1 fast z
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Posts posted by 1 fast z
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P90A can be solid, as I have three of them myself!!! The majority of P90A's are hydro, but there are a few amount that are solid, which are exactly identical to the P90's.
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WHEN WILL YOU GUYS STOP USING THAT CRAPPY SOFTWARE!!! It is NEVER accurate. Stock pistons are .016" above the deck in stock form.
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This is a nismo unit.
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I am needing to know what the diameter and thickness is of RB26 cam bucket shims. Also, I am pretty sure that 26 engines are solid lifter, and 20's are hydro? Is this correct? Are 25's solid also? And lastly, where do you get aftermarket shims?
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No crazy articulation pics yet, but it used to wheel pretty good even with the IFS, untill clifton took me on some crazy stupid rocks!! LOL. But I know own a solid axle that will be installed sometime after MSA. THis is also a turboed 3vze, only other one other than cliftons that I know of.
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If you want an LD manifold, Ive got a "few". Shoot me a PM and well talk. As for aftermarket Intakes. Heres one Ive built, and run for three years now.
Daily driven 3.1 liter, that used to run 12.8's in the 1/4 mi, in a 2800 lb 280z. I picked up about 20 more horse with the new cam, so probably mid 12's by now.
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No Read my post again. FOUR 17-4 PH tie bolts go the length of the head that pass through 4 hollow dowells on each third to hold it in the latteral direction.
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Those are old pics in that thread, non of that holding/clamping mechanisim is going to be in the build. There are 4 long tie bolts going the length head, which is 17-4 PH stainless, for a high yeild strength. They are doweled together using hollow dowels, in ears that come off the thirds of the head. Ill post pics this weekend, of how it works. As for a tranny, I am going to be using a Z32 tranny, but IM going to see if I can get the ZXT T5 tranny to hold as long as I can. That weld is the finished product. Ive welded a "few" intakes, and never had a problem, so For now no grinding. NO time for that, LOL.
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Ok, Heres an update for this evenings work. I got the box built for the intake, as well as throttle body plate for the Q45 throttle body. Also got the end plate made with four NPT taped holes for boost guages, megasquirt, Vacume booster, etc. I also picked up a set of 683cc injectors BRAND new for 270 bux today, so I had to throw those in the pics, haha. I will build the fuel rail tomorrow, then the intake is done. The head will come back of the car tomorrow, for good till it goes in for good, as I need to finish the motor and head now. Valve job, porting, yada, yada, yada. Anyways, Enjoy!
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One thing that I will add to Tony's comment is, that Boost means nothing. Its CFM, FLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW. A Gt35R turbo on 5 lbs of boost can have the equivilent of a T3 at 15 PSI. I HATE it when people relate everything to boost. Its CFM flow, that can be determined by a compressor map. Jeff's motor has a different turbo. SO the cfm he had with his old turbo at 28 PSI is probably about the cfm flow of his new GT35R turbo at 20 PSI.
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NO, NO, NO, thats just a MOCK UP BLOCK! LOL. the real block is a 3.1 bored setup, oringed, deck, forged, arp, blah, blah, blah. That block is just in the car for mockup purposes only. Not the block im going to be using, LOL.
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Heads are oringed, in the center two cylinders, then 4 tie bolts clamp all thirds together. Dowels alligning them ofcourse.
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When Was I ever needing someone to make cams for me? I was never looking. McAdam and I have had that figured out for years now. Heres some pics of cams installed.
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Ok, so look here for updates every couple days As Ill just keep adding to this thread for my updates of my progress on the L31DETT RHD car. I got the intercooler installed, as well as the alluminum radiator. I got the charge pipes from the turbo's to the intercooler finished. I had to weld on new inlets on the intercooler, for my application. I had to make an entire new intake. I did not have as much room as I thought I would have on the right hand side of the car. So I had to fab up a new one today. I have to make the weld on my box yet, and Flanges, for the Q45 TB, but that will go pretty quick. I got the waste gate installed, and dump tube to the exhaust mocked up as well. I also got the balence tube between the two ex manifolds with a flexible coupler installed also. I will get the charge pipes made up into alluminum eventually, but for now its all about getting it running. Man Im almost tempted to gundrill the intake, and insert a throttle shaft with butterlfys
. Anyways enjoy, and expect more pics in a couple days!-
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Yes MSnS EDIS, MS2. Also, It will have a z32 trans, I bought the last adapter that 240hook had for sell, should be here on monday.
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Just a few pics of my fairlady project. I pretty much have a month off from work, and can work on the car full time, just to get it done for the West Coast Z car Nationals. Ive got the down pipes made, as well as the joint pipe from both down pipes to the single three inch pipe. I have the head on there just for mockup, as well as a mockup block. The real block which is a forged 3.1 liter setup, is too clean to use for mockup
. Ive got the twin turbo intercooler also, and will be plumbing that tomorrow with the intake as well. And here is the SECRET brake setup. 5 lug, 13 inch rotors by 1.25" thick and 11.687" od by .81" thick rotor for the rear with four piston wilwood superlite calipers all the way around. 1.875" four piston calipers up front and 1.375" four piston calipers in the rear. If im gonna be going fast, I gotta be able to stop, hehe.
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Yea the runners are 35mm Id, compared to the stock EFI stuff which is 30mm ID. I havent run it yet, I actually built it for a customer, who wants a engine to look "stock somewhat" to the Emissions Nazi's, and didnt want a custom sheet metal intake.
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Clears the hood fine, and strut tower.
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Like I have heard from another reputable porter, Even without a flow bench, as long as your customers keep coming back for your work, and they like what their purchasing, thats all that matters. I have the same reasoning, if your customers love your work, they love how it performs, and you have proof to back up your work, what else matters?
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True there is much more to consider, I have HUNDREDS of runs down the 1/4mi track, to backup my work.
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NEW standard is 28 inches, not 25 anymore, BUT it DOESNT matter what were talking about as for PRESSURE, as one should always have a graph plotted, of before and after results on the SAME flow bench for percentage increase reasons. It should show ALL lifts, all the way to .650". Heres some of my early work.
My customers recive a excell spread sheet with all of the test and pressure numbers, and percentage increase.
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Stock is 176 out of the intakes. Yea thats not a big percentage increase, but he should of stated stock numbers, so we know percentage increase on the same flow bench. I get about 225 cfm, on a 176 stock port. I see why it didnt sell.
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I stock every L series head that will bolt on a L series Block. So let me know what you need.
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Definitly the Fastest Z to ever run at Speedworld I bet, and on pump gas and street driven, AMAZING!
. Anyways enjoy, and expect more pics in a couple days!
Piston Pins, Pressed...Full Floating..Trying New Technology!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Ill put my two cents in.
The MAIN purpose to the performance advantage to a full floating pin, is that if you get the frictions somewhat equal when the engine is warmed up, ie. the piston pin bores as well as the rod end bushing, you dont have to accelerate that wrist pin between rotating cycles. Basicly the pin "CAN" just stay neutral and not move at all, and let the piston and connecting rod do the moving, as they have to. Also, as for piston pin bushings walking, that is a problem with the machinest who installed them. They NEED to have a .003" interference fit between the rod end and the od of the bushing. They need to be loctited with Green loctite sleeve retainer. I have seen a few rods that were just run on the forged rod end, bare metal, and have seen them fail by different machine shops.
I just got done doing the rods for my L31dett motor, and yes it time consuming, but worth it. You also cant just use any old bushing material, I use alluminum bronze, which is VERY tough at resisting "squish" force, basicly its a very high PSI rated material. Here is a picture of my bushings I installed on one of my stroker engines
I only install ONE oiling hole for strength reasons, and works great.
ALso about pins, on a NA engine and some boosted engines, I always use a .090" wall A-2 tool steel pin for strength and lighteness.
Also, I always use double true arc retaining rings, as I have never had a system like that fail.
Thats just my two cents.