1 fast z
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Posts posted by 1 fast z
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I have 2.5 sets of these "bigger cams" When you get that far, we can maybe work out some sort of trade.
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The original idea came from McAdam. We began discussing the idea, and then we started engineering. He didnt have the abilities to do the machine work and some of the design, so we worked together for awhile. He now lives in Minn. so I have done the EX fab, and Intake fab and timing fab. He is building his own setup up in MINN. now as well, and he is going to have it done by the z car nationals as well.
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Dip stick fits right inbetween number 4 and 5 intake runner, Ill just make an extension for dip stick.
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TURBO AFM's are larger not just ZX's.
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Well many people have been asking so here is some pics.
The pics are CRAPPY as I had to use a backup digital camara, so their blurry but you get the idea.
I finally got my Flexible Exhaust coupler so I can now build the balence tube between both EX manifolds, and incorperate the External Waste Gate.
I havent got as much time to work on it as I would like, but its coming along. Buying a new house takes up too much of my time, LOL, As does being 22 years old and freshly married, LOL.
http://www.bandmzcars.com/Frank3Page.html
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I dont know if I will ever mass produce the custom DOHC head, but I might do a couple one off's for people if they HAVE to have one. Will see how much interest there is in about three months at the Z car Nat's for the unveiling.
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I KNOW 79's and 80's stay on for 17 minutes if the water temperature is at or above 220 deg F after the key is tuned off. I belive ALL zx's were this way.
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HOW is the dampening being done with this dampner? That is the MAIN thing to consider. Rubber? Spring? Fluid?
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http://www.bandmzcars.com/headinfopage.html
Square ports:
05L
E30
E31
E88
N42
P90
P90A
Round Ports:
N47
MN47
P79
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Actually you take 2 KA 24de heads, and slice ONE of the heads DIRECTLY down the middle, and when I say directly I mean directly, you only have about a 15 thousands of an inch curf to deal with . Then you take another head and take off the end cylinders and keep the center two cylinders, then its puzzle time. This is all done on a wire edm machine, to ensure a perfect cut, then the 1/3rds are surface ground to ensure PERFECT flatness and width. Also, they are NOT welded together but rather bolted and doweled together with a Viton oring inside each third to seal. Welding will create too much warpage and make cam bores out of round and alignment, and you cant just line bore the head as the rotater cup bores wont be perpendicular to the camshaft thus they wont turn, and it will wipe out cams and rotaters.
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I will setup a kit of a discount price.
http://www.bandmzcars.com/PartsMainPage.html
Look at that page, and click each picture for prices and info.
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No more Chicago? Your going to UofA full time now?
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I got my 89mm forged pistons in my engine down to 310 grams. I calculated a total of 2.8 lbs out of the recipicating mass from a stock flat top engine.
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Yea, Bigger valves=less port velocity, and port velocity is VERY important, so keep that in mind.
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Here is just a little update on Mcadam's and My project on the DOHC L31DETT. I bought a house recently so that sorta took up alot of my time, haha. Anyways, I fabbed up the intake this weekend. Heres some pics. Volume is more than adiquite from my calculations. Notice the Internal velocity stacks that I did on a manual Bridgeport. The CNC is not communicating with the PC right now, grrrrrrrrr. I WILL be building an ITB setup later but for now, We NEED to get it running and driving by mid APRIL for MSA.
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Heres my porting and stock numbers, and percentage increase. I used STOCK valves so keep that in mind.
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BOOST Nor hp has ANYTHING to do with rod bolt, but rather forces of accelerating and decellerating the piston. So the lighter the piston and the better the rod to stroke ratio the stronger the rod. PLAIN AND SIMPLE, hp and tq has NOTHING to do with rod bolts.
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Yea a SB, with a custom Bottem end, and dual turbos with 1 bar of extra pressure, ya it would be KILLER fast, Impressive too, All im saying is you cant knock someones work till you build something better yourself, so I would LOVE to see someone build a custom motor, and intake and head setup to run 11's on pump gas. I dont have the time to do that right now, for the reason that MCADAM and I, have to have this project done by MSA next year.
Thanks for the interest!
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Well I posted this intake design, well over 6 months ago, so maybe you coppied my design? AND NO, dual plane intakes do NOT have all same volume, I know for a FACT that Edellbrock (sp?) Performer, and performer RPM intakes are NOT all the same volume. So you need to do your research there BUD. You know how many people come on this board in the last to years saying how their building a ITB intake, and do you know how many ACTUALLY do it? VERY few, I put you in the very few catigory, for the reason, that if you have to get everyone elses oppinion, then you dont know what your doing. Oh and BTW, ANYONE can make a turbo car fast, such as your camaro, But lets see YOUR L series engine with ALL of your work done by yourself, and when I say ALL I mean ALL. I mean do your OWN boring, do your own sonic testing, do your own piston designs, do your own piston lightening, do your own honing, do your own rod bushings, do your own crank and piston and rod balencing, do your own poring, do your own intake, do your own custom cam grinds, I could go on forever. So untill YOU build your own setup, and PROOVE it on numerous tracks and in front of many people on this board such as I have, then keep your critisisim to yourself please. LIke Ive always said, they always knock it till they drive it. So I want to see your and only your designs on YOUR own built motor, and lets see track times, to back it up and to make things equal, put sand bags in your car to make it the same mass as mine, then well do some constructive critisism. Ive built over 30 L series heads in the last 1.5 years, for all kinds of motors to restored series ones, to full blown race motors, and all customers have great results, but like you say, I dont have a clue what im doing right? I see now why your friends with bubbles, as he is the most ignorant person on the boards.
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I know that Tony D, said NA cars in Japan ran 11's frequently. I would LOVE to put my motor in a stripped out series one, and see what shell do
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Untill YOU build something BETTER with YOUR own hands, and not just opening up your wallet to someone else to build it for you, you have NO room to talk, got it Bub!
Also, Like said, percentage difference upon air flow is not enough to distingish. Also, what do V8 motors use? Thats right DUAL PLANE INTAKES, are THERE runners all the same lenght NOPE, so wheres your explanation for that one? HMMMMMMMMM. So I guess all V8's make terrible Power too Right? Ok................ I built this intake with my OWN hands, I was 20 years old, and From my oppinion and others who have ridden/driven/seen my car, they can vouch its not too shabby either. At the last autocross event, Jim williams, said (as he was driving my car, and I was a passanger) that It handled like crap, as it did with COLLAPSED coilover springs, but the power was the best hes ever felt for throttle response,/instant tq in a z car thats exactly what he said. I love my work, Im very proud of it, because I built it, and you know what the best part is, is that people knock it, and yet they cant understand why my car runs like it does. It NEVER stops pulling, atelast how far I revved it to. LIke BRAAP said, injectors have alot worse quality controll then my intake does as for FLOW difference. My plugs are all the same brownish color as far as the naked EYE can tell. NO fouling what so ever so I dont know where that came from will.
BUT to have the satisfaction of YOU guys, Ive already got this intake partially built, and Im going to install it and show NO improovements on a TIME SLIP, thats all that matters ISNT IT?
Oh and BTW, Bubbles is also the same guy who got is head ported by a "guy" who used the poor quality controll felpro intake gasket as a guage, he just ported till it matched the intake gasket, as we all know that felpro had done TONS of head flow test, and laminer flow test, and wet test to see what works best then built millions of gaskets to use that principle, RIGHHHHHHHHHHT......... YAWWWWWWWWN!!!!
But hes a pro engine builder that can down talk all the rest of us, UMM, oK.
THis is also the SAME guy who has had to rebuild his STOCK motor 4 times in one year, because he cant keep it together, So who knows what now?
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I am against dyno's personally, as they are SO far out of calibration from one to another, as they should JUST be used as a TUNING tool, and not to compare numbers from one to another, so I dont really agree with the numbers pissing match. I belive cars as a SYSTEM is what tells the truth. That is why I havent dynoed my car. I guess I should because Ive probably been asked a million times "whats it do on the dyno", so I guess this winter I will. If I really wanted to get into this HP match, I would go to Cali, or some other state thats close to sea level and do a dyno pull there? As being at 1500 feet is probably about 10-12 HP. I ran a 12.8 at about 105 MPH at 1500 feet elevation. Car and driver are about 28xx LBS, so I figure about 275 to the ground, but thats MY estimate and DONT hold me to that. Brian510 has a 3.2 liter and his is PRO built by Rebello, and Im just a 21 year old "kid" that built my motor, machine work and all, so many say I dont have a clue what Im doing! Norm has a LIGHT car, that runs 12's he has some decent HP, but he has a 2.9 liter.
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SHOW ME any FI car NA in a full bodied 280z running quicker then me, guess what there IS NONE, and there definitly isnt any with as little of cam as I have, bubbles, you dont have a CLUE what your talking about, you dont have a CLUE how to build motors, you dont have a clue, PERIOD. You DONT know how to build motors (cough 4 times BASIC rebuild in a year). If you think about it, I have the ONLY 280z that I know of state side ofcourse, and people on the boards ofcourse, that runs as quick as I do. Guess what I probably have 20% the cost in my car/motor then you do, yet your a FULL SECOND (full second is equivilent to about a HUNDRED HP for the same weight and since I have about 300 LBS over you, I have what 130 HP over you). So to some up, My intake works GREAT every one that has ridden, or heard my car, or seen it can vouch for that. Ask TONYD, ask GEARHEAD, ask IAN, Ask Jim WIlliams, Ask Mcadam, etc. All I know is that I designed and built MY OWN INTAKE, where did you get yours, oh yea you BOUGHT yours, So that makes me VERY proud of my work, and Its a BLAST to DAILY drive. I love it, im sorry you dont.
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Usually skirt length is determined by the manufacture, and they fit it into the piston after all of your other dimensions are met. As for ring thickness, I would use a dual chrome steel setup, with 1.0-1.2mm compressin rings. I would also use a 3mm thick oil controll ring. Place them as far down the piston as feasably possible, as this will protect them from detonation. MAKE sure you get an exact reverse dome to YOUR exact P90 head. This needs to be done by getting a thick dome on your piston, which you need to specify to your piston manufacture. So say you need a 12cc dish, you calculate the area of the P90 chamber then calculate the volume needed for that area to get 12cc's then that will be how thick you need the dome. REMEMBER you need atleast .200 thick in big areas on the piston and about .150" in SMALL areas, or you will burn a hole in a piston. As for pins, with that big of diameter pin I would go with a .090" wall tool steel wrist pin. I would recomend double true arc rings (internal snap ring) for the pistons. Thats just some of my advice and experence, and I use these guidlines to build my motors.
just an idea (MAF question) (pretty sure a waste of tiem)
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Last MS install took me 3 hours, with soldering everything. Tuning took me 20 minutes, and the customer was happy with what he got. ITs really not that hard.