Kevin Shasteen

I agree w/the previous question-Why do you think its Fuel Related? I bet its electronic as in Relays! About a year ago I had a similar problem; went to the store...car running fine; came out about 15 minutes later-car started just fine. Shifted into 1st & drove away; just as I shifted into 2nd....the car died; w/out warning it just died. Long story short-it was a failed fuel pump relay! My z is a 78 280Z so I dont know if you have the relays in the same location or not. There are three relays; 1) Fuel Injection Harness Relay, 2) Fuel Pump Relay 3) Fuel Pump Controller Relay. My book has the power flow as follows: Ignition key turns on & power the fuel pump A)The Fuel Injector Pump Controller Relay allows the Fuel Pump Relay to stay on as long as there are no problems w/any other fuel injector components in that wiring circuit: unless C)The key ignition is not turned all the way over to power the starter, then D) The Fuel Pump Controller Relay kicks in & overrides the E) Fuel Pump Relay...thus no power. Any one of those relays could going bad could give a symptom of a "Fuel Problem" when actually you have a relay that is bad. Check your book for where the relays are located in your car. Pull all three & take them to a local Nissan Dealer for testing-or if you have a factory Nissan (Datsun) service manual-that manual will give instructions for testing each relay. You have to use jumper wires on the relays & apply 12 volts to the correct prongs on the relays; then test the other relay prongs as the book instructs in the appropriate sequence: to know the sequence you'll need a Datsun/Nissan manual. Chilton & the other manuals rarely list this in their books-so dont buy one of theirs thinking this process will be there-because it wont. To confirm your fuel pump is working; jack the rear up & set the car on jack stands. Bring an extra battery w/you along w/jumper wires that have gator teeth on the ends. Disconnect your fuel pump leads (- & +) from the fuel pump. Then connect your jumper leads to each terminal on the fuel pump & likewise to the correct terminal on your extra battery...if you hear the fuel pump come on (which it should immediately) then you dont have a fuel pump problem & can concetrate your efforts at the front of the car instead. Hope this helps/I known how it feels to leave your car overnight in an area that is questionable. I had to leave my car two nights & three days while I tripped my way through the repair process. I'ld go there to where my car was parked twice a day & move the car (by hand-roll it) to another parking place just to make it look like the car was being driven & not abandoned! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 15, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ] [ July 15, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

quote: Originally posted by 283z: also in regards to the intake volume i had a question for you.. why would such a large volume intake port (190-210cc) be required to get 375 hp out of a 302 if you can get 420 hp with the edelbrock rpm heads on a 350 when the rpm heads only use a 170 cc tract? just wondering... 283z, To answer your question about the power a 350 makes -vs- the power a 283 or 302 makes w/the identical cyl.heads. It has to do w/displacement; more specifically-displacement per cylinder! Upon one full swept volume (Piston moving from TDC to BDC) of one cylinder a 283 has 35.37 cubes to play with while a 302 has 37.75 cubes and a 350 has 43.75 cu.in's to play with...the 350 has considerable more cubes which allows it to reach peak power much easier. The smaller displacements have to kind of [work their way up to peak power]. Anyone ever heard those stories of "I have this friend w/money out the wazoo & everytime some new Hipo engine part hits the streets-he's the first to buy it & the other day he purchased & installed the largest cyl.heads on his engine they made-he thought he'ld improve his engine.....only to find out his engine is now a dog?" This story is heard all the time & its because the guy didnt consider the basics of an engine; that being an engine is an air pump! That's why you have to consider the Port Velocity, Port Pressure & the Density of the air w/in the ports if you can control it as well as the factors that control these peremters. That is also why you cant just start swapping cyl.heads from one displacement to another & hope for good things to happen; you have to match your components to each other for a specific goal. On a Cyl.Head you have to consider the Intake Port Entry Area, Intake Port cc's, Valve Area, Combustion Chamber cc's & Exhaust Port cc's; all these dynamics will work w/the camshaft to make or brake your performance as they directly effect the characteristics of the air w/in them. If you're going to build an engine it should be built around the camshaft & work your way outward. I agree w/Pete on the piston pop-up's. You can't measure pop-up's like you can flat tops. The pop-up's are not even all the way around. The dome measurement is on top of the piston comp.height but that measurement doesnt automatically translate into an easy formula for determining its dome cc's-how much is it taking away from the combustion chamber in cc's is something you'll have to perform when you cc the piston w/in the cyl.bore. IMO: I'ld prefer to use a 6" rod if one could get away w/it. Timing would be that much better; IMHO. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dan, I'm gonna kind of rattle off an idea or two & then I'll give you my slant of cyl.head's from what I've read. For starters, the 283 SBC/V8 has a rather large Piston Comp.Height of 1.800; have you considered using a 6" rod? With the SBC's Block Deck Height of 9.025"; take this figure & deduct half the 3.000" stroke of 1.5", a 6" rod & you'ld still have 1.520" flat tops for a piston comp.height: all this with a .005" Piston/Block Deck Clearance for squaring your block up(?). Now, bout your cylinder heads; surely you know there's more to cyl.heads than just the cyl.heads....such as, which camshaft you're going to use. (As he responds-Yes I know that & quit calling my Shirley!). When looking at Cyl.Heads you have to consider Volume, Mass & Velocity. The mass of the air is out of our control, usually, so we need to concentrate on the Volume of the Ports & at what Velocity the air will be flowing thru your engine....this entails Displacement of your engine & RPM's of that Displacement. Because you've mentioned the 283 & possibly the 302-I think its safe to assume you'ld like to build a "High Winder". So I'll assume a solid/definate 6500 rpm's for our hypothetical engine. My first question to you is, "What Compressions Ratio are you looking for? Race Gas or is this to be a daily driver to be ran on Pump Gas. Again I'll assume a daily driver & figure 9.5:1 Comp.Ratio for a 291/V8. This would mean that your final Cyl.Head Combustion Chamber (Final-means you've already considered Head Gasket Crushed Thickness, Piston Dish cc's/Dome cc's, Piston Deck to Block Deck Clearance cc's along with your Combustion Chamber cc's) would require a Final 70.33 cc Combustion Chamber. Now we have the Final Combustion Chamber; now we need to know what port flow is required for your 6500 rpms. This entails the Cyl.Head's Intake Port Entry, in sq.in's, as it is this port entry which is the main decider of your engine's peak power/rpms. You engine Displacement w/6500rpms indicates your port entry requirement of 1.52 sq.in's; this is rather small/easy to find with today's standards: I would shoot for a 1.8sq.in's to 2.0sq.in's intake port entry at the cylinder head-this will give you the best of both worlds & allow a better "Peak HP" pull at high rpm. The problem arises when you try to determine your HP needs. The airflow Velocity is hurt by smaller Intake Port CFM's of 160/170 even up to 180...thus requiring a CFM of 190cfm or greater to obtain the HP needs to get you to your 6500rpms. This is all good for high rpm needs but horrible for low rpm needs! A 190cfm intake port for your Displacment w/a Hydraulic Roller is good for up to 325hp-then your peak HP will begin to fall. This means you'll need a 200 to 220cfm cyl.head which would be good for 340 to 375hp (FWHP). Remember-for every give there is a take! This is a mathmatical law of "Inverse Proportions". In other words: a job will take longer to do if lesser men are available to do the job/likewise-the job is finished quicker if more men are available to do the job. You get somewhere quicker if you drive faster (usually)/likewise-it'll take longer to get there if you drive slower! Thus-you have to decide: do you want low rpm stability or do you want high rpm capability! "Lingenfelter" likes to use his Interport Relationship when deciding Cyl.Heads. That is, to divide the Exhaust Port CFM into the Intake Port CFM to obtain a percentage: such as 85/195=.44%. Further, Lingenfelter likes a cyl.head whose E/I% is around 75%-85%; but then he's pushing the 10K rpm limits also! "Ed Staffel" of Chevy Rat Motors (performance book) prefers to use the ratio created by obtaining the Intake Valve sq.in's by the Total Displacement per one Cylinder. So if you're building a 291/V8 you'ld divide your total displacement by 8 (#of cyl's) for 36.48. Then you'ld take your intake valve diameter 2.02 & square it then multiply it by .7854 like so: 2.02^2 x .7854 = 3.20 sq.in's. Now divide the Cylinder's total swept volume by the valve area's sq.in's like so: 36.48/3.20=11.4 ratio. If you begin using this technique you will begin to understand its relationship to a larger port engine -vs- small port engine; keeping in mind a larger port/larger valve will hurt airflow at lower rpm's & the engine may spit/sputter till it reaches it's target peak power. "David Vizard" of How to Build & Modify SBC Cyl.Heads" like to take the opposite approach to the intake valve & the Cyl.'s Total Swept Volume. Vizard like to see how many Sq.In's of Intake Valve area there are to each Cubiv.Inch of Displacement per cylinder...such as 3.20/36.48=.087 sq.in's per cu.in of cyl.displacement. Vizard also likes to take the CFM per the Cyl.Head Intake Port & divide the Total Cyl.Swept Volume into the Cyl.Head's Port CFM at max lift like so: lets say your cyl.head flows 220 CFM @ .500" lift: 220/36.48=6.03 CFM per Cu.In w/in one total Cyl.Swept Volume of Displacment. One more thing about the cam; using the above 9.5:1 Req.Comp.Ratio for a 291/V8 running on pump gas: you'ld need a camshaft whose advertised "Seat to Seat" Intake Valve Closing (taken at .0044") closed the intake valve at 46* ABDC. The Lift/Lobe Seperation angle will be yours to decide as this will be the determining factor of "how fast" you'ld want your engine to get there; in other words-do you want your rpm to rev quickly (peaky) or do you prefer its pull to be a little more "broad" of a rev. Hope I heldped & didnt confuse; good luck/keep us informed! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 13, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

I havent retro-fit my brakes w/an upgrade yet; but whenever I need to repair a hydraulic hard line...I too simply cut out the bad spot (fitting or damaged section of the line) & flare a new end to seal the damaged line. You can go to a pep-boys, western auto or find a wholesaler in your area that sells automotive tools & buy a flaring kit...then you can flare you own lines. You'll also need to buy line cutters....I went to Sears & bought 3 different size cutters; 1)large 2)medium 3)small cutters (we're talking brake/clutch line sizes here...not "Plumbing Pipe Line sizes"). You may also need to buy some line benders. Eastwood sells some nice tubing benders w/wheels that roll w/the bend so that your tubing at the bend doenst "kink" on you. I bought both the larger & the smaller pair Eastwood sells....I've used them multiple times & have found them quite applicable-easy to use. You can buy new "Steel Lines" from any auto parts store. If you plan on replacine an entire line-always buy an extra line; chances are you may damage one of the lines to the point it cant be used & if you have an extra line w/you this will keep you from having to make a second trip to the parts store. Practice your bending & flaring on these lines before attempting to modify your existing lines...unless you decide to replace the entire line as an assembly. W/a little practice you will impress youself w/the ability to bend your tubing & flare you own ends. Also, if/when you're dealing w/stubborn bleeder valves that refuse to seal-you can try teflon tape on their threads. Buy yourself a flaring kit, K-D tool kit being the most popular do-it-youself kit can usually be found on the Pep-Boys shelves. K-D sells both an ISO kit & a Double Flare Kit. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) PS: When you flare you own lines...dont forget to slide the new fitting on the line (in the correct position) prior to flaring the line end (Hey-dont look at me like that-of course I've never flared a line end only to realize I've left off the new fitting! Okay...busted-I did that onece before!). [ July 12, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Anyone whose not sure what components to use in their next/current SBC rebuild should buy a copy of this months issue of Chevy High Perf. The magazine says "Sept 2001"& has the title of the article on its front cover "7 Best Power Combos". In it they give pretty good descriptions of "7 Different Builds" from the carb, intake, cam & a description of which cyl.heads were used. On top of that the article also gives a dyno run of the max torque/hp each build produced. There were a few mild buidls, a few moderate builds, a few max'd out builds & then a few "Rat" builds to satisfy you BBC's guys. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike kZ, So we know its a high gear your trans is stuck in; "high gear" being 6th, 5th & maybe even 4th. If memory serves me correctly-the 1st gear is at the very front of the trans case-with each succeding gear, inside the case, going rearward toward the shifter being 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th & 6th. Further, if memory serves me correctly; 1st & 2nd share the same shifter fork, 3rd & 4th share a shifter fork & 5th & 6th would then share the same shifter fork with also reverse just to the side of/and below the main shaft & slightly above the countershaft of the 5th/6th gear & reverse would have its own engagement mechanism....sometimes called a reverse idler gear/ If this is correct then your shifter fork or shifter linkage that is malfunctioning is toward the rear of the case! I'm not familiar w/T-56 inner guts but this is the way a 5spd is put together, a 6spd shouldnt be too different. Just thinking out loud/hope this helps. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 10, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

I agree w/Bubf; buy forged pop-up's & have the domes milled. This would be a lot cheaper than milling the block, cylinder heads & possibly the intake manifold(?) if needed. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Nice mirror/lake-shore reflection on the new paint...rally looks nice. I'm a sucker for the Panasports & the G-nose on the Z! Looks really good. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Well Pete; FWIW-it you were closer & upon completion of your car...I'ld throw you a "Coming Out Party"...as in your Z coming out of the Garage! Not to many people spend that much time restoring a car....I bet you're as giddy as a school girl whose just been asked out to the prom....I know I'm looking forward to your car being completed; keep us informed big Daddy-Ehhh! (sorry for the Elvis impersonation; doesnt have the same effect on a computer...its late & I need to hit the sack). Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Non-Restored/Old Paint Faded" Inliner)

Its interesting the "Cost" of TPI keeps coming up, again & again. I say this as awhile back while searching the web for spec's on different engines I found a site where Ford posted their results of their "DOE Sensors Meetings. On that site they posted a pie chart of the Cost Breakdown of an engine, it reads as follows: 1) Fuel Injection 32% 2) Turbocharging 14% 3) Miscellaneous 13% 4) Cranktrain 12% 5) Valvetrain 8% 6) Cylinder Block 7% 7) Cylinder Heads 6% 8) EGR Systems 5% 9) Cooling Systems 2% 10) Covers 1% Now we see why the Fuel Injections Systems cost so much-its the one major system that appears to be rather involved; I'm sure the exp is directly related w/the computers high tech & its "degree" of efficiency/durability. Anyway, I found it all interesting. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Oh Crowned One; w/a name like that-its rather obvious that one day your Z will rule! Welcome to the site. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I dont know why I didnt think of it till reading the above posts...its just been som many years sine I've messed w/manal trans. Anyway-it seem pretty obvious that your trans likage in some manner has come loose. As you've mentioned-while up on jacks w/the engine on your wheels spin...which way do they spin-forwards or in reverse! Remember-your car will only move when the trans is in one gear as the countershaft in the trans can only spin in the counter rotation ratio of whatever [single] gear you have chosen. Therefore; if one of your linkages is broken & allowing a synchro to remain in gear-then when you shift & your shifter puts another synchro in another gear...the two gears are causing the counter gear to attempt to rotate in different speeds. The counter gear is a one piece unit-therefore it cant turn in two different speeds-or the engine will stall! You definately have internal shifter linkage prob's. Have you tried leaving the shifter in neutral & feathering the clutch pedal as you release it to see if the car will even move at all-if the car does move then you can determine what gear you're stuck in; that is is you have the elbo room to do this w/out worry of hitting other cars/passerbyers. If its stuck in a higher gear-this may not be such a good idea/weigh the consequences & by all means dont burn up your clutch or get your car stuck in such a manner that you cant turn it around & return home! After the few above posts-definately sounds like you have internal linkage problems and or, as Mike said, synco's acting up. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Will you get a chance to hear the engine run or is it already pulled? W/out knowing the actual spec's-any guess is simply a mere guess. If you cant hear it run or if you dont know the individual that rebuilt the engine-it could be a money pit. If you dont know the past of the engine-then you may be setting yourself up for a hard fall. Obtain as many facts as you can & give those facts their just worth (based on how well you know the guy)...remember-there are some people out there that operate off the old saying, "There's a sucker born every minute". What if the engine is a dog-the parts are terribly mismatched & that is why the engine was pulled! I'm not dogging your potential engine-just trying to raise your awareness of possiblities. Be patient in your apporoch when buying from strangers. If you cant prove the owners claims-then I'ld be leary & wouldnt offer the owner anything other than the obvious...in other words/only offer salvage yard prices till the owner can prove otherwise or get them to sign an agreement w/witnesses that the engine is a good engine (and define "Good"). Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Well Redline...for your first post-this is a goodie! I've never rebuilt a Datsun engine but I have a few books on them. How much was the head milled? From what I've read-The bright chain link must align with the cam-sprocket timing mark that agrees with the dowel hole which engages the cam-drive dowel and make sure the cam sprocket doesnt turn while you're slipping the chain downward/over the crank sprocket for assembly. Nother-words; as you've mentioned-there are three of them; if you have chosen to use the #1 dowel hole then you should also likewise use the #1 timing mark...the same goes for #2. If you've chosen the #2 mark-then the #2 dowel hole must also be used...ect,ect same goes for the #3. If I've missed something-then maybe someone who has actually rebuilt the Datsun I6 can chime in & help. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I think Davy is correct when referring to Pete's car as opposed to everyone else's car. Its kind of like dog years! Most of us spend about 6 months to 2 years making the swap while Pete takes 10 years...that makes Pete's Z quite older than the rest of our Z's. Hehe-I think we just created a new term Paraska Z years compared to normal Z-years! Sorry Pete; couldnt refuse; BTW when do you get your Z out of Paint Jail? In regards to the object of this thread-If you're gonna set the Odometer to "0" its always good to practive on an second hand extra Odometer; that way if you accidently break the Odometer w/the learning curve factor-you have nothing to worry about because its an extra & not the original Odometer...if it matters at all. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm not sure of the actual "wording" of the statutes when dealing w/odometer alterations-but the complaint is always listed as "Odometer [Fraud]"...fraud being the operative word. IMO (non-attourney oppinion) as long as he doenst sell the car claiming it to be the original odometer mileage & completely makes the new buyer fully aware of said odometer changes, then there cant be any fraud-thus negating the word [fraud] in the "Odometer Fraud" complaint. Again, IMO (non-attourney opinion) the fraud occurs when the odometer alterations are made and the new buyer is not made aware of the changes & the seller is selling the vehicle as if the new mileage is the original mileage; usually in an attempt to increase the market valure at time of sell-that is the fraud! The only argument to the above is; what is the actual statute in your state...does the statute have wording such as, "Any alterations to the odometer-regardless of prior knowledge or intent"; then that might get you in trouble. But then you have to ask-if the original mileage was above 100k which is the point at which most states exempt you car from keeping mileage records-then what does it matter as long as the new buyer is made aware of the odometer changes at the time of the purchase(?). I did the same thing on my International 4x4 when I rebuilt its powertrain; the odometer was an original 104k so I reset it to "0'...no intention of fraud-just wanted the odometer to read "0" upon my rebuild; of which, if/when I choose to sell it/the buyer will be made fully aware of the changes. If/when you sell your car-& you have altered the odometer-make sure you get the new buyer to sign an agreement admitting that he/she was made aware of said odometer alterations-& keep a copy for yourself; also make sure witnesses sign testifying they too witnessed both the buyer/seller agreeing that said alterations were made known at the time of selling/buying the car...that should keep you out of trouble. Keeping in mind-this is speculation on my part but I think that should keep anyone out of trouble. In my adjuster days (the company I worked for handled premises insurance Nationally for auto dealers) when we received an Odomoter Fraud claim-the charges of damages go right up the food chain. In other words-who had the knowledge of the [fraud]; The dealer was expected to buy the customer out of their car (what the customer had in it-basically null/void customer's purchase/the banks always work w/you) & would pretty much make the customer happy by basically giving the customer the car they wanted at cost. Then we-the insurance company-would make our claim to the previous owner of the car which sold said car to the dealer. It didnt matter if that previous owner had prior knowledge-they were accountable; this is were the "Consumer Rights" come in. If you are buying something & it doesnt matter if you are a wholesaler or retailer/if-when you buy something you are considered a "consumer". Courts look upon the consumer as being innocent-thusly the consumer laws lean toward protecting the consumer. Back to the story; so if the previous seller decides to play hard ball; they will be sued and the outcome (which all courts understand & adhere too) will rule in favor of the consumer; so the previous seller is forced to buy the car back. Then it is their turn to chase the previous seller & do the same thing to them....eventually the previous owner that had the actuall knowledge of the odometer fraud is located & either they buy the current owner out & attempt to hush/hush things or they are prosecuted-depends on the turn of events & if the State DA gets involved or the parties (claimant/insured) want to work things out themselves. Hopes that clears things up or adds a little light to the subject: atleast from an insurance point of view. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Sorry Racnoth, I never did my trans crossmember busings...maybe someone else can chime in! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike kZ, I always try to buy an auto magazine off the newstands when I see it has a T-56 article. Took me awhile to find it, but here it is. The best article too date was in GM High Tech Performance Sept 2000 issue. In it they took a T-56 thru a tear down & rebuild session. The shop performing the R&R were T-56 specialist; they even offer a T-56 Tech.Manual for $20. I'ld give them a call/pose your question & order their manual. D&D Performance 49676 Martin Dr. Wixom, MI 48393 248.926.6220 They also sell used/new parts for the T-56; again their T-56 Tech.Manual is $20. Hope that gets you the help you need. IMO, if they cant help you/then no one can. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Scottie GNZ(?)....Blue Pills(?)....are you sure those aren't Nitro Pills he's been dropping in his gas tank in hopes of beating the 10's? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike KZ, I dont have your answer-just wanted to pass along some morale support. I know you know this-but I'll say it anyway. You're so close & you've got a pretty incredible Z. The solution to your trans problem appears to be a major delay...remember-it's not major regardless of monitary expense/it's a minor problem & you or we (HybridZ) will figure it out. Its easy to see why our projects can get the best of us sometimes-especially as much time you've spent on yours. Keep your eyes on what's important & treat this like you would any other problem....ask everyone you know of that might be able to contribute to the solution for answers & you'll figure it out! Have you thought of calling a T-56 specialist? Maybe a Chevy Dealer's service manager can help you-they have a tech line they can post questions on-this tech line is a national data base for GM dealers. If the national data base doenst offer any solutions the dealer can then post the question to Detroit HQ directly for an answer from one of their own engineers. Something to think about! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dave, Have you checked into Jacobs Electronics; Chris Jacobs in his first book, "The Doctors Step-By-Step Guide to Optimizing your Ignition" and in the updated version, "Performance Ignition Systems" he talks about off-roaders using relays to cut the voltage from power robbing accessories under WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Chris Jacobs also incorporated that idea into his company & sells his own version of those relays for cutting power to non essential accessories under WOT (I've heard he's sold Jacobs Electronics-dont know if this is true or not)...might check it to that; in his book he claims some eng/trans/vehicles can benefit upto an additional 1000rpms due to removal of that parasitic loss(?). Worth checking into! Let us know what you find. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I had a rebuilt starter for an International P/Up 4x4 392/V8; it would engage-turn the engine & not release...even after the engine fired-I Hate That Sound! You really wont know if it's the starter till after the engine fires up. If the starter disengages-problem solved; if it remains engaged-then you know what you have to do. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/Pete-you're running way too rich; especially if you cant idle any lower than 1200rpms. A magnum street cam should get you in the 850 to 900rpm w/properly tuned carb. You're on the right track & currently in the investigative stage-obtain as much info on jetting/tuning your carb: check out a decently stocked book store for the appropriate carb book w/instructions on your set up & then follow them to the letter....1st step 1st, 2nd step 2nd, 3rd step 3rd/dont skip any steps. I had a "66" Olds Cutlass w/Police Interceptor 330/V8 once that had an idle problem; drove me crazy-did all the tweaking/tuning of the Q-Jet; tune up engine ect,ect then I finally got frustrated & removed the carb only to find part of the base gasket had eroded & separated-it slipped/moved into blocking the incoming air (thus creating a rich running symptom); replaced the gasket & the car idled at 650rpm's. I also had a 70 Cutlass w/320hp 350/V8 that also had an idle problem. The tach indicated the idle would fluctuate from 1200-1500 & I couldnt get it below 1200...incredibly frustrating!!! I consider myself pretty good at turning a wrench & was beginning to doubt my abilities. I even took it to two different turn up shops only to be told, "They couldnt figure it out-they've never had this problem to this extent before (carb was already rebuilt). The cutlass was bone stock-linkages, carb, lines ect...after many hair pulling (stare down sessions-BTW/the car usually won) I finally decided to remove the Cruise Control [Rod]...that's right-this car had the factory Cruise Control Rod-not a the usual little metal ball connecting the carb linkage to the Cruise Control Servo. Turns out this rod linkage was pinching the Q-jet's throttle & causing the throttle to stick. As soon as I removed the rod & retuned my Carb-the car idled/purred like a kitten at 700rpms. Just forwarded all the above info as a reminder-sometimes the ovbious isnt always so obvious; but dont give up/these are mechanical animals & any problem that surfaces does so because of "something". Keep asking questions & make one change at a time-sooner/later you will figure out the problem! And then you can come back here & tell us what the solution was! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 06, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Hey DAW, What are the cc's of the Combustion Chambers in the N47 Maxima L24 (81-84) cylinder heads? And, how much of the piston tops need to be milled(?)...just till their dish is gone(?) & what is the piston comp.height after the dish has been removed? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Is this a new starter or a Rebuilt unit; I've had some rebuilt starter's do some pretty weird things w/the bendix's. Also, what battery are you using-what compression is your engine. Compression, mild CCA battery & a wacky "stock" starter can create some head scratching (hair pulling) sometimes. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)