motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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How old is the master cylinder?
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Looks good man.
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They're asking 24k, and it has a dash cap? Seriously?
I had the same thought but man thats a nice shell. I wonder if it sells.
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Well. Asking for how many LBS of boost isn't the right equation. A car with a bigger turbo can run 7lbs of boost and be just as fast as your car running 15lbs of boost. Its all about VOLUME of air, not the psi. A bigger turbo set at 7lbs can flow as much air as a smaller turbo set at 15lbs. Read up some on turbo efficiency. I by no means am an expert but know enough that if people ask how many pounds of boost i run i know they really don't understand turbos fully. Its safer to run lower boost levels, not to mention much cooler. I wouldn't push the stock set up too far without EMS. Its already at the edge now.
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Weight
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Buy a NOID light at autozone or somewhere. The sets are like 20-30 bucks. They are just a small light to plug on the injector leads to see if they are firing. Sounds like the injectors aren't firing.
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Vote for a 240 dash. At least the way its made if they didn't like the carbon look they could paint it. I'm sure some would wonder why you would paint a CF part just because guys like the look of CF but i've done it many times with CF hoods and front splitters. Some cars it looks ok with bare CF with clear shot on it but some cars it just screams rice IMO. Cool they are considering it though. 240 dashes are much harder to find then the 280 style dash in decent shape.
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I don't know off hand. Best way I can think to find out yourself is the way I tell people when measure how much cable they need is to take some string. Cut the lengths for each wire off the distributor then measure each length of string. Someone out there has the info just not sure how easy it will be to find.
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Definitely agree with Magnecor. They quieted quite a few things down for me.
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No one mentioned an old 240sx hatch either. They are partially what lead me into the Datsun world. I logged 100k miles in a pignose hatch and loved that car. RWD, fairly cheap. Just beware they are also part of that "ricer fanboy" culture but i've seen many examples that were executed well with tasteful mods. They have some particular rust issues to be aware of, lower parts of the strut towers, some in the rear quaters, similar to our Z's. I like the way they handle, they are just not going to be as raw of a car as an S30. Nothing will replace the S30, in my mind, nothing really comes even remotely close but at least the 240sx borrows some of the lineage.
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Drive an FRS RWD platform. Nimble little things
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Cool car. See you should be going to Ocean City this weekend with it. I'm sure it will be the only one down there
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Rear diff and axles and mustache bar. If its a manual trans i'd keep the transmission and driveshaft as well. Pull as many odds and ends screws, nuts, bolts and fasteners as you can. Lots of guys will strip all the wiring that way when they patch or repair harnesses they have the factory striped right color wires on hand to patch in. I'm a pack rat. When I abandon something i strip all I can.
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Well have fun with it. I run 20 degrees fixed at the moment and it works. Not as efficient but the car runs good.
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Get some stock turbo injectors. With a stock turbo system, 90 psi, and 370cc injectors you should be blowing raw fuel out the tail pipe.
Stock injectors and a stock FPR should be a good starting point. You have a bunch of wrongness going on.
LOL Very true. I really shouldn't have said anything about resistors. Just trying to give him an idea of how the system works to deliver fuel and I think he wants a "DO THIS" type answer and didn't read into the "MAY or MAY NOT" work which leans towards NOT
Why mega squirt and not other aftermarket unit I think is more tunable and easy to install.
I went with Megasquirt because it was a more affordable option that many others have tried and had success with. I've never had any experience with any of the other systems but i'm sure they work well. I swapped an L28ET and never could get the stock system to work right. It took me a LONG time to get MS to work right but now that it does I have no regrets.
I really wouldn't be surprised if this whole thread goes to the shed NewZed
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The CHTS sensor has a curve to it depending on temperature listed in the FSM. This was pulled from the MS install section just outlining the resistence curve of the stock sensor
The Calibration values to use the CHTS are as follows:
14F=9K
68F=2.5K
122F=.84K
So when you unplug your temp sensor the ECU things its FREEZING COLD outside and dumps massive fuel, hence your very rich idle with CHTS unplugged. This is what I was saying about using resistors to fool the ECU into what reading it needs to supply the outcome you want. I am in no way experienced with it with the stock system, I never got my car to run right on the stock ECU thats why I went with MS. I just understand how it works enough from running Megasquirt. These are the values of the stock sensor at those temperature values. So at 14 degrees the sensor if you put an ohm meter on it will have 9k ohms of resistence. at 68 degrees the ohm meter will read 2.5k ohms. So you need to figure out how much resistence you need to make your ECU deliver the right fuel so you could go buy an assorted pack of resistors and try splicing them in one of the wires to the CHTS on one lead and experiment increasing the resistance. Its the only solution I can think of that "MAY" work. Its a cheap enough thing to try. Let us know what you find out. Other than that. I mean at the point you are with the build. I'd go with a programmable ECU. If the car was running ok before its probably a corroded wire or bad CHTS sensor possibly a bad ecu with a lean drift. I know you said you changed it but I went through 3 on my build and all 3 had different resistence readings at ambient temp which can have a huge outcome of how the car runs being the stock ECU is that dependant on the CHTS. Good luck.
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U can use the 153 tooth. They seem to be more common but some SBC's had a the 168 i think is the number. The larger flywheel won't fit in some of the generations of transmissions. I believe you want a 9 tooth type starter. On your block are your bolt holes for the starter staggered or are the straight across from eachother on that block?
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http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/spareports.html
Why couldn't you just set the value to 0 or 1 for the POWER ON VALUE depending on what you have it set now. That way when you turn your key on during cold temp it turns on immedietly instead of being off and waiting for the temp to rise enough to turn it on. Then you might be able to troubleshoot a little further.
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Just keep an eye on your temps during ramp runs and make sure everything is in tip top shape. Look everything over very well between runs. You'll be good. Have fun.
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Voltmeter check it
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I really appreciate the reply but ended up throwing in the towel on the stock system and have gone with Megasquirt 2. I noticed with the threads that have links instead of embedding the information in this site it gets lost in the shuffle of cyberspace. Servers move, domains move people delete pages etc. Hopefully you can give some insight to someone else out there that is struggling like I was about a year ago.
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Download the WINRAR to unpack zipped folders from here http://ninite.com/
That should get you into the FSM. You are going to need the FSM for the 82 trust me. Even then its still a fun process to get spark, and injector pulse. Part of the injector pulse is tied to the FP relay so you will need to get an understanding of the wiring you are transplanting. DO NOT HOOK 12V ANYWHERE until you know for a FACT with 100% certainty that your wiring is right.
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Any way you can snap some pictures of your set up and specifically the wiring to the set up. I run a pertronix on my one Z, its also a 73 and my tach works fine. it bounces slightly at 5500 rpm but all other ranges it works fine.
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What year is your Z?
LS motor is hard on the old chassis
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
I have experienced quite of few of the same problems you are seeing and am at a much lower power level than your car. I periodically put it up on the lift and re tighten everything. I've safety wired a few things just so I wouldn't loose a fastener if it did come loose that far. I mainly see my axle bolts come loose which is scary and the last time I put some red loctite on them so we shall see. Some day i'll spring for CV's but not this week.