1 fast z
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Posts posted by 1 fast z
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Yes I HAVE already had an ITB manifold using the Maxi TB's for over 2 years now.
Here is one of the ones I have built:
THis is the one on MY personal car.
My full bodied 280z runs 12.8's with this setup on pump gas!
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Eh, I own a C scale rockwell tester also, I could verify results if need be.
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http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s130/2/c08.gif
Carfiche only appears to list one conrod for both L28E and L28ET.
Dave
Yep, sure enough. They wouldnt need to use a different rod for the low boost turbo cars, when 600 HP is done on stock rods, and they knew about that one before 1981. Same rods on ALL L28's
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Ok, I took some rods to my ex-jobs engineering department, and looked through a high powered microscope at NA and TURBO rods, NO difference. So I have prooved as far as I can, I would love to see evidence of this so called all turbo rods are shot peened.
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All 280z rods are the same, 75-83 all models. Sorry Daw.
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I actually went to my shop today and compared a n42 set of rods and a F54 set of rods, and no sign of shot peining.
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Turbo rods are not shot peened, thats a new one, LOL. ALL L28rods are the same. EXACTLY.
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Ok, heres the differences:
NA 75-80 Pistons have a 10cc dish, with both compression rings being 2mm thick.
81-83 ALL pistons have 1.5mm top compression ring, and 2mm second ring.
81-83 pistons, move the ring lands down about 1.5mm deeper in the bore compared to the earlier pistons.
Compression ratios with ALL dish pistons, NA, and turbo are the same.
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The Grease is a little hard to make out when compared to Dykem which is what I use. Yea for a daily street driver I use a centered patturn. For all of my TOP performance customers and myself, I use a closer to the pivot wipe patturn. The closer to the Pivot the wipe patturn is, the noiser the cam will be also, but yeild more performance. ALWAYS check EACH rocker IMHO. You never know what sort of valve job was done before, so always check. Looks good though.
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The links just ask for a zip code, dont know what thats about. MY hoses are not generic hoses, they are not your cheopo autozone ones, I have recipts that show 42.00, sorry if you dont like it.
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" I also think having an aluminum radiator bolted to the frame is the wrong answer for a daily driver. "
Radiator is not hard mounted, do your research before your internet parroting, THANK YOU. Its grommeted, and My car is DAILY driven, to the extent. My motor puts out TONS of torque, (it does run 12's in the 1/4) And Works great. Do your research again, as my hoses do NOT cost your so called 15.00 they are 42.00 MY COST, And I dont think 50.00 is too much to ask for that profit margin. I have tons of room to run any fan in front or behind my radiator, but I choose to keep as many things OUT of the engine compartment as possible, as its clutterful. Why would any supplier tell where they, how they, or get there products, its called buisness! Sorry you had so much trouble with your setup, sorry, you have to come on a online forum and attack people for your mistakes. Its pretty bad when a guy cant even find his own hose, much less build a car. Good luck though, and remember dont get but hurt when a supplier wont give you all of those secrets, and when they dont, be sure to NOT make claims saying you know what cost what, etc.
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Yea you wouldnt need to hot tank again, as hot tanking is to remove oil and residue. You will just need to use some sort of solvent to get any chips out, then wash and re-wash and you will be good to go. Ive had to wash motors as much as three times before, so dont feel bad, haha.
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You will need to drill for 3/8" pipe, and tap and leave 7 threads on the tap for the correct taper, or about 2/3 the length of the tap. NO you cannot just stuff paper in there, as the front number one main oil hole is only about 3/8-1/2" from the front of the block, and unless you block that hole, you WILL get chips in your main galley to the number one main. Why do you have to tap? If I were in your position I would just insert the press in plug, although it is better to have removable galley plugs, but since your motor is already complted you might as well, just use the press in style.
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And if you notice that I say PERCENTAGE DIFFERENCE, not flow numbers, Im just curious about the percentage increase. I respect your work a BUNCH braap, so dont get me wrong im just curious. As we are basicly the only two head builders that talk about this stuff online, im just curious thats all, but work LOOKS GREAT. Im actually in the process of using our new CNC to re-face all valve seats, Im in the process of building a jig to do the work now, and I think it will work great.
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Agreed, everyone knows you cant tell everything from flow numbers, as it is a static system. BUT it does give an idea, and some flow benches tell velocity as well, which is key in engine dynamics. Percentage difference of before and after figures is important though. It may not tell the whole story but it sure tells alot. So do you not flow test your heads at all? Im just curious. I do NOT just use flow numbers in my head building either but it is something to tell you and give you an idea of whats going on, and to let the customer know the same information. I use the Track to do My testing as well.
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If ya would of purchased one of my radiators, You could of had hoses and the radiator ready to bolt in for only 325.00
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Yea Paul, Im curious about the percentage difference between before and after. Do you have any Percentage difference numbers on some of your heads paul?
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Nope, LOTS of P90-a's stateside have solid lifters. I own three myself, and One I personally pulled off of a zxt. Late 82 zxt's have P90-a's with solid lifters. My 12 second NA 280z uses a solid lifter P90 a. Looks good though Braap.
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It will only plug up cats, if its leaded, I dought it is. It will also only shorten the life of the O2, not ruin it instantly. I use leaded gas with my WB, numerous times and still havent ruined it.
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~20 degrees relative to the runner is a good choice. Optimum is directly down the runner.
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Good Ole Solidworks, Ive been using it as an engineer for about 2.5 years now. I use it to compute alot of intake resonance calculations as well as balencing, etc. Heres a shot of my current ITB solidworks:
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I would bet that you NEVER heard back from Jim Wolf, and if you did, they couldnt give you a answer could they?
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Yea, I HAVE personally SONIC tested two LD blocks, with my Certified Sonic Tester. I was getting a .150" Reading in ALOT of areas of the cylinders, and that is towards the top of the bore, and in the middle, there is NO way, atleast on the two blocks I have tested that you can bore 7mm!! Ok, so to bore 7mm, That means that the walls need to be a MINIMUM of .093 thou for a cyldinder wall thickness, AFTER boring. So 7mm/2= 138 thou of wall thickness removed. Therefore, you would need .138 PLUS .093= .231", for a MINIMUM, and thats NA, for Boosted I wouldnt run anything under .130" so your talking atleast 267 thousands of an inch for cylinder wall thickness as a MINUMUM in ALL bores. Yea folks thats not gonna happen, I have like 5 blocks now, I dont want to tear down three of them as they are COMPLETE right now, and no need to tear them down for checking as Ive already checked two. Only way this can be done, is for sleeves to be installed. Now what is the Bore centers on a L series 96mm on 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, and 5-6. And On 3-4 is 98mm. So stock bore is 84.5 on Ld Correct? So your talking 7mm over is 91.5mm bore, and 83 stroke, that puts you at 3.27 liter. Where is the 4mm Come into play? Yea see, just doesnt add up.
So with a 96mm Bore center, 91.5 bore, you get 4.5mm/2= 2.25 bore thickness between cylinders, which is about 89 thousands of an inch, BETWEEN CYLINDERS, if ALL cylinders are Siameesed. And you CANT Siameese sleeves, and that is TOO thin for comfort. Doesnt add up does it.
So how did the 4 liter come into play? Ok, so a reground crank say 1mm that is offset would give 84mm for a stroke, then you would need 100MM bore, YEA RIGHT, You dont have me fooled for ONE second.
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Let me know on the head. I can work with ya on whichever direction you want to go. I could even give you a ride, or let you drive my monster stroker z with ITB's and all the goodies
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Custom fuel injection "kit", any interest?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Race motor is qualified by RACE gas motor in my book. I run this on crappy 91 octane fuel. I run a MILD 270 duration 470 lift cam, yea thats WAY mild for a 3.1 with this head work. That was the last time I ran it, it was HOT, etc. My motors are built to LAST unlike we can say for yours as youve built yours what 4 times in 1.5 years, and yet you dont do the work you PAY people to do it. Untill you do ALL the work yourself please keep your comments to yourself. Thanks.