1 fast z

Just some info on the meth. I ran 24 PSI a BUNCH Of times in second and third gear on the twin cam motor, without knock on pump 91 octane. I installed meth, so I can run 30 PLUS psi on pump fuel. The DOHC head I am sure helps with the detonation/quench issue though. I would think that at 12 PSI and a standalone and enough injector, that you should be able to run that on straight pump gas and not meth? BTW Jeff, I have not got those measurements yet on my oringing, but I believe that It is about 3mm a side larger than the bore Is what I have been doing. It really depends on the head, as you have to make sure the oring is right below a strong portion of the head. BTW Jeff, what is the piston to head clearence you have been running? And just for jabs, I picked up an entire LD motor complete from the junkyard yesterday for the price of a LS400 AC compressor .

Header wrap is a big no no. I dont get why you dont move everything down like 2"? It seems so easy to do. Also, what material are those elbows? cast Iron?

My 1970 caused me to get charged with a class three felony of aggravated assult. I got it plead down to class 1 misdomenor after 15,000 dollars in lawer fees. Have I ever said how much I hate motorcylce drivers!

I would SERIOUSLY re-design so that you dont have those pipes so close to the intake. It will make a big difference. No matter what barrier you install, it wont be enough. It is alot easier to do it now, rather than once you have it all welded up. Just some food for thought.

How is the extra fuel added with this setup?

You cannot bore all of the cylinders to install sleeves in the bores to make it a very large bore. The reason is that there is no strength left to the block. There is nothing left that ties the deck of the block to the lower half of the block. We have built motors by boring out each cylinder completly and installing sleeves but it takes a very tricky welding process to make work. You have to weld the sleeves in the block from the top and the bottom. No you cannot just break out the mig welder and weld in your sleeves, lol. You cant sleeve two bores next to eachother in a block without welding them in. So if you have to sleeve a block for a bad bore, you can only do every other one.

I have had numerous autocrosses and track days, and lots of hard driving, and NEVER had a de-bead.

Thats one of the funniest things I have seen on hybrid!

For those that do not know how this case compares to others, here ya go:

No, Ive seen other friends of mine take elk with the 50BMG, if it is placed right, it is not that bad at all. It is also perfectly legal. There are some big bulls that you cannot sneak up on, and hide in some very far, remote places. If I have an open shot at 1200 yards, this is the gun I will use to shoot. It is mainly for distance. I took and 375 Holland and holland improoved three years ago, and it wasnt bad at all on the meat. Now if you it them in the bag legs or something, I am sure you can ruin alot of meat.

Yea, all three of the ranges here have banned any 50BMG. Everyone kept complaining about the blast.

Last Memorial Day weekend, we took some guns out shooting, while we were camping. I took My .50 Desert eagle, my .454 Casull Ruger, and my Model 99 Barrett CQ chambered in 50 BMG. As you can tell I like big guns. Fartherest I have shot this gun so far is 1350 yards, verified with my range finder. It is amazing on how accurate this gun is. I have a bull Elk tag this year that I will take this gun on. I installed a Mark 4 Leupold Illuminated scope on this gun. In these pictures we were shooting at fire extinguishers. I have shot across the hood of my trucks before, but this time, the first shot I broke the windsheild on my wifes 4RUnner! Good thing I have free glass coverage. This gun is a blast to shoot, I must say. Too bad it is so expensive to shoot. With buying loaded ammo, it is over 5.00 a shot. I reload my own ammo, which does help on the cost. This gun is the CQ model which is the lightest 50 barrett makes. It has a 25" barell and only weighs 21lbs. Light enough to carry on a sling. Anyways, though I would share some pics.

Actually my motor makes more power than an RB with the same setup. My head flows more than modded RB heads, and I have more displacement. I built my heads because I wanted FLOW. My head flows 315 CFM at .55" of valve lift and 28" of water pressure. There is no L series head on this earth that flows that. That Is why I did what I did. If your going for different then you kinda will have a different setup (although there are alot of modded stock intakes, but monzters is the best setup for a stock intake). Its one thing to make a intake "look" stock, but have it flow alot. But when you are basicly just using the head flange and small runners, but putting tons of time in it, and it still does not look stock, seems counter-intuitive.

You will be fine with using them wherever.

Sure alot of work for very little noticable gain. A Log manifold with the CORRECT runner size can be made for alot less work. You cannot get 35mm on a stock intake in the runners, and still have it be stable enough. This is cast, and it will get so thin, that it will crack. I have measured lots of stock intakes, and the od of the casting is just over 35 mil. You will never get 278 rwhp out of that manifold NA. POSSIBLY Crank HP, but even that is a long shot. If you want to keep the stock intake look (which you are not doing as you are enlarging the plentum with sheet), then do like MONZTER did and weld up the od of all of the runners, then enlarge the ID.

What does the log look like?

Ok, you cannot bore out all the cylinders and install sleeves in all of the bores. The only way you can do this, is if you weld the sleeves to the top of the block, and to the lower end of the block. If you dont, there is no strength left in the block, and it will flex and break. Rule of thumb, is you cant sleeve to bores next to eachother without welding. And no, you cant just break out your mig welder and weld them in, lol.

It is all about what sort of shop it is also. Alot of shops love the gravy insurence jobs, that pay ALOT more per hour of work then what your paying for the z to get done. Is this a restoration shop?

You want something done right, then do it yourself. Thats my way of doing things.

JeffP, Has been bouncing back and forth between blocks. Even I cant keep up anymore! haha.

And Some of us are not happy with anything more than 4lbs per HP!

No the rules of the crown can be ANY L series Nissan Block. Valve numbers have nothing to do with it. I will just keep uping the boost till I get to my 750+ RWHP. Motor should hold together at 40 PSI.

THe crown may have to be passed to me, here next week