1 fast z
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Posts posted by 1 fast z
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"Two concerns with these 1982-84 Maxima rods are the [smaller] piston pin diameter of 20.0mm (all the other L series rods have 21.0mm) and the use of the weaker 8mm diameter rod bolts."
Pshhh, Youll need full floating wrist pins anyways, and you can add a 22mm Wrist pin, in a maxi rod.
And the rod bolt scenerio, 9mm ones are easily insertable as well.
Yes Im not talking length here, im talking Diameter of the journal.
It can be done.
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Maxima rods are 5mm smaller than L series.
You do the math.
83 plus 5= Uh, Oh. 88mm stroke with a 89mm bore. WOW.
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He used a external radius cutter, or corner cutter, or corner rounder, etc. Just different names for the same cutter. Ive used alot of them personally. Looks great BTW. I think Our shop is gonna be purchasing a CNC VERY soon actually, so I can get things done faster. I do ALOT on a bridgeport, but three D profiling, is a bit tough, lol.
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This is from my website
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What makes you think there not opened up as it is? I get about 50 percent better than stock flow with the exhuast. Remember you cant go by looks on a port
.Heres a P90 graph, and I actually got more out of this maxi with the liners still in it.
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Here is some quick shots of a MN47 cylinder head that I ported and rebuilt and installed a aftermarket cam, with checking all the wipe patterns and what not. Flow numbers were approximetly 219 on the intake at 28" of water pressure, and 156 on the exhuast.
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Here is some pictures of the radiator in the car that I described above. I drove the car all the way to California for the MSA show on this radiator, in 100 pluss degree heat.
Notice the PERFECT fitment of the hoses!
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I am the owner of bandmzcars. I persoally build the radiators. I have one in my daily driven 3.1 liter, 12-1 compression daily driver. I Live in PHOENIX, AZ, and it has hit 105 degrees daily for the past two weeks, and my motor sits right at 180 degrees with a 180 thermostat when cruising, and when sitting in traffic, it hits 185. I recomend buying the entire kit, as it comes with perfect fitting hoses, no flex hose, no trying to go out and source hoses, etc. I dont really make money on the hoses I just wanna offer them to customers if they need them. I pay 42.00 MY cost for the hoses, and sell them for 50.00 so It barely covers my hassles. You can purchase the radiator without the hoses, and that cost is 275.00 with the needed bolts, and nuts. Or 325.00 with everything including hoses. We also have this radiator on a couple other peoples cars, including high HP turbo cars, and it cools great.
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I use chevy camaro ARP studs in my car. They are 12x1.5 also so more lug nut availibility.
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UMMMMMMMMMM, you didnt look at delta and isky hard enough. I have orderd cams from both of those suppliers with those specs. Delta has a .500 296 duration cam, and a 550 303 cam.
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Yea I made the camber adjustments down low, on the lower control arms, rather than the camber plates, camber plates are set in the POSITIVE psoition and then all I have to do is slam them in at the most negative position and it gives it about 2.5 degrees more camber. That way everything is easy to dial in at the track.
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I wanted the Tires to have the SAME clearence, therefore thats why I measured to wheel wells. Car looks DEAD level to the naked eye, so I think it will work good. Why didnt I put more caster or camber? Cause this car is driven about 20 thousand miles a year on the street. I dont want a car that is hard to steer (more caster) or a REALLY touchy steering wheel (more caster). I dont want to wear out a set of 800 dollar tires every two months (camber). PLUS I have the adjustable camber plates ALL the way to the positive position, that way when I run autocross events, etc, I can just slap the wheels all the way in at the top (negative), and it gives it 2.5 more degrees of negative camber.
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Yea so finally got the suspension all the way complete and the car back on the ground this last weekend. I got the Camber, and tow pretty close on my own with a good level style protracter, like within .2 Degrees. Tow was pretty dang close as well, within a 16th of a inch. So I go to sears with my buddy andy, who works there and we spend some time on the hunter computer alignment rack to get everything EXACTLY correct. We first set Rear camber, then tow. Then we proceed to Front Camber, which was perfect, then caste, which was off about .5 degrees, then we do front tow.
So I got my car to these wanted specs:
Front:
Tow= .13Deg per side
Caster=3 degrees
Camber=1.1 degree
REAR:
Tow= .1 degree
Camber=.7 degree
Caster= Do I HAVE 4 wheel steering, LOL.
Man My car used to be WAY out like DEGREES when the last time we checked it, but since we didnt have a way to adjust it with the stock suspension, couldnt do much about it, and the car used to dog track like CRAZY now, PERFECTLY straight down the road. NICE.
The Arizona Controll arms are a MUST In my opinion. For 1200 bux for ALL four corners, its a must for sure in my books.
Oh BTW, I did set ride height before anything, and I set it at 25.5" from the ground to the apex of the wheel well.
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Look at what Ive built, this lets it piviot on the bearing without any bind.
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This car is driven DAILY, this is NOT only an autocross car, only sees like three autocross events a year. I need to clear speedbumps, etc. therefore cannot have a ground scrapper.
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nice setup. did you screw the threaded tube to the strut to stop it from rotating?
Yep, only to keep the sleeves from rotating. Yea, all this stuff is arizona z cars setups.
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NO, I lengthend the Rears 1.56" and left the stock fronts. These are 240 strut tubes in a 280. I am using azzcars springs, etc. 250 Lb/in.
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Heres some pics, info on the website about the setup. I have the rears done as well, but no pictures.
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Ok, so I have a 3.1 liter 12-1 TONS of head flow (225 cfm intakes, 145 ex) and .580 valve lift and 286 adv duration, ITB manifold, with MS, etc. I have been running a regular ole 1.5" primary heder with a straight 2.5" ex. I have planned to run the 1.75" nismo header. With probably a 3" exhaust, for simplicity reasons. Do you think the Nismo header will show any noticable gains?
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Does anyone know the rate of the TOKICO red springs that come in the kit they sell. I want to get a baseline for what they are so I know how much they differ from like a 250 IN/LB coil over spring as far as stiffness.
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Ok, So I wire it JUST LIKE THIS CORRECT? Only thing I dont understand is the pullup and pull down resistors.
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Yea, SO Im tired of my car beeing all outta alignment. It has rear tow problems, and camber, caster, blah blah blah. So I was gonna make my own adjustable control arms, but never got around to it, and time is short till MSA so I just went with the Arizona Z car stuff. GOOD stuff, HIgh Quality. I should be installing next week. Heres some pics.
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Ok, I am pretty familer with Fuel part of MS, but have no experience with the spark feature. I will be running a 82-83 turbo dizzy in my 77. Do I wire it like in the moby sticky? Even though it says for a 3.0 board? Does anyone have a file with spark for a stock L28 ET? I am running MSnS V2.2. 02s49.
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With our bore size you should be between 4 and 5 though, UNLESS your boosted then make it 5-7 thou. Remember its the HEAT and EXPANSION rate that determines the clearence. Ive seen motors with as much as NINE thou. Remember, .0005" too tight will NEVER work, as will result in scuffing. but .002" clearence will ALWAYS work. Keep that in mind. On my last NA stroker, I ran .0045 on all bores.
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LD28 Rods
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I have a few sets but I have long rod plans also, but mine are going to be lightened in non structeral places.