pparaska

Dan, you have to do a double flare or the tubing will not seal and it will split.

Wow! That is Sweet! I bet the MG purists just about die when they see it - cool . I'd love to hear more about it - weight, weight distribution, chassis mods, brake and suspension mods. Welcome, you'll fit in here REAL well .

John, I agree, a cast crank should be fine for a street motor. Cast is usually more ductile anyway and tha can make it live longer, so Bill Jenkins used to say.

Ross, there's interference (or very close to interference in the two patterns. This is why Scottie went to the welded setup.

Looking killer! That thing has "sell it as a kit" all over it. How pricey are those turbos? Is there a junkyard substitute that would work? BTW, I gotta know - what's that yellow thing on the left of the first pic - one of your toys? And your kid is pretty cool about letting you use the Barbie dresser as a prop for the header too . [ July 16, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

I have one of the 1st gen Eclipse GSXs. Turbo AWD. The sales brochure says something like 3200 lbs. I believe that - it's no feather. Yeah, with a tweaked motor, the AWD Eclipse/Talon/old-Laser can get into the 9s without gutting. The engines are pretty nice, but watch that balance and timing belt. The early 5spd in these cars (before 94) was really notchy. I got mine finally switched to a 94 trans after MANY rebuilds in the Mitsu dealerships. I'd love to see that swap.

Yeah, I've had people tell me that the thing was getting pushed down at highway speeds. The neat thing about the Urethane one is that it can take some beating (I've busted one hitting a tire retread at speed though). One night I somehow left the car out of gear and no parking brake on. Luckily the car rolled forward into the curb in the lot and not backward into the lot and hit another car Anyway I saw it on the way to school that morning (that is a clue this was a long time ago ) and it was bent WAY back under the car. It recovered some initially, but but the end of the day crept back to original form. A fiber glass one would have been in shards.

It's 87.5 (April?) through 88.

But Scottie, it's just a low tech pushrod motor, what are you getting all excited about? After all, we all know that it if isn't overhead cam with 4 valves per cylinder, and some form of VTEC, it isn't worth having in any vehicle.

I agree - Urethane (short for polyurethane). Funny you mention the aero deformity thing. I just bought a 4 foot length of 1.5"x1.5" AL angle, 1/8" thick to bolt every 6 inches or so underneath the top of the center section of my Xenon Urethane 240Z air dam, for just this reason. I plan on putting a center mount on it as well.

I've heard from some knowledgeable people that the hi volume pump is NOT the hot ticket, but the high pressure one. And for just the reason Davy stated.

280ZX Turbo halfshaft outer joint to the 240-280Z companion flange.

1) Any redrilling and tapping must be done with excellent accuracy as to the bolt circle. 2) A bottom tap would be needed. 3) Paul Hansen in NZ? bought spacers to go into the 12mm carrier holes that snugly fit the 10mm bolts. I'd go with #3 in a heartbeat.

One set for me.

A short write up and picture of this latch shuffle is at: ttp://members.home.net/pparaska/Enginemount.htm

John, sorry to hear that. Jeesh, I heard of cars getting totalled like that too many times.

Matt, that must be very frustrating to do all that work twice, enduring the pain while doing it, and it still leaks. Damn. Your experience with the KD tool is the same as mine - not very good. When you look into the line, is the center of the flare in the center of the tubing (concentric) or offset a bit? That's what happened to every flare that I made with that tool that leaked. It seemed more leaked than didn't. One of the reasons I have SS hard lines in my car is that I tried making my own steel lines, and had similar results. So I measured each line I had made and had www.classictubes.com make them up with the fittings I needed already flare, each to length. If I were to do it again, I'd have them made from steel thouqh - the stainless is tougher and it takes more tightening to get them to seal. Sorry this is going so badly. How about buying lines that are premade to standard lengths (a bit longer than each of your lines) and using coils in them to take up the extra length?

Ed Isky is no one I'd discount. I agree that the 6" rod is more like a "fad" thing than maybe is needed, and for the street at 6000rpm max, probably not worth any improvement. The only thing that intrigues me is octane tolerance increases that I've heard about from larger rod/stroke ratios.

Cool, sounds like you took the first ride!

No, the dome is not across the entire piston top. At the quench side of the chamber you'd have a huge cavity at TDC. Can't do it that way. IF you really want this engine to sing to 7000+ rpm, use longer rods and shorter custom light pistons. If you can stay below that area of rpm, I'd just go with the stock parts (pistons) for the 302.

I'm not sure of the track difference, but it's not huge. But if you just want a tough drag setup, I'd look into a 4 link setup like some here have.

Ashe, don't listen to these "specialists". I know of a few as well. Sure, they know how to restore the Z to original and how to tweak a set of Webers, etc. maybe even turbo the L6 to incredible levels. The issue is they are purists and they just don't want to see another Z go to the V8 or any other engine that isn't made by Nissan, IMO, of course. There are PLENTY of 300, 400, and 500+ horsepower V8 (as well as other engines) powered Zs out there that live quite well with the R200 diff. If they mean the R180 that came in the 240, then sure, I agree, but the R180 to R200 diff swap is easy, cheap, and popular. Welcome, we will not tell you things can't be done here unless there is a real technical reason, and then we will suggest ways to do something differently so as to hopefully meet your goals.

The 280ZX suspension design is not as good for handling as the 240-280Z. I don't think it would be an easy swap either, as the track is wider.

I think you'd be o.k. with a WC T-5 if you didn't bang gears, power shift, etc. and didn't drag race with sticky huge tires.

I saw that car at the 95 Atlanta convention. It was for sale a year ago or so. BTW, Scott Bruning of http://ZTherapy.com has put a 440 in at least one Z car. Give him an email if you are interested in how he did it.