Kevin Shasteen

RickyB Thanks for breaking down the front/rear weights. My 78 2+2 came w/all documents including showroom doc's; of which the car weighed in right at 3000lbs....w/out a driver. Curious Your signature implies a Pontiac 455...is this engine currently in your Z(?). Kevin (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: ...Traction... And, if this is a Street Driven Z..that 100+ Octane gas gets pretty expensive after awhile. Just a thought: but if you do go w/that turbo set up why not put the turbo set up in a safe place somewhere & save up for the proper pistons to lower your comp.ratio. Or, you could always alter your A/R ratio of the turbo which would aid in the delay of early RPM spool up due to your higher compression: talk to a pro-turbo shop about that one (just a thought). The turbo set up, once you've purchased them, wont be going anywhere & when you obtain pistons of the correct comp.ratio (to allow street driving w/out the need of 100+ Octain Gas) you can enjoy your "incognito Monster" on the street w/out fear of possible constant detonation. Like mentioned earlier: the expense doesnt stop at the purchase of the turbo set up...you still have to purchase some sort of management system..why not also get a set of comparable pistons(?)...just my .02c's worth/or alter the A/R ratio of the compressor. (Turbo set up on a V8/Z...that would be nice). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

First off; are you talking about your Z(?) or another car...manual door lock or power door locks? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I believe I remember one of the Hybridz members doing that...they used a dual carb manifold outfitted w/two TB's. I dont remember who it was but I do remember the conversation being discussed. Maybe you might want to post a new thread asking, "Who's running Dual TB's" and surely someone will answer..or point you to the correct sourse. BTW: along those lines...does anyone make a dual butterfly AFM...say for a TPI set up whereby a smaller butterfly, that is linkage operated, is super-imposed by a larger butterfly overlaying the smaller one that opens at WOT(?)..that would be interesting: kind've like a 4bbl carb opening up at WOT(?)hmm. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: ...conundrum..? Lone Are we allowed to use words w/more than three syllables on this board? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hey Grumpster (or anyone else who has an idea on the ideal cylinder pressures), My question specifically deals w/the "V/P Index" on one of the sites you posted as good reading...and it was, & I thank you again for bringing that formula on the V/P Index to my attention: I found it quite interesting. I've read many hot rod books & noticed that most articles concentrate on the "HP/Torque" figures of an engine but rarely if ever do I remember their builders stating what their [Cylinder Pressures] were for a specific build. I've always thought that just because an engine sounds good (that lumpity lump sound of a V8 w/big cam) doesnt necessarily mean it's running efficiently for its intended purpose: which the V/P Index helps shed some light on that subject. Once I began understanding Dynamic Comp.Ratio I've found that to be equally as important as Static Comp. The Question is: what actually is considered to be an appropriate cylinder pressure (high & lows) for a: 1) Typical Grocery Getter 2) Street/Strip Engine 3) Dedicated Race (Drag or Rally Car) Engine 4) Turbo/Supercharged as well Appreciate any input from anyone on the subject. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I really like what I've read so far...thanks for posting those sites (bout half way done reading the first site). You know; for a Grumpy guy...you're okay. BTW: "Piston Motion for Crankshaft Rotation" I've got on Excel & created a form for the numbers once generated...(last years project; whewww! glad that one's over). I'm not into the "Theta" thing but I did have to teach myslef sin, cosine ect. Also; are you familiar w/the formula P-L-A-N/33,000? It's an older formula (older than me) but once figured will assist the user in determining Work/Hp/Torque...pretty cool stuff, IMHO. Very good info: keep it coming. I'm not an engineer but I find myself thriving on automotive tech (substance..not hype) that explains the behavior of one engine in comparison to another engine. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

"VE" stands for Volumetric Efficiency in ref.to the efficiency not only of the air thru the engine but also the power loss due to the driveline (power from the flywheel to the tires/ground). Its theorized that automotive engines never run at 100%VE unless untold man-hours (which means Dollars $$) are involved in fine-tuning (Porting, Grinding/Manipulating) all passages of an engine to perfection: as well as the power loss in the driveline going from the flywheel to the hp/torque actually put to the wheels (which should be less due to the %VE being less than 100%). So in an attempt to determine power output of an engine (if you accept the %VE argument) you have to over-achieve your actual hp/torque goal on the dyno in order to reach your actual hp/torque goals on the street (with the engine in the car)once you've determined or "assumed" the %VE your engine & car is running at. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yep, Yep-Yep-Yep, Yep...I see the error of my ways. My numbers are correct for a single turbo set up just incorrect for a twin turbo set up (Oops). 240Z Turbo/TimZ: Thanks for not giving up on me! I was running the single turbo (as a twin turbo set up) simply because I havent put a reminder in my Excel program reminding me Divide everything by two...not just the boost psi. Alright (I hate refinements as it always comes as a surprise rather than a planned requirment). Time to expand my program. BTW: in my incorrect process of the initial problems...my Execution of the process was correct-just my numbers for a "Twin Turbo" set up were somewhere WAY OUT THERE...again thanks for catching that as I've gone this far w/out making the appropriate changes for an actual "Twin Turbo" Set up w/in my (Home-Grown) program. Still learning myself (turbo's are still fun even if they require an "Edumacation" learning curve This is what I like about HybridZ; "Everyone gets a chance to learn" even those who think they already know! I guess this means I'm not an Old Dog yet as I'm still learning new tricks. So if you want 30psi...then use those previously mentioned numbers & if you want a twin turbo then divide those numbers by two...same goes for the 15psi turbo: if you want a twin turbo set up that equals 15psi (15/2=7.5) then just divide my previous numbers by 2. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Correct me if I'm wrong (& it wouldn't be the first time) but you're assuming a 100% VE...and 100%VE engines rarely occurs: especially at the 6000-6500rpm range. Even if his engine were running at 90%VE at that rpm Mike would still have to push it to the 6250rpm level to reach the 200mph mark and if he were running at 85%VE then he'ld require 6600rpms to reach his 200mph goal (assuming his engine is putting out 500hp at that rpm & rear tires of 24.58"Diameter). My suggestion I'm hinting at is this: is the desired 200mph going to be a quick spirt that once reached is only maintained for a short time then the car comes back down to the 150-160mph range or will the race indicate a flat wide open 180-200mph required speed. The reason I'm asking is wouldn't it be better to have an engine w/a smaller stroke for high sustained (Constantly Sustained) speeds as opposed to a large cubic inch engine w/a long stroke? I know the 383's are great torque monsters...for the 1/4 mile tracks: but is the 383 capable of living at those "Constantly" High Sustained Speeds. I guess what I'm asking about is Long Term Endurance/Durability (no thrown rods...ect, ect) and instead of the 6300-6600rpm Sustained RPMs why not 5500-5700rpm's (which includes the unknown 85-90% VE) and would lower temp's not only in the engine but also in the rear diff/axle. Again, only thinking outloud as I too would like to see Mike reach that 200mph mark w/out complications. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

why is this posting twice?...no need for a duplicate post/erased the duplicate post

The pressure ratio & density ratio's both change when you figure 15psi -vs- 30psi...work the math yourselt & you'll see. That 833cfm Rep's [Compressor Inlet flow] at 15psi boost pressure & it was for one of the twin turbo's not both of the turbo's -vs- the "Single Turbo" at 30psi's 1078cfm of [Comp.Inlet Flow]...now you can see why the twin turbo thing puts out so much more power (air density x two...as in two turbo's) instead of one turbo attempting to keep up w/both cyl.banks. There are so many numbers to run & so many equations to look at I accidentally stated "Intake cfm" cofusing the wording of Intake Temp with Comp.Inlet Flow...my bad. Anyway, as stated before-the Comp.Inlet Flow of 833cfm rep's only one of the two turbo's w/in the twin turbo set up. These numbers were taken from both Hugh MacInnes (sp?) & Corky Bell's books. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike, Is the choice of rear gears or cam's gonna also be your final choice for your car when you decide to run it the road race you've been itch'n to run in? Top end speed (your 200mph goal) usually comes easier w/smaller cubic inch engine & smaller gears (highway gears). Just thinking outloud. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I really like the 510's; wish I had come across the Datsun's at an earlier age. I saw your pictures...didnt realize last time when I looked at your T-56 pic's that you were installing it & your Inliner6/3.0 Turbo? into a 510 that car is gonna Kick But! BTW: for those of you who collect Magazine Articles on 510 & Z's; this months Road & Track did a special on Morton's 70'ish BRE 510...very nice article w/great pic's! Good luck on your engine instal. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/Mike; there's more to a killer car than the engine. But, since you asked about the 30psi thang; I plugged the numbers into my excel program for turbo's & this is what I came up with. 360 Mopar . Bore x Stroke = 4.00 x 3.58 . You want 30psi @ 6500rpms . Figure a 100*F day (Ambient Temps) . 80% VE engine @ 6500rpms = 542cfm . Single Turbo Set Up . 65% Efficiency for the Turbo This gives you: . 1078cfm w/30psi Turbo @ 65% Efficiency Rating . 3.18 Pressure Ratio . 1.99 Density Ratio . 433*F Intake Inlet Temp w/out an Intercooler . 200*F Intake Inlet Temp's w/a 70% Efficient Intercooler . 232*F drop in temps w/the use of the intercooler Twin Turbo Set Up (Divide 30psi/2 = 15psi) . 833cfm for one of the two Turbo's with each turbo @ 65% Efficiency Rating . 2.09 Pressure Rating . 1.54 Density Ratio . 299*F Intake Inlet Temp's w/out an Intercooler . 159*F Intake Inlet Temp w/a Intercooler w70% Efficiency Rating . 139*F temp drop w/the use of the intercooler Those numbers should help you when checking out your turbo maps...If indeed you are dead set on "30psi" PS: The twin turbo Compressor Inlet Flow is only for one of the twin turbo's & not indicative of the accumalative cfm for both turbo's: therefore, too consider what cfm twin turbo's would be taking in you would take the 833cfm & multiply it by two...833cm x 2=1666cfm. PS/PS: Disregard the previous "PS"...to understand this disclaimer read the remainder of the post. (This is a big OOoops!) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree that 30psi is F1 territory...so if you havent put in the modifications to your engine to live up to that stress or the Z's body then you may have to come back down to earth & settle in the 15-20psi turbo-land (welcome to reality..it bites/but sometimes we cant get around it). If you have Corky Bell's book then read it about a dozen times (I did) and then things will begin clicking (light bulbs will begin coming on) and you will be able to answer your own questions. If you understand how to read turbo maps..then that is the place to start. You also need to know at what rpm you'ld want your peak HP/Torque to come in to play: then apply your newly learned knowledge of air density, pressure ratio & if intercoolers are to be used then you can play around w/the decrease of the air temps. The first question you need to ask yourself is what/where will you be driving this "30psi" turbo'd car...if its on the street then you dont need 30psi. If it's at the drag strip then 15psi is gonna be all you can handle for your beginning turbo car. Read the Corky Bell book @ a dozen times & you'll be able answer your own questions. BTW: if you already understand how to read turbo maps you may want to go to "Turbonetics" web site as they have their turbo maps on-line & you can pick/choose the turbo you prefer by playing around w/the numbers using their maps. Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Non-Turbo'd V8" Inliner)

I agree that you should take nothing for granted. I'm not an expert but I always install my own stereo's when I purchase one. The very first thing I do is cut the wire's plug/head off & install my own wiring connections...after I've confirmed which wire is hot w/the ignition off & which wire is hot after the accessory is turned on. If I'm installing a CD player & Amp seperate from the head unit...make sure your ground wires to any/all stereo components are as close to each other as possible: this ensures your ground wires to your stereo components aren't picking up "Body-Ground" noise from the fuel pump or any other electrical source that has a ground wire connected to the body further back than your stereo components...these cross grounds can have some weird problems to other electrical items. I'ld also remove your stereo & take it to a pro-stereo shop for testing: this way you'll know right off the bat if your unit is good/bad...and that's half the battle. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea, but where do the 15" woofers go? Just kidding...I like the look of that also/looks kind-ve Daytona'ish like. Very sweet indeed. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by CALIFORNIAZ: http://www.speedomotive.com/Destroked%20377.htm CaliforniaZ; FWIW (anal retentive/engine building 101 comment here) that kit list their basic kit & then offers upgrades if wanted. The basic kit includes a cast crank/cast pistons; IMO, cast crank & cast pistons is a sure-fire way to destroy your engine in a high revving 377...be sure & make the upgrades to the better pistons & crank if/when choosing their kit. As for the 64cc or 76cc combustion chambers...it all depends on the intent of the engine; Remember-its a complete package. What comp.ratio are you running/how extreme of a camshaft or you using & at what RPM range would you like your "High-Revving" 377 to come in to its peak power range? Flat Top pistons or small dish pistons will determine which of the 64cc or 76cc comb.chamber are needed coupled w/your choice of cam. Remember; the pistons/combustion chamber cc's of the cylinder heads along w/the displacement of the engine determine "Static Comp.Ratio" while your camshaft works for/against your engine combination & directly effects "Dynamic Comp.Ratio's". So again, which to choose from can be determined by what the intent of the engine is or will be once its built. As for the previous post asking about the 170cc heads being okay for this engine(?), if your engine is going to be driven on the street the 170cc heads will be perfect. They'll lose steam in the upper rev's (6000rpm's & on) but for the street they'll offer good idle...depending on your choice of cam Kevin, (Yea,Still a non-377 Inliner)

I'ld love to build a 327...not your typical 327 tho. I'ld like to build a .040 400SBC w/a 3.00 stroke (Hoo Hoo-talk about a high rever). I mourn for you loss! Hope you find the job your looking for (Preferably one that meets your Z needs!). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by James M: ...I wonder what a Z would look like completly covered in that stuff...lol That would be interesting; a Z painted w/black wrinkle paint...Dont forget the Skull-n-Bones Painted on the fenders, Hood & Rear Deck! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

And, if you haven't already, make sure your stereo receiver, amp & any other stereo component that has a ground wire are all grounded as close to each other's ground as possible! This will keep their signals & grounds as clean/undiluded as well. I grounded my stereo & amp on the passenger seat support brace on the floor board next to the relay; havent had a problem. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by ZGimp: Sorry for babbling.., Kris Good info, for 300k mile warranty you can babble all day long. Its been a few years since I've checked the diesels. The Cummins will definately be the Cadilac of diesels as opposed to the GM or International Diesel. Just before anyone buys anything...check the hp/torque figures & check w/the service dept's of each Ford, GM & Dodge Dealers: then ask them how often they've worked on the vehicle in question & what repairs were required & how often are those repairs required. The service requirements are the true tell-tell testimonies. A warranty is great...but its even better if you never have to use it: Down-time never comes at a good time! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm not that familiar w/the V-10's but if you're looking at the V8 Diesels I'ld say your decision needs to be based on what your intent/purpose of the truck in order to make a proper decision. If you're looking for a Light Duty truck for semi-heavy work...then go w/the Dodge or the GM but if you're looking for Extreme HD-work out of a Light Duty Truck then go w/the Ford & make sure you have a standard transmission. The ford puts out more HP/Torque (last time I checked) & that is why the Hot-Shot Truckers prefer the Ford over the Dodge or the GM. Even tho the Dodge engine is made by Cummins & you cant beat a Cummins as for "user-friendliness" the Ford Diesel is made by International & International certainly knows what they are doing as well. BTW: Even tho the Dodge Cummins has less hp/torque-you cant beat a 150k mile warranty on the powertrain from Cummins (At least they were offering that warranty last time I checked). Somthing to think about. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hey Jimbo, Eastwood sells the wrinkle black in an spray can, slightly more expensive. You can also buy the spray can stuff thru most Pep-Boys or JCWhitney. I've used both from Pep-Boys & Eastwood & have found no difference in the quality of the paint. The trick to making it work is the prep work. Both times I used the stuff (on Valve Covers) I'ld sand blast them, then used a metal prep from Eastwood & then used the black wrinkle spray paint. Worked great both times & lasted. Follow the directions on the back of the can to the letter. Instead of using a hair dryer I used a heat gun on high (much hotter than a hair dryer). BTW: I also have Eastwood's Powder Coat system & used it on the last V8 engine I did. Of all the dozen or so parts I powder coated only one of the parts has a few minor rust spots showing thru while all the other parts still look great. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)