KnightoftheRound

New Info: Had the Pin 9 (start signal wire, gets power when cranking) attached to a switched 12v, noticed when this power was cut, the engine went up from approx 750-800rpm to 1000, and ran smoother. When this power is cut, it appears to run lean, but to the point where it tends to stutter under load. What does the "start signal" do? Does it richen the mixture during cranking to fire easier or something?

Assuming your talking about that 240Z with the Compomotive wheels on it? I love that car, I think it looks amazing, even though its rusty and ratty. FWIW I have 225/50/15s on my 15x10s.

Hey, Since I swapped my 280zx back to the stock l28ET ECCS, I have been having a problem with it running rich. The AFM failed the first test in the manual (Multimeter + probe to pin 33, - to pin 26, resistance is supposed to be approx 280-400 ohm, I get 199 consistently. It passes all other tests in including insulation and air temp sensor (AFAIK, It was in the correct range for the outside temp at the time, without any run-time on car to heat it up at all) Also, for the flap test, I know it says it can be anything BUT 0 and infinite ohms, but is there any kind of scaling when the flap is opening? The fully open ohm reading was lower than the reading somewhere in the middle of opening. The CHTS also appears to be in spec...when the manual says to put one probe to pin 23, and the other pin to a ground, I am assuming this means with the ECU connector still attached to the ECU...otherwise I get no reading. Regardless, the CHTS is new, FPR is new and fuel pressure is fine, and the O2 is new, albeit its a Z31 3-wire o2 sensor, but its still the same type as a 280ZXT one. Are there any other things that can cause that ECCS to run rich? Or would I be pretty safe to assume its my AFM considering the test failure? EDIT: Still open to suggestions, but I found the Blues Tech Tips page that goes through how to adjust the AFM, might try that in the mean time.

Good luck! 16s are big enough for me. Curious about how much each set will cost, considering they already cost close to 3k shipped for regular ones.

He meant because you implied that 280ZXs were pigs. I love my 280ZX, it was my first car, and it and I have gone through a lot together...sounds like homo-erotic, but its true. First wreck, prom....other things....swapped auto to 5-speed, swapped turbo, rebuilt the L28ET, blew the head overheating it when the lower rad hose burst, removed head AGAIN to install an N42 manifold. I paid about as much as a new set of RS-Watanabe Rs would cost...$2600. Saw a set on another forum...I think it was a Toyota AE/4AG forum, sell for 2800 in similar condition. It is not too terrifically difficult to find SSR XR4s, but to find them in the more outrageous sizes requires some looking.

^ Anything larger than 16s on a S30-S130 looks silly anyway, unless your into your car looking like a Hotwheels or Matchbox car. imo.

Hes right, RS Watanabe only makes the R wheels in 16 at largest diameter. Which is fine for me, because IMO anything above 16" wheels looks like s*** on anything pre-Z31. Get 16x9 -13 and 16x9.5 -19. Those are the lowest offsets available from Watanabe usually. They have a custom order form though with 17s selectable on the drop down arrow.. you should give them a call, they have a California based phone number on their site. Those are the sizes this Z has: http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0711_1970_datsun_240z/index.html

I thought I posted in here before, guess not. Here are my SSR Longchamp XR4 wheels. They are 15x9.5 -33 and 15x10 -40 225/50/15 on all 4. Sorry for some of the crappy pictures, some were taken with my old G1, the others were taken with my HD2, and the G1 has far better camera software.

Thanks anyway. I am actually converting back to the stock ECCS since it ran way better that way in my case. I have spent way too much time and money on the Z31 swap for the last 4 months trying to make it run right to no success. Simply isn't worth it in my case, since the car is usually my DD.

Mods can delete. Items bought.

Thanks for the reply, curious as to why the part numbers are different. Any thoughts on the rest of my issues?

Hey all, I finally have all error codes gone except CAS (Even after a new CAS unit, new harness with shielding), but I run really damned rich. It kind-of started after I installed a set of 280cc Airtex OEM replacements from Dr. Injector. The ad said they were OEM replacement, even though I was curious about the 280cc flow rate. (Aren't stock 260cc?) I had the rail off today, and pressurized it, and noticed a LOT of fuel coming out of 2 of the injectors, and 2 more showed leakage of sorts shortly after. SO I need new injectors apparently, and due to my terrible luck with aftermarket replacements, I am just going to get a set of new ones from my work. But my question is, should I get 85 300ZXT injectors (What my ECU supposedly is), or L28ET injectors? The part numbers are different in the computer, but I was under the impression that it was the same injector? If anyone can recall my original horror story with the Z31 ECCS swap here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/85908-z31-ecu-swap-is-kicking-my-ass-has-anyone-had-this-problem/page__p__814539__hl__z31%20ecu%20swap__fromsearch__1entry814539 You will remember that I was finally able to get my car idling and running good with the injector resistor pack installed (whereas the guide calls for removing it), but my car would not run worth a damn with them bypassed, would hardly idle unless the CHTS was unplugged. Interestingly though, since I got those Airtex injectors I thought I would bypass the dropping resistors again and see if it would run that way now, but nope, it didn't. What I DID notice in doing this, was that it barely idled or just stalled right out with them bypassed..but if I removed just ONE injector connector, ANY one, it would idle better, but unplug a second and it dies? No idea what the hell is going on with that, but its only with the resistors bypassed. But yeah, back to the original question, what injectors should I get? OR should I just go back to stock ECCS? (getting VERY close to this, the Z31 swap isn't worth the last 4 months of frustration trying to get it running right, but I don't want to admit defeat either)

I am having a hell of a time, and a fit with the wire harness on my Z31 ECU swapped 280ZX. Looking for a early year 300ZX Turbo wire harness, the ECU I am using is an 85 Turbo ECU. Located in Virginia Beach, 23452.

Update 5: CAS code still lives. Fabbed up a way to mount a Fuel Temp Sensor at the bracket where the FPR is. (The sensor does not come in contact with fuel anyways) Code 41 Fuel Temp Sensor is now gone. Code came back again strangely, but the pin is hardly secure in the connector. Probably going to source a Z31 from the junk yard and just splice on 3 Z31 ECU connectors to finally rid myself of the horrible S130T ones. Start signal code went away after I spliced in a sw/12v from the ignition switch harness into the pin 9 (for start signal). I am beginning to think more and more my harness is just totally F-ed, cause that made my code go away for that, permanently. Car seems to run obscenely rich. Plugs are black as night. Update 6: Got Z31 ECU plugs and cut and soldered to splice on the new connectors onto the 280ZX Turbo harness. All problems seeminly gone now. Error codes now do not seem to intermittently come back. Car revs great, drives smooth as glass, and does not sputter nor hesitate at any RPM. Have not checked to see if computer registers o2 sensor yet, runs great though!

Update: Knock sensor code went away on accident when only one side of the sensor was plugged in, plugging in the other bullet connector to the sensor makes the code come back. Weird. Need to run the few FSM tests to see if its internally shorted or if its a harness problem. Took distributor apart, cleaned the disk, cleaned the CAS, cleaned all the contacts and grounds, and code remains. Car still does not alter timing back or forth. Ran ECU ground and power tests per the manual, as well as harness tests for the CAS also per the manual, and all check out. All power connections get battery voltage as they should and all grounds read close to 0 ohms (.02 on the 2 scale, though touching the pins together gives me .02 so I assume its good) Starting to lean towards CAS being bad. Will keep updated and posted. If anything maybe it will help someone else with my problems in the future. Update 2: Nope, new CAS didn't do a damned thing. Update 3: Got desperate and as a last resort, I cut the CAS plug off the ECU harness and ran the wires to the appropriate pins or ground, and spliced the B/W wire that bridges many different sensors at the ECU. Turned car on, no more code! Although the FSM harness test showed no issue, I guess you can't always be sure. Made a new harness going directly from ECU to CAS. Code gone, but still doesn't appear to alter timing. Update 4: Code 11 - Crank Angle Sensor came back with new CAS and self-made harness.

Now that the slight misfire I had is gone, I want to move to the damned computer codes my Z31 swap is getting and WONT GO AWAY! Car gets Code 11 - Crank Angle Sensor, Code 34 - Detonation Sensor, Code 24 - Neutral Switch, Code 41 - Fuel Temp Sensor, and whatever the code is for Start Signal. Getting a Z31 FPR w/Fuel Temp Sensor to replace my L28ET one, mostly to get rid of the code, and the fuel pressure to vacuum reading is out of spec with a clean return line, new hoses and filter. (My car pulls 20-22hg vacuum, and has 32psi fuel pressure, where it should read 26-28 at 20hg according to manual) That leaves me with Code 11 and Code 34 to be the last 2 things I can imagine would affect running. CAS is a unit from a 85 Turbo, harness has continuity...car RUNS, cleaned disk last time it was out, could the unit itself just be faulty? I cut and extended the wires for the TPS, CAS, and injectors to run them between the valve cover and fuel rail to kinda clean it up, but all the wires are right..I supposed I should double check my splices though. No idea whats going on with the Det. Sensor, unless its just bad. Harness gets continuity...computer doesn't seem to alter timing at all though. All connections are clean and free of corrosion. Anyone else have problems with their swap like this? I have been battling these things since I did the swap and its really making me regret doing the Z31 swap at all.

Used Caig Deoxit D5 on injector, ECU, and all sensor connectors. Ran a LOT smoother, no more dying when wiggling connectors. Replaced plugs with brand new NISSAN branded NGK plugs package pregapped to .038, runs like a dream. Thanks for the tip Ineptitude! Sensor codes remain, but that is an issue and topic for another day. Case closed for now.

Thanks for some responses guys. Haven't gotten to it yet due to rain, but I am also going to double-check all my ignition splices. (after all, its a L28ET Swap, Z31 ECU swap, AND Z31 coil/transistor swap, all of which require some splices) So far: I put the one MAF on the car that slightly quieted the miss down. I still can't adjust it as I cannot get the lights indicating 02 response on the ECU to blink. Voltage from 02 (Checked at ECU connector while running) on my multimeter does not bounce around like I think it would, BUT if you lean it out by creating a vacuum leak, voltage drops, although, if you pull the hose on the FPR, voltage doesn't increase (Running richer), which I find strange. Otherwise it hands around .5v. Timing was actually at 17ish BTDC, adjusted to 20. Computer still does NOT alter timing back and forth depending on conditions. Computer still shoots CAS and Det. Sensor codes. (This actually bothers me more than the misfire, considering the car pulls great and has NO issues pegging the speedo) Will look at those ECU pins, although I did the plug/unplug a bunch of times trick, but Ill double check. I might head up to the local Z junk yard and swap a couple ECUS for giggles. Like I said, if you wiggle the ECU connectors, the car will run WORSE, OR sometimes almost die. It never actually gets better than its current state though. Perhaps I should grab some Z31 ECU connectors and splice them in sometime as well. Let me hear what you guys have to say, Ill check up on these things as soon as I can.

Hey all, I have some problems with my 82 280ZX that are bothering me that I would like to clear up, things that I can't figure out. Car is a 82 with 81 L28ET, 83 Dizzy with Z31 ECCS. Replaced all 6 injectors with ones from Dr. Injector, new OEM plugs gapped to .038. Car has slight misfire at idle and through RPM range, very noticeable if you hold it at various RPMs. It is not cylinder specific, pulling injector connectors on every cylinder does not alter the idle that much. Spark is a good white spark, Z31 Ignitor, Z31 coil, Taylor plug wires, new cap and rotor. Also would like to add, that bringing down the out of the box gap to .038 reduced the misfire quite a bit. Have not checked fuel pressure yet. Pulling vacuum line off FPR does not do anything positive to idle, if anything it sounds like it gets a little worse. Timing is set to about 20btdc. I have no air leaks nor fuel leaks, FPR is new as well as filter. Computer shows codes for Crank Angle Sensor, Fuel Temp Sensor, AC, Neutral Switch, and Start Signal, and detonation sensor. CAS and disk is one from a known well running but sitting 85T, with no damage or dirt on disc, have not ruled it out as a possible malfunctioning unit yet. Haven't checked on throttle switch yet but I can't imagine it would affect idle smoothness or anything above 2k rpm. Tried 5 different Z31 MAFs I have in my garage, all tested OK to FSM procedure, no change in running with any except one of them, this one was the only one with the adjuster screw exposed. Now, I know if the CAS was malfunctioning I would definitely see a change in operation...if you have the key on and rotate the distributor you can hear the injectors fire, but considering the problem was damned near gone with that ONE MAF, it makes me wonder if the MAF needs adjustment. I have NEVER been able to get the little lights to flash for the 02 sensor operation, I have held the RPMS at a steady 2-2.2k rpms for 2 minutes up to 4 minutes straight and never gotten them to start blinking. Multimeter test at the ECU prong for 02 while running shows voltage from 02, 02 sensor is also a brand new Nissan unit. CHTS is new as well, and also tests within spec. All grounds are clean and free of corrosion, battery ground cable is new. Not sure what to look for here...another weird thing is that the Z31 ECCS swap always calls from bypassing the dropping resistors with ECUS pre-88. My car would NOT run WITHOUT the dropping resistors after warm up, with my ECU being a Nissan remanned unit from an 85T car. Really at a loss, not sure what to look for here this time, or what to rule out. I have searched and read other similar issues of idle misfires, but I don't recall seeing any on a Z31 ecu. Any thoughts? EDIT:Checked harness continuity between ECU and CAS, MAF, o2 sensor, det sensor, and verified TPS function, TPS code is gone. Rechecked timing. Interesting to note that I do not see any timing advance upon rev up, or timing retard on rev up with det sensor disconnected. Still unable to get ECU to shoot 02 sensor blinks. Car has obvious stutter under load, and miss under no load at around 2.8-3k rpm.

Yaw. Looks like a Kaemi like Sonethirty said. I have one on my S130

What shop was that? (I live in Virginia)

Don't you mean side of head? O_o The Cylinder Head Temp Sensor? That will give a world of misery if its malfunctioning.

And such why I have 225/50/15 on my 15x10" wheels. =/

"Coilover" today generally refers to the shock/spring setup with adjustable ride height and spring preload. Would love to have a set for my S130 so I can get off crappy cut springs.

I think it needs to be lowered like 4 inches!