motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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Not quite sure if your injectors would even open at the right speed at 90lbs of fuel pressure but it might be worth looking into. Also might want to think about an aftermarket fuel management system to replace the stock ECU. Upping fuel pressure to compensate for the lack of engine management isn't the ideal set up for what you are doing.
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NewZed is dead on about removing the cable. That is a really easy way to damage an alternator new or old. Get a cheap voltmeter and probe around. I would be willing to bet you have an activation issue.
Take a voltmeter. Test for 12v at the main charge battery stud on the back of the alternator. It should read 12.6 volts, or battery voltage.
Key off test the T plug. The top should have 12v with key OFF. The bottom should be nothing no reading. Now turn the key ON, take a reading at the bottom of the plug it should read 12v with key on..
This is all that is needed for these alternators to work. A main battery wire, 2 other points of power. one switched one constant. If either one doesn't the alternator will not activate and charge. Its possible it would charge without a sense wire but most the time you would know it because it would overcharge and you'd smell the battery bubbling
Good luck.
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^^^ I have been contacted by ROCKY( they monitor this site)>>>>>>>>>>>>> they want info on my Z, but told them that at this moment I will consider a super nice vintage 510 two door/with period mods as trade PLUS $$.$$$$
Lee, I'd send some pics just to see what they would offer. You know what was involved in building that car and round about total build cost, I'm very curious what figure they come back with. Just don't let anyone know where she sleeps
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Good news is, it can only get better
I would focus on getting EMS on that car as many others have said. Then try to ditch the distributor so you can control spark timing with a coil pack. You'll probably see alot of power just getting the spark timing right with that stroke. -
I like my T-5 for now with the power i'm running. It does have the Hurst short shifter on it so I didn't have to modify the console with mine. I love how it shifts. Just had to replace the overly dried out hard leather shift boot. Read up. You might have to modify the transmission cross member but i'm not certain on a 75. You made out pretty good though price wise. Good luck with the build.
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I'm interested in how it turns out either way.
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250rwhp is not cheap staying NA. First step is to buy some turbo stuff and put it on. I need to go do a dyno session on my new turbo swap. All stock but damn it feels so much faster.
I'm actually looking into a megasquirt system now as I've been on and off the phone with matt at DIY about everything needed, how to wire stuff up etc.
You've actually talked to Matt or anyone at DIY instead of the email ping pong? Really?
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Port the head, cam it, bigger turbo, skip the paint.
Remember, YOU ASKED!
I second that!!!
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53170 remy 10si works but you have to fabricate a bracket. Not much else is bolt on other than the 14592's (again remy part #) Some guys use the 280zx hitachi units. (not 1 wire) but only requires 1 key switch activation wire with a diode, and a battery + wire. Jump the sense to the battery stud, i run it on both my Z's 14592 remy units and barely tax it running an electric pump, lights, fan, fuel injection. Be careful with true 1 wire setups if you run an AGM battery. I run many on the bench every week new out of the box that charge at 15.1 and higher initially when they activate and hang there for a good 3 minutes sometimes (both china and domestic remans). Its just the way many of the regulators work on those 1 wire units. That voltage will cook an AGM battery in no time at all, and also will cause a lead acid lots of times to release fluid due to bubbling so much during the initial activation/replenish cycle after starting especially on towards end of cycle batteries. Food for thought. AGM's don't like anything over 14.6
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I had to post a video so you knew it happened. Billy i've got those MS2 daughtercards in a box, just haven't shipped them yet but I will probably by the end of the week.
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It was an 82 distributor with stock wheel. I replaced it with the DIY trigger optical wheel and it works great.
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I sure hope so. This thing is SICK now. Love it. Runs smooth as a car you'd buy on a lot. Started right up this morning without touching the pedal. Warmed up nice and drove to work. I'm amazed. I knew these MS boxes could run this way. No jitter not a stumble one. Ready to enjoy the summer now.
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I can put an end to a 5 month long thread. This car is now as smooth as a normal vehicle. Starts great, Idles great. It pulls hard in all RPM ranges and totally rips on top end. We put in the high impedence injectors. Still had a miss. So I put in the DIY trigger wheel. Set it to a fixed 20 degrees and tuned my VE's. Another key thing was getting a giga-wire brand usb to serial adapter. It stays online all the time. Car runs smooth from low grumpy lugs WOT all the way up WOT pulls. I'm blown away how good it runs and needless to say am VERY relieved. It had to be the spark timing/ trigger angles. I emphasize trigger angles because it really came down to that trigger wheel and timing. Very happy I can focus on creature comforts and maintenance for awhile now. Thanks for everyone's input and help.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alSXDNewVQ8
This is what fuel pressure looks like. I'm not sure it should fluctuate that much. FP might be set a little high but I wanted to see what it ran like. At least I can see what it's doing now.
edited to fix messed up link. Sorry about that I did it on my phone in the shop
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Yeah its always something. I'm not sure what route to really go at this point. I know what 2 cylinders I've got an issue on though which helps alot I guess.
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Strange thing is idle quality does change pulling the plug wires on every cylinder. Idle quality also changes on every cylinder pulling the injector plugs. So they are firing, both injectors and plugs, just not right I guess. I'm really afraid this is going to turn into many many more hours of wrench time. I'm going to try to get the fittings for a leak down test from work. Maybe try it this weekend.
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Not sure whether you could or would want adopt one or not but wasn't' the stock 280zx injector cooling fan temp sensor in the heater hose with a 2 wire set up? Might be able to use an old stock one in the hose easily to turn the fan on? If not use a 280zx style thermostat housing with all the spots on it you could tap quite a few sensors in if needed.
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Yes, the original wiring diagrams you are looking at are for using a the DB37 harness. You only have 1 ground, 1 switched power, and one constant power to the relay board. The relay harness gets the power it needs to feed the ECU from the relay board. Make sure you run your sensor wires and sensor returns back to the relay board in the appropriate spots. The relay board really eliminates a lot of gray area as far as the wiring goes. Good luck. I'm still fighting a misfire with my install. Not sure what it is yet but hopefully yours will fire up and run right after a little tinkering. Good luck.
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You'll have to be specific and maybe post a picture so we can help you, at the very least let us know which marks on the board you are referring too. Pretty much everything with MS has a specific place to solder each lead or will tell you in the manual if polarity doesn't or does matter. The steps you are doing depend alot on what you are doing with ignition too.
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you could. The injector wiring shown on the DIY site powers 2 banks of 3 injectors only. So 2 wires to 3 injector positives, 2 wires to the other 3 injector positives, That took up the entire 4 slot 12v feed.. I don't think powering the distributor would hurt in either of those 4 positive slots. Its only an LED so it doesn't draw much I would just be concerned with noise but you might be ok. Read about noise. You probably will have it at some point but maybe you'll get lucky.
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Relay board gives you 4 12v pins for whatever you need. Look on the DIY write up
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pulled plugs and did compression test today. All cylinders between 127-131 psi across the board. 1-2-3 plugs look good 4 is black, 5 good, 6 is black. so 4 and 6 are dark, not sure what it is. #6 was a dark oily plug but compression was better than 5 which was the nice chocolate milk colored plug. Injectors are here but I have not installed them yet. I'm waiting on a regulator and gauge and am going to. I drove it a bit today and am so annoyed with the way it runs. Its crying for more work. Still have that misfire stutter. Put new plugs in it, same response. Going to re adjust the valves and re do compression tests but probably not today.
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I might turn it off. I just kind of wanted it as a fail safe in case temps got that high once it warms up here. I'll turn it off for now. If I see the temps get too high it will be a good excuse to add an intercooler I guess
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well, that is a good question actually. I noticed MAT correction was coming on at points in time. I haven't researched MAT correction enough to fully understand what I should do with it. MAT temps i've never seen anything over 120. I understand it changes timing if MAT temps get too high or whatever you want to set it at but that was for me to get it to stop turning on. I could see it on a datalog originally, setting it to that i've never seen it come on now as of yet.
280zxturbo lean out on wide open throttle 370injectors stock electronics
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by motomanmike
Well, there are a few that theorize about the stock ECU's leaning out over time. Not sure if its your issue or not but there are some threads on it on this site. Check all your injector wiring at the ECU and also, did the car run better or worse with the original AFM and what was the reasoning for replacing it? The head temp sensor can play a big role in the mistune on these cars too. I've read threads about using various resistors on inputs to the ecu to fool it into thinking it was running hotter or colder, getting more or less air etc etc, whatever the ecu uses to decide what to deliver at what time is what they manipulate whether it be with modifying the part or fooling the part into the right reading. Food for thought. BRAAP seems to have nailed what you can and can't do with the stock AFM in one of his very long detailed informative threads about the stock EFI system. They take some time to read but they are a wealth of knowledge about the intakes, the afm's and the various other L series fuel injection set ups.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/