Chewievette

I used to drive an 87 ford mustang with a 2.3L four cylinder and a five speed. I only reved it to 5K, and it had no power at all but it was a blast to drive! I think an LD powered Z would have a similar fun to drive factor. It wouldnt rev as quickly but it could pull that stump out of your back yard. At the very least it would be an interesting experiment, something to try just to see what happens. I'm still not understanding this impending doom theory. If weight of the internals is the problem, that can be fixed by any competant performance engine builder. So yes you could get it to spin higher without destroying it. But its been mentioned that even if you could there is no power to be had up there. That might be true if you kept the stock fuel system but if your going to get all buddy buddy with the diesel shop down the street and all their cool gadgets why cant you change the fuel curves to meet the need for more power up top? and regrinding the cam is no big deal, any performance rebuild would have one anyways. So what is the limiting factor?

So basically what you guys are saying is that putting an LD in a Z for fuel economy is a good idea and putting an LD in a Z for power is a bad one? On the other hand, take that 90hp LD and put boost on it and you would end up with 150hp (maybe?) but it would be making all kinds of torque. At the very least it could be a ton of fun to drive.

And if that one turbo isnt enough you could alway compound it, simple enough on a diesel. 50psi easy. I hope you got good head studs! I'll have to look into this, it sounds very interesting and I happen to know where to pickup an LD for cheap.

What kind of supporting mods would you need to do for a LD28T? Beyond say a normal L28ET swap. The Fuel system would have to be changed out of course but is there anything else that needs attention? and what exactly would you need for the fuel system?

I might have to take you up on that! Apparently the primer I am using didnt want to stick so when I peeled the tape off the paint came with it. So much for that paint job! On to plan B.. I'll let you know if I can save it tomorrow.

76s30 - Hey, I'm going to be in Wisconsin in late July, mind if I stop by and make some of those spares disappear?

While slowly reading through this thread I stumbled upon a question. I'm not done reading, so dont hit me if its already been covered! If one of the limiting factors of porting the head is the wall thickness would there be a substantial gain from filling the water jacket and hogging out the ports? Or would you loose too much efficiency from the extra heat? Obviously this would only work on a track only drag engine but I'm still curious.

AH, Excellent idea! I'm sure I have that, Thanks!

I just snaped those on my workbench, I was in a hurry. I'll try to source a white background but I'm not sure if I can. I'll let you know if I cant.

Its hard to submit pics when the car is lying in pieces all over my desk! I've been working on it all day, and theres still a long ways to go. I dont know if I have a background that fits your requirements, could I PM you a couple samples to see if anything I have is suitable?

Guess I know what I'll be doing this week! At least I've already got paint on it... I remember a few times when I painted the model the night before the contest!

Two weeks left and I still have Tons of work to do! Hmm, I might need to cut a few mods...

I ended up with an exhaust header for a L6 powered race boat. Still dont know what I'm going to do with it, probably hack it up and stick it on my car one of these days.

I am currently not in a position to buy anything. Seems I need to take a few more classes than I originally hoped so my spare change just went far far away. At the moment I need to beg my boss for more hours to take up the slack. Once again I'm in a position where getting rid of the Zs would help a lot but thats my last resort. I'm not having a very good week, bad things seem to come in waves. Basically, I'm out of money, I need to take classes four days a week for another semester 60 miles from home which is about $30 per day in gas. and oh yeah, my grandpa died yesterday. I'm probably not going to be around the site on a regular basis so no promises when things will get done.

So your worried that any extra power will push the piston through the cylinder wall? I dont think I've heard that before, but then again I havnt delt with these rod ratios before.

The problem is that all of the engines in question are OHV. However from the pics I have of the TB42 block it looks to still have the L series head bolt pattern. They just added a few bolts. The other problem is that it uses an industrial bellhousing so an adapter would be needed. at that point you might as well just get an RB. As it stands the most likely crankshaft is the TB42 which is 96mm stroke. All else being equal the rod/stroke ratio is 1.18. Same crank in a LD block is 1.38 ratio.

Heres some info I got back from an industrial parts supplier concerning bearing widths. He was not able to provide info about bearing spacing. The P40 specs are as follows: No.1(Front): 2 pcs: 40.50mm No.2,3,5: 8 pcs: 26.13mm No.4: 2 pcs: 41.13mm No.7: 2 pcs: 49.13mm These P40 specs are from NDC bearings, MS1172GP. There is also a "P" engine, NDC # MS1001GP. Its specs are as follows: No.1: 2 pcs: 43.65mm No. 2,3,5: 8 pcs: 26.00mm No.4: 2 pcs: 41.00mm No.7: 2 pcs: 49.00mm The TB42 specs are as follows, NDC# MS1199A: No.1,2,3,4,5,7: 12 pcs: 26.00mm No.6: 2 pcs: 31.95mm

Heres the info I got at the dealer. SD33 crank will not work, it only has four main bearings. P40 crank might work it has seven main bearings but the thrust bearing is in the #1 position unlike the L series which is in #4 TB42 crank also might work but it has the thrust bearing in the #6 position. So now some one needs to get their hands on the parts to get some measurements, the critical ones are bearing widths and center to center distance between each. We also need to know bearing size and max stroke clearance. I'll make some more calls and see what I can find in the area.

Looks like the nuts unthreaded and the cap fell off then the bolts popped out the top and the crank beat the snot out of the rod and piston which also bent the exhaust valve so its stuck open. Oh and the bottom of the cylinder got chewed up a bit. but with a stroker that might need to be clearanced anyways. Good thing I was planning on replacing the entire rotating assembly.

Nope, thats the #3 from my L28 that came out of a friend's 280z.

No new info on the engine parts. I'm hoping to get over to the dealer tomorrow, but I also need to go to the secretary of states office and we all know how that goes. I just need to know if its going to work, it sucks being "theoretical" The 5.4L is only possible with the TB42 block which is OHV, as long as your fine with ditching the L series, it could be possible. If the super long stroke P40 crank works with the L series block then maximum displacement will be nearly 4.5L, still enough to kill a current stroker engine. With an SD33 crank displacement will be around 3.9L I dont know much about the GM 5cyls but if they are making decent power then I'm all for it. The problem might be a limited aftermarket, an oddball engine like that might not have a very big following.

Veritech, you need help man! Thanks for keeping my spirits up, I need a little encouragement after finding this in my engine teardown...

idk, for some reason I have this strong pull to keep a nissan driveline in the car. I'm no purist, but it just seems right. Especially if I drop a 5.4L Nissan Straight six in it! I feel evil just saying it...

Thanks guys! and here I thought I was keeping a low profile around here. I guess I need to try harder! I was going to go and get my Z running but it looks like its going to rain, so I guess it will have to wait. I really need to get that thing inside! Oh well, everyone enjoy your June 2nd!

Me too!!