KnightoftheRound

I think he is implying that may have to use a spacer no matter what due to the back of the face design on the wheel. The caliper possibly hitting the back of the wheel. Therefore you need a spacer to space the wheel farther from the caliper so it clears. In which case, it would likely be that the wheel will hit regardless of what size and offset you choose. This is currently worrying me on my car, if the back of the face of my wheels will clear the rear disc conversion. I already have -40 offset on a 15x10. I really don't have a lot of room left to go farther out!

Cheap rotary, even a harbor freight one, with 80 grit sanding pads from your local autobody/paint supply store. That's what I used to strip my car down to bare metal. I'm not sure I paid 20 bucks for the box of 80 grit pads I have. I think the rotary itself was like $25 They can't really be used on the underside or engine bay effectively though. I sanded my engine bay down by either heavy sandpaper and hand, or grinder with 3M roloc pads. The underside is such a huge PITA there isn't really an easy way to do it that I know of. I just finished recoating my underside tonight, took a couple months of working on it regularly to get it done.

IMO it looks weird WITHOUT the rear bumper, flares or not, that is to say not BAD, just like its missing something. Typing 240ZG in google images returns 7 240Zs with flares and rear bumpers on the first page alone.

On my 240Z the reverse switch are the red/red back. The other 2 wires down there were for the neutral switch. (Only because I just recently tried turning the engine with the key and wouldn't until I figured it out and crossed the green wires)

Never seen a T5. My 82 was auto and NA when I bought it, swapped it manual the year I got it, and swapped it L28ET a few years later but the engine came out of an auto so I used my 83 5 speed. I would imagine the transmission end of the driveshaft is very different on the BW. Would assume you need a driveshaft for the manual 280ZXT. Would also have to put on the clutch master on the fire wall, hang the pedal assembly, and run the clutch line that from the master to the slave cylinder at the trans. Would also need a flywheel and clutch, as well as the bushing on the inside of the crankshaft. Hope I got all that right and didn't leave anything out, it was awhile ago last I did it. There is another similar topic farther down the first page with some info as well.

Had a parts 240Z lying on the property for the last 14 or so years. Got around to taking it apart now that I have my 70 240Z. Among things removed were R200 parts (which the PO bought new from Nissan, still had parts stickers on them), european tail lamps, momo steering wheel, crane ignition and some minor misc things. Diff was nothing special being a normal 280z 3.54, but I'm not complainin', I think only 100 bucks was paid for it.

Good find! Your story is almost exactly like mine with my 70 240Z! Sat in a garage for 31 years (1980 inspection sticker) Paid $800 for it from the second owner. It's one of the cleanest, and definitely the straightest S30 I have ever seen. Enjoy the ride!

I also have 225/50/15 on my SSRs. They are 15x10 -40, fit mostly fine with just crappy cut stock springs on my 82 280ZX, Can't say it rode awesome though, lol.. Wheels are on my 70 240Z now.

Not Professors, but similar.

Hey all, I am working on the engine bay of my project 240Z, and am about done with my wire tuck job, but most of the stuff in the firewall have old, rotting rubber grommets, or some of my routing will require grommets as well. Anyone point me in the direction of where to get rubber wire harness grommets? I have googled around for awhile, but can't find a solid place. Harbor Freight sells a 180 piece kit that I might check out as its only like 5 bucks, but only goes up to 1" holes. Thanks for any help. -Daniel

If you absolutely must raise it, don't raise it more than an inch. It looks awesome just like it is, just don't hit/run over things and go slow up inclined parking lot entrances and avoid speed bumps! Drivin' low isn't that hard. Hope my 240Z turns out even HALF that nice looking.

Saw the car at Hall Nissan (I work in parts). They were loading a GTR onto the truck the Z was on IIRC. Nice car!

I use the low amp race version of the Pertronix "Flamethrower" ignitor along with a Z31 coil. I have the gap set to .045 and the car runs awesome. It's a relatively stock L28ET though, only other mods being exhaust, intercooler and higher exhaust.

Neato, like I said, I have two, although one is completely trashed, I have been wondering the same thing about having it recovered.

I too wanna see the wheel, I have two momo steering wheels, both from 240Zs, with Datsun horn buttons like the one shown above. One is fairly new, and the other is eaten up from sitting in a car that a racoon was living in. Here is a picture of the good one, although really really dirty, its in good shape.

Kamei is the ONLY one I have ever liked. But good luck ever finding one...as a matter of fact if you find one, sell it to me! I smashed mine in three pieces on a mound of ice after all the snow last year. Ignore my friends hideous 240SX, it was in a bad time in its life, its quite awesome now.

Figured I would throw this up, everyone has probably seen my 280ZXT with the SSR Longchamp XR-4s. That and like 3 other cars have been assimilated into my 70 240Z, and with that, the wheels now reside on it. For those that don't remember, they are 15x9.5/10 -33/-40. Heres my surely moving along work in progress with its donated feets:

My car is lowered...what like 3 inches from stock? I don't scrape anything speed bumps, I used to scrape my air-dam on things, but it is off for repairs. A stock 280ZX sits hilariously high up, so I too find it hard to believe unless the shocks are blown.

The way the manual from Xenon puts it, makes no damned sense and seems to confuse a lot of people (At least, I have read this same issue before with that test). It would be like if you took a wire, stuck one pin on the multimeter to one end of the wire, and the other pin to a ground to get a resistance, which you can't Leave it plugged in, or test it at the sensor.

IMO Clean up the Works and remove that horrible blue paint and then see how they look on your car before you go off buying the knock-off wheels that are Rotas. You may be surprised!

^ I too would like to know this.

What Skib said^ A few screws and out it comes, unplug the couple cables in the back, and its out.

Not sure if there is a difference between years, but I can sure take my 82ZX's gauge cluster out without removing the dash in a matter of minutes.

I messed around with my SSRs today to see if they would fit my new 240Z, I tell you what, there is no way I would ever go back to stock wheels! They look like freakin peg legs on my car in comparison! Fortunately it looks like after a good 3" drop, the SSRs are gonna fit my 240Z pretty damn good.

Well, Virginia has super garbage roads that are never taken care of, and my 280ZX has 3" clearance at the frame rails. I only ever scrape on speed bumps, so if I avoid speed bumps, I'm good. I say 3" is plenty as long as your a little careful about going over things, especially since your in So. Cal, I can imagine the roads are pretty nice there compared to my state which has a habit of tearing off oil pans of lowered cars on the interstate. EDIT: And by lowered cars, I mean cars with even less clearance than 3".