EvilC

Nice car.....two local Z events coming up: http://nyzcc.com/viewforum.php?f=3

Fig'd out that the relay wasn't making good connection all the time to the board itself causing the ECU to drop signal while downloading files to it. The help guide was great and it took a while going through it and beyond to test all conenction points but it clearly let us know there was an issue with power to the ECU. Got that squared away and I ran out of time, the last issue before start up was the no signal to the tach - so no sparky to make the engine run. Hopefully JR you can get that going soon.....car has been sitting for too long! Gotta get you hooked up with local Z guys for some events!

Just finished the check of the serial port cable. Verified it was a straight through cable. Got ground signal on pin 5, however did not get it on pin 9. Also did not get 5V on pin 1. On the U6 MAX2323 chip there is no 5V signal from any of the pins, there for I am going back to check the DB37 connection into the ECU and verify what each pin out is suppose to be................

MSII users - I am down here in NC visiting JR (flames) for the weekend and trying to quickly learn MS to get this car fired up today before I fly back to NYC. The car had been sitting for alomst 1.5 yrs now and was running last. Since I have been here, we cleaned up some wiring and fixed some fuel issues. The car needed a new battery and when we went to start the car I realized there wasn't any spark. The car ran last when parked. JR followed his exact steps in post 1 and here we are again.....no start and no lights from the ECU. I have verified, all fuses are good, relays are good, serial port works, power to the ecu connector BUT no I am searching and looking how to verify power on the board. We don't have a stim here to help check the ecu. Huge learning curve here for me so I am going to check the chips next. What I am comfused about, if we load the firmware using downloader 2.0 and the serial port is connected to nothing.....it shows as if it is downloading to something. The verification comes back as A. If we connect the serial port to the ECU, same exact result. So I am guess the loader isn't even seeing the ECU......will update later.

Delay the Daily = DD SC the Z! If you do it, I will think about it =P lol

Just place the order Joe!

Thanks guys! Here is the next project - the ford ring clocked in the wrong position and pressed onto a datsun crank that had been turned down for a nice tight slip fit. I have the entire crank in my freezer because I plan to remove the ring with some heat and a press I have access to. Once I am able to get it off, I can place the ring in the right direction. If not, got an idea from Cygnusx1 - remove a tooth and add one to the ring....slick idea. BTW - still have the V8 car RebekahsZ =P

I drove the joes car with the PS and I think it is great! Would love to take it on some back road drives so I can get a real sense of feedback through the wheels. If you can swing the $1500 it is a great investment.

Yeah - I bought his linkage and we spent sometime getting it together. The problem wasn't his linkage, the TWM manifold requires some mods {minor} for the Webers to work. Leon thought you would like this pic

So I finally read this post........ My clutch issue was MY error on install. I wasn't aware I needed to check if the slave cylinder needed to be shimmed. When I did the swap the second time I lost the shim I had and didn't install it which led to my clutch failing. Here are some things I would like to see you do - 1. Put the car in 1st gear with your foot all the way down on the clutch. Check to see if your car is creeping forward. This will tell you the clutch is or isn't fully disengaged. 2. Recheck the specs of the clutch - to me it sounds like the clutch slave is not pushing all the way down on the fingers of the pressure plate. Meaning the slave needs to be shimmed. I am using a RAM HD clutch and love it. I drive the car very hard and the clutch failure was my fault. As far as dirty fluids, mine doesn't stay clean for very long. Report back and we take it from there.

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/23/Home.html But buy directly from Roger - Send an email to sales@ezpowersteering.nl Roger will hook you up. Great guy to deal with. He will answer all of your questions by the next day due to the time difference. Energieweg 21A 4143 HK Leerdam Netherlands Phone is 0345 633 551

Wow 4 hours install! LMAO

Contact RAGS about his v8 74 260z

Leon will do! Thanks for the kind words! Can't wait to fire this thing up!

So a few days later and here are some updates: First picture shows my notes I took right on the head - checked lash clearance and check lash pad sizes. This was done in conjunction with double checking the wipe pattern of the cam lobe on the rocker arm. When complete, the head was relubed and finally closed up. ARP head bolts torqued to spec (60lbs) and just did another check of all bolts on the head. Since I will be running MegaJolt I wanted to mock up the header and intake on the engine to see how much room I have to work with because I have to tap the runners to pull a vaccum source for the MegaJolt that has an internal MAP sensor. Well in doing so a few issues were caught last night. First is, I have to ditch the turbo oil pan and you a NA pan because the oil pan breather sits way too close to the header, easy fix and already cleaned and painted another pan. Second issue was, the 5 fat washers that hold the exhaust mannifold and the intake mannifold down into place once you tighten them up was not working out. The intake flange and the header flange were not even so had to grind down have of each washer to make a step in it. This way once tightened down both mannifolds would seal against the gasket. Last issue found last night which I have to to some research on, the last weber carb hits the tower on the mannifold. Also looks like I have to reverse the pivot to make it work with the rod....hmmm. Will update when I find new info today on how to tackle that problem. So far it is coming along, the details are the killer but will make the difference with the end product. Diggin the look! Exhaust came in the mail, thanks Inline6! Got a killer deal on a new clutch and AL flywheel, came yesterday also in the mail. It is a great feeling when the boxes from USPS, FEDEX and UPS start to go away!

Because I already have a v8! Plus I wanted to learn to build an engine....L30 coming soon.

Nice DD!

Found it: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SMEC07C/17-8046 looking thru parts list tonight.....has to be cheaper at local dealer, lol.

Thanks akeboshi!

pm sent, thanks

Anyone out there stop their build? Looking for EDIS mounting bracket and hardward - like what member Derek was selling. Also looking for L series crank setup with trigger wheel to work with EDIS. Let me know, thanks!

Looking for a dip stick tube that goes into the block, I lost the one that the machine shop removed from my block. Thanks

So yesterday put in a lot of hours getting the engine to the point where I need a few odds/ends and she is complete. Pulled the head back off yesterday to give a final wipe down and double checking everything. Here is a pics of the lower half of the L30 with the 1mm HG: After reinstalling the head with the ARP head bolts - I reinstalled the E31 spary bar just to make sure the cam is well oiled. I am running a 280zx turbo oil pump: Front cover complete - timing set, all gaskets seal up nice and a must have is a SS bolt kit when putting one of these together. It makes assembly super easy and clean. Also it just pops well against the new parts: Also added new SS studs and bolts for intake and exhaust: It is nice having a spare engine to steal parts from because I def lost 2 years ago small odds and ends. Next picture shows the engine flipped over and I was getting ready to install that metal shield that goes over the mesh for the breather tube. Def easier to do this with the crank out. Also had to rotate the engine a few times to check clearence, don't want to have to pull the oil pan to fix that later. Also gave a final check to make sure there were no nuts and bolts or just debris in the block after working on it for a few hours. Once that was complete, wiped the block face down where the gasket would be and went to town sealing it up! So the one major item I am missing right now is.......a dip stick tube! Machine shop removed mine and I have no clue where it is now. The spare engines tube got messed up when I tried to remove it. Progress is being made and hope to have the engine completely sealed up in a week. Waiting on header I bought from a Hybridz member and then I can mount the Weber 45s and see the BIG PICTURE! Next -

That thing looks great! Joey local turbo M, lol: http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3276701661.html

Jason I hear you.....