1 fast z

It is a good idea to always heli-coil those bolts holes.

Response from Chris at BHJ. Hello Bryan, Thanks for the email. We have been making the aluminum dual-pulley damper as more-or-less a hopped-up OEM-replacement for many years now and have not heard about any problems, except in cases where the damper has been installed, removed and re-installed onto a crank (or multiple cranks) several times. In cases like that, the aluminum does not return back to size to the degree steel does and that is part of the reason we came out with the new all-steel version. If that is not the case, then there must have been something that came loose at some point to lead to this problem. The majority of our customers are very concerned about weight and that is what led to this damper originally being made with the aluminum outer-ring. It was only recently that we had a request for the steel outer hub and that customer has been installing/removing his damper almost every year since he first bought it and that was the first production version of the part. He is now putting the rebuilt-steel version on a Bonneville car. Sorry, but we can not warranty the damper repair, but we can do the hub replacement on the existing damper, using either the aluminum or steel outer shell (your choice, same price). The steel outer hub is bare steel and will need to be sprayed with clear coat or regular paint to keep it from rusting. Standard hub replacements are $225.00 at Jobber Discount. Thanks for the email and let me know what you'd like to do. If you send it in, I will need to give you an RMA number, so it will be accepted in Shipping. Cheers, Chris @ BHJ

This shows the bearing. Notice the difference in thickness. Here is both sides of the bad bearings. This is what they should look like. Here is what a 450.00 balencer looks like

A bit of an update! Well Then engine had to come back apart again. Multiple problems. The head is actually the most stable part of the build right now, ha. First of all, I installed a Z32 RPS six puck disk and pressure plate about a year ago. The clutch is WAY too much pressure for the thrust bearing in the engine. THe stroker crank is trashed, because the thrust bearing wore completly through and the crank was riding right on the back of the main cap and block. I have always been carefull to not hold the clutch in when I dont need to, ie. when at stop lights, waiting for the flagman at race tracks to wave me on etc. The car needs that much clutch, so I cannot put a weaker clutch. I am in the process of designing a new style thrust bearing that goes inbetween the back of the cranks, right on the flange where the flywheel bolts to, and inbetween the block. Next, The 440.00 dollar harmonic balencer from BHJ has failed. They make the hubs out of alluminum. I should of cought this before I installed the unit. You cannot have a press fit of about .002" from the ID of the harmonic to the OD of the crank snout, with the hub out of alluminum. When that crank and snout and the harmonic hub gets to 200 degrees, you loose all of that press fit, for the reason of material exansion difference in rates between alluminum and steel. From my calculations, it becomes .002" clearence at that temperature. The keyway in the harmonic, and on the crank was both "wallard" out. Once this all happened, the bolt got loose and the harmonic started to walk forward. I use Red high temp locktite, long custom made bolt, Thick 17-4ph stainless custom made washer, and 150 lbs of torque. Once the harmonic walked forward, and the thrust bearing on the crank was wore out, the lower timing chain sprocket mooved so far forward that the double roller custom timing chain had not been straight on the sprocket, and broke the lower timing sprocket, (also custom). I am not sure what you guys with high pressure clutches do for thrust, but the size of the L series thrust washer is REALLY small for high pressure clutches. At the price and availibility of V07 cranks, I cannot afford to keep trashing them. I will post pics on my new thrust design also. It also looks like that with 600 ft lbs of torque and 700 plus RWHP, that the cylinder bores are not staying round, even with an extra thick block. I have sonic tested this block to be an average of .125" walls with an 89mm bore. I am now going with an 87mm bore with another extra thick block, to maintain more cylinder wall thickness for my HP and TQ numbers. Z32 pistons will work great.

That looks like the .080" longer earlier valves.

Well the OP, has got the last set in the country it seems. Luckely I had them on the shelf.

CC them and Mic them. I never get why people try to build motors with internet specs.

You can do it with modifying th breaker plate. Then use a boost pressure canister (baisicly a reverse vacume canister that is stock on the E12 setups) to pull the plate in the retard direction.

Re-surfacing the ones with the divet is usually not a problem. If you have a surface grinder and the correct jig that is. Paul, if you need some ground I could help ya out. I have lots in stock, but I need some too Let me know, I could get you some if you are in a bind.

Ususally I do a .045" wire, with a .032" deep grove.

I went through 4 Walbro 255's HP. I will never buy another. They are junk IMHO.

What sort of orings do you have, and how do they interact with the HG?

Put a fuel pressure guage before the rail. If it is the rail (more than likely not) then you will see a huge fuel PSI before the rail. Then put the guage in the rail, and compare.

For it to leak right away with never beeing started, there is another problem. There is nothing wrong with felpros, especially for never starting. I would look elsewhere.

From the V07 Blocks I have sonic tested (4-5), There is no way you could even get an 87mm bore.

Remember you cannot just bore out a motor, install sleeves with a press fit and be done. The sleves when doing all cylinders, or even adjacent cylinders for that matter on an L series, you have to V out the top and bottom of the block, and actually WELD the sleeves in. You will also have to mill flats on the sleeves between 1,2 2,3 4,5 5,6 as the bore spacing will be way too close to use .125 sleeves. If you dont weld them in, there is no strength left in the block, from top to bottom.

Looks like a naps z manifold. With dual throttle plates.

Tell him to run an electric motor. They have LOTS of torque.

Yes, I did type that wrong, all 75-80 pistons are 2.0, 1.5 rings. 81-83 ALL pistons are 1.5, 1.5.

Actually 75-76 has Dished pistons, 1.5mm top ring, 1.2mm second ring. 75-76 Generally has N42 head. Square Port Ex. NO liners. 77-80 has N47 head. Liners on the ex, which dont hurt flow actually. Same pistons, same combustion chamber as N42. Some Early 77's have N42's. 81-83 NA has P79 head, flat top piston, 1.2mm top ring, 1.2mm second ring. 81-83 turbo has Same amount of dished pistons as 75-80, but has 1.2mm top ring, and 1.2mm second ring.

Yea it does, hardly looks ready to run.

Yes, they are both a 1-1.

Actually it all depends on the head gasket used. You want a "course" surface finish (125 or larger) for a composite style gasket. What it does is help keep the head gasket from moving around on the block, but the coursness is not so much that it lets water leak past. And on the rust thing, if there was a heavy duty assembly lube used on the guides and valve stems, then there is no way it could of rusted, unless submerged in water.