Chewievette

What is the L6's Bore Spacing? I searched but I couldn't find the acctual numbers. I read something about the center spacing being a little bigger than the rest, I assume the other four are equal though? Thanks.

That motor was tricky to get pics of since it was in back behind the cars and you couldnt walk back there. Unfortunately that is NOT the motor in the miura! The one pictured is the V10 in the gallardo(sp?) The Miura's motor is also transversely mounted.

Saw it in person at the Detroit auto show, AMAZING Car!! I would beg borrow and/or steal to get one if they ever build it! I love the original and an updated version would be awesome. There is acctually a kit car out there of the original Miura but unfortunately there are fewer of those than the real thing! A company over in England bought the molds a couple of years ago but I havn't heard if they are acctually going to produce it or not. Here's the pics I took of it, I didn't think you'd mind too much...

shoot, oh well. Junkyard here I come!

I'm looking at getting a 240z that has a few parts missing, I need to know if the front struts off of my 280zx parts car can be made to fit the 240z. I did a search but it didnt answer my question. I dont want to spend the money to get the replacement parts when I already have them, know what I mean. From the research that I've done I wouldn't think so, but in the parts catalog that I have they look very similar. Thanks.

I'll try it! Sounds Awesome! Cheap and easy, that's my kind of formula! As soon as my car is ready for paint I'll try it ...unfortunately ya'll might be waiting a while!

If you want to get a patch made I'll tweak it a little so it looks better. Let me know and I'll get to work. It might take a while since I'm trying to orchestrate the pickup of my second Z, I'm excited to get it here! also, let me know if you want to change anything.

Those engines are mounted output shaft forward, it has a driveshaft into a gearing system where it makes a 180 then another driveshaft takes it to the prop.

Here's a quick comparo.. These are the two pics I used. the angles are directly transfered to the new logo.

Here's my take, made in MSpaint and CAD... If I was going to use it for a logo or anything I would increase the diameter of the red circle. Someone who's good with photoshop can probably do much better.

If you want a nostalgia go for it! A mechanical fuel injection on a 240 would look sweet. You might be able to rig it up with electronic fuel injection, if you know what your doing...

That manifold doesn't look to be any better flowing than the stock manifold, of course a flow check of some sort will tell for certain. With that assumption the advantages I see are, possibly cheaper(not much), and you can put the turbo anywhere you want. The advantages of stock are, parts are available, play and play, minimal extra fabrication(aka, cheaper overall). Unless you do a twin turbo, a fabricated manifold will probably give you more headaches than are necessary. I am far from an expert, this is just my $.02

I'm not up to snuff on all the rule books but I'm pretty sure that I would have to keep the engine design fairly consistant with the original. I'm not planning on running someone else's head, the stock bolt pattern would be retained. If you want to keep a 2.4L displacement and all of your stock internals then I can do that. If you want to build a 3.2L stroker and still use Nissan internals then you can do that too and if you want to use some of my custom parts I'm sure we can get your displacement up near 4.0L! It all comes down to how big of a sleeve I can put into it. If there's interest I could increase the deck height so you can stroke it even further, the possibilities are near endless. I am also looking at doing a flow through head for those that want every last bit of power. I have more ducks to get lined up but if there is interest in this then I will have a go/no-go decision for you in about a month.

If I were to do a run of two dozen blocks and sell them as rough castings your looking at about $500-$600 each. If you want the sleeves installed and machined it'll probably be about $1000. The market is small, mostly show cars and hardcore racers but I predict that we would only get couple dozen orders per year. not a money maker but we might be able to break even on them

Would anyone acctually be interested in an aluminum block for their L series? I have the casting equipment required to do it if there is interest. I havn't looked into it yet but the possibility for never before seen displacements, external webbing for added strength, and the obvious weight reduction would definately out perform any stock based engine. however, it all comes down to how much one would be willing to spend for a bit of extra performance Aluminum weighs about 40% of cast iron, I dont know how much an L series block weighs but the savings are pretty substantial. Any thoughts?

If you want to know why I'm switching to carbs its because I have a business where all I deal with all day are efi cars with computers that are always a pain in the behind and my daily driver has the most idiotic computer system that you or I can imagine so I just dont want to deal with that right now. I have used carb systems before and they are very very Simple and that's what I'm going for! I dont really care if I have to constantly adjust the carbs, that's half the fun! If your not tinkering with your car then its just sitting there, I'd rather be working on it.

Is anything legal in california?? j/k I doubt it since efi tends to run more efficiently so if you swap to carb, getting it to pass emissions might be difficult.

I've got a triple weber setup lined up to purchase in the next week or two. I've decided to buy an electric pump for carb'ed engines so I dont have to install extra fuel lines. I might also be getting a new head in the same deal as the triple setup, but I'm not sure yet. I've been planning on a new cam and headers from the start so when I get it on a dyno I'll let you know how it does. Its not an out of the ordinary setup by any means but it'll be good to get something on the dyno again and I'm sure you guys wouldn't mind hearing the results.

Incoming e-mail. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm going to need some more but you have answered all my questions so far!

Thanks for the info! The Arizona Z car manifold looks like it will be a good manifold to run with, at least until I can afford the triples. I might be able to swap my EFI setup with a guy I know for an old SU setup, I'll have to chat with him and see what exactly he wants.

I just want to run a simple system on my rod that Works. Computers cost money. If I can go down to the auto parts store and pickup any old low pressure pump and have it work then I'll use it. I'm putting my money into rebuilding the motor so it runs good again and building the car.

I'm going to be building a street rod in the near future and since I have a 280zx engine available to me I'm going to use it. I'd like to convert it to a triple carb setup but I need to know how. The intake and the carbs are easy, I need to know how to convert the fuel system. Can I use the EFI fuel pump and regulate it down to the needed pressure? What pressure should I be aiming for? Or would it be better to use a carb fuel pump? I read that there are two pumps on the early cars, is that true? Would I need both? I have a couple more questions but I need to get going so I'll be back later. Thanks. btw, I did do a search for this info but it consisted of everyone telling the inquirer to Not do it.

If its getting painted then dont even bother with CF, unless this is for an all out race car it wont matter That much. Personally I'm not a big fan of that kind of flares, but if you want that factory original look then that's definately the look to go for.

Have you seen the pics of my car?? Most anything that has a title on it is better than mine, in fact that's the only reason why I'm not rebuilding this one is that darn title.

Either of you guys willing to part with the shell of the car? I cant afford much but if your willing to part with it for a reasonable price I'll see what I can do. I'm in central Michigan, the shorter the drive to pick it up the better, thanks!