KnightoftheRound

I was thinking that exact same thing, to be honest.

Here is what I found out today: I took one of my gears, along with my dat-comp operating sleeve and the modified 240Z 4-speed fork I got from Sam. As you can see, the Porsche ring (left), has a smaller groove than the Datsun one (right), so the only way to know was to try to stick the fork on. Which ended in fail because the groove is too small. I was recommended to just have the groove machined out, as its a very minimal clearance issue. Now, I haven't attempted to order the new operating sleeves (what Porsche calls them), but Don showed me the company he got them from last time he needed one, and its $220 or so EACH. The transmission to source them from is a "Porsche 901 5-speed", he didn't give me a year, and I had forgotten to ask, if it matters. The Porsche ring fits nice and tightly over the gears though, which is nice. Next step is to get new op. sleeves and fix the bent shift rod and put it back together and see how it works.

I would take it off your hands if you lived closer. I am going back to see Don Schnieder tomorrow with my new shift fork, and a couple gears to confirm fitment. Sorry for no updates, I have been busy tearing down and stripping paint off my new 240Z.

I don't know the brand, but to add to what has already been said, the Kamei front lip/air dam looks pretty much just like that, only without the little useless slits in the corners.

Thanks for the info guys. Because you can't actually SEE that part of the car (I'm just going for a nice DD), I have decided to just sand blast the area, treat it with POR15, fiberglass it all up, and weld in a new slam panel that I purchased from Z-Specialties.

The rear of the 240Z I just bought is looking pretty nasty. I basically need the slam panel, the area the tail lights bolt to, and the area directly below that. I called up Motorsport Auto and they told me they haven't had that piece in a year, I am not entirely sure what that part is technically called in the first place, searching tail light panel always gets me the pieces that go OVER the tails. Anyone know where to source one of these now? This piece here, I got this off Four Ways Engineering's site, located in Englad. Unfortunately shipping would kill it.

I told Sam about this, and he said that the grooves in the selector rings wear out commonly on those transmissions. Only way to know for SURE is to wait for the fork hes sending me, go back, and see how it fits into the PORSCHE ring. I haven't checked on the synchros themselves yet, I will bring a couple of the gears and synchros with me next time I go back to Don and see what he can tell me.

Sent Sam some money for a modified 4 speed fork, haven't tried to bend the rod back yet. To put a rest to the Porsche synchro "coupler" thing (the piece the fork goes over, and slides over the synchros to engage gears), I took my GOOD ring to Abacus Racing here in Virginia Beach, they have an EXCELLENT exotic car repair team, and when I went in that section of the shop, all they HAD were old British, German, and Italian cars, engines out, transmission apart, etc, including a full blown race setup 911, and a GORGEOUS 964 Turbo...anyways I spoke to the mechanic there, and he said that they were the same ring, but he didn't have one to compare with at the time. From there, I was sent Don Schneider of German Autowerks, also here in Virginia Beach, who DID had some of the rings lying around for matching purposes. We compared the rings and he confirmed for me that the INNER part of the ring with the teeth was identical, and it really was. The GROOVE that the fork fits into on the other hand is NARROWER, but he said that any good, reputable machine shop SHOULD be able to machine the groove out larger without much trouble, especially if you have the fork or ring that came out of it for the shop to look at. The transmission parts would be from a early-mid 70s Porsche, but I have forgotten the kind of car, I have to go back up to see him when I get the fork in to compare some more things, but this is a good start! The only downside is that the couplers are $225 each new through him, and are probably even MORE expensive through a dealer, but are in fact available.

Here are some things I would ask myself in regards to the Z31 swap: Run ECU diagnostics? Wiring correct? CAS disk in upside down? CHTS good? All sensors test good and/or adjusted correctly? Especially MAF. Correct o2 sensor (87Tturbo uses Titania type IIRC.) Correct injectors? Fuel Pressure good? My car ran like crap under load, with good fuel pressure, but the pump I guess couldn't keep up, found that my power wire loop connector at the pump was hanging on by like 2-3 threads! Grounds good? Connections to all sensors and ECU good? Air leaks? If the pin 9/start signal wire gets constant 12v, your car will run like s***, this is the WHOLE CAUSE that my Z31 swap ran like crap, and I found it out AFTER I swapped everything back stock. If this wire gets constant 12v, you will have injectors sticking open longer than they should, and the timing advance won't work, you will get a CAS code that will never go away, and run rich enough to blow clouds of smoke if you rev it. So check some of that stuff out, get an FSM, and go at it. Or convert back stock like me. I learned enough about my car with the Z31 swap that I was able to make my stock ECCS run damned perfect.

AFAIK, they fit the same, with the exception of having different fittings and nipples for vacuum ports and such.

Just called Courtesy Nissan. Gave them the part number for the ring, they said its NLA and there is no dealer in their registry with one in stock. Still going to go to a Porsche dealer and let them look at it.

What exactly is Nissan Comp now? Nismo? Or something totally different?

You can't still get them unfortunately, Riley Curtis, who was extremely polite, helpful, and KNOWLEDGEABLE sadly informed me of this. He has ONE that he can get his hands on, lying in the parts department there, but its $238 for ONE and I need TWO. So I need to ask for a mid 70s Porsche 911 "915" transmission coupler (what its called in the Datsun manuals)? Thanks Jon!

Well, the parts guy in Lynchburg has in stock the coupling I need...its 238 bucks, but it must be done. Sam can get me a fork, so all thats needed to do it straighten the rod, and take the rest of it apart to inspect for any more hidden damage.

Sorry JMort, I haven't found any of those posts unfortunately. I've searched here, Zcar.com, and google up down and sideways on this transmission. Would love to find a confirmation on the Porsche rings if they can be bough from the dealer still (although they probably cost on hell of a lot).

There are no markings that I can tell on it, other than a number "#21227" stamped into the tail housing, and the number "7Z22620" stamped into the bell housing. Would also like to know any other identifying markings. I just know what it is due to being in the family awhile, we even have the flanged drive shaft that goes with it still.

Thanks 310Z. I spoke with Sam Neave today. He informed me that the fork is NLA period, and that the couplings and synchros are somewhat obtainable, albeit hard to get. He recommended me to the parts manager of Lynchburg Nissan here in VA, named Riley Curtis. He said that he has been able to source parts for the transmissions he overhauls from old stock in warehouses or some such. He told me that the fork can be made from the shift fork of a 240Z or 510 4 speed, he said that they are the correct width, but the "mouth" part needs to be machined out to fit. Keeping my fingers crossed for Tuesday when I speak with Riley I guess.

Thanks Titanium, I ordered a Nissan Motorsports Schematic Catalog that is supposed to have a blown up view of many of their vintage parts, including the comp. transmissions. I also PM'd TonyD on Zcar.com to ask him about it, but he hasn't replied. The transmission looks awfully similar to the Datsun 2000 Roadster, Servo-syncho boxes that utilize steel synchros, at least the picture I have with all the parts numbers for the 2000R tranny looks pretty damned close.

Hey, I have this Datsun Competition close ratio 5-speed with the direct drive 5th gear, and need a couple parts to repair it with. It needs the first/second shift rod and fork, all four synchros, and both couplings, I took pictures of the needed parts. "Coupling" Synchos Rod and Fork Any help sourcing parts is greatly appreciated, I had heard that the Datsun 2000 Roadster 5-speeds were very similar.

More pics, used some elec tape to hide the gap to get a better idea of installed.

The fact that injector wire 1 and 2, and 5 and 6 were backwards probably didn't help either...as I noticed today.

I have thought about foam block, neat idea on the vinyl. Like I said, I would only throw it on there just to see how I like it, that's why something non permanent is a must. If anything I don't even need to hook it up, would like to just put it on, put everything back together, and see how it looks assembled.

Hey all, friend of mine gave me boxes of Z32 stuff he didn't need as he sold his TT a long time ago, one of the things was this Skyline R33 GTS-T cluster. The wiring isn't a problem figuring out. I threw it in and straightened it out to see how it would look, and there is a good 1" gap from the bottom of the cluster to the dash. What would someone go about doing to correct this? Something not permanent, going to just throw it in and wire it up to see how I like it, and wire it so converting back is easy.

No it doesn't. It a yellow wire (solid yellow IIRC) on the ignition harness plug about a foot down the harness from the ECU. This wire is for a start signal (key in start position). Check the wire diagram for the 82-83 ZXT, its an 8 pin pentagonal connector. From my understanding, this signal tells the ECU that the car is cranking over, and it (not sure which) either enriches the mixture, or fires all injectors at once to get it started. Also heard it does this because the engine has not yet received a signal from the CAS to know the crank position, and therefore it doesn't know what injector to fire. Cutting the power to that wire definitely leaned it out when it was running, and as I said, cracking open the AFM revealed that it was both leaned out 5 or 6 teeth, and one of the spade connectors going to the actual connector on the AFM (on the inside) was just barely hanging on. Now it runs perfect. The manual I got from the Xenon site doesn't seem to show that connector for the ignition harness, but the one on AllData does, as well as the Nissan/Datsun 1983 cars wire diagram book I have. Was hoping someone with more knowledge about this ECCS would chime in and give us the scoop on what the start signal actually does.

After solving the rich running issue with pin 9/start signal, I started to delve into why the car ran so damned lean. Taking the cap off the AFM revealed a wire barely hanging on, and the spring turned back about 5-6 teeth leaner than stock, the guy that did this was courteous enough to mark where it originally was. Put the gear back stock, put the wire back where it belongs, and were back in business. Car pulls stupid hard now. Thanks for all the views to those who looked. I certainly have a bad habit of making topics and figuring my own problems out before anyone helps. At least its resource for anyone else.