Kevin Shasteen

Racnoth, That would be sweet if Ford actually did that. I remember when the Mustang was approaching the 25th aniversary...I was at the point in my financial carreer that I was ready to buy a new/collectable mustang; I just knew Ford was going to increase the HP of the Stang and make them in a limited edition; I was ready to make the purchase...then I read in a magazine there would be no change in the 25th anniversary Stang's power output & man was that a huge let down. Needless to say I didnt buy the Stang. I wanted a Factory Hot Rod...not one that I had to buy then put 5k in aftermarket mod's just to make it competative!! Anyway; your post brought back memories; looks like Ford has finally got the idea that "More is Better"...oh yea/anyone who buys one of these things remember-You cant race them/or abuse them as that would void the warranty(!), you can have the power but cant use it(?), yea right! Bet the Lightning powered Mustang will have a nice little price tag to go along w/it! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I've heard of the grease method but have never used it. Instead I use a body man's "Slide Hammer" w/the three claw attachment. Once the claws are adjusted so that all the slack is removed....a few yanks & the pilot bearing is out! Bought the attatchment from Pep-Boys...just make sure the attachment has the same size threads and diameter as your slide hammer when looking for the appropriate tools. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Night Rider, BTW; your first post mentioned 60cc cyl.heads while your last posting mentions 64cc cyl.heads. 64cc cyl.heads will leave you w/a 10.3:1 to a 10.4:1 Comp.Ratio. If you're using alluminum cyl.heads you should be okay, but, if you're using iron cyl.heads you might be pushing the pump gas factor a little too much (detonation?). Unless the piston mfg has altered the Piston Compl.Height your static comp.ratio w/you choice of piston indicates 10.35:1; a 350SBC has a piston comp.height of 1.560". Were those 3 to 4cc valve reliefs (eye brow reliefs) only one relief per valve or were there two valve reliefs for each valve...could make a sizeable difference! Is each valve relief 3 or 4 cc's or is the 3 or 4cc's a total? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Night_rider_383: ...9.35:1 compression .030'' over hypereutectic pistons..,with the 60 cc heads total compression should be about 10.52:1..,Any good guess would be a big help. Night Rider, How did you determine your 9.35:1 Comp.Ratio? If your engine hasnt been machined in anyway then your 60cc cyl.heads (using .030 350SBC pistons) would yield 11.4:1 w/your choice of head gasket providing your piston's had a .060cc dish! If you chose that same set up w/.060cc Dish Pistons and 70cc Cyl.Heads...then comp.ratio would be in the 10.1:1 to 10.2:1 Comp.Ratio. If this is a street engine...be careful of your cyl.head selection. Dont guess when it comes to Comp.Ratio's. Remember you have to consider: 1) Cyl.Displacement cc's 2) Cyl.Head Combustion Chamber cc's 3) Head Gasket Crush (.041 on yours) 4) Piston Dish or Pisto Dome/Flat Top cc's 5) Piston Comp Ring cc's (Top Piston Ring) Then the "X" factor...your camshaft, as it will effect Dynamic Comp.Ratio. Providing you've made the needed checks/balances for Static Comp.Ratio your engine sounds like it will be very stout! I too would guess in the 350 to 400hp range. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: ...Lone, my mind was drawing a blank for the word variety, I felt the word, selection, was a bit dull--sorry, I'm just trying to get some word satisfaction in here...Davy Hmmm, How bout: Chilling Array, Charitable & Alluring Assemblage, Ambitious Grouping, Covetous Assortment, Exquisite Collection, Assertive Compilation, Concentrated Arsenal, Sizeable Allotment, Wicked Gathering of, Delightful Ensamble Amazing what a Slow Sunday Afternoon will do to a person! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

ScottyMiz, Hey, Dont be stingy w/those pictures...post them on this thread as well! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm at the other end of the grade curve as Pete; as I've yet to get my engine/as you all know I'm still only an Inliner! I've had the car for about a year now & have completed the suspension, steering & rebuild of the stock brakes (wont upgrade the brakes till after the V8 Swap has begun nor the coil over suspension till after the V8 swap has begun...nor the T56 & so on/& so on! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) BTW: Pete's project cant be considered as it exceeds the [statute of Limitations!] (just pullilng your chain Pete).

MIke, Surely a Mitsubishi Dealer's Service Shop somewhere will have access to that Turbo's turbo map! (as Mike responds..possibly/& quit calling me Shirley). However, I've recently formatted Hugh MacInnes Tubro formulae, from his book on turbo selection, onto Excel & if we assume that the Mitsu Turbo has: 1) 65% Comp.Efficiency a) at your 15lbs boost w/the 360cfm Then that alone can/will & should tell us a few things about your engine (L28). 1) L28's Bore x Stroke = 3.39 x 3.11 2) Assuming an 80% Volumetric Efficiency 3) 100*F average Texas Summer Day 4) 28*Hg Absolute Atmospheric Pressure 5) 5500rpm's 6) 15lbs of Boost My #'s indicate the L28 w/that turbo @ 15 lbs Boost is spitting out: 1) 330CFM 2) Intake Manifold Temps = 299 3) Density Ratio = 1.54 4) Pressure Ratio = 2.09 If you had an Air to Air IC that worked at 70% Efficiency your Intake Manifold Temp's would drop from 299*F to 159.8*F. The fact that the mitsu comp is 360CFM @ 15lbs Boost indicates it may be too large for the L28 & comp.efficiency may be compromised (anyone else have any idea about that assumption?) as the L28 would need 19.5 lbs Boost before it reached 360CFM; according to my numbers anyway. From what I've read of Hugh MacInnes's TurboCharging Book you can always swap the Comp. housing for a different A/R Ratio to increase or decrease airflow. I'm new to turbo's so I may be off my rocker-but I think I'm shooting somewhere in the ball park (I hope); it was fun playing w/the numbers if nothing else. Hope this helped. Kevin, (Yea,Still a Non-Turbo'd Inliner)

Yasin, Welcome to the site. I'm new to the world of turbo's but find them quite interesting. For starters, as I understand intercoolers and barring the press/temp drops: your benefits gained will depend on the Effectiveness (Efficiency Rating) of your Turbo & Intercooler. I'ld ask your shop whose doing the work-what effects will the Air/Water IC have if/when you go traveling (coming down from Colorado) & mingle w/the other bottom dwellers at a much lower altitude? Would your benefits be lower, equal or better than an Air/Air IC? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mac, I like the description of your 377 (I have a soft spot for the 377); I probable go w/a 377 if/when I ever get to make the swap. I think you handled it properly. Anytime an officer claims you "Violated a LAW"...it is your to ask to see that [law] or for him to quote it & its site...if he/she writes you a ticket it should be on there. As mentioned earlier if the law you've alledgedly broken has a "threshold" of some sort such as 1)too fast, 2)too loud, 3)too ugly(?) whatever it is you also have a right to ask how that limiting factor is determined....in this case-the dB indicator at a certain rpm at a certain distance from the tail pipe (good thread; I've never had this come up in conversation before; learned something new today). When I was 16 & just got my license to drive I was pulled over in Richardson Tx (just outside of Dallas) as my Inter'l P/Up's brake lights went out. The officer was trying to give me a ticket as I interupted him & reached over for the glove box (stupd thing now that I'm thinking about it) & quickly looked at the fuse panel...told the cop I've got the fuse & would fix it now-therefore no ticket! Then the cop attempts to tell me he's gonna give me a ticket because my 4x4 doesnt have mud flaps (WHAT!!)...right about that time a newer Chevy drives by & I point the officer's attention to the fact that the Chevy is a 1 Ton while my truck is a 3/4 ton; the Chevy didnt have mud flaps therefore I "Very Politely" instructed the officer he better go & give the Chevy a ticket...then a Newer Ford drove by-same scenario. The officer got the point & only gave me a warning! BTW; did I mention this was taking place right in front of the Richardson Police Station & my passenger was my Church Pastor's Son...we were just coming from a church funtion & I was taking him home! Bet that made for an interesting conversation when the PK got home! Police will sometimes test you as a driver; if you politely inquire to the officer for "Further Clearification" then they will usually do so or they will realize they dont know themselves or that they cant put their "BULL" over on you & release you w/a warning! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Nice list Night Rider; thanks for going thru the trouble of posting all that info! RickB, since your tras is OEM, the only "RedFlag" to watch out for are any descriptions w/in the rules that excludes a trans transplanted from one Mfg into Another...AKA: your GM 700 into a Datsun(?). When is the Import Race...that would be pretty fun to watch a V8Z putting the smack down on the other cars. If they allow V8's then why wouldnt they allow your 700? I dont know the rule but to me if they allow V8's then they shouldn't exclude your trans either...good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ross, My International 4x4 P/Up has an extra smaller "accessory" tank (not sure what else to call it) located in the upper driver's fender just for such a reason...if the truck is ever taken off road & the vent's find themselves below fuel lever...the excess fuel will spill over to that tank & fill that tank which then feeds back to the carb. Pretty cool, or so I thought, for International to think about that. I know my tank is for 4x4'ing; but it's kind of the same principle in action as the balance (surge) tank. Something to think about none-the-less. I wouldnt leave it to chance...all it takes is the right set of circumstances & one drop of fuel on the exhaust to ignite I've had a car, 70 Cutlass Supreme, go up in smoke due to a leaking fuel line. Its not fun to watch...the car had a spotless 25 year old interior at the time! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The curb weights of the Z are an illusive animal. I've got three or four Datsun manuals & not one of them have the curb weights listed! About the OEM trans...your trans is OEM (OEM for GM); gonna depend on the interpretation of the rules Smokey Yunik...er-uh/I mean Rick! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Stony, I really like the stance of your Z as well as the color you chose (my favorite color is Cherry Pearl Rad); what color is your paint? I also like how your tires fill the wheel wells; are your fender flairs plastic or metal, 3"? They really set off the car & I've been thinking about mild flairs on my Z. I also like the way you positioned your IC. you mentioned the RB engine fit perfect w/Z31 mounts; Perfect(?) w/no mod's at all; wow-bet that was a relief! I counldn't get the video to work; problably my computer (old dinosaur); I did hear the audio-heard the tires squealing/sounded good! Really nice looking Z; wish I could start mine. (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Sean, I cant seem to help myself when it comes to Auto Performance...I'm like the Mad Scientist & cant seem to get enough. Now, if I could just make money at what I've learned, then maybe I might be able to get my own project started...& I would no longer be an Inliner! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

BTW: FWIW...anyone reading Hugh MacInnes's book needs to realize he has a typo (at least on my book) on page 16 on "Table 1" where he first discusses the "Ideal Temp Rise". The process for Ideal Temp Rise is to use the Pressure Drop...lets say 1.5 & convert it in an equation like so: 1.5^.283-1 = .121 The .121 now becomes the Ideal Temp Rise. In the Table 1 on page 16 someone accidentally transposed the exponent .283 & typed it as .238! Took me awhile to figure out why my calculations were off...after re-reading his instructions I realized his table at the back of the book had the "Press.Ratio^.283-1" and realized either he or his publisher made a mistake...guess even the pro's are prone to typo's; glad to know I'm not the only one that makes mistakes. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Ahhh, Turbo's Turbo's Turbo's...its the last frontier. I'm new to turbo's but I'm learning fast; and have found a whole new respect for those wascally wabbits called turbo's. I've since taken Hugh MacInnes calculations for turbo selection & completed formatting those calculations on Excel along w/the A/A IC's effectiveness/Temp Drops. Scottie, I've input your 231/6 @ 5500rpm's w/.70% Comp.Effeciency along w/an A/A IC of 70% Effectiveness at 28" of HG on a 110*F Florida Day...,those #'s indicated the charge air at the Intake Manifold: A) w/o the IC: 1) 218*F w/7lbs Boost...1.7 Pressure Ratio 2) 291*F w/13lbs Boost..1.9 Pressure Ratio 3) 324*F w/16lbs Boost..2.2 Pressure Ratio The Charge Air Temp at the Intake Manifold w/the IC having the 70% Effectiveness Rating would be: With the IC of 70% Effectiveness 1) 142*F w/7lbs Boost & 1.7 Pressure Ratio 2) 164*F w/13lbs Boost & 1.9 Press.Ratio 3) 174*F w/16lbs Boost & 2.2 Press.Ratio 1st Question: after looking at all these #'s is how does one take advantage of the "Effectiveness Rating" of a cooler...does it all depend on location or does one simply push "Ram Air" thru the IC w/a fan? I also like the A/C Comp. idea mentioned earlier. 2nd Question: What effect (good or bad) does an IC have on an engine when the Winter Temp's hit, say near or below freezing temp's? If the effectiveness rating of the IC is to high (say 70%) & works well...what effect would that have on the intake air; do the pressure drops merely eualize & the intake manifold air isnt really effected? Seems like there are always more questions than answers! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner learning Turbo's) [ August 12, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Dont forget the pendulum swings the other way also, if you know the HP at a certain RPM then you can determine Torque as well: TORQUE = 5252 * HP/RPM Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: ..,What turbo book are you reading? I found an old one..,by Hugh Macinnes. Lone, that is the same book I'm reading; upon my initial search for turbo books I found them somewhat "Scarce" (few & far between)..., 5psi to 7psi...from my reading of this book I kind of got the feeling low boost was a rather limiting factor for intercoolers/just wanted to get a consensus from the board. ...He has a rather long equation for establishing the correct turbo that would take forever for me to put up here as math isn't my gig.., Lone, You should really & I mean really get in to understanding Excel; I've planned on, but havent found the time lately, to put his formula in excel; whereas the perameters he uses can be cross ref'd to said perameters...this way when a change is made to one of the inputs all the outputs automatically fall in line & make the appropriate changes (very cool-this modern day stuff). I've avoided computers all my life till recently-they really are a time saver when it comes to math calculations. My take on the turbo & older books is similar to that of areodynamics...sure some tech is gonna make an incredible breakthru but most of the problems have been weeded out w/the initial foundational research of yesteryears (the early 1900's). The only difference being moderate subtle changes & the biggest improvement in the field of "Metalurgy". Ross, Thanks for the suggestion about the magaizine-I'll have to check it out & welcome to the site. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree, cyl.pressures will depend on the same dynamics "What kind of power should my engine make". The very same answers to that question will answer your question. There's a formula I've put into Excel that I thought was pretty cool; incoperates the P-L-A-N / 33,000 = Horspower. I've seen this formula in a few auto math books...& finally decided to [figure it out]! What does that do for your question(?); good question (tongue & cheek). Think of an air tank that has a tire valve on it...as you apply compressor air on it you can see the PSI gauge climb...higher & higher & higher till you remove the air line. What ever reading you stop at equals the amount of air you have installed in the tank. This is similar to your engine's cylinders. We all know the engine has intake/exhaust valves that allow air to enter & exit at predetermined times (the camshaft). Go back to your air tank...now depress your bleeder valve & what does the needle do; of course it decendes towards the "0" indicator; the needle will continue to loose pressure till you release the bleeder valve. However much air you release will determine how much air remains in the tank. Understand this is exactly what is taking place on your engine & is why its hard to say; your pressures are good/bad w/out knowing the camshaft's profile & the power band of the engine. The cam opens/closes & allows the air to enter/exit; while the compression determines how much air will be compressed & at what speed the air enters/exists will determine how much air is actually compressed...this will determine your cyl's psi figures. Again that all depends on how well your engine cyl's are sealing. I plugged the 454 bore/stroke into my P-L-A-N / 33,000 equation & it gave your psi ratings for (street engine) of 350hp & 386ft.lbs at 5000rpms. The "P" in P-L-A-N stands for MEP (Indicated) Mean Effective Pressure, the "L" stands for Length of the stroke, the "A" stands for top surface area of one piston in sq.in's while the "N" stands for the number of power strokes per minute. Its pretty cool when you alter one/or all of the perameters (Bore, Stroke, RPM's, HP, Torque) & watch the numbers change...really helps you understand what changes occur when rpm builds! Still this equation doesnt take into account specific cam timing (that which controls the filling/bleeding of the cylinders)...it picks up where the camshaft leaves off...so there is still some additional math to do afterward; isnt there always(?)! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: ...,if the turbos are sized/used in a optimum part of their compressor map..,Just wondering about the need for intercooling at lower boost.., Turbo Guru's, I've recently found myself reading up on the Turbo scene & surprisgingly understanding what I was reading. Had the book for about a year & didnt really understand it; since my most recent breakthru w/relationships between airflow, density & compression I thought I would re-read the Turbo book (amazing how the knowledge dominoes fall once one light bulb comes on). My question is since Pete broght it up (optimum turbo) my question is what is considered optimum for an engine. I understand tight, moderate, broad turbo maps & understand the rpm's will be a huge factor...but what about "Turbine Speed". When comparing turbo maps what is considered "Spinning your Turbo" too fast or too slow? As you look at the surge line & plotting your "Turbo Efficiency" for your given environment...what speed is too fast for the turbine; 70k, 80k, or 90k & above? Pete, about the heat exchanger -vs- low boost; wouldnt the intercooler's rating depend on how much the temp is actually lowered? Wouldnt low boost actually benefit from exhaust temp's being lowered slightly...again-depending on the intercoolers rating(?). Cool discussion; especially since I've been reading on turbo's lateley. I've even entertained the TT 4.3/V6 set up in a Z; or even the TT GNZ...also just dreaming. Once again my ideas out weigh my pocket book. Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Non-Turbo" Inliner) [ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Frank/Les, I'm w/you guys on the 70/Early 80's fender vents. I've already bought two T/A Vents for if/when I ever make my swap. The T/A Vents are of two pieces per side. The outer cosmetic part of the T/A Vent we see viewing the T/A from the side can be unbolted from the inside & removed; yet the 2nd piece is spot welded onto the fender. The shop I bought my left/right cosmetic pieces from was a T/A collector & had agreed to sell me a pair of T/A fenders for $40 a piece where I'ld be able to cut the "Spot Welded" section off for graphing onto my fender. I knew my project was on hold & I'ld not be making any changes to the body for some time. I didnt care to [waste/canibalize] two perfectly good fenders, even if they were T/A fenders, & opted to purchase the outer pieces only. You can always find bent T/A fenders at a later date w/the Vents still unharmed...advised the Shop Owner I'ld wait on the inner braces for now. If you want your outer pieces to fit flush onto the fender you will need the inner pieces that are spot welded to the original T/A fenders...or fabricate another yet similar brace for the outer pieces. I've rested the fender vents, just behind my front wheels, on my door molding that extends to the front fender wells & they really look like they'ld look quite well...only problem is if/when you decide to mount them-they will interfere w/the inner fender well's plastic mud protectors & you'ld have to join the vent to the engine w/a tube of some sort. I've also thought about installing an Electrical Fan inside that tube so when the electrical fan (Tauraus or 5.0 electrical fan) kicks on the smaller elect.fans in the tubes to the T/A fender vents would also kick on & vent the underhood air outward...anyway/just passing my thoughts on. I'm sure like everything else on our cars....its gonna take time/more time...& more time & so on. Anyone have pictures of a Z w/the T/A fender vents already installed? If pictures exist I'ld really like to see them posted!!! Kevin (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

I also like the "Subtle" approach & agree that a few chrome badges really set off a car/anything more is gaudy. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Now see, this is why I live in the boonies. I'm so far away from the beaten path you'ld have to get lost a dozen times & then accidently stumble into my 1/4 mile driveway before you found where I lived. The only noise problem I have is after a hard rain...the bubba's & their 4WD'ers come out to a nearby "Black Gumbo" road that really presents a "Challenge" to any red blooded 4WD'er...so for a few hours (always after 10pm) you can hear their engines racing while attempting "to not get stuck" slightly annoying...but I'll live w/that as opposed to the loud exhaust bikers anyday. (I still like the HD...probably wont ever own one-but like them anyway). Some people who visit have found it hard sleeping at night due to the noisey crickets, frogs & coyotes howling...(Shoot, that's all music to my ears & puts me in Na-Na land). Except for the "Whipper'Wills" (sp?) I have litterally pulled an Elmer Fud & chased those "Nocturnal" birds througout the nights-& into the wee hours of the mornings before finally getting a "kill". The Whipper'Will begin their territorial/mating call at dusk & continue all thruout the night. They triangulate (believe me-I know them well from hunting them down) & have almost been pushed to the point of purchasing night vision so I could hunt them down "quicker". For now, the area is safe & considered a "Whipper'Will Free Zone"; till next season. I HATE WHIPPER'WILLS!!! I will agree that there is one thing I cant stand...& that is to be awakened by inconsiderate people...if its an accident "So Be It" but if its from "inconsiderateness" then is quite annoying! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hey, the bare metal dash isnt that bad; look at it this way. Now you can enjoy your 20 minute joy ride around town & get your tan at the same time (Hmmm?). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)