Kevin Shasteen

Which Edelbroch Heads? Port Cfm? Chamber cc's? Dish or Dome Pistons; what are the cc's of the Dome/Dish of that piston? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Is this what you were looking for? Diameter = ((SQRT(Displacement x 1900)/Primary Tube Length X Max.Rpm's or Primary Length = ((Displacement x 1900/(Diam^2 x RPM)) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Labrat, I'm not aware of any formula for using the Ring End Gap as the deciding factor of what your Piston to Cyl.Wall Clearance should be; simply due to the fact that the ring and piston are of two seperate metal alloys which will have two seperate rates of expansion and contraction. The pistons are not perfectly round-they are to the naked eye but not to a micrometer. Your cylinder wall is pretty close to a perfect circle after the machining process and your rings will conform to your the cylinder bore; not the other way around. If you know of another way-please let us know. As far as piston to cyl.wall clearance goes; that "KB-Performance Pistons" site that GrumpyVette gave has a diagram on it of just about any clearance any engine piston will ever need; good site to read and re-read. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Labrat, Your question is not as easily answered as one might think as there is no real "Quick-Rule of Thumb" for piston to cylinder clearances. There are many variables that determine what your piston to cylinder wall clearances should be as well as your piston [ring] to cylinder wall clearances should also be. Now having said that there are no real rules of thumb, there are some hard fast rules (to be considered in general rules) and they are: Piston To Cylinder Wall Clearances: 1)Chevy's Cast Alluminum a)Street Use: .0015-.0025" 2)Chevy's Forged a)Street Use: .004-.006" b)Competition Use: .0055-.0065" 3)Chevy's Hypereutectic a)Street Use: .0015-.0020" 4)TRW's Hypereutectic a)Street Use: .0015-.0020" 5)TRW's Forged a)Street Use: .003-.0055" b)Competition Use: .0055-.0065" The Ring Gap: 1) Top Ring: .004" for every Cylinder Diameter Inch 2) 2nd Ring: .003" for every Cylinder Diameter Inch 3) Oil Rings: Low Tension -vs- High Tension. Low tension is for Drag Racing while High Tension is for Street usage and Auto Cross. The determining factors are not only how the piston was mfg'd (Cut by the mfg's Lathe) but also what material (alloy) was used: cast, forged or hypereutectic ect. ect. The same goes for the piston rings; what material are the rings made of(?). The reason for such an evasive answer is simply that each material has a different expansion rate than another material. The ring gap and the piston clearance will depend on the instructions of the mfg'er. You may want to talk to a local machinest in your area. Or call one of the many performance venders tech lines for answers on the pistons and rings they sell. Or, you could go to your local book store & just skim thru the chapters on Pistons in some of the "How To" performance books: this will give you a good idea of what is acceptable -vs- not acceptable. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

ZFan, Dont look at it as if "You've Chosen The Wrong Cam". Instead look at it in a sence of, "What is Optimum Performance For Your Goals & Required Needs". Mike illuded to it when he asked if this is a street driven car. Your engine really is a nicely set up engine. 355's w/your components of choice are excellant performers. What you have to decide is: 1) Do you want a heavy hitting Street-mobile 2) Are you willing to give up Low Rpm Power for High Rpm HP 3) What is acceptable Performance From your questing which initiated this thread it appears you have built a heavy street engine/car. So it is the later two questions that you now are now pondering. Your cam's overlap is only 71*'s overlap; that really is borderline too much for a true street engine whereby one expects peak torque to come in to play around 3000-3500rpm's providing one wanted an [even-keeled] power band as opposed to a [peaky] power band. The 70*-75*'s overlap figure is considered a heavy hitting Street Engine's Cam and one many Oval Track Racers begin with. Your duration is also a duration that is on the Borderline of too much for a street engine; AKA: Heavy Hitting Street Engine/Moderate Race Cam. Anytime one chooses a cam whose duration exceeds 260 or 270 then you can expect to lose low rpm power in exchange for high rpm power. Your 355 V8 currently has somewhere between 10:1 SCR (Static Compression Ratio) up to a 10.3:1 SCR. Your cam's IVC (Intake Valve Closing) occurs at 70*'s ABDC. This IVC rate actually requires a higher SCR of around 11:1 for optimum low end power. Even still, your Dynamic Compression is currently around the 7.9:1 DCR area; this isn't really all that bad for a heavy hitting street engine. If you want more low rpm power and you want it in a manner of "swapping out a cam" I'ld suggest a cam somewhere in the 260 or 270 Duration; and instead of the 110*'s LSA (Lobe Separation Angle) maybe a 112 for the street. Remember, LSA's are as important useful tools in determing low rpm power as Duration; as the LSA has its effect and comes into play during the low lift of the valve; they have as much a say in low rpm power as the IVC does. Mike illuded to the answer and GrumpyVetter hit it the nail right on the head; in that, you may wish to get a steeper rear geared differential. A 3.90 diff. would increase your rpm's by about 300 rpm's in each gear. That would get you that much closer to your "Peak Power Band" of your engine/cam combo: and with your 700r4 your .7 4th gear and 26.10" tires would still allow decent cruise on the hwy. A 3.90 diff would be better but with your engine combo you actually need a much higher rear diff. gear ratio. Remember, your true dilemma is do you want a heavy hitting street machine or do you want a moderate street machine w/good low rpm power to match acceptable but not extreme high rpm power. Regardless of which you choose-gearing always plays an important part in maximizing your engine/tranny; it isnt a matter of "Have I chosen Poorly" but rather, "What am I willing to Accept as Optimum Performance"(?). Just my .02cents worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea, I know my windshield leaks on the passenger floor everytime a hard and long lasting rainstorm hits. If the owner will let you; take it to car wash and spend a few dollars giving it a hard "Rainstorm" simulation. You may want to have a friend blasting the windows, windshield and rear hatch while you are inside looking and listening for leaks. Another thing; if this is to be a car driven in traffic; then you will want the A/C Heater ducts to transition from defroster, to vents to the floor. Make sure that works as best I remember; Nissan doesnt make remanufactured A/C Heater parts so this means an aftermarket or finding a doner car where its A/C & Heater unit does function; AKA-Pain in the Butooski! Make sure the electricals are in order: head light dim/brights switch back and forth, wipers, interior lights, map light, blinkers, back-up lights, and rear hatch defroster work-if you can. That's all I can think of. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If its a weekend warrior "made to handle" just be sure its a manual tranny with that cam of choice. Have you checked the archives about headers; I seem to remember that a problem exists with area limitations in the Header dept; your operative word "Custom" is definately in order if you plan on the engine w/that cam. Good luck! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

We all know that our engines loss of mechanical Volumetric Efficiency's range from 10%, 15% and some 20% VE's for the milder performance builds. My question is this; If you were to rebuild your engine, where would you consider your upgrade within that engine, if you wanted to do nothing else but compensate for the initial VE% loss in mechanical efficiency of your 'stock' engine's performance? In other words if you had an engine, regardless of its performance capabilities, which had a VE% of [x] and you wanted to compensate for [x] losses; where would be your approach in taking up the slack of that mechanical [in]-efficiency? Would you bump up your tire/wheel diameter [x] amount to match the VE% loss? Would you bump the cam's lift, duration or LDA's [x] amount: Or would you up your compression [x] amount? Even consider cylinder heads with [x] larger ports and [x] higher flow numbers? I'm curious what your thoughts are on compensating for the initial VE% losses of an engine prior to rebuilding that engine. Am I making too much of this since I dont have a V8 to swap in to my car; or is this a legit question? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner; w/too much time on my hands)

Is this a daily driver, weekend warrior or dedicated drag strip car? Are you using stock piston compression heights, stock connecting rod lengths and a stock block deck height? If so, what rpm are you wanting; just anything under 900rpm's? Total Displacement in relation to Static Compression and Dynamic Compression will determine the duration of your cam. While the Cylinder Head's Limiting Port Volume at the Intake Port's opening will determine your "Potential" peak power and "Potential" peak rpm's, providing your intake delivery system and exhaust system are optimal; all this has an effect on the airflow capability of that cylinder head. Bottem line is going to be the intention of the car and what low rpm idle quality you are willing to live with in the confines of Daily Driver, Weekend Warrior or Dedicated Dragster/Racer. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Heh; (Interject Barney Fithe sniffle-here), "Ya Just Gotta Blow the Carbon Out Every Now & Then; Ya Know What I Mean?" Now, What did I do with that one bullet Andy gave me earlier? As for me, whenever I'm driving a car that has competitive power, I've found that I drive very normal (confidant; I guess) yet when I'm behind a car with little power & steep gears to make up for no power-then I drive like a mad-man. When I had my 70 Cutlass and even when I had my 70 Deuce & a 1/4 I drove those very normal; and what was weird is that I found everyone else was looking to race me. Even tho I wasnt looking for the race-they found me and were egging me on; very weird(?). For me; when I know I got it-you just know ya got it and I found myself a little more picky as to who I'll flaunt it for. As for now; I only have an Inliner: so I'm kind've in hybernation for the moment, just try'in to get thru the "Big Mean Ole Wicked City" without the Predators Jump'in me! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Okay, found the Hot Rod tests. My notes indicate two different articles whereby Hot Rod used the same SBC 355, 9.7:1 SCR (Static Compression Ratio), 190cc AFR Alluminum heads w/Fed.Mogal LW-2256 Pistons-whatever those are(?). The 9.7:1 SCR indicates a total chamber volume of 83.58cc's. The first article tested Flat Tappet Hydraulic Cams only, four of them to be exact. While the Second article tested a 294HR (Hydraulic Roller). This article didnt offer idle quaulity; but hey, if you're planning on a 294 anything cam then idle isnt really a concern ; if idle is a concern then you should think about a milder cam . Before I give the results of the articles, I'ld like to throw out my .02c's worth; and that would be concerning your low rpm idle you mentioned earlier. The overlap figure is equally as important but IMHO the actual cam event you should look for is the IVC. For it is the IVC (Intake Valve Closing) that determines DCR (Dynamic Compression Ratio) while the overlap is important for low valve lift airlfow figures. Some may argue Duration -vs- Overlap is the "Chicken and the Egg" argument in that; which came first Overlap or Duration? Nonetheless, the piston's location in the cylinder relative to IVC determines the quality of your low rpm idle; and what your DCR will be. From all the reading I've done it appears an 8.5:1 DCR for a street engine on pump gas will give a nice 600-750rpm idle while anything falling away from the 8.5:1 DCR will compromise that rule. As you get further & further away from the 8.5:1 DCR rule you are getting closer and closer to detonation which requires a higher octane fuel; also requiring race gas. Alluminum helps the street engines on pump gas get away with a little less DCR without detonation; but your low rpm idle still suffers. Here are the results: Comp Cam 1)252H: IVC @ 52*'s with .856% Cylinder Volume Reamaining = 8.45:1 DCR: idled @ 600rpm's w/18"Hg.Vacuum; Peak 398tq @ 3900rpm's/347hp @ 5100rpm's 2)268H: IVC @ 60*'s with .808% Cyl.Vol.Remaining = 8.03:1 DCR: idled @ 800rpm's w/16"Hg.Vacuum; Peak 401tq @ 4100rpm's / 380hp @ 5500rpm's (Noticeable Choppy Idle) 3)280H: IVC @ 66*'s with .768% Cyl.Vol.Remaining = 7.69:1 DCR: idled @ 850rpm's w/12"Hg.Vacuum; Peak 403tq @ 4300rpm's / 404hp @ 5700rpm's (Definate Choppy Idle) 4)292H: IVC @ 72*'s with .725% Cyl.Vol.Remaining = 7.31:1 DCR: idled @ 850-900rpm's w/8"Hg.Vacuum; Peak 399tq @ 4500rpm's / 430hp @ 6700rpm's (Very Wavy Choppy Idle) These next cam came from the second article and did not give their idle characteristics. 5)294HR: IVC @ 73*'s with .717% Cyl.Vol.Remaining = 7.24:1 DCR: Peak 436tq @ 5500rpm's / 477hp @ 7100rpm's Notice the difference between the #4 Flat Tappet Hyd.Cam -vs- the difference in #5 Hydraulic Roller. It definately free'd up some hp and torque. Also notice how close the real numbers are compared to Pete's DD numbers? The difference would definately be in the restrictive exhaust manifolds -vs- a non-restrictive appropriate and optimum set of headers; which we all know in our V8z's we have to compromise in that area. This brings up a good point; why build a "killer" engine only to be forced in to "choking" it with less than preimuim headers due to space limitations. Unless you plan on fabricating the engine bay area to allow for better headers; less in this instance may be better than more! Good thread; I always enjoy the "possibility of power from an engine not yet built" type of conversations. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hello 73z; welcome to the board. Since I too was once an Olds guy I'ld like to add my .02c's worth. The Olds engines are good strong torquey engines, and beefy. If built correctly you shouldnt have any problem getting 500horsies. Oh yea, did I mention they are Heavy. The reason, after all these years, I gave up on my Olds passion, is once I began understanding engines I realized that their cylinder heads are very restrictive to airflow. Not that you cant change that-If you're an Olds guy and you have not obtained Joe Mondello's Manuals and catalogues on how to build and modify Olds engines then you need to obtain them; very much worth the money. Anyway; as I said, their heads can be made to flow but its gonna cost ya; a lot. Where as Chevy, Ford and Mopar already have stock cylinder heads that flow better than most Olds cylinder heads and these heads are relatively cheap compared to what it will cost to make an Olds cylinder head compatible. You may have another problem; and that is engine bay space. The olds big block is a BIG wide engine. The SBC's are limited enough in our Z's when it comes time to search for an appropriate set of headers; much less a big block Olds. The other problem you'ld have with an engine like that is traction problems. Big Block Olds are torque monsters with the power you are thinking about for your Z. The biggest hurdle you will find, when it comes to big blocks of any kind, is you're gonna have to do some serious modifications to the engine bay. There are also those here with SBC's with 450 horsies (Naturally Aspirated) that have enough a hard time getting traction. If you do build a monster torquer then you will need to make sure you get the correct gearing in the differential so that you're not to torquey at low rpms. Remember; when the big blocks came out they initially were slated for 3600lbs cars up to 4600lbs cars; not to mention the light duty trucks weighing in at a dainty 5600lbs. Where as the first generation Z's weigh in at anywhere from 2800lbs to 3000lbs. I dont want to rain on anyone's parade. If you want to do an Olds Big Block; go for it , the only problem is that there are no kits available so you would be breaking new ground. Best bet is to obtain the JTR manual so you will know what all is involved; that is of course if you have not obtained the manual as of yet. Just my thoughts. Kevin, (Yea, Still an Inliner)

If You have David Vizard's book on "How to Build & Modify Chevy Small Block V8 Cylinder Heads" you can turn to page 145. There you will find in the upper right the flow numbers for the Pontiac-Chevy 23* Heads. I'll go ahead and list them for you here; BTW, these numbers were taken at the Standard Pressure Drop of 25" of water. Pontiac-Chevy 23 Degree #867 Heads Intake Port Volumes were 245cc ____Stock Intake Valve___Larger Intake Valve ........1.94" Valve...........2.05" Valve... .050....26cfm.................31cfm......... .100....57....................62............ .200....105...................128........... .300....153...................187........... .400....179...................236........... .500....180...................263........... .600....188...................281........... .700....192...................296........... *NOTE: The Larger Intake Valve cylinder head was ported for maximum airflow to compliment the larger valves. Exhaust Airflow ___Stock Exhaust Valve___Larger Exhaust Valve ........1.60" Ex.Valve........1.625" Ex.Valve .050....24cfm.................27cfm.......... .100....40....................55............. .200....75....................104............ .300....105...................142............ .400....118...................178............ .500....122...................198............ .600....124...................208............ .700....125...................220............ There you go, hope this helped. BTW: I know one of my books has a HOT ROD comparison of 4 different Comp Cam's on a healthy 355. Once I find it I'll post their actual numbers on this thread. Till then, here are the airflow numbers for your Pontiac-Chevy 23* SBC heads. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

In my past I always stayed away from an engine that someone else built. If and when I was interested in an engine that someone else had already rebuilt, I definately would not give it a second look if I could not hear the motor run; and even then if I didnt know the person it would be highly suspect. Another factor is expenses -vs- profit in return. If you do a nice job and rebuild it correctly, very few people will want to give you what it is worth because most that are interested will be looking for a good deal; they'll think you are hurting for cash & expect to only pay pennies on the dollars. Then on the other hand if you build it cheaply you can expect dependability and longevity may be compromised, and you may get a call many months later from an unhappy customer wanting or expecting consideration for their troubles. If you do rebuild it you will have to either gaurantee it for 'x' amount of days in order to get the money out of it; and now you become a warranty dept. If you dont warranty it then make sure you sell it "AS IS" and get the buyers signature understanding that everything is being sold "AS IS". Then you can avoid any phone calls if/when anything fails. Its always the owners decision, but IMO you would sell the engine quicker and w/less out of pocket exp's if you just sold it as is with the promise that "It did run when it was pulled" and no other gaurantee". Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Unless its 3500rpm's for an extended time, such as on a trip, and on a hot day. The Z's floorboard heats up plenty and that is with the stock inline 6. I have a stock 78z w/the stock 4spd (Yea,I know-I didnt think 4spd's were still being used in 78 either) and it's 1.0:1 direct drive 4th is a killer during the Texas Summers. My A/C works but A/C wont do anything for the bottom of your foot when the floorboard heats up due to extended excessive rpm's. If you can hold out for an AOD trans I think you'ld be very glad you did; watching your rpm's drop from 3500rpms to 2400 or 2500rpm's is very gratifying. Not only will it minimize the floorboard heat but will also save on extra wear and tear to the engine. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Before purchasing any cyl.head; you need to keep in mind what your goals are for both your engine and your car. Is this your daily driver or will it be a weekend warrior: or somewhere in between? As the Grumpster said, those 215's are for a true performance engine and are border line "almost too big for the street SBC"; unless you really like a "peaky" engine. 215's would definately have an effect on Dynamic Compression and would require a Cam and Static Comp. to compliment them. So, we know your engine is a 327; what Static Comp. were you thinking about and what kind of cam were you wanting? Are you using Stock Pistons? Once you've answered the [Purpose] of your car question as well as the [static Comp.] question; then you can decide on a pair of cyl.heads. BTW: Alluminum heads will usually allow you to bump the compression up one full notch over a cast iron cyl.head. In other words; if a pair of iron heads suggested no more than 9.5:1 then a pair of Alluminum Heads will usually alow you to run 10.5:1 (but that is pushing the detonation limit in reference to pump gas & noticed I said USUALLY). Depending on the budget, its definately something to think about. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree about the recent onslaught of aftermarket performance cylinder head trends. It appears they are leaning more towards smaller combustion chambers and pistons with slight dishes to match the cyl.head's chambers. It was this trend that initiated my posing this question on this thread. Just wanted an overall consensus. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

.039" to .041" is the norm for crushed thickness on the Head Gasket for a typical SBC while it's bore will obviously depend on your displacement; yet, typical Head Gasket Bore sizes will range from 4.125" to 4.200". The cc's those cyl.head gasket bore's consume will range from 8.2cc up to 11.2cc's. Oh yea, dont forget your crevis cc's of your piston's! That can range anywhere from 1.1cc's for a small block and upto 3cc's for a big block on a typical street engine's piston. For your typical crushed gasket thickness and the cc's they consume you may wish to consult your P.A.W Catalogue's Fel-Pro section. They have good info concerning that exact issue. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Terry, This is one concern of mine. Of all the books I've read, I've not found one that discusses what seat pressure is required for any one cam's profile in relation to maximum rpm's desired. For starters, the machinery for doing this is expensive and beyond the auto enthusiest's budget. This implies that the enthusiest's will have to concede knowing this data and blindly accepting what a cam's tech line tells us. This concession leaves the enthusiest with the only other option, which is determining a spring's "Rate" within the seat pressures -vs- installed/compressed height figures the cam mfg's actually do give us. Determining a "Rate" of a spring is all good and fine. But what if you've determined your Rate for your given choice of components; does this mean you can now relax? What if you've chosen incorrectly. Its my concern that one ("One" being yourself or the person on the cam's tech line) could possibly choose an incorrect spring but still properly determine that incorrectly chosen spring's rate; but what good does this do us(?) as we've properly determined its rate however we've chosen a spring that doesnt compliment our cam profile to begin with: AKA, JUNK IN=JUNK OUT. How I understand the issue and how I would approach seat pressures is this way. Look at your cam catalogues in the valve spring listings. First go to the column listing Installed Height...this is what you need to know first. Then deduct your lift measurement (lift at the valve) and then take that number and compare it to the cam catalogue's number in the "Coil Bind" column to ensure you had reasonable "Over the Nose" tolerances once the spring has been broken in. From what I've read an engine's valve tolerance between compressed height and coil bind should be at: 1) Street Engine = .060" 2) Race Engine = .100" Now, let us look at your cam. If I remember correctly you're running a Ford. In the Comp.Cam's Catalogue their 953 spring lists a 185/475lbs spring for Installed/Compressed Seat Pressure on a mechanical roller. Its Installed Height/Compressed Height is 1.890/1.280 with a Coil Bind measurement at 1.100. How to determine your spring's "Rate" is you either look at the column in the catalogue if you know where your valve springs came from. If you dont know where your valve springs came from then you'ld have to put your spring in a valve spring compressor measuring tool & mark down their readings. Take the Comp.Cam's 953 Spring I mentioned along with your cam's valve lift of .593", like so: A) Installed Height - Compressed Height = Total Valve Lift Compressed Seat Pressure - Installed Seat Pressure = Actual Applied Pressure C) Actual Applied Pressure/Total Valve Lift = "Rate of your Spring" Now using the above formula but applying our 953 Spring & your cam's lift at the valve: 1) 1.890" - 1.297" = .593" Total Valve Lift 2) 475#'s - 185#'s = 290#'s Applied Pressure 3) 290/.593" = 489 lbs/in Rated Spring This rate is actually 6lbs higher than the catalogue. This is why its so important to check the spring values yourself. A cam mfg will always have a few dozen springs which are used on many different occasions; now, 6lbs isnt really a biggy, but what if it was 50lbs and you didnt check it prior to running the engine: UH-OH! In other words, one spring, rated at [X] lbs/inch on one engine may have a different rating on another engine w/a cam of a different profile altogether. This presents two problems with our previously given example. First, I dont really know your installed/conmpressed height nor do we really know the lbs of seat pressure at your installed/compressed height. The only true way of knowing is by measuring your installed/compressed height and then measuring the spring's pressure's on a valve spring measuring tool. Secondly, if this valve spring were actually installed on your engine w/the installed height/compressed height as advertised; then your .593" Valve Lift compresses the valve to 1.297; whereas Comp.Cam claims a coil bind exists at 1.100"; that leaves you with .197" of free play. According to the books I've read; only .100" are needed for a race endurance engine; so that would put us .097" too much free travel. Who, what & how is that fine balance between too much seat pressure -vs- valve float determined(?), because I'ld really like to know: this is something where our "Faith" in the cam & valve spring mfg's come in to play. It appears our dilemma still arises in that no one can tell me what the actual "Seat Pressures" are required at any one particular valve lift for a particular desired maximum RPM. It appears this info is something that the cam mfg's and auto mfg's think would be too confusing for the hobbyist as no one has come forward in any of the perf.books I've purchased and offered an "AVERAGE" seat pressure for [x] amount of cam lift. If I was revving to 7000 or more I'ld definately want a rev kit installed. So the two questions that are within our control are: 1) What tolerance is required between compressed height and coil bind when a peak rpm is desired: a) .060" for a Street Engine .100" for an Endurance Engine 2) What valve stem length/rocker arm ratio are you using, as this determines what your installed height and compressed height will be. Then you can determine your "RATE" in lbs/inch of your spring....but this is totally dependent upon the installed height/compressed height of the cam mfg's whims. What to do, What to do? I hope this helped somewhat. and didnt add to the confusion. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

In my attempt to fully and completely understand Dynamic Comp. & Static Comp. I have always wondered what the essential distictive differences are in two difference approaches in the exact same Chamber Volume...(Volume above the top of the piston when it is at Top Dead Center aka:TDC) and how it effects performance. Specifically, if one were to build an engine w/75cc chamber volumes: they could do so with a 60cc Cylinder Head Combustion Chamber & make up the difference of 15cc's in a dish, crushed head gasket thickness, crevis and Quench cc's. They could take that approach or: One could have that same 75cc chamber volume w/a 70cc Cylinder Head Comb.Chamber, flat top pistons, and .005 minimum Quench/Decked block. I guess what I'm asking, is this, If two engines were build w/the exact same chamber volume (as in the above two examples) yet the builders approached that exact same chamber volume differently; would the two engines behave the same or would they have different personalities? As usual I am interested in everyone's thoughts and oppinions, so dont be shy & if you feel you have something to add, please dont hesitate. I have an inquiring mind & it wants to know. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I was about to read your post, but a Top Fuel Dragster just went by; caught my attention. Just for the record, you will have finish reading my post with time to spare prior to my Factory Inline 6 280z finishing the 1/4mile. Seriously tho, isnt it amazing what the auto enthusiast will do to get their "Fix" for speed; the real speed,that is, not the illegal stuff. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Not much you can do about a blown head gasket or burnt valves. Once the damage is done; it is done. If the damage has existed for an extended period of time; and the the engine is alowed to rest. "Rust" builds up inside where there should've been an oil film. But if you have burnt vavles then anything you can do should only be thought of as a [very temporary] band aid. About the "steam cleaning" effect; my high school buddy's dad was a master mechanic & owned a small multi line shop in Dallas for many years. I remember a story he relayed about using water to remove the carbon from valves and piston tops. He said while working the throttle by hand he could pour minute amounts of water into the carb (notice I said minute amounts) and then work the throttle by increasing the rpm's. The only problem he ever encountered was to "NOT LET THE ENGINE DIE" while performing this procedure. Once the engine dies w/water in the carb-you've really got a problem in restarting. Another point, when using WD40; understand that it is not a "lubricant". WD40 stands for "WATER DISPLACEMENT" and the "40" represents the 40th attempt NASA made on this formula before getting it right. The bottem line is that wd40 evaporates. So, dont use it as a lubricant. Definately use it when you think water is somewhere it doesnt belong. But when you need to loosen a seized bolt or screw; use Liquid Wrench or its equivalent. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My JTR manual is a 1995 5th Edition. No ISBN number as the manuals, at least the 5th Edition manual, was self published by JTR. Maybe that has changed with the newer editions, I dont know-someone else will have to chime in here. Kevin (Yea,Still an Inliner)