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Everything posted by pparaska
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There are 2 issues with image "size" on the web: 1) horizontal/vertical pixel size (how much room it takes up on the screen, relative to lines of text). 2) File size. This is what kills download time for dial-up users. It's best to use an efficient compression type format for all images for use on the web. This means that non-compression type format like .BMP is very inefficient. In other words, a .BMP image might have a small vert./horiz. pixel size that uses up 100kb of file size to save or download, versus a .JPG image from the .BMP having the same vert/horiz. pixel size and 1/10 the file size. Large file size means the download time for the page being viewed with BMPs is now much longer than needed for the small (pixel) image sizes. Therefore, use a compressed format like .PNG or .JPG, not a uncompressed format like .BMP. .JPG files have lossy compression applied to the original image, which works relatively well for photographs. It will unnecessarily blur a drawn graphic like a logo, so it's better to use .PNG for these types of files. With .JPG format, try experimenting with the "quality" of the image. Packages like Ulead's PhotoImpact even have WYSIWYG before and after windows that show the effect of a selected "quality". Use the minimum quality needed to have the image get the message across - this may be less for "This is how I did it" images, than "Dude, this car looks awesome!" type images. With .PNG format, try experimenting with the number of colors used in the pallete. For example, many logos can be displayed very well with only a 4 color optimized pallete. In fact, when saving graphics files with your drawing software, save the file in .PNG format and try experimenting with the number of colors (keeping the number as small as needed) to keep the image file size down. Here are a few tutorials on image compression and their uses: http://ratedhot.com/tutorial/imagecompression.php http://www.oit.umass.edu/publications/at_oit/Archive/spring00/jv_compress.html There are several freeware software packages available for downsizing images, converting formats, etc. Here are some for the PC: http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm http://www.photo-editor.net/ http://www.ultimatepaint.com/download.htm Note: .BMP, .GIF, .JPG, .PNG and other formats can be linked with the tags on Hybridz.org. If you want to upload an image to a HybridZ.org gallery, you can only upload .JPG and .PNG formats. Please don't link .BMP images - convert them to .JPG or .PNG first. Image limits on HybridZ Albums: .JPG and .PNG only 128000 bytes maximum file size 800 pixel maximum width 600 pixel maximum height
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There are 2 issues with image "size" on the web: 1) horizontal/vertical pixel size (how much room it takes up on the screen, relative to lines of text). 2) File size. This is what kills download time for dial-up users. It's best to use an efficient compression type format for all images for use on the web. This means that non-compression type format like .BMP is very inefficient. In other words, a .BMP image might have a small vert./horiz. pixel size that uses up 100kb of file size to save or download, versus a .JPG image from the .BMP having the same vert/horiz. pixel size and 1/10 the file size. Large file size means the download time for the page being viewed with BMPs is now much longer than needed for the small (pixel) image sizes. Therefore, use a compressed format like .PNG or .JPG, not a uncompressed format like .BMP. .JPG files have lossy compression applied to the original image, which works relatively well for photographs. It will unnecessarily blur a drawn graphic like a logo, so it's better to use .PNG for these types of files. With .JPG format, try experimenting with the "quality" of the image. Packages like Ulead's PhotoImpact even have WYSIWYG before and after windows that show the effect of a selected "quality". Use the minimum quality needed to have the image get the message across - this may be less for "This is how I did it" images, than "Dude, this car looks awesome!" type images. With .PNG format, try experimenting with the number of colors used in the pallete. For example, many logos can be displayed very well with only a 4 color optimized pallete. In fact, when saving graphics files with your drawing software, save the file in .PNG format and try experimenting with the number of colors (keeping the number as small as needed) to keep the image file size down. Here are a few tutorials on image compression and their uses: http://ratedhot.com/tutorial/imagecompression.php http://www.oit.umass.edu/publications/at_oit/Archive/spring00/jv_compress.html There are several freeware software packages available for downsizing images, converting formats, etc. Here are some for the PC: http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm http://www.photo-editor.net/ http://www.ultimatepaint.com/download.htm Note: .BMP, .GIF, .JPG, .PNG and other formats can be linked with the tags on Hybridz.org. If you want to upload an image to a HybridZ.org gallery, you can only upload .JPG and .PNG formats. Please don't link .BMP images - convert them to .JPG or .PNG first. Image limits on HybridZ Albums: .JPG and .PNG only 128000 bytes maximum file size 800 pixel maximum width 600 pixel maximum height
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There are 2 issues with image "size" on the web: 1) horizontal/vertical pixel size (how much room it takes up on the screen, relative to lines of text). 2) File size. This is what kills download time for dial-up users. It's best to use an efficient compression type format for all images for use on the web. This means that non-compression type format like .BMP is very inefficient. In other words, a .BMP image might have a small vert./horiz. pixel size that uses up 100kb of file size to save or download, versus a .JPG image from the .BMP having the same vert/horiz. pixel size and 1/10 the file size. Large file size means the download time for the page being viewed with BMPs is now much longer than needed for the small (pixel) image sizes. Therefore, use a compressed format like .PNG or .JPG, not a uncompressed format like .BMP. .JPG files have lossy compression applied to the original image, which works relatively well for photographs. It will unnecessarily blur a drawn graphic like a logo, so it's better to use .PNG for these types of files. With .JPG format, try experimenting with the "quality" of the image. Packages like Ulead's PhotoImpact even have WYSIWYG before and after windows that show the effect of a selected "quality". Use the minimum quality needed to have the image get the message across - this may be less for "This is how I did it" images, than "Dude, this car looks awesome!" type images. With .PNG format, try experimenting with the number of colors used in the pallete. For example, many logos can be displayed very well with only a 4 color optimized pallete. In fact, when saving graphics files with your drawing software, save the file in .PNG format and try experimenting with the number of colors (keeping the number as small as needed) to keep the image file size down. Here are a few tutorials on image compression and their uses: http://ratedhot.com/tutorial/imagecompression.php http://www.oit.umass.edu/publications/at_oit/Archive/spring00/jv_compress.html There are several freeware software packages available for downsizing images, converting formats, etc. Here are some for the PC: http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm http://www.photo-editor.net/ http://www.ultimatepaint.com/download.htm Note: .BMP, .GIF, .JPG, .PNG and other formats can be linked with the tags on Hybridz.org. If you want to upload an image to a HybridZ.org gallery, you can only upload .JPG and .PNG formats. Please don't link .BMP images - convert them to .JPG or .PNG first. Image limits on HybridZ Albums: .JPG and .PNG only 128000 bytes maximum file size 800 pixel maximum width 600 pixel maximum height
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The vertical SIZE is good! But using a .BMP format uses much more space and causes alot more download time than using a compressed format like .JPG or .PNG. .PNG is good for images with few colors, and .JPG is good for photos. For instance, I converted you .BMP to a 9kb .JPG (that's 78% "quality") that still looks good: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=2599 That will load alot quicker for dial-up users. Cheers, Pete
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Thanks, Bill. If I were to do it again, it'd have a magna-charged, stroked LS6, C5 front and rear suspension and brakes, with the C5 transaxle .
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A bit of signature ettique that I TRY to use is this: 1) If the post I make is of a totally non-car related nature (e.g., Thread on alsil's son), I try to remember to uncheck the signature box. 2) If I've already posted to a thread and I'm making a subsequent post, I try to remember to uncheck the signature box. 3) My signature picture is 207x100 pixels (jpg) and it's only 6605 bytes. I also try not to use too much vertical space with the entire sig, as it overwhelms a post if the sig is 4 times the height of the short message. Notice that I said in #1 and #2 that I "try" to follow these rules. But sometimes I forget to uncheck the box and get too lazy to go back and edit the post to uncheck it, or I just don't notice. BTW, I made a small version of the JackStand Racing graphic, only 897 bytes. You can find it in the Gallery, here: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=2558 BTW, I WAS the king of jackstand racing - 11 years under the knife!
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Joe, if his wife doesn't want the shotgun seat first, I'm up for it! (Wish I could see the pics - the yahoo picture site in your other post keeps bouncing me out.) Can't wait for a ride! Mike, there's a Friday at the Track at Summit Point in Mid-March. Sounds like we should go! David (can't remember his login name - new guy) is going with his Z (or V8 510?).
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Re: I would like some sugg. on what color to paint my GTO
pparaska replied to a topic in Body Kits & Paint
Well, I couldn't very well say dark blue . Here ya go: But this (black?) one looks menacing: -
Re: I would like some sugg. on what color to paint my GTO
pparaska replied to a topic in Body Kits & Paint
My vote is Silver. Nothing looks more purposeful to me. And you won't draw attention to the car from a distance like the Red and Fly Yellow will. -
I converted the JackStand Racing graphic you guys are using in your .sig to a .PNG format - it's 897 bytes versus the 4,590 the .JPG you've been using. The image is also on the HybridZ.org server: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=2558 Cheers,
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Agreed. There's convection happening in the tubes, and if the flow is very high, it doesn't have enough time to happen efficiently. The extra length a daul pass radiator has allows for more time for the transfer to happen. Too much time is not helpful either. For different flow rates, time and tube length (doubled with a dual pass) are somewhat interchangeable. But there are limits, and only a window where the flow rate or tube length can be varied. One issue is that after the coolant has reached something closer to ambient, the transfer rate drops off added time (slow flow rate) or more tube length gives diminishing returns. But if the tube length and flow aren't optimal, a longer tube (go to dual pass) or slow flow rate will help move more heat out of the coolant. The down side to slowing the coolant flow too much is that it may not allow efficient heat transfer from the engine parts to the coolant. Leave your WP belt off and you can see what happens (BTDT).
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Thanks, John. I ended up getting a regular, stocked radiator, as it's alot cheaper than a custom one. Still not cheap though, at $287. Here's the info: PN 8200240075 Universal, Two Row, Double Pass Open, 24"x19", 1-3/4" Lower Outlet PN 1030002050 Fitting, Universal, -20 AN Port to 1 1/2" O.D. Inlet (Note: The newer design radiators they sell have the -20 AN port, so that the fitting is needed - this makes it easier for them to stock one radiator that fits several Inlet hose diameters.) BTW, I had them weld a 1/4" bung to the radiator at the bottom for draining. That added $35 to the radiator. If you know what tabs, etc. you want welded to the tanks for mounting, they'll do that also.
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Based on Johnc's advise, I took a look at C&R Racing / Visteon for a radiator. The 84 Camaro radiator (used to be recommended by JTR) couldn't really cool well enough. I never overheated, but I couldn't rely on the temp staying in the range of the thermostat temp under load - it did creep up to 220 under extended high rpm running. I talked with Chet at C&R. His opinion was that for a 24" wide radiator, I'd be better off with a double pass. His reasoning was that only ~20" of tube length with only 19" of core height was borderline for 500 hp that I'm hoping my 406 will get close to. He said the double pass would ensure that the coolant had sufficient overall tube length to let the heat transfer happen. But those guys don't know anything - because NASCAR and other pro racers buy from them doesn't mean a thing... BTW, the C&R radiator is a very sturdy piece and the workmanship is beautiful.
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Yeah, thanks! That was pretty wild seeing my car in that shot at the drag strip and my name in print! My wife and kids were very excited! Too bad it was rev limited to 4500 rpm at the drag strip - operator error! (BTW, I did recently get the 2800 lb w/o driver pig to run a 12.78@110.4) The mag is really great! And I like the 64 page format. With so many different models of Z out there (240Z/260Z/280Z/280ZX/Z31/Z32/350Z) it is difficult to get alot of info on any one model into one issue. More pages help. I'd be happier to see 80 or more pages, with more detailed content on the 4/yr schedule you have now than 64 pages every 2 months. Alex - that's a great shot of your car!
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Didn't that Star Wars video kid have alot of problems after that hit the net? Like incredible embarrassment - so much so that he was contemplating suicide? This one could be a sequel. I really feel sorry for these kids - they get a video camera, put the stuff on the net, and then get their feelings hurt when the world seems to do nothing but laugh at them. As if growing up wasn't difficult enough these days!
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"I'm back in the saddle again!", MML's Ross C home
pparaska replied to Modern Motorsports Ltd's topic in Non Tech Board
Hey Ross, welcome back! I've been scarce much of the last 10 months myself. BTW, I added a link from my CV shaft conversion pages to your adapter page. -
Al, I'm really glad to hear your son is doing so well, your music career continues to progress upward, and that the insurance decided to come through. Sincerely, Pete
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Mike called me from the Vette on his way home from picking it up. I had just pulled out of my work's parking lot and my cell went off - I figured it was the wife asking for me to get some milk on the way home . Talking to Mike Friday night was like talking to a 12 year old boy that just got a new X-box and a pile of nudie magazines!! Quite happy for ya, Mike - Congrats on a nice purchase! I can't wait for a ride! - and some pics! (Sniff - I wish they had a 2+2 Vette - I DO have to cart my 8 and 10 year old kids around every once in a while when the wife's sedan is not available.) Now get Donna something decent to drive, would ya! I'm thinking an M3 would be about right for her
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http://members.aol.com/horemheb/josie.htm Something my sisters used to watch back in the late 60s, early 70s. Dang - lots of porn site hits with that phrase!
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That's the idea! I'll call my sisters up so they can scream at me because they want to watch Jose and the PussyCats instead .
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I'm hoping they will just keep cycling the shows. I'll have to check it out tomorrow morning. Maybe I'll eat some Fruit Loops while I watch it .
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http://www.speedtv.com/programs/190/ My kids will be watching it with me!
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Sweet looking car, great selection of parts used, and beautiful execution! That's going to be a rewarding car to drive and show off! Nice photo documentation too! Now you just need words to go with it .
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The guy that used to run the DSM email list and runs DSM.org did that exact same thing to a buddy's M3 on a track. That's twice I've heard of someone downshifting one of these cars and overspinning the engine. The DSM guy paid for the engine work to get the car back together. He was lucky enough to have a bunch of people on the DSM list that pitched in to help him pay for it. But I bet your friend is SOL. This seems to be one of those things that makes modern day America an embarrassment - that few people take responsibility for their actions and that lawyers are brought in to try to correct things that common decency should be taking care of. I'd hope the driver's school organization at least has a policy for what to do in this instance, and if not, would pressure the instructor to come clean.
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John has some great advice above. BTW, get those math skills down SOLID before going forward. I made the mistake of forging ahead with the Physics and Engineering courses before I had my Calc II under my belt and paid dearly for it. If you're having trouble with the concepts of Calc II, don't be afraid to take a break and review that next semester (audit the course) before going to Calc III. The concepts in Calc II are very important to understand before going forward to most of the engineering courses, Physics courses (especially Electricity and Magnetism). Don't get in a rush. I know how it is to want to get moving with all of the Eng. and Physics courses, but getting the Math down is ESSENTIAL to being able to understand the concepts in the physics and eng. courses. I would probably be an EE now if I'd done that - my first EE course was a Sophomore course in Systems and Circuits that blew me away due to conjugation integrals - yep - Calc II and III. Even if you have to take a light semester, or get a bunch of non-engineering electives out of the way, concentrate on the Calc II again next semester, maybe get a tutor for it. It will pay off later.