pparaska

Cheesy, and I don't like it because it isn't clean, but I put braided lines for the 240-280Z on and ran them to the bracket on top of the hub carrier, just like stock. I did bend the bracket so the line comes up to it, instead of horizontal. I then ran a SS hard line from the hose end in this bracket, down, and foward and then looped up and outboard to the caliper. Hell, here's a picture : I'd like to run a line straight from the hard line coming from the splitter to the caliper, but I noticed the same thing - the ends get close and puts the line in too much of a kink for my taste. BTW, braided lines have a teflon liner on the inner diameter. If you bend them too tight, the liner can break, and partially or fully clog the line. I'd be careful looping these puppies. There's a minimum radius you should bend a braided teflon lined hose, that depends on the diameter (-3, -4, etc.) Don't have that info handy. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Havok, I have those brakes. The old version at least. If the rotor hat is 1/2" thick at the flange, then you can put 17"x9" wheels and 255/45-17 tires on there with a stock fender lip and 8" free length coil overs. I just wrote this up in the "THE FAQ" thread. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: What we still need: 3) What (max) width rim will work with stock suspension and with 10inch coilovers. 8 inch coilovers too if it's different (I think it is). I believe that an 8inch wheel width is the max for a stock fendered 240Z in the back with 10inch springs. I know that Pete is at 9 inches but I think he's either got some funky rear end work or has 8inch springs to fit his 9's. Jim, scca, thanks for doing this. I can't make up pages, only SuperDan can do that . Here's that bit of info you're looking for in regards to unflared rear fender, with an 8" free length coil over. I'm going to list ALL the details, if you want to edit some of them out, feel free. Assumptions: -1/2" thick rotor hat. This is what my Arizona Z brakes have. If you're using stock drums or an OE cast iron rotor, this will be thinner and the backspacing I give below will have to be reduced by the difference in the thickness between my 1/2" thick hat and the other part, at the wheel flange. -240Z strut tube. The 280Z tube is a slightly larger diameter (I believe) and will take a bit of clearance away. The rear wheel is 17"x9", with 1/2" thick rim lips has 149mm (5.866") backspacing. With 8 inch coil overs, and a Carerra PN1974 coilover tube situated so that it is all the way up on my 1.5" shortened strut, the bottom of the threaded tube is next to the rim lip. On one side of the car, there's an 1/8" of clearance between the wheel and the threaded tube. On the other side, I had to remove a portion of the tube in that area to gain clearance. With 255/45-17 (rear) Michelin Pilot SX MXX3 tires, the tire clears the 8" spring by 3/16" or so. Be aware that if you go to another tire manufacturer or model, the tire sizes for a given designation (i.e., 255/45-17) change enough that the tires could be smaller or larger than desired. Note that the coilover springs used with these tires must be the 8" free length version so that the adjusting collar does not interfere with the tire. The springs must be stiff enough that they do not allow coil bind on large dips. For a car with 600 pounds on each rear tire, a rate of 275 or 300 lb/in will give enough stiffness to not coil bind. Since the bottom 1 inch or so of the threaded sleeve is not used and it's added thickness to the strut in this area causes small tube to wheel rim clearance, the threaded sleeve can be slightly shortened so that it is above the rim lip height on the strut. The tire has more clearance inboard than the rim, but a section width of 10.55" is maximum. The tires presently on the wheel are 255/45-17 Michelin Pilot SX MXX3s., which are 10.5" at the widest point. On Jim Biondo's car, these tires rubbed just a bit on a large dip on the outer wheel house. Note that the top area (~4" on either side of the highest point) of the rear quarter opening must be "rolled" so that the short horizontal portion of the fender lip is bent at the outboard edge (still unseen from outside the car) in a straight up fashion. -------------------- I know, lots more than you wanted to know, but this is a very tight fit and the details really matter. Regards, ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Cool! What are the plans? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Actually, if you do that, you could try to duplicate the pedal ratio of the Mustang and you'd be in better shape with using any hydraulic parts that the Mustang might have used (I know nothing about Fords). Playing with the pedal ratio can help alleviate some of the problems with getting the right balance between fluid volume moved (getting enough to disengage the clutch) and pedal effort.

Davy, that's right. Two ways to do the resistor thing, as I see it. A little background first: The Datsun gages have bulb sockets for illumination that have a single wire going to them, that comes off the "output" of the dimmer rheostat. These bulbs get their ground when they are plugged into the OE gages due to a brass contact in the bulb socket that contacts the gage case hole. One way to wire the aftermarket gages to have less voltage than the OE gages (and therefore match the brightness of the OE gages better) is to wire all the WHITE wires of the bulb sockets of the Autometer gages together and put a resistor between these and the illumination bulb wire going to one of the gage positions that are no longer used. The other way is to wire all the BLACK Autometer bulb sockets together and put a resistor between these and ground. It probably will only take a few ohms to bring the brightness down. HTH, ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Two differences. One the T/C kit is way better than worn out rubber for stability, turn in, etc. Two, it's harsh as hell on pot holes, tar strips, etc. And watch that delrin ball - it breaks after you hit enough pot holes . ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Terry, unfortuately, since we are typically going from American to Japanese cars with the drivetrain of the American car and the clutch pedal geometry of the Japanese, the master/slave cylinder bore ratio isn't enough information to really know what is going to happen as far as clutch engagement/disengagement capability (volume related) and pedal force. Many GM cars have a typcial 4:1 pedal ratio = (length from the pedal pivot to the pedal) --------------------------------------------- (length from the pedal pivot to the M/C rod attachment) On the 240Z, this ratio is about 6:1. So you must do a fluid volume and pedal force calc on the American car hydraulics in light of the pedal ratio for the car it's intended for and then use that same force and volume as a calculation starting point for the M/C stroke and bore needed. Unfortunately, the pedal ratio difference between the American cars and the Z drives the bore diameter up as far as required fluid volume moved while increasing the pedal force. It's been a while since I looked at this so I may be all wet. Regards, ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Rack boots are easy. Motorsport and Vic British carry a generic one that works fine. If you have coilovers, it'll be tough to fit a boot over that that doesn't get torn up by the spring. If anybody has a good way to do that, I'm interested. Pete

I have a short body AP Racing 1" diameter M/C that needs to have a reservoir put on if any one is interested. You can keep the WW bottle in the stock location when using this. The M/C only has a few dozen pushes on it, as it was too big for my uses. These puppies are expensive, but it's not doing me any good - make me an offer if you're interested. I also have a replacement O-ring kit for it. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Good point on the pressure plate throw issue. The best thing to do of course, is to find a total combo that worked for someone else with the motor/trans you're doing that is happy with the pedal throw and force. Even with a bunch of calculations using some guidelines from McLeod in their instructions for their hydraulic TO bearing, I started with a M/C that was way to large in diameter, 1". (I still have that puppie - a short AP racing piece, if anyone is interested in it.) Then I went to a 7/8" and it was too large also (too much pedal force, not enough modulation) - at least I resold that one. Now I have a 3/4" and it seems about right. But this is for a GM diaphram pressure plate and the McLeod hyd TO bearing for a T5, so it's no germane to the Ford setup, necessarily. Experimentation is expensive! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

My system has a Sanden 508 on custom brackets (simple) a Vintage Air high efficiency condensor, and a new R134a evap box that's made by the same people that made the old dealer installed units. I got that from Courtesy Nissan. Pricey. I think it was Mike kZ who put a complete vintage air package in. A bit of cobbling of the firewall area, I believe, but a much cleaner solution that's bound to be more effective.

BLK, it's pretty easy to fashion up a bracket that attaches to the OE studs with the wingnuts that hold the OE gages. I'd be leary of just depending on friction to keep them in place. BTW, on my Autometer tach, I cobbled the OE bezel/lens onto the Autometer gage - pretty easy. Then for turn signal indicators, I took small 12v green lights from Radio Shack and put them through the bezel on the left and right, infront of the lens and wired them to the original TS indicator wires with a ground. As far as putting a wire with a resistor on a common ground, that's a good idea. I'll have to mod my harness to do that.

I had the same problem, even after connecting the autometer gages into the gage illumination circuit. The Autometer gages illum changes with the rheostat, but its always brighter than the stock gage (speedo). I plan on putting a resistor in line to each of the autometer gage bulbs or find a different bulb for the stock gage.

As long as you get the clearances close and there's no gouges, as you say, I'd just put in the correct size bearings to getthe clearances in the "service" tolerance, after having the crank polished. BTW, leak free isn't so easy on the pan of a SBC. But this can be made much less leaky if you get one of the expensive but reusable one piece oil pan gaskets from Felpro. They even now have them for the older 2 piece small block with the thin oil pan seals. Sweet deal. You could reuse it on another engine if it has the same oil pan seals/gaskets.

Yes, definitely do the compression (leak down is better) test first. But it's worth while to yank the heads, pop out the pistons and inspect them. Pay attention to the rings (look for scuffing, breaks, etc.) and the ring lands. If they're beat to hell, the engine won't seal and you'll have higher rpm blow by and oil consumption. The price issue is something that the people who've only worked on japanese and european cars don't quite understand - you can buy rebuild kits for the 350/305 for a 1/4 of the cost of one for a Toyatoa, etc. And you can get the parts EVERYWHERE. [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited March 21, 2001).]

If you're going to rev up that high, the bottom end needs some help, as you know. I'd go with probably a Scat forged crank, really good forged medium to light aftermarket rods, and lightweight forged pistons. Lots of top notch machine work to boot. And a really good balance job. That's a pretty huge cam for the street. But probably needed to rev up there and make power. Heads are going to be the key for rev ability. Probably something like 220 or 240cc intake ports. Dart and Brodix come to mind. You'll be in race head land here. [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited March 21, 2001).]

I'm pretty sure 23 degrees is the standard valve angle. 18 degree is what the NASCAR guys run. Better port geometry, etc. Dart Pro-1s, Edelbrock Performer and Etecs are worth looking at.

...Mine's painted semi-gloss black now. I've seen a 57 Chevy have it's frame rails ALMOST cut all the way through by and exploding flywheel. Tons of sheetmetal damage too. That made me decide on a blowproof housing.

I made up a box for cooling fan and headlight relays that I mounted in front of the radiator support. 6 relays there. The bottom left pic at: http://members.home.net/pparaska/VariousPics6Dec2000.htm shows it. The rest are the standard 30 amp automotive relays you can get from Digikey, radio shack, etc. Cheap, and they have a version with a mounting tab you can bolt to a surface. You can see one to the right of the A/C condenser in that same pick above (it's for the A/C clutch). I do like the idea of finding a good relay box in the junkyard. This way you'd have a cover for the relays, etc.

Ain't no way mine should be copied. They were thrown together and I was embarrased to see them move from one person to another. I don't have the sketches handy, but the way I figured the pivot height of the stands was to tape a string to the height on the car (where someone told me the pivot should be) at the center of the car (left right) and stretched the string out to the side in a bunch of angles to see the farthest length from the center to the side of the car. Then I added a foot for clearance. Note that the 240Z really doesn't have a good place to mount the rotisserie up front - unless you have a 73 with the large bumper brackets - that's how I did that. The 280Z is different. Check my site for some pictures of how Paul Henley mounted his rotisserie to an early Z - it might work well for a 280 as well http://members.home.net/pparaska/rotisserie.htm Hope that helps, ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Mike, do you mean torn or dried and cracked but not all the way through? Even the guys at Raxles.com had a bit of a time putting new boots on my CV shafts. As I remember, the boot kits from Nissan are pricey. Mardi at Raxles.com may have a cheaper source. I'd just send Mardi the halfshafts and let him go through them (he can't get new tulip receivers though - but does have some good spares usually). He uses some special synthetic grease and does nice work. It's not cheap though! I'd actually approach Zbarn about getting them to swap you for a better set. A CV shaft with a torn boot should not be sent out to a customer, IMO. They owe you a replacement if it's actually torn.

I had the delrin/AL T/C kit on my car with the urethane bushing on the back side. I just adjusted it tighter until it stopped making noise going over bumps (after I squished the urethane a little) and then gave it another 1/2 turn. You just need to preload the urethane a bit to keep it the ball and seat from separating over bumps, etc. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

I don't know the exact number for backspacing you'll need, but it's much closer to 5-1/2 inches than 4.25" (you meant backspacing, not offset, right?) on an 8.5" rim. My spec for my rear wheels WITH coilovers and a 1/2" thick brake rotor hat are 149 mm backspacing (5.866 inches). But that's with a 17x9 inch rim. A shorter rim won't allow as much backspacing. I don't think the 8.5s with 4.25" (backspacing) will work off the top of my head. You'll have to do the dirty work and get in there and measure. HTH, ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

To each his own, if you want the solid axle, go for it! You are going to convince your brother to turn the Sunbeam from a farm implement (Alpine) to a sports car (Tiger), right? Scottie can help, I believe.