motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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As far as accel enrichment being off. 900% threshold means, the throttle position has to change 900% from its current position in order to trigger accel enrichment. With an enrichment of .01ms it does not really affect the pulse width of the injectors even if it does trigger it wouldn't really affect it. In addition typically when I feel the stumble, I see a leaner reading, if the enrichment was activating i would think i'd see the opposite. It is 100% TPS driven, however you have to really like I said floor the thing from dead idle to full throttle before it will even kick on. I'm not seeing any glitches on TPS and on data logs I never see the "active filter" display showing enrichment was triggered. My TPS is stable doesn't flutter or have any needle bouncing.
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I have turned it off. I don't see the LED come on for enrichment unless i'm at a dead idle and floor it really fast. Driving it normal, even spirited I don't ever see it come one unless i go from one position in throttle to full throttle very fast and even then it doesn't spike the pulse width or anything on the data log. I had it on testing during that datalog just playing. I really was trying everything I could think of that day. The weather was decent and I played around for a good 2 hours trying various settings. EGO has always been off. Tried with accel enrich on, different settings, and off. Played with voltage correction which did have the most affect on how it felt but still never got it smooth. Its been fun. Skirkland are you using a trigger wheel, stock cas wheel or a DIY wheel to get your rpm signal? Reason I ask because you can't physically see is actual engine timing (i know you experienced issues with timing not following tunerstudio). Timing jumping around would cause what I'm seeing/feeling but i recall yours being more locked at one degree or the other right?
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I was referring to taking a data log and then playing it back in megalogviewer on its VE analyze section. I should have been a more specific.
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Do you mean a screen shot of VE analyze after running the analysis? EGO step size is 0 so EGO is not affecting it. Accel enrichment is sett to %900 percent threshold so I REALLY have to mash the pedal pretty fast before it will even activate. Anything else i'm missing? I guess i'm not clear on what you mean by wideband correction? I don't see anything activating when it shouldn't on the log either looking at all the small data sets in the cells at the bottom of the log viewer.
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I don't have any leaks or smoke so i doubt the headgasket is bad but its possible i suppose. I'm just leaning towards fuel because of my situation. The injectors were off ebay. A full set of six, however I do not know the brand, do not know if they are matched. Just said they were for a turbo 280zx. The car, even last night when it was snowing here, fired up second crank without touching anything just turning the key so MS is right, start up and WUE is right. I did notice the car runs SMOOTH as can be during the WUE cycle, as soon as that LED goes off i hear the miss. Very strange. Not sure if its related to the drop in idle, or if its something quirky with MS or not. I will test compression again. Install new plugs and do plug readings for each cylinder. I'll let you guys know what I find. Might not be for a week or so the weather has been really crazy this week. At least the thing is back together
Jackstand races are over for now. -
Learned that the hard way a month or so ago. Matt, I do just want to say thank you. You guys have been really awesome in leading me in the right direction with things. The repairs to the boards etc. I've learned to diagnose and repair the injector drivers, the daughtercard tests, ignition outputs etc. I've installed a few of these things now and all have went smooth except my own car (which i'd rather have it that way) however it is a little frustrating at the same time.
I'm fighting a misfire and I don't really think its megasquirt anymore. I took a datalog and video of a run recently just to see how the AFR's on the LC1 gauge looked VS the MS datalog. I'm going to change injectors to some high impedence injectors and maybe rule out a bad injector. Its pretty close.
attached is the datalog when this video was taken, if you turn the sound up on the video for youtube you can hear the break up but AFR's stay within a safe range IMO but maybe i'm not seeing something. They are erratic though, not linear in any fashion. Neither is the car, it stumbles, stutters, especially out of boost. In boost I guess its blowing so much fuel it kind of masks the problem
The battery voltage is up down up down up down in areas, but its only about a volt fluctuation. Playing with battery correction on the injectors changes how it acts but doesn't eliminate the issue. I tried values from .001 up to.500, in incriments of about .025 each time. I even tried .800 at one point but it ran terrible. Seems to run its best at about .450 which seems high IMO.
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Man this was today? I would have rode there if I knew it was going on. That Z is CLEAN!
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I've also send an email regarding a rail. Hopefully will hear back.
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I installed the cap on the H1 boot . I have upped the table size now to a 16x16 and cut off my muffler so now its just a straight back exhaust. I've ran about 2 hours total of data logs and my VE analyze on hard will barely change my tune. My car runs ok, It will run through all the gears, boost and cruise but it isn't smooth at all. I still have a misfire. I'm convinced now that MS isn't my issue and am looking further into the basics because the datalogs look pretty good. On the hunt for a sender and gauge to monitor fuel pressure in the car while driving. Also going to get my injectors flow tested somewhere. They were new when I got them but that doesn't mean they are right. I had an issue with an injector driver in this swap and maybe it fried an injector who knows. Datalogs look ok, the battery voltage stutters a total of .8 volts when I get the misfire but its from 14.1-13.4 or so. The misfire is causing the AFR to fluctuate to the lean side. Thats why my AFR readings look so horrible.(heart monitor) The RPM changes pretty consistent with the stutter so I'm sure the alternators just reacting to the engine speed i think is why my battery voltage fluctuates like it does. I don't get any resets. I don't lose logs. The fluctuations of the AFR directly coorelate with the misfire. Not every bump, but when you see a full change of 1 on the afr it happened.
2 questions
A regular old style coil like i'm using My understanding is they either work or they don't, there really isn't much in between? Running I think 3.0 on dwell if memory serves correct.
Is there any way an injector can be bad but seem to work ok in certain areas? I thought I remember seeing a post about a guy with a bad injector. The car ran ok but had problems at certain RPM i think it was in boost, the only way he could tell it had an issue was on a scope. I've also read posts where a guy swore MS was his problem for weeks and it ended up being a bad seal on the injector letting air into the mixture past the throttle body. Some thing is wrong with this set up. It acts better in boost than under 100kpa but still stutters some in boost. Does not detonate but stutters. I have 2 MS boxes and they all act the same so It isn't MS. I've replaced most everything there is to replace before I installed the engine but something isn't playing icen and i'm really running out of ideas. I've sprayed starting fluid all over the manifold to test for vacuum leaks with no change in rpm. i've pulled the connectors off of each injector and the rpm does change. I've listened to hear them clicking with a stethoscope and they call click away so they are firing. Not sure which direction to head. I pondered air bubbles in the fuel, but i would think i'd see a leak. I've made sure the pick up feed tube is tight and all fittings are tight going to the pump just in case.
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Are you running batch fire or alternating. Also are both banks settings the same if you are using two banks.
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You are probably going to need machine work. "worth saving" isn't really something anyone can decide for you. If its worth it to you is what you have to figure out. Motors are fairly cheap. Your cheapest option to get rolling will be finding a decent running motor. The kits to rebuild are around 400-500 bare minimum without machine work. I know there are plenty of L series NA motors out there for much cheaper. To give you an example. The motor currently in my first Z is a $300 ebay motor and i've flogged the crap out of it for the past 5 years. It still runs strong. Whatever you end up doing, save the rods. People use the L24 rods for some builds.
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I like your comparison. I have always loved a David and Goliath story when it comes to cars people have built. This is one great example. Its what many of us thrive on with building our cars. The weight savings is where its at. When I raced motocross, a lot of the guys had a formula they lived by and it was every 7lbs of weight reduction = 1hp gain. So the biggest hp gains we ever achieved as riders was dieting and losing weight as riders and losing weight on the qauds. I'm not sure what the formula is for cars and even if that formula was right for a race bike but it was the cheapest/easiest way to support the simple laws of physics.
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Was this something that happened over night, or a gradual issue? Did you just purchase the car? Did the car sit for an extended period of time? Sounds like when you are pressing the clutch pedal it isn't disengaging the clutch enough. Slave cylinder, or master cylinder issues could be the culprit, could be a cracked clutch fork there are many possibilities. Its possible the clutch is toast but we need some more information than it just won't go into gear.
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Is the dash cracked?
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I haven't yet on this board. I upped the required fuel yesterday up into the 13 range and it ran better but not great, I feel comfortable with it enough that i'm going to try to take it to work this week, maybe Friday. I challenged my boss who is a DC electrical genius that he couldn't fix it and he laughed at me, said he'd fix it in 20 minutes, grounds are the problem he is convinced. We shall see how it works out. I hope it does. Here's another datalog, some serious spikes and dips on it. The reset, i stalled it out turning the car around. I'm not quite used to this new clutch yet.
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Its been about 2 1/2 months since i've posted anything on this issue. I installed a new clutch, transmission, rear suspension, r200 rear and rear t3 arms in the mean time. I finally buttoned all of it up and started the car and drove it and the verdict is I still have noise. Flat out. I own a few MS2 boards. All work fine both on stims and all functions work when installed in the car and they all yield the same results for the most part. My wiring must be my issue because it isn't these boards. So my thoughts are to re do the entire harness and lose the relay board. My data logs look terrible (attached) The only thing I'm going to try first off is my rpm input wire. Currently I have the factory 4 pin pigtail that is plugged into the distributor on the distributor. I cannibalized a stock harness that had lots of issue and cut the plug off of it about 16 inches back from the plug so I'd have plenty of wire. I then spliced shielded cable to the plug so i could quickly remove it if i needed too. So my thoughts are two fold. Either ditch the relay board and use just a pre made harness from DIY and do my own relays for fuel pump, injectors and coil or attempt to wire my distributor right from the distributor all the way to the relay board. I'm not sure what I'll try fist but I'll post up the results. I don't get any resets, my car stayed connected to tunerstudio the entire time and never cut out. It did however feel very weak, unstable and shuttered quite a bit. Never backfired though. This was all on a V3.0 MS2 no frills, just basic fuel and spark with a bip directly driving the coil and using the PWM
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Just how much of a gambling man are you? Good luck!!
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Most any vehicle on the road with the gear reduction starter only needs about 500-550 cca. I use Deka batteries. They seem to hold up well and are made right in PA group 34 size.
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Very interesting, i'd love to see some picks of the mock up so keep us posted. I just got rear lca's from TTT they are awesome quality and fit perfectly so i can only imagine what it will turn out like when you are done. Wheel options get alot broader when you can fit s13 wheels and TTT just came out with billet 5 lug hubs that accept stock s30 bearings so when you do the front 5 lug conversion you will be golden.
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I've started using group 34's due to the height. Good luck
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Could i just take a screenshot of all my tuning tables open? I cant seem to get the msq to upload
You have to place your current MSQ in a "zip" folder and then upload the zip folder. Just right click on your desktop. Create new zip folder. Drag your MSQ into that folder and upload it here.
Did you get a new board too? Previously in the thread it appeared your board had a burnt spot on Q16 underneath?
Get that msq uploaded and maybe a data log cranking the car a few seconds.
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http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110054-external-walbro-fuel-pump-issues-not-priming-right/
I had a very similar issue an it was the regulator that failed
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Love those cars. Tony i thinks its really cool you share these pics. You get to see some really cool cars and we live vicariously through you so keep them coming. Do you have any sites you upload photos on other than Hybridz?
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Awesome just to have the opportunity to see some of those shops. Good luck with your build. Keep us posted how the import of the car goes. Sounds cool.
Jackstand races are over for now.
Fuel Injector Upgrades/Swap
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
I just ordered a set of high impedence 400cc injectors from oside tirger. Hopefully will have them installed in the next week or two. I've searched but can't seem to find any of the voltage correction settings for MS yet but when i do i'll post up how they work out. I got them in the standard barbed style. The guy was very helpful. I'm sending my original injectors back for flow testing. He also said if I decided to go with a oring style rail later on he could change them up. He charges $7 a piece to test them on the flow bench which seems reasonable enough to me because my local napa can do them but charge 125 a set!!