Kevin Shasteen

What are their dimensions? This seems to come up quite often. I stumbled onto an excellant chart in a book that I've had for quite sometime but hadnt read all the way thru; as of yesturday I read all the way thru it and discovered the chart. The book is entitled: "Crate Motor Buyers Guide" compiled by John Baechtel and published by SA-Design w/a copywrite date of 1996. Anyway it has a lot of excellant info besides the dimension chart. The chart list all the sides: front to rear, side to side & up to down on the V8's only...sorry V6 guys-no dimensions on the V6's. But if anyone is interested in a decent chart-go check the book out at your nearest B&N. Its a yellow book w/blue & red lettering and the Chart is on Page 97. (Wish I could scan the book & knew how to post it here) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Is your alternator consist of an internal voltage regulator or an external regulator mounted somewhere on the inner fender or the firewall. When Voltage Regulators go bad they sometimes will give the symptoms your desribing, AKA: The alternator gauge indicates it's charging while the engine is runing but while the car is parked it will drain the battery. Before replacing anything make sure all your grounds w/in the ignition/charging circuit have good clean contact surfaces & their wires have not become corroded or rusted. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Whewww! That was a close one. For a few hours I actually thought I was gonna have to learn how to scan, file & email that file! Just the thought of learning new computer stuff was hurting my brain; haha. Glad someone else already had what you needed in the format which was needed. Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Computer Illiterate" Inliner) PS: That is the way you spell Illiterate(?), isnt it?

Hey Lance, Glad you found the board & to join in. The answer to your question is: the extra weight wont make that much difference in the long run. I too have a 2+2 & purchased it w/the intent of the SBC transplant. I purchased it because the 2+2 has a larger brake booster and the entire car is structured a little heavier than the coupe; Better Body Stiffness/Integritywise. I'm guessing the extra 6 or 8 inches will aid in a slightly smoother ride due to the longer wheelbase (probably not-but that was my thinking). When your talking about a 350hp/400hp engine; the extra 200/300 lbs is basically minimal & equal to driving w/a passenger in the car. If your transplant is done properly the difference will be almost unnoticeable. The difference is more of a cosmetic difference in that most people prefer the coupe over the 2+2. I've owned a 73 coupe many years ago (fun car), however, I actually like my 2+2 more. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree that your problem is the low comp. pistons; the 383 should be an excellant solution. You'ld easily spend the $2200 on machining & proper building of your 350 if done correctly. Find out the actual spec's on the 383 & let us know (curious as a cat I am I am Sam I am). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Do you need copies of all the electronics? 1) The Engine Electronics chaptor has 50 pages in it 2) The Body Electronics has 110 pages The Body Electronics has about 10 pages that contain actual Circuit Diagrams while that chaptor also has the relay/switch diagrams. Do you need all of them? If so I can email them to you but as stated before I'ld have to use my mother's computer & I dont mind doing that....yet you realize you're forcing me to "EDUMACATE" myself on how to: . Scan . Create a File . Then transfer that file to an email site Do you realize, for me at least/you're asking quite a lot Give me a few days to learn the process & to get in touch w/Mom & her schedule/as well as her computer, & I'll attempt to begin sending them your way. Maybe a week; but I will begin sending them once I've figured it out. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Make sue you know the history of those heads; they may have been milled a time or two...or three! Be sure & check w/a local machinest whose knowledgeable on those heads...and not merely a machinest who has an ego but no reputation to match! You want honest answers to serious questions. BTW: if you're putting those heads on a "Bone-Stock" low perf.engine then you might consider buying a cheapy $110 cam/lifters from someone. You dont have to go hog wild but a mild increase in cam spec's should be more than adequate even if you're using low comp. pistons! Not knowing your intent/bank account another consideration in choosing your cam is one that will be on the edge of "Almost Too Big" for those pistons...further down the line you can purchase a alluminum intake to better match the cam & heads; a mild dual-plane would supplement a mild perf.cam nicely w/out placing too much a burden on your stock pistons. One other thing if/when you want to up your cam..dont forget to think about your valve springs. Being Double Hump Heads they may already have pretty decent springs/ya never know till properly checked. Just something to think about. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ October 29, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Jim, It just so happens that I have a 74 FSM. I dont have a scanner but my Mother does; I can make copies of the wiring for the 74 & have it emailed to you but will have to do it from her computer. BTW: Nissan Dealers will sell you an entire FSM on CD...I think they're somewhere around $35 ti $45; if you got the change to spare. I didnt have a CD-Rom at the time so I bought the paper manual instead. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ahhh, The old Olds/Diesel 350 conversion to gas thing(?) huh. It just so happens while working at MIC (Subsidiary of GM) an ole codjer (Sp?) that was about to retire allowed me to raid his desk before the actual day of his retirement. In his overhead he had a book entitled, "Diesel Engine" an official GM/Product Service Training Manual. He obtained if from a training class he'ld been to many moons prior my ever meeting him. The book was used to train the dealers & their tech's on the Olds 350 Diesel & how to convert the from Diesel to a gas...if one so desired. So of course I snagged it rather quickly. The engine was actually a 455 Olds on the ouside w/the internals equal to the displacement of 350 but incorporated beefier everything than a normal 350. So if this is the diesel you are referring to then none of it that I'm aware of is swappable w/a SBC. Since this book was out of print in the late 70's early 80's anyone wanting info on converting an Olds Diesel 350 to a gas engine can obtain that info from Joe Mondello as his technical manual goes into full detail of what is needed to complete the process as well. Yes, I have that book also. Just FWI: the 350 Diesel is an Olds block & there is more to it than merely swapping cyl.heads, intake & fuel system. From what I've heard, anyone who goes to the trouble of conveting one to gas will have a real stout street/strip engine. The later Olds diesels also used roller cams & lifters; a nice benefit for a mild gas engine after its conversion...indeed! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Daveyz, I agree that you are probably experiencing a relay problem of some sort. I had problems w/my fuel system & it turned out being a fuel pump relay. In my quest for determing the problem I discovered that my z (1978 bone stock/per the factory manual) had 3 fuel injection relays. . Fuel Pump Relay . Fuel Injection Harness Relay . Fuel Pump Controller Relay One Fuel Pump Relay engages the fuel pump when the ignition switch is engaged, the ECM does a quick check of all FI components in the harness & if everythings good to go then it allows the engine to keep running. Now, if the ecm detects a defect in the harness then the ECM shuts the Fuel Pump Controller Relay down & your engine dies! Or you may just have a defective Fuel Pump Controller Relay. My problem was a Defective Fuel Pump Relay. I bought a new one from AutoZone, special ordered & took a few days. Once I installed it & the car started immediately. If you have a factory manual it gives in detail how to check your relays...which prongs to power & which prongs to ground during testing. Check your manuals. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I came across a book at B&N (didnt buy it) but it was about "Nitrous Oxide"-all the ins' & outs & discussed in great detail, including fuel, on what is needed & had multiple formulae for making those conclusions. I dont remember the title of the book but the cover was blue & had NOS on the cover in white lettering. I almost bought it & wanted it badly because of its graphs on fuel needs, requirements & its calculations...but didnt buy it as I already had 4 perf.books I was purchasing at that time: 2 books beyond my monthly quota (yea I'm a gearhead outa control). The title may have been something like "How to Install & Use Nitrous"...or something as simple as that. Just FYI. I'm not sure the book itself speaks about actual fuel rail size..but what it did say (& I wrote this down in my little black HiPerf. book) that: I) Fuel Requirements for High Flow Fuel System . Main Fuel Line should be size 10AN . The Fuel Line between the fuel tank & fuel filter should be size 12AN . The line from the filter to the pumpshould revert back to a size 10AN . The bypass/return line from the pump should be a size 8AN Sorry; nothing on actual fuel rail size Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ October 27, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

5thGear, You mentioned using a 350 out of a Van that came from the mfg w/an auto trans & asked if you can run a 5spd manual trans. Be sure when you seperate the eng & auto trans that you confirm your crankshaft has a recess in it that will accept the input shaft from the new 5spd as that recess is where the pilot bearing rests & the input shaft nose fits in the center of the pilot bearing/bushing. Some crankshafts whose engines were hooked up to automatics were not machined w/this recess in it-therefore if you plan on using that crankshaft & it doesnt already have the recess you will have to have one machined-I had to do this once w/an Olds 455...it cost me about $100. Just FYI! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

That price isnt too much for me; when I dream I always dream big! Oh-huh/what...you mean too much as in "Reality" who said anything about reality? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I hate problems like this-they'll drive you crazy. Especially if/when you've spent this much time/money on the car. These are my experiences w/idle or lack of idle problems. 1) Helped a friend w/260 Olds V8. Started the engine after rebuilding it...Engine wouldn't idle below 2500 rpm's; scared us silly. Turned out the parts shop gave us Olds 350 Intake manifold gaskets which caused a vacuum leak. Rpl the gaskets & the car idled down to 650 rpm's. 2) Myself & the same friend were hot rodding a 73 Olds 455/V8. Again, rebuild engine: new cam, new 750 Holley, new dist...yada yada yada. The car would not start...AT ALL! We tried the dist in all positions-never made a difference. I took the timing chain cover off & confirmed the timing marks were correct...they were. We finally decided the "New Carb" was running extrememly rich. Exchanged the Carb & it fired up immediately. 3) Had a Intern'l Scout w/304 V8. It had been sitting for years. It wouldnt start so I put a used coil on it...engine fired up but as it warmed up the engine would stumble. Turned out one of the cyl.heads was cracked. When I'ld take it for a test drive it had no power the faster I tried to go as usual w/a cracked head, the temp gauge got hot/in the red but wouldnt "Overheat" till all the coolant was ran out the tail pipe. 4)This was kind of dangerous; but we were careful. Again-the same friend & I were rebuilding a SBC 350 in a P/Up. The engine was rebuilt & in the truck. We hadnt installed the carb nor attached the fuel lines to anything....the truck had to be moved (for whatever reason I dont remember) and we had no time to install the carb. My friend & I used an oil squirt can filled w/fuel: while he cranked the ignition key I squirted fuel in the intake-the engine started & as it would begin to run out of fuel and begin to die, I'ld give it another squirt. Took us a few tries before we got it down well enough to move the truck. But we moved it about 20ft w/out any prob's and let it run long enough to check for leaks as the engine warmed up...we ran out of fuel in the squirt can but it worked flawlessly. ***Side-Note*** If your life insurance policy is paid up & you're feeling brave-try removing the carb & squirting fuel in the intake after the ignition key is cranked. "Remember" I was a professional..please do not try this at home! I dont accept any mishaps (that's my disclaimer!). 5) On another car my friend & I bought where the previous owner claimed the car ran rough & would die at idle....we discovered the radiator cooler tubes were punctured allowing ATF in the coolant which overheated the engine...causing the owner to think he had a blown head gasket. (I wasnt sure if you had an automatic or standard trans-but mentioned this one anyway). Just of the top of my head: 1) What is the history of your engine; specifically the cyl.heads? 2) When the cyl.heads were seperate from the engine were they magnafluxed? 3) Are the cyl.heads remanufactured? Valves replaced? Valve Seats replaced? New valves on Old Valve Seats? 4) If your rocker arms are not adjustable & the new valves/old valves are resting on old valve seats on cyl.heads that were improperly "Rebuild"...then as you tighten the rockers you think you've set them correctly(?) when actually you've put excessive pre-load on the valves causing the engine to lose its sealing capabilities (the same signature as a camshaft w/huge lift/duration-short LSA). In other words-your engine may not be sealing: during a cold start up your carb is running rich-so idle is mostly smooth. As the engine/carb choke warm up-the carb leans and your engine tries to die because it's: a) getting to much fuel due to the cyl's losing their pressure & not sucking the fuel into the cyl's caused from the valves never closing due to the improper geometry from used valves or used valve seats(?) getting to little fuel to the actual combustion chamber due to the cyl's losing their "pull" from not sealing due to bad geometry of your valves/valve seats(?) therefore the vaccum signal to the base of the carb is minimzed due to the cyl's not sealing. When I rebuild my 350/V8 Olds for my Cutlass I purchased a tool made by Joe Mondello where you can check the Valve Stem Tip's height right at the point where the rocker arm touches. Turns out my valve stem's where slightly low. It took my machinest two days before he found new Int/Exh valves that were the proper length! You've already ruled out an external vaccum leak-this means you have an internal leak...effecting your fuel delivery to the combustion chambers. That's my story & I'm sticking to it! If you havent ran a comp.check or a leak down test-I'ld do that before giving up on your engine. Whewww! That was a mouthful. Just brainstorming from the top of my head-hoped some of this was helpful! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ok, this is the skinny on Hypereutectic pistons per David Vizard's book "Vol 1/How To Build HP"...cant believe I actually found this book as it was the first Hi.Perf. book I bought & has a copywrite date of 1990(!) Wow, almost 12 years already gone since then-where'ld the time go? Anyway: Hyper-Eutectic pistons were pioneered in England & as of 1990 were being mfg'd both in England & America. They're called Hyper-Eutectic because of their mfg'ing process. Hyper: Material that is cast at a higher temperature (than normal piston casting temp's)....and, Eutectic: means melting point So, in other words-they are cast at a higher melting point. Their hardness is due to the material used & the higher heat treatment process which results in a piston that is cast yet contracts/retracts similar to a forged piston. The minimal expansion rate of the Hyper-Eutectic pistons allows for a tighter piston skirt clearance which means a tigher piston fit in the cylinder. Vizard claims the tolerance of .0022-.0030inch Piston/Cylinder clearances. The tighter piston fit also translates into less piston slap & on a Hi.Perf. engine also means a quieter engine on the street (less muffling) due to lesser blow-by. Vizard claims (at the time of this book/1990) his experiences were such that a Hyper-Eutectic piston can be used in engines where the HP/Cubic Inch ratio DOES NOT exceed 1.1hp/cu.in. He also says that Hyper pistons work great on all 4cyl's under 100 cu.in's upto 1.5hp/cu.in's. I believe the time Vizard wrote this book KB Pistons Mfg was just beginning to come on strong. I do believe that KB is the leader in Hyper-Eutectic pistons. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Steelman, I agree that we all need 2nd chances; please, in the future-read your post before adding it-All members here are just that...members in search of more power for our Z's & our hobbies are delayed for whatever reasons. Sometimes we think one way & we end up speaking it in another.., then add the internet where only the words are read while the inference in our voices are not heard; it can really end up causing quite a stir of misunderstandings. I refrained from coming to Scottie's aid (it was hard not to) but I had hoped you would post a 2nd time claiming no harm was intended: which you did & I appreciate that jesture. Glad you reposted & I look forward to your progress on your converstion of your Z. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Nice to see the faces behind the names. I just learned of the Internet only a year ago-now I'm expected to figure out how to post a pic of myself, slide ruler & all(?). Not sure I can figure that one out. Pete; I didnt visualize you looking like you do (as if I could); I guess I figured you to be a "Father Time" kind of guy. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Did I ever mention that I'm still an Inliner? Stock original 78 280z bought from the original owner. Odometer now shows 180k & still gets 23mpg. A/C works great, 4spd (yea-couldnt believe it was a 78 & still had a 4spd), 3.545 rear w/stock wimpy wheels/tires. Wish list...377 SBC/T-56 & dido on ScottieGNZ's Corvette rear swap...and cant forget my A/C-gotta have my A/C if/when I get to do the swap; oh yea-dont forget the brakes all points in between. Did I mention it was still a boneb stock Inliner? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I just responded to your previous post on your actual eng.swap. Glad to hear such good results. Your times are very respectable...and gas mileage to boot! Nicely done Scott. Since you indicated the engine was lighter & it sits back further than the inline6; tell us how it handles! I Bet it's quite responsive! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Scott, Congrats on making it to this point on a basically previously undocumented engine swap. I'm sure you wont hesitate in telling us how it handles once you get to that poit! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

That will be interesting to say the least. One thing you can count on; if/when the Asian car makers decide to do something auto-performance wise-they usually have one thing in mind...WINNING! I havent really kept up on pro-stock myself; but I guess I'll be keeping an ear out for that Eastern Invasion. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Pete, I dont think your cam is toooo BIG; if I remember correctly you were thinking about a much bigger cam prior to this choice. I think you have chosen wisely! Cant wait to hear about your first test drive. Be sure to initiate your son to the garage by applying war paint (HD Axle grease) on his nose & cheeks...then say something like, "There's no substitute for Cubic Inches".., then do some [secret hand shake] only you & he knows-then let'em know he's now an official mechineck's apprentice: maybe give him a shirt collar pin of a car. I think its cool for him/you bonding w/cars in the garage. I have a nephew that used to sleep w/hotwheels & cried all night long if you didnt allow him to sleep w/five of his "chosen" hotwheels. Seriously, he wouldnt go to sleep; all night long he'ld cry until you let him pick his favorite cars...yea-guess you can say he's doomed to the hobby. At age three-he'ld watch NASCAR races on Sunday from beginning to the end. He's now 5 & if you ask him what he wants to be when he grows up-he'll tell ya he wants to be a Race Car Driver in Texas...not so sure just racing in Texas is gonna get him anywhere-but it's cute to ask him & listen for his response. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Good to hear you're making progress Pete. For furture ref. most machine shops dont remove the galley plugs prior to hot tanking a block. The high dollar machine shops who have a reputation to protect will remove the galley plugs...but the average run of the mill machine shop wont remove them. Its always cheap insurance to take some engine block brushes to clean the orifices out w/hot water & soap. I have an old CC catalogue...what is the lift/LDA of your new cam of choice. Looking forward to reading your post about your first test drive! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hey Mike: didnt ScottieGNZ post that picture about 6.8 months ago...dont know if that is actually ScottieGNX but I remember him posting that picture a while back. Now, if we could just mount the battery in the rear of the car...maybe-just maybe that turbo would fit . Kevin Shasteen (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I've read where Physist claim the closer your get to the basic structure of a theory in physics the simpler the explanation for that theory will be. Your engine as complicated as it may be..still needs fuel/dont forget the gas can! Good story & sorry for the frustration...been there-done that. Kevin, Yea,Still an Inliner)