ideally you want closer to 14 volts but some of these cars idle really low and the pulleys aren't small enough on the Hitachi style alternators IMO . Another good testing tool is the small tester sold by schumaker that plugs into a cigarette lighter that has a voltage display on it. Cheap, effective testing while driving, good for intermittent issues. I've never trust a guy at any of the big 3 to test a charging system correctly, they just aren't trained properly to. I'm sure some can do it right but not any I have tried to hire over the years. If you a have a battery shop or starter alternator rebuilder near you, they know how to check a system properly. Its what they thrive on and might be worth going to let them test it if you've exhausted all options.
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Seems to have a considerable amount of noise. Could be part of the problem. I saw one huge spike at about the 84 second mark it happened right after the battery voltage flickered to 13.5, a whole volt drop. Does the car act worse once its warmed up all the way? Also reading back through your posts you said your timing is stuck at 30 no matter what you do to the map. Have you checked your basic settings to make sure you don't have the fixed timing set in there as a static value? If you do, it won't matter what you change on the timing table.
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I've got an update. Not a successful one but an update. I had ordered a MSII 3.0 a while back. I got it assembled and loaded the firmware/ tune the same as my 3.57 board. I tried to see if it had as much of a reset issue as the 3.57 board but it responds the exact same way. I'm getting a nasty reset about 15-30 seconds after start up, its such a bad reset, I had to shut the car down, shut tunerstudio down, unplug the cable and then open tunerstudio back up and power up and it will come back online. Doesn't fail though about 15 seconds in I see either a nasty voltage spike or a huge amount of noise on the coolant/ air sensors. The MS box will not show online without a powercycle and shutting tunerstudio down and opening it back up. So in preparation I've broke down and ordered some magnacor wires and a new set of BPR6ES plugs. I've got a punch list of things to do in order including a new alternator (not a reman this time) We shall see how it goes. Meanwhile we got a first gen supra running on my second MS over the weekend. Went almost as smooth as a stock swap, a little tricky to get it to fire but once we got it it runs fantastic.No noise no resets. Got a decent tune using the VE analyze.. I'm TOTALLY jealous of how it turned out but happy to see a MS install go smooth after all of this trouble i've had. I'll keep plugging away at my Datsun. One day it will be right or i'll go broke trying.
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Good to know. I've taken the proper steps to protect myself if they are illegitimate. My bank called me shortly after and said they tried to run the card again. Glad I put a lock on the account. I'm probably going to take it a step further and have them re issue a new card with new card number. I don't really feel comfortable with the way that transaction went down.
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In my search for the right rear pinion flange I had a member send me an email with www.nissanpartszone.com. The site seems very good, nice parts breakdowns and information. I found my part, created an account and tried to check out. The site said it was secure, typically I notice the address bar turn green when on a secure payment site this one did not. It rejected my card. I called my bank. No balance, no payments due. I had a few things to get on ebay so I tried the same card during paypal checkout. Everything was fine with it. So I figured i'd try it one more time. I was very sure everything was input correctly in the checkout screen. Same rejection of the order at the end. Poking around on the site I found a 888 number for customer service and tried calling. It said this number is no longer in service. The live chat window on the website has sat here for probably about 30 minutes and no one has responded so I gave up. Called my bank and put a temporary lock on my card. I was curious if anyone has used them or ordered from them before with any success, I tried searching the site and didn't come up with any hits on the web url
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Well it ended up being the wrong flange. Bummer. I still need a pinion flange from a turbo manual car.
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I've sourced the rear pumpkin, pinion flange, and the mustache bar. Now just to tear it apart and install everything. Might need some axles but i have to find out what i'm working with yet. The rear isn't here yet.
Thanks for all the replys everyone!!!
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Very interesting regarding the noise reduction.
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Great topic. My lady is the reason i'm into these cars. I used to race motocross AMA District 7. I had a terrible accident a few years ago and had a knee replacement as a result at the ripe age of 28. I sold all my race quads, trailer and gear and didn't have anything to satisfy my hunger for tinkering. I built a few old relic quads, 20+ years old, restored them. About the third one I did she started coming home each week saying "I want that orange car sitting in Laurel". I blew her off for probably a good 4 months. Each week the same line. "I want that orange car in Laurel". I knew nothing about Datsun. Finally I cracked. I rode to Laurel with her on a Saturday to check out this car. It was a rusty beat up 73 240z. I looked it over, laughed and said "well the interior is in great shape, if you want it i'll buy it". So i did. We both worked on it for months. The brakes were frozen, the car wouldn't roll, the right quarter panel someone had taken a sawzaw and cut it out, the motor was locked up all in all a terrible Z. Anyone once else would use it for a parts car. I didn't do my homework. The body work hasn't been done but this car is now my favorite Z. It runs great. Looks like a rat rod but I drive it about 10k miles a year. She drives it whenever she can for work. I now have become so addicted i've bought another 73 240z and its orange. My girlfriend didn't want me to modify "her" car so I had to buy a second one to put a turbo motor in LOL. She to this day says that she didn't realize that I would become so obsessed with these cars. It filled my void from wrenching on my race quads every week trying to get ready for the next moto. She supports what I do and helps in the shop sometimes. She now knows alot more about cars (especially Datsuns) than the average person I would dare say. I am a very lucky guy to have a significant other that is supportive of my interests. Its give and take though. I have to be supportive of well shopping and baking and well all the other girly stuff. I'm thankful to have a great relationship. These cars have brought us both a lot of enjoyment. We go to the cruisin each month locally and take them to Ocean City in the summer. Its fun for us.
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That injector wiring should work ok, the stock system was batch fire. I'm not sure if that version ecu has the pulse width modulation for low impendence injectors which the stock L28ET injectors are low impendence. Definitely find out because if it doesn't you will need to wire some resistors on the 12v feed of the injectors.
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Are they worth buying or if you had to do it again would you go HID tecreatta?
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I was the one comparing 3.0 & 3.57. I don't like the 3.57 currently just because it just doesn't work well for me. I couldn't find info to set it up as info seems more abundant for the 3.0 and to this day ignition still doesn't follow the ignition map. It's just stuck at 30*. And it's the third megasquirt I've done so it should have been the easiest but was not the case. Also the box gets really hot and the engine starts cutting out after about a 20 mile drive. I've done everything to try to correct this. With my 3.0 that I assembled myself I can drive 80 miles to the dragstip, make 10 passes without much cooling time and drive 80 miles home and the car never misses a beat.
Thanks for the info and sorry for the mix up with what user posted. I'll let you know if I notice the same thing once i get my 3.0 assembled.
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create a zip folder on your desktop, just right click the desktop and create zip folder. copy your datalog file into the zip folder and upload the zip folder here. It won't let you upload just the file itself has to be a zip folder
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redzedturbo, i'm not trying to hijack this thread but what have you experienced between the 3.57 and the 3.0 that you like the 3.0 better other than being easier to mod or solder on? I own a 3.57 and am in the process of assembling a 3.0 i'm trying to compare the 2 myself? Might also give BenP an idea of what to purchase if he does decide to go with an MSII.
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When else would you ever go tubed though? I mean would you take a car you bought for a project and tube it? Just tube it. You know you want to.
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I have been slowly becoming more and more fond of this site and am starting to see why sides are drawn. You guys are much more welcoming and helpful. Plus the VQ swap has already been done over here (which saddens me as I am no longer unique, but now I can get pointers).
So many thanks from a humble Noob.
From what i've seen on this site, there isn't too many engine options that haven't bee done before. RB, SR VQ, ford v8 chevy v8. I've seen guys pondering putting VW diesel engines on some threads. I don't think i've seen a cummings swap yet but there is probably one out there. That is the nature of Hybridz.. Glad you got the rest of the bolts out. As far as moving the thread. I think you just start a new thread and possibly put the link to it as your ending post in this one would be my guess.
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Oh that thing is going to stick like glue. Awesome build!!!!
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Oh that thing is going to stick like glue. Awesome build!!!!
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Stupid is more like it. I can't believe I wasted his time on something like that. Ah well. Very much a noob still obviously. I usually learn the hard way it seems no matter what i'm dealing with.
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I've yet to see someone use a pertronix on an old points dristributor to trigger megasquirt on an L series. I've read about people doing it on other cars. I'm really thinking about trying it on this carbbed car I have to run just ignition. Any of you in Z land tried it?
MSII Extra serial 321. Have LC-1 Noise issues and settings in error help!
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Got an old weather radio out yesterday. It screams very loud near the alternator. That same noise carries into the relay board. Very consistent with RPM. So I figured i'd try to run the system Direct, not involving the 40 year old car harness at all. I ran battery positive to starter stud. Battery negative to the block, and the output of the alternator direct back to the starter stud. Didn't change anything with MS. I still have voltage dips and spikes. I unplugged everything I could, coolant, air temp sensor, wideband is out. I still get the voltage drop or spike on a data log. Hopefully the wires will be here this week and I can rule that out.