1 fast z

Your going to run cast cams? Why? I would definitly recomend making cam blanks out of 8620 or 9310 and carborize them. I have made quite a few blanks, and this is by far they best way to do it.

Yea, I dont come here too often, and happen to see this thread. The KA head was designed to work on a 600 CC per cylinder motor, and thats why it flows so well stock, and works exceptionally well after being modified. My flow numbers are with STOCK valves. The valve and spring system also works exceptionally well at high RPM. I have no experience with the honda side of things, but when it comes to design and machine work, I can assist if needed.

I guess Ill follow this thread, considering I know a bit about twin cam L series......

700+ RWHP on my twin cam, twin turbo motor spinning 8200 RPM, with stock caps. 7 mains helps a lot compared to other motors. Generally breaking main caps or lower blocks is from some serious detonation.

Make sure they FULLY counterweight it, unlike the stock L ones.

Ah, Ok, makes sense. I havent looked much into the MS3 yet.

I believe the EDIS signal needs a 50% time on and a 50% time off. Those holes you drilled might not produce the correct signal. I could be wrong though.

Hey Guys, I know I haven't been on here in awhile, doesn't mean I'm not into Z's anymore, just that I have been super busy with so many things. I Went back to school (after mech engineering) to get certified in CNC programming and 3d Modeling to better alot of my designs and to make ideas a reality. I own a smaller CNC shop, and that keeps a lot of my time busy. I had 3 kids, bought a house out in the country and that also takes a lot of time. I had 2 boys with my wife, and a third will be here in a couple weeks also! I went to Bonneville this year with a my dad and a couple guys from my shop and set a land speed record in a production class that was pretty exiting. Anyways, I still have the L31dett car, actually got it out today. I usually get the car out about once every couple of months, drive it for a bit, hammer on it, and go sideways at 100 MPH plus then I get the crap scared out of me, and then put it away for another couple months! I actually relocated the EDIS triggering system to the flywheel. I CNC'd the 36-1 notches into the stock lightened flywheel, at the maximum diameter of the inertia ring. What I gained was lot more resolution to the EDIS signal, as well as it made it a pain changing belts with it on the harmonic. It also free'd up some space up front for the clearance of electric fans. I designed a double disc clutch for the car also. I have a Z32 clutch in it, but I break them fairly often. The straps that go from the Pressure Plate to the Clutch Cover end up cracking and breaking. Also it takes so much pressure to hold the power that I have ended up wiping out the LD cranks and thrust bearings in the motor. I wanted to design a clutch that will hold the torque of the DOHC motor, but also be lightweight. My design uses an aluminum CNC'd cover, lightweight floater plate, and lightweight puck disc. I ended up building a new short block with a 87mm bore. I would crack cylinder blocks with the 89mm bore fairly often, so I decided to go down to a 87mm bore and bored the block to compensate to core shift to maintain maximum cylinder thickness. I didn't notice any power drop with the smaller displacement. I have went through 3 sets of 315-35-17 R compound slicks in about 3,000 miles, it likes to eat up tires. I have contemplated making the car AWD to aid in traction issues. The dual fuel pumps seem to be keeping up with the fuel flow, along with a surge tank. I dont know if many of you guys remember my silver 280z that had the stroker NA motor but I wrecked that car pretty bad, and now put that motor in my 1971 240z. My plan is to build a DOHC head for that motor next, and achieve over 400 RWHP NA with a 3.1 liter engine that will rev to 9k plus, and still be streetable. Anyways, Ill post updates as much as I can. Here is a couple pics I took today of the TT car.

Been driving the car 2-4 times a week and is still holding strong. The 800cc injectors are about maxed out with good afr's so will have to add another set or bigger soon.

Ok I will be out of the state until a week from now. I will pm my number though

I could make another one for you Bernard. The most expensive part is the material. I have been running 17 PSI with this setup with no boost creep through 7200rpm. MAKES GOBS of power too.

Either the piston to bore clearence was too tight from whoever built the motor, or the motor got hot at one time and the piston to cylinder clearence got too tight that way. Alot of people try and set forged pistons up to hyper or cast piston clearences, but they have to be about twice as loose at a minimum.

I had a cheap t3/t4 chinese turbo that roased on my sohc Turbo 77 Z. So I had a HE351cw off of a 2005 cummins that I had bought a few years ago at my shop. So I decided to make that one work. I read that most people had problems with the V band situation, on adapting it to a 3" exhaust system. So I programed an adapter on one of my CNC lathes, and made this adapter out of a solid chunk. I also wanted to stay internal wastgate, so I bored out the wastgate hole to 1.0625" ID, and bolted a mount to the compressor housing. The pictures show the air cleaner right on the turbo, but I ended up using a 45 degree silicone elbow, and a 4" tube, and running the air cleaner down lower.

Or, you can just use junkyard maxima TB's like I did years ago.

I run them on custom engines such as the l31 dett motor. They are good because you cam machine them to be an exact continuation of the bore. Therefore no dead spots during combustion to promote detonation. Must run a stainless oring and a receiver groove is recommended for the head.

Yea that was some years ago Tony. Too good of a head and intake, and not a good enough Bottom End!

They are not the same, but you will not notice any difference as far as fuel flow needed for that cam.

I am looking for a good console for a 280z car. Needs to be fairly decent condition, but not perfect. I would like some black door panels for a 280 coupe, with NO speaker holes.

13" Rotors up front. 11.65 in the rear. 4piston willwoods all the way around. 1.375" pistons in the rear. 1.750/1.8750 in the front.

P30 cranks are 260/280 cranks.

I think you will find out that a price that is fair for the work, and the price you can get people to pay is two different things. I have built all sorts of ITB manifolds and log manifolds for guys, and they key is production. If you can build ten or so at a time, to get the cost down, then you will sell. Just like my cylinder head setup. I get two PM's or emails a week, asking if I would build that person a head setup. I say sure I will, Then I tell them I would have to build the complete motor to ensure everything will be setup correctly, then they about die when I tell them it will be about 10k for a complete setup. I can make more money selling lots of 200.00 items than I can selling little of more expensive items. Point is, people will say it is a fair price, but when it comes down to people actually buying, its a different ball game. The common person cannot even fathom how much work it takes to build these custom L series setups. Good luck though.

Yea I saw that stuff. I did not need any of it. I usually have to end up cutting and modifying stuff so much to make it work, that It is just easier for me to build from scratch. Neat stuff though.

Correct, like you I will not cut up or modify the actuall manifold. The old injector ports will now be the map sensor line, boost line, and booster line. I will weld in a bung rail up above the plates pointing bacwards away from the head, so the fuel has to make a turn, for more atomization time. I have three different styles of these manifolds. One like you bought which is BRAND new, and another straight one that is different than this one.