pparaska

John, umm, having a 7 and 4 year old, I've been through all the kiddy movies too. "(blank),...yet satisfying". That's from Lion King - I bet. Happy Father's Day all. P.S. John, if that bearing is showing wear, I agree with Ron that you ought to mag the crank. Sounds like the thing is under some severe bending. That's a fatigue testing machine you have going there BTW. Is that a toothed belt setup?

Anybody have the S&W 8 or 10 point in their car? I'm interested as to how the rear braces are configured - do they go to the strut towers or close to the top of those so I can tie them in? I called S&W and the sales guy wasn't sure.

Yep. On my site, they are the 2"x3" rectangular tubes that run at floor level from behind the seat (attached to the unibody crossmember at the front diff mount location) to the firewall and T/C rod brackets under the hood. The page URL is: http://www.tidalwave.net/~pparaska/structuralmods.htm

Nothing against fuel cells or anything, but in talking to Henry Costanzo, he put an RX-7 (second generation?) tank in his V8 Z show car to get mufflers on both sides. He's president of the Georgia Z club, http://www.georgiazclub.com/ , and his email is: hcostanzo@gowebway.com I tackled it a different way, with too very large Dynomax Hemi Super Turbo mufflers on the left side of the tank. Of course, there was some surgery required to the spare tire well. I think I may be able to fit a donut spare in there, at least partially into the well. You can see the exhaust installation at: http://www.tidalwave.net/~pparaska/exhaust.htm Not saying it's the best way to handle two mufflers back there, just the way I chose to go.

Anybody have experience with the S&W 8 point in a Z? the first thing that comes to mind is can I keep the interior panels in the car (I want them in) and will it clear the arm rest on the door. I know I should call to find out but I'm looking for the consumer experience here.

Mike, are the Conquest seats thick in the bottom cushion, compared to the 240Z seats? I'm 6'1" kind of medium range torso length for that height, so this concerns me. I tried putting 92 Eclipse seats in from a junkyard (I have a 92 Eclipse GSX and like the seats) but they were too tall from the bottom cushion to the roof (a bit wide too). BTW, if anyone is near MD, I have a nice pair of grey cloth Eclipse seats (driver's side has adjustable side bolsters) that I'd like t o sell. Paid $100 - take them away for $50. Anybody tried Miata seats? I hear they are thin in the bottom cushion like the Z, and look like they were made for the car.

Bob, I have the 1980 catalog and a brochure also. Sounds like you have everything I have. Any good info in the installation manual we could use on a non-Scarab conversion?

I know your engine is running, but for those who can't get it to fire but have the engine at TDC, you might have the distributor 180 degrees out: The cam turns at half crank speed, so it is in the correct position for firing the ignition only one of the two times the crank is at TDC for number one during two rotations of the crank. Make sure that when the #1 piston is at/near (8-12 degrees before TDC is good), the intake valve has almost closed. That is TDC for firing. The other TDC is the end of the exhaust stroke, and it ain't going to ignite anything if you have it firing at that TDC. If you're not sure which TDC you have (relative to the cam), try pulling the distributor and rotating it 180 degrees and putting it back in. If it runs then, you had it 180 degrees out. Guys, do I have this right? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Frank, instead of guessing where TDC for #1 is, I'd say measure it. I'm going to put forth a method for finding it with the heads on below, if you need to know one: Get a TDC stop that screws into the spark plug hole. You have to be VERY careful when using one though, so you don't knock a hole in the piston. NEVER use the starter or roll the car to bump the engine around when using one of these. Take all the plugs out, get the TDC close according to the pointer, and screw in the TDC stop into the number 1 spark plug hole (left front cylinder on the SBC). Then using a rachet and the correct size socket for the crank pulley center bolt (if you have one), turn the engine back away from TDC VERY SLOWLY and EASILY until you touch the piston onto the TDC stop. Read the degree under the pointer off the balancer if the numbers go that far, or mark it with something where the pointer is. Then turn it (SLOWLY and EASILY) the other way until you just touch the piston to the TDC stop and read or mark the spot on the balancer under the pointer. If you had numbers you could read off of the balancer from both "stops" above, do the math to find the half way point. For example, if it stopped at 22 degrees BTDC in one direction and it stopped at 18 degrees ATDC the other way, the halfway point is : 22 BTDC + (22+18)/2 = 2 degrees BTDC. That is your actual TDC mark using that pointer in that position. If you didn't have number marks in both locations, take a flexible measuring tape (steal your mom's, sister's, etc. sewing tape) and measure the distance between the two points with the tape laying on the outside diameter of the balancer. Mark the 1/2 distance between them onto the balancer. In other words if there are 2 inches between the marks, mark it 1 inch from one of them. Take the TDC stop out and turn the engine until it lines up with the halfway point you put on the balnacer. Either remark the balancer or move the pointer so that it reads TDC with the engine rotated to that position. You now have a fairly accurate TDC mark. This becomes important for cam timing mostly, but it's nice to know where your ignition timing really is. Just be REALLY slow and easy turning the motor over only by hand when using a spark plug hole TDC stop! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Actually, I think the GM T-5 will bolt to the same bellhousing as used for the old Muncie and T-10, like the Scarab. I'm about 99.9% sure of this. The input shaft length should also be the same. The retainer housing diameter for the TO bearing should be the same also, so your clutch parts (except the spline number/diameter on the two transmissions) should work also. So at most I would think you could buy a new clutch disc for the T-5 and things should bolt up. Oh yeah, the output yoke will probably be different (if it's not a large output shaft of the T-10), so that yoke may have to change. The driveshaft length? Maybe the JTR manual has that info (mine's at home). Love to see pics of your car, Bob. I have all the Scarab literature (catalog, fliers), and almost bought a kit 20 years ago. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Thanks Mike. The only reason I don't have a rear bar on the car is that I don't own one to put on! I also have a 1-1/8" Front bar I could use, especially when I get a rear bar. I've heard that the suspension techniques rear bar interferes with the CV shafts that I have installed. With a 1-1/8" front bar, would a 3/4 or 7/8 rear bar be the right size? So it looks like I'll be putting a custom mount for the ST bar, when I get one. Any other ideas on a rear bar that will clear the CV shafts? The reason I was doubting tha I could get 1 degree negative camber up front (or rear) is that I'm using the stock strut isolators with slotted (until the isolators hit) mount holes. I've heard you can't get to 1 degree with that and I haven't checked it on my car yet (waiting to get it all together at ride height for that).

Thanks Mike, I'll use those for my street set up (if I can get that much camber). What about rear settings for a street Z with 235/45-17s up front 255/45-17s rear, coilovers (not sure what stiffness I'll end up with), 7/8" front bar, no rear bar?

I think you are right about it being fixed at the inner end. So what is that spring for? Good question. Mardi at Raxles.com may know.

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Pete, Per JTR I'm running the Oil presure switch. But I need to get a relay for the fuel pump. What do you recommend? I'm gonna dig thru the JTR manual tonight, pick up some 10 Guage wire and rewire the whole system after I get the voltage numbers off the switch and pump. Mike, sorry, I skimmed this too fast a month ago. FYI 10 gage ought to be fine, especially if you run it from the battery area to the pump, and not from out in the engine bay, of course. But you knew that. BTW, there is a very knowledgeable auto electrical guy who runs M.A.D. Enterprises http://www.mad-enterprises.com/index.html . I bought some excellent wire and a few other goodies. The Tuff-Wire is expensive but excellent stuff. I recommend hitting his site to learn some pretty good tricks. Pete

My guess would be to keep the tripod joint from bottoming out in the receiver as you go down the road. After all, the shaft and tripod joints on each end just kind of float, don't they?

Hi Scottie, This thread started out with a question about using 280ZXT rear components in a 77 280Z. I went on to discuss the two ways that I had put parts in my 240Z to first use the 240Z stub axles and modified 280ZXT companion flanges for use with the 280ZXT CV shafts, then I discussed the custom adapters I bought from Jim Biondo that he had made up to connect the 280Z companion flange (with 280Z stub axles) to the 280ZXT CV shafts. Mike Kelly noted that the 280Z stub axle was stronger so use that. Then the discussion turned to having the adapters that I have drawings of on my site made in numbers. I agree that the welded design you have may be good enough. But I have heard of failures of highly stressed welded up driveline components. The failure is usually in the imperfect weld or in the material next to the weld. I know just a bit about weld strength from a text book and practical basis, but not enough to discuss it with any authority. I know Mike Kelly is a professional welder, so maybe he has something to add here. A driveline part like a companion flange is alot like a fatigue specimen in a rotating/bending fatigue machine. It has torque and bending moments applied to it. This is therefore an area to be concerned about things like weld imperfections (internal voids, varying weld thickness, or varying weld properties around the part) or any other stress concentrations. I'm not saying that the welded up 280Z companion flange/adapter you have is going to be a problem, but the design that Jim came up with (and I have drawings of on my site) gets away from the weld property issue. BTW, I know Jim (and me for that matter) do not want to be liable for anyone using that design. Sorry, but I feel I have to say that. I dare say that the CV adapter/companion flange/stub axle is more highly loaded and has more high stress fatigue than a cage or frame under normal loading. I realize that the two part adapter that I have on my car that Jim had made is also possibly prone to failure. Metalurgy is a problem, as well as bolts coming loose or breaking. Jim had the parts made out of Certified billet. The bolt loosening problem can be somewhat be taken care of with loctite. I know I will be looking after the bolts regularly. But lastly, I like the simple solution and I really like the simplicity of the welded design you have! In fact, I would say that a n nuclear certified welded one that was X-rayed afterward and known to be good might be the best solution. No idea how much it would cost to have a certified Nuclear welder make these and get them X-rayed. Nor do I think it is really needed. I'm just leary of the welded part in such a high stress and fatigue ridden application. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

Mike, very glad to hear you finally figured it out! I was wondering where you mounted your remote solenoid. I mounted mine where the battery is stock, up high, and at teh edge of the hood. I'm probably going to build a heat shield for it this week end, based on your experience!

Before I learned how to weld, I would use flexible tail pipe and cheap mufflers hung whatever way was easy to get the engine broken in and drive to the exhaust place. That is what I would do to be able to break in the cam, etc. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

quote: Originally posted by HP Tech: Some progress... Anyone have any ideas whether or not a balance tube near the front would help? I'd think it would still be worthwhile. With the Y way back at the diff, it's essentially an H-pipe way back there, right? I'd think that wouldn't do much for scavenging. I vote for an H-pipe (or an X-pipe like I have - even better?) just behind the trans crossmember. quote: ... It then occured to me that some engine plates hang off between the water pump and front cover, rather than front cover and block. Yeah, I don't like that idea either. The aluminum timing cover is a thin casting and the through bolts don't inspire confidence. I'd do the motor plate between the block and timing cover. quote: ...I spoke with Dave at Arizona Z last night. We spoke a bit about suspensions and brakes. I think I will bite the bullet and purchase the brake setup they make using Wilwood calipers. I have that system front and rear. No data yet as the car is still not on the road. But I've heard that for similar money and the trouble of custom mounting, the Baer calipers are much more rigid than the Wilwoods, due to there center rib design. I'd look into that. I think Wilwood will make a rotor hat to your design, and then you could use their rotors. The AZ Z front caliper bolts right on to the 240Z strut, and a simple 1/2" spacer is included to use on the 280Z strut. I'd bet a study of both company's drawings would show that the critical dimensions would work out very close. Just a thought. It may be more trouble than it's worth. quote: Fow how I explained my purpose for the car, he suggested 500lb/in coilovers at all 4 corners. He also suggested a rear anti-roll bar. Granted, I have no Z experience, but with high power to weight ratios no rear bar seems to work best. I'm not sure what I'll do there. I'll probably leave it off and only replace it if I feel there's to much understeer. Wow. 500 lb/in! Remember Dave is a road racer. I don't know your intended use, but that's a very stiff spring for such a light car. You'd better put a 10 point cage tied very well to the towers in a bunch of directions if you use those springs. Other wise the car will start to undo itself, from what I've heard. Sounds like the project is really moving along! [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited May 17, 2000).]

Sounds great. I will buy a set as spares. Let's make sure the machine shop is reputable and uses a good material. Like Milspec certified billet or something. These puppies are under some incredible torque and bending - kind of like a giant fatigue test specimen! It seems that with most of our membership in the US, a Canadian shop could make these at reasonalbe rates, given the exchange. Either way, anybody know of a good shop to make this stuff? CNC would be great if we could get enough orders.

Woah there. Sure, straight (0 degrees) is not good, but pretty hard to obtain with the Z's layout. Check my site's writeup on u-joint angles, http://members.home.net/pparaska/drivelinemods.htm . A 4 degree _DIFFERENCE_ in u-joint angles is way too much. Either angle being 5 degrees by them selves is also too much. The front and rear u-joint angles for a V8Z (with a 20inch-ish driveshaft) should be 4 degrees or preferably less. Yes, one degree can make a difference. Ever ridden/driven in a V8Z or other powerful car that had driveline vibration under full torque? Very loud, Very rough, and unsafe. The u-joints will have much shorter life it the angles are too large or too far from each other (should be within 1 degree front and rear). There's a link on my site and this one to a very good write up by street rod builders on these issues. There are two issues with u-joint angles: 1) The actual angle between the driveshaft centerline and the transmission out put shaft or differential pinion gear. and 2) The difference between the front and rear u-joint angles. It should be no more than 1 degree, preferably zero. I hate to be the party pooper, but I'd find a way to get the angles within 1 degree of each other and 4 degrees or less, if possible. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com -

Bubafett was waiting for some pics of the Companion flanges for the Z and ZX Turbo. I finally got a few pictures of the companion flanges and adapter installed on my site. You can get to them from the Tech Articles page on this site, or the URLs are listed below: http://www.tidalwave.net/~pparaska/240ZCVhalfshaftConversion.htm http://www.tidalwave.net/~pparaska/280ZCVhalfshaftConversion.htm Let me know if these pages are still unclear and how and I'll do what I can to clear up any confusion. Pete

I think the Holley blue pump that comes with the external regulator is plenty - note that it is noisy, so try to isolate it from the car some. I've heard the Carter pumps were quieter. As far as a water pump, I'm using a Stewart Components piece, as it is supposedly superior to the others since the water flow has been equalized to both sides of the engine - the stock casting is not optimal in this area, supposedly. See the links page for their site.

..Mine was 19-3/4" also with the engine in the setback position, HEI 1/2" from the firewall, Tremec 5spd, Ford Yoke, and a custom driveshaft adapter.

With the engine and trans installed, a slip yoke slid all the way into the transmission, and the differential/driveshaft adapter bolted to the differential, measure the distance between the center of the u-joint cup hole in the slip yoke to the center of the u-joint cup hole in the driveshaft adapter on the diff. Then subtract 3/4" from that figure. That is your center-to-center driveshaft length that the fabricator needs.