Chewievette

Very, Very Nice!! 5 hours well spent. I wish I had access to the parts supply that you do. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to do more scratch work. The windows are not that hard to remove, you just need a steady hand, a sharp drill bit and a little patience. Mine needed to come out for what I have planned, I'm just glad I didnt crack them. btw, what is the little bar under the dash on the passenger's side for?

Mine showed up today! Much faster than I had expected, ordered from collectablediecast.com, no problems at all. Its going to be very hard for me to keep my project a secret, but I'll try my best.

Mine shipped on wed, I cant wait to get it! I've got a bunch of ideas rolling around in my head begging to be let out.

Since you mentioned my car, I'm going to redo my white primer in flat black soon. I noticed one really bad trait of white primer... rust bleeds through very quickly and it shows from a mile away. Acctually that would be a good thing if I was going to fix that soon. but I'm still trying to get it on the road and I dont have the time to attack the surface rust so it will have to wait. I think the black will cover better. if not, it wont matter much to me. I'm going to keep the BRE scheme and bright topside colors though.

The first car I ever "Had to have" was this 1970 El Camino SS 454 4speed that was sitting in the weeds near my school. All original, still had the cowl hood and everything. But it had the usual Michigan rust, so it was only $2000. Obviously I was talked out of it by my parents but I still kick my self for not buying that car. Of course when I was acctually ready to get a project the car was no where to be found. I later found out it was taken to the scrap yard courtesy of the city so they could make another parking lot.

Acctually, its just a recently dug up, two year old thread. Although I recently found a complete LD28 for the swap, I'm not really interested in exploring this idea any further.

I am going to try a couple more local stores on monday, if I strike out then I'll order one from collectablediecast. I'll shoot you a PM as soon as I am for sure in the contest. btw, the local stores carry Jada products, the problem is that I have found None with the OptionD line.

Nissan factory race head

Thats not entirely accurate. I just drove to the local major retail store (meijer) and they do not carry Jada products. Guess I'll have to find the next closest major retailer. btw, I got it now. Jada or scratch, I'll see what I can come up with.

I agree with 280zforce, Not giving out names until after the judging is over with will give us lesser known members a chance. If I can find one of your diecasts locally I will give it a shot. And just to be sure I am clear on this, I could swap the engine, wheels, and tires as long as they came from a Jada car, correct?

You want me to scratchbuild an engine, wheels and tires for the car? Thats just weird man. If I can use stuff from my parts bin then I'm game.

I am planning a similar engine, but I was going to use LD28 rods because I finally have a source. If I can find L20B rods, I would rather have those to keep the rotating mass down. I was also planning to bore it out a bit more than you are, 89-90mm. Tony D - We Definately want to hear that engine at full song!

Here is version 2 that I have been tinkering with. I basically turned the TBs 90* to get them closer together. In this layout with the TB flange 6" from the head, all six runners are at 10* off from straight. Which should give me Much better flow over my last design. I'll do some mockup this weekend and try to get some of the details set so I can make more detailed drawings.

I just learned more in 5min than I have in a Long time about ITBs. and I'm really glad because its helping me out a TON with the design of my own system. I have been looking for info about the vacuum system but never really found anything, Not so anymore! My problem is that you guys are talking about N/A engines and I intend to turbo mine, so if you have a sec, I'd love to hear any info you might have on that. The TBs that I have are 48mm units that I happen to have lying around, I am also having issues with the linkage, but after reading more of this thread I have a couple ideas to tinker with. EDIT - I stayed up way too late working on this. I need to do some mocking up before I go much further but this is the basic design. Obviously the 1 and 6 runners are no where near optimal however the other four are pretty close. I am going to play around with the design more before I set anything in stone. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Looks good from here! So what's your ground clearance now? That clamp looks awefully low.

I cut out a circle of scotchbrite and superglued it to the big end of a short phillips screwdriver and chucked that into the drill press. Then I layed out a grid on the base plate of the press and experimented with patterns till I found one that I liked then marked the starting points on the grid and did a swirl, moved the piece over, did another, moved it over, etc... Its really not that hard, it just takes forever. It took approx 1/2 hour to do each 4x8 side, which sounds like a lot but once you get in a rythem its goes by fast.

The wangan car is a twin turbo Blow through. I'll see if I can find the vid, its cool to look at no matter what your acctually looking for! This video shows the car and close engine shots. If you search this website you should be able to turn up pictures of the real car or at least info on the turbo setup, if your interested.

Thats cool, I'll have to look those up sometime. I always liked the looks of mechanical fuel injection, perhaps I'll follow your lead and give it a shot on my car.

So how is the bosch top going to work with your hardline idea? or are you going to run a rail instead?

Excellent! I cant wait to see it. Are you going to make a few extras or it this going to be one of a kind?

One of the steps chrysler had to take when getting the viper road legal in europe was to route the exhaust out the back. You might have to do the same if you dont get one of those nice inspectors.

I acctually ended up using a disk of scotch brite glued to the end of a screwdriver. I am looking for more methods to produce a finer finish. I dont ask questions, I just do the labs. But, its a good idea to keep your spark plugs organized once they are removed from the engine. This tray is marked 1-6T and 1-6B for all top and bottom plugs. If you put them in the correct place when removing them you will know where they came from and where they go if you put them back in.

Thats looking Very cool derek, my only concern is if it will hit the hood. The engine tilts a little bit twards the pass side and with the up angle you have on the intake, it looks like it will hit, but I could easily be wrong. I know some of the guys running webers have open trumpets with no filtration and have not had any problems. For the fuel, you could do a "spider block" on top of the valve cover that runs individual lines to each injector. This would be pretty easy with the stock Z injectors since they have hose connections. I'll try to dig up some pics to show what I'm talking about. Here is an aircraft engine with mechanical fuel injection using a flow divider (aka, Spider)

Not that I know of... However, it is on my to do list. That twin SU manifold should be really cool when you get it running. I wonder how many people will be able to figure out out. btw, what are you doing for linkages? are you going to link the TBs together with a shaft and hook the input to one or are you going to hook the input to both individually? My daily driver uses twin TBs with a syncro shaft that I always thought looked dead sexy.

I've been taking a sheet metal class this semster for my A&P course and one of the projects is to make a spark plug tray. The tray was easy to make, cut, bend, rivet, drill, etc... The directions on the lab just tell you to add a finish then turn it in, so instead of just shooting some paint on it like everyone else, I took some supplies home and started experimenting. It took a few hours to fine tune a technique and after a couple deep breaths I started on the tray. It only took two screw ups for me to learn not to do that, it ususally means redoing at least two rows. However, after two hours of work I ended up with something that looks pretty darn good! I know its not Z related but I am just so pleased with the results I have been looking for things to do on my Z! I have a spare valve cover that I am thinking about having a go at. It wont go on my Z, but maybe someone else would want it. Have any of you guys tried this before? After a couple coats of clear. It looks so good I dont think I'll ever use it!