jas280z

Second the slide hammer, or weld the thread end of a bolt to the metal, and then pull on the head with a pair of vise grips or something (this is what I would do, as I have a welder, but not a slide hammer). Either way it looks like that is something that is going to take some work to get perfect.

Thank you very much, it certainly was a lot of work, but all worth it now. I would love to be able to drop an RB26 in it in the future like you... don't think I have quite enough enthu$ia$m to tackle that for quite a few years though.

I'm not from the area (Buffalo) but if you have a Tractor Supply Co. near you that is always a good place to go. Not sure if they will fill it if it is not leased from them though.

Yeah, 16 inches.

Between my Dad and I we have a 2008 350z, 1983 280zx, a 1978 280z (mine), and we had a 198(6?) 300zx and 1994 300zxtt. Once you get bit by the Z bug, you are never quite cured.

Some pictures of the ZCCR Jonathan Krenzer Memorial All Japanese Car Show. It was really cool to see the Bob Sharp cars, and #13. Some pictures from the 2010 ZCCR Fall Finger Lakes Tour. Great time!

It might be hard to find an s30 that is for sale with a good sr20 or vq35 swap. Are you willing to travel all over the country, or do you want to stay near Pittsburgh? A car that fits your description will be much easier to find if you are willing to travel. The most important thing to consider is that you should look over the car with a fine tooth comb, and since you say that you have no mechanical skills you should find someone who does, preferably a mechanic or someone very familiar with Zs to look over the car as well. Your budget seems about right to me, but I don't have much knowledge about the pricing of car with competent engine swaps. If you do find a car that you want to purchase, just make sure that the engine swap was well done, to a professional level, and that it REALLY doesn't have any rust. For 10+ grand you should be able to buy a completely rust free car. Good Luck!

Volvo 210? http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=volvo+b10+218#hl=en&expIds=17259,25217,25907,26285,26512&sugexp=ldymls&tok=g9Jzwx7uLXerPmi5FHhvHw&xhr=t&q=volvo+210&cp=8&pf=p&sclient=psy&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=volvo+21&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=1de331493393b8ab

I was there just last year. I really like thermo, but the rest of those classes take dedication. Just keep your head down and get through the semester, you'll be very happy once you do. As long as you don't decide to start your MBA while still a senior in M.E., then you'll hate yourself like I do now.

The problem I've heard is that it can actually trap moisture behind it and cause rust that way. Here is a post from when I was considering the same thing. I think there is a picture of a white z with it as well. http://www.zcar.com/forums/883023/rhino-lining

Either the tide was out, or you're Jesus.

We started stripping it and tackling body work in late October or early November. Painting was done the weekend of May 16. We finally got it on the road in late June. It wasn't until early August though that it was to the point where I could count on it to be reliable whenever I need it. So all in all the restoration took the better part of a year, and still has a few things to be done (rear suspension and BRE spook to name a few).

I would definitely contact insurance, and I probably would have gotten an accident report too. She may seem nice now, but for all you know she already contacted her insurance saying you stopped halfway into the intersection and then reversed into her. When dealing with something like this you should collect as much evidence as possible, so it doesn't come back to bite you.

I added some Vinyl Emblems from 1 tuff z, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/92784-s30-z-emblems-in-vinyl/ . I am very happy with their quality and appearance! Datsun Decal on rear window: Datsun Emblem: Fairlady Emblem (proof): Whole Back: Datsun Decal Again:

Is he sitting on a propane tank in that last video?

I love watching where these threads go. I really do hope that they officially accept the term. I have never used it before, but if it becomes a unit of measurement I'll probably work hella into my vocabulary.

Very nice looking car. What color blue is that? Your car and mine could be twins!

I took my Z down to the local Nissan dealership today, and they were nice enough to pull a blue 370z out of the showroom for a couple pics! And my favorite:

Looks like it is coming along nicely. Pictures of what happened to your last car made me cringe. At least you didn't lose the will.

Results! I located the 's' terminal on the starter and disconnected it. Sure enough doing so allows the pump to run, but keeps the injectors from firing as well as the engine from turning over. I took my Z ou for a good 10 mile ride to get it nice and warm. Normally after a ride like that on a warm (85ish degree) day like today it would encounter the starting problem. I parked the car when I got home and unplugged the 's' terminal, as I have yet to hard wire in the switch. I went back out 7 minutes later, after leaving the hood down and doing nothing to aid the heat escaping the engine. I held the key at the start position for about 5 second (5 buzzes from the door ajar buzzer), then I reconnected the 's' terminal. When I tried to start it after reconnecting the terminal it started right up. To further test the solution I pulled the car into the garage and lt it sit for another 5 minutes, as it was still quite hot. I tried to start it and it encountered the problem. I then removed the terminal again, and held the key at start for about 10 seconds, and reconnected the terminal. Again it started, it stumbled a bit this time, but it cleared up within a second. I wish I had known to do this several weeks ago when the heat problem left me stranded and caused me to miss a track day at Watkins Glen. Oh well, live and learn. I would like to send out one last thank you to everyone who helped me with this problem, especially Tony D.

Thank you very much for the description Tony, your help is much appreciated. I hope that you do not mind that I PM'ed you as well, I knew that your input would be very helpful but wasn't sure if you would see my post.

Tennesseejed, that is a good idea, I forgot that the AFM was what controlled the fuel pump being on or off when the key is at "on." I would just need to figure out a way to run the wire for the switch into the interior of the car. I wouldn't want to have to pop the hood to flip the switch every time I want to do a hot start, and I also wouldn't want to just jump the pins and eliminate the switch in the AFM. And thank you for pointing out that I have a '78, it is in my sig but I forgot to restate it in my post. I am still interested in the original question as well, so any help on it is still appreciated. Edit: It appears that on a '78 the fuel pump will only run in the "on" position if the alternator is operating and the oil pressure switch is open. So it seems that a switch across those two terminals won't work unfortunately.

I am trying to wire in a way to prime my fuel rail on my 280z to combat hard hot starting problems. Tony D said "Priming pulse will take care of 99.999% of the starting problem. Just bypass your 's' terminal with a spring loaded switch so you can 'crank' the car for a couple seconds without the starter turning. 3 to 5 seconds usually does it. This is VERY simple to fix, and not that big a deal." I will admit that I am a noob when it comes to electrical systems, so I am not 100% sure where to put the switch. Looking at the wiring diagram I see that the wire that leads from the "s" terminal splits and one side heads towards the CSV and ECU, while the other heads to the Fuek Pump Control Relay. If I am correct in my thinking I believe the switch should go after the split, on the side heading towards the ECU/CSV. I believe this would allow the fuel pump, and only the fuel pump, to get power when the key is turned to Start and the switch is activated. Does anyone know if this is correct, or would the injectors still fire if I put the switch there? Thanks for any help. P.S. I was unsure if this post was more appropriate here or in the Ignition Electrical section. If the mods feel it belongs in the Electrical section please move it. Thanks again, any help is very much appreciated.

According to what I have read, "... the check valve and FPR should hold pressue ROCK STEADY OVERNIGHT AT LEAST -TonyD" Here is the original post, http://www.zcar.com/forums/883144/vapor-lock-heat-soak-voodoo-whatever-you-wanna-call-it . If I understand the problem correctly the vaporization problem happens because some of the pressure is escaping, allowing the remaining fuel to vaporize. This remaining fuel remains at a somewhat steady pressure, making it appear as if 30 odd pounds of liquid pressure exist, when it is really vapor causing that pressure. It is a return style system, but it appears as if the FPR is designed to bleed off only enough pressure to keep the rail at a designated pressure. Once the car is shut off it should not bleed off any more pressure under normal circumstances, as there should be no vacuum going to it. Again this is my understanding of the problem, which may or may not be correct. Also it seems that if there is not a priming of the pump before the injectors fire the sudden loss of additional pressure can cause a flash vaporization of the entire rail screwing you even more. I am fairly certain that the pump priming was not instituted until the 280zx came out, and may be compounding my problems. Thank you for your help, this problem seems to be relatively common, but unfortunately commonly misunderstood as well. I have been digging through quite a few old posts to see what I can learn about it and its many names. Thank you for the compliment on my car as well, it has taken a LOT of work to get to this point, hopefully only a few more issues to iron out until it is "finished" (it never really will be though ).

Let me just make sure I am making the correct plan to solve this problem. First off I need to find where I am losing pressure overnight, even when heat soak is not a issue. Secondly I need to make a way to put a priming pulse on my 280z, as "If you don't have that priming pulse to drive out any heat soaked fuel as SOON as the injectors fire the first time, the WHOLE RAIL can flash vaporise from the sudden drop in fuel pressure, and then you're screwed! EVEN IF FUEL PRESSURE IS CORRECT! -TonyD" Hopefully rectifying these issues will allow me to avoid future heat related fuel vaporization. Thank you for all the help, I was having a hard time understanding the mechanics of the problem, but I think I understand it now.