Kevin Shasteen

Ross, Is that ZZ4 in your Z? If so-what trans are you running & how well does your Z hook, what rear gears & tire sizes are you running? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Okay, with every new post you guys just keep reminding me of more items I need to budget for. I was driving home the other night & again was reminded of how "dim" the stock gauges are! Sure would be nice to "SEE" the gauges at night. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I've never heard of a C200; maybe that is Powertrax's "Name" they've attached to their product which fits into the R200(?). Email them back for clearification of the mysterious C200! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: ...Before you guys go crazy on me, I have nothing on paper for this, only ideas in my head..Feedback please, Mike If only I could be one of those voices in Mike's head; I may be the most ignorant voice in his head...you know-the one that always goes "Huuuh?" but at least the other voices would quickly bring me up to par. Keep the ideas coming Mike-always interesting to hear what you have to say. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I wouldnt even know how to scan a picture if my life depended on it, much less link it to something.....no-dont anyone try to explain to me/I'm mostly compurter illiterate-maybe one of these days my IT-Tech Brother will have a break thru w/me; he still claims I need a "real computer". Kevin, (Yea, Still an Inliner)

Well, do you want a $5 answer or a $100 answer. Mic'g an engine (the crank specifically) is more involved than just putting a mic on the journals. You will also want to know if it is bent & if so-how many thousanth's out of tolerance or w/in tolerance is it. To state the obvious-as you're tearing your engine down you should be looking for scars, gouges, discolored bearings or metal parts. As far as how to mic the journals; you'll need the appropriate outside mic's, inside mic's & slide calipers (I prefer dial slide calipers). You put the 2-3" mic on the journal being measured until its snug...not too lose but not so tight that you scar the journal. Slide it off "GENTLY" & measure w/your calipers. Write down which journal you just measured & its measurement. You'ld then want the measurement for the bearing it was riding in; obtaining that measurement is the same process for the main as it would be for a rod journal; it takes the inside mic's. You torque down the main caps w/the bearings installed (w/out the crank in it) & put your inside mic inside that particular main; set the inside mic (lock it) & after removing it you take your reading. For a rod journal-you'll need a vice for torquing the rod cap down...measurement for it is obtained the same way as the mains were. The difference between the actual journal & the measurement of the main cap or rod's (w/the bearing in it) will be your tolerance. Once you've obtained that tolerance-you can check your measurement w/a performance book which will have "Blueprinting" measurements for the street build & measurements for the race build. If you're not up on how to read calipers/mic's, keep in mind-the machine shop you choose will mic your engine for you. I always like to know what my engine is before dropping it off at the machine shop-that way I know if the machinest is yanking my chain or being up front/honest w/me! Remember-not everyone is looking out for your best interest! Hope this helped/maybe someone else might have something to add! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 02, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

I've never used a Solid Roller nor a Hyd.Roller so I can only go by what I've read. The Solid Rollers do require maintenance checks (Setting Lash) but that is completely dependent on the driver's right foot; a mile engine may never need the resetting of the lash once ite properly been set; totally dependent upon the driver's right foot! Now, if your build is a monster motor that see's the outer limits on a regular basis-then setting the lash will be a weekly/monthly thing. Further, the Solid Roller's allow an engine to usually rev @ 1000rpm's higher than Hyd.Cams. Because of this extra 'umph' the cam offers-their materials are also a little costly; the books I've read say if you're gonna use a Solid Roller not to skimp on parts. Buy the best or the extra pressures placed upon your valvetrain will come to an early demise. In other words; buy hardened valves, titanium keepers, maybe even a rev kit which could imclude a stud girdle for the valves & springs for the lifters/pushrods in the valley area. If you plan on pushing it to the 6500rpm level/make sure things are not going to twist/flex to the point of breaking something. Of course anytime someone consistantly pushes the outer limits you can expect to break something along the way; kind of goes w/the territory. Just my .02c's worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Jon, Your set up I'm bettin is gonna put you somewhere in the 420-450hp range. For my calculations I'm using the 420 RWHP range. We can figure low & hope for higher #'s. Anyway; going w/the 420hp range w/a 15% loss in power to the ground you can expect @ 360 RWHP. Your tire combo's yield a diameter: 1)205/40/17 = 23.4" Tire Diameter 2)205/60/14 = 23.6" Tire Diameter With a vehicle that weighs 2925lbs & 360 RWHP you can expect a 1/4mile trip to get you 11.7 @ 116mph...depending on your tire spin & track conditions. Your rpm's for the 116mph would put you in the neighborhood of: 1)23.4" Tires = 6162rpms 2)23.6" Tires = 6110rpms Depending upon what you feel safe regarding your redline...your speed at a certain rpm should be: 1)23.4" Tires a)5000rpm = 94.11mph b)5500rpm = 103.52mph c)6000rpm = 112.91mph 2)23.6" Tires a)5000rpm = 94.91mph b)5500rpm = 104.40mph c)6000rpm = 113.89mph Hope that helps you w/a basis to go on; or expectations to go from(?) depending upon your persepctive. Hope you can get away w/your high compression-even if you're using the water injection; sounds like fun. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 02, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

I cant speak on the LS1 but I can comment on the LT1; just look at Lingenfelter's book near the back he's advertising his different eng.combo's. Included in that was a 425hp/468ft.lbs LT-1 383. Of course an engine like this requires more than simply throwing the stock parts back to gether w/a higher profile cam; you have to match it w/a stronger crank, rods, his SuperRam intake; he also used the T-56 on this setup & the stock heads w/porting. The cam he chose was a Hyd.Roller w/219*Duration @ .050 & .503/.525 lift on a 112 Lobe Seperation Angle. Lingenfelter's book was published in 96/I'm sure he's done a few more things w/his builds on the LT1 since that time. I'm sure someone else can chime in on the LS1. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I thought they were solid axles also; I new Pete wasnt being sarcastic/but I wasnt going to say anything. Thanks for clearing my mind/I thought Pete new something I didnt...about the Dana 44 axle that is. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Well, I'll try to live up to Sean's expectations...thanks for the vote of confidence & good to see you back on the board-been wondering where you've been; have you resolved your cracked cyl.head situation? This engine in question (the 406) incorporates the Stealth manifold which is a High Rise Dual Plane from Weiand & good upto 6000rpms gauranteed-the undercaptions on that manifold claim upto 6800rpms w/an agressive valve train. Your camshaft you chose is considered by many as the camshaft for bracket racers meaning your peak torque/power is gonna be somewhere in that 4500-6000 range-where you need it as you're tripping the 1/4mile traps. Your dome pistons w/the small chamber heads is definately gonna boost your compression! While your B&M 700 is gonna lay waist to just about any of your competitors, unless they're in the Space shuttle & operate at light speed (but I dont think you have to worry about that). Some say a Stall Converter should be used/but the Z's are so light, a couple people "BLKMGK" particulary, had bud luck w/a stall cvtr in his previous Z & removed it only to discover his car performed better off the line; Just FYI. Your Moosetang friend is talking smack & obviously doesnt understand mechanics or as said earlier-is just plain jealous! Your car is lighter than his, will have more cubes & put out more HP/torque...you've got him on the ropes & he's too ignorant to know when to throw in the towel! Your engine is gonna have plenty of power & idle decently w/your 112 Lobe Separation Angle....112 is better for a street driven engine than 110 or 108 which leans more towards a strip only engine. Dependant upon how heavy of a foot you have your engine should live to the 100k mile range. You've got a healthy H/O engine in the makings; your ride is gonna be anything but slow and you will notice a distinct improvement in power compared to a stock 400. As for actual hp/ET expectations-need more info; car weight, rear gears, tire size, what heads are you actually using/has your engine builder (or have you) determined what your final compression ratio "Static Comp.Ratio" will be? Hope this helps to relieve your "Slow Car Blues"; remember-Enemy Hot Rodders are always playing mind games on each other; regardless if their mind games are intentional or imagined/ignorant...they're still mind games. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 01, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Can you tell if its fuel related or coolant related and maybe even ignition related! Ignition-sounds like the old GM coils; they'ld run fine until they got hot from engine heat-then the engine would spit/sputter till it died. Wouldnt restart till the coil cooled off! Fuel Related Issues: 1) Is your fuel pump new, or the old pump? 2) Are you running a Fuel Pump Regulator? 3) Did you make any changes to the carb-fine tune it in anyway? 4) Are the fuel lines new/used-the old original lines? For coolant related problems: 1) Are you using the Pulley's the engine came with or aftermarker pulleys? 2) Are you running a new/old water pump-what did the impellers look like before installing the water pump. 3) Are you running a new, old or no theremostat at all; what degreee t-stat? 4) What were your tolerances on your piston rings...if you're running race tolerances on the street it will create more friction & the engine will run hotter as a result. 5) What kind of radiator are you running? How many cores? 6) Prior to a cold start-have you pulled your radiator cap/started your engine & watched the coolant-confirmed it is circulating? 7) As per JTR manual-make sure your fan blades are not all the way in the shroud-are you even running a shroud? You want the blades almost all the way in w/about 3/4" of the blade sticking out. 8) If your pulleys are overdriving the water pump then your coolant doesnt have enough time to remove the heat, which isnt a problem at low rpms but at full cruise additional heat builds up causing your temp to soar! 9) 8 is all I can think of-anyone else? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ April 30, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

For anyone considering the AOD trans & want to keep the factory floor mounted shifters but are not sure how to do it; you can find an Auto Trans Shop that specializes in 4spd swaps where 3spds used to be. Those shops are quite familiar w/cutting the shifter gate for a 4spd. The problem is-knowing when you've found a good shop that is hot rodder savvy! Just ask them-use your comment sense; if your "What the heck am I doing here" sensor goes off-then run for the hills; however, if their answer sounds half way senseable-then ask more questions & go from there. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

One of these days you two will actually race-I'ld like to be on the side lines watching that one. Kevin (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea, it appears my blood is in a lower tax bracket also; still interesting thoughts for sure. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Scott (hope its your car that you're referring to about the heart transplant! and not you) I'ld really enjoy having a destroked 400. I get a kick out of reading that article "The 350 Chevy Should've Built" everytime it surfaces. I've been doing a little research ever since that article came up as well as our Octane/Compression -vs- Camshaft thread occurred also. I've discovered quite a lot-mostly just theory & some fact. What I've come up with besides the Rod/Stroke ratio is the Piston Top in Sq.In. to Stroke Ratio & the Int/Exh Valve's to Max.HP ratio. I've completed a handwritten spreadsheet on Fords Factory Displancements & Included some Popular Ford Stroker's using these ratios. Currently working on the Chevy's SBC/BBC displacements & their ratios. From this article alone I've noted: 1)352 cu.in. 2)4.155 x 3.25 Bore/Stroke 3)1.91 Stroke to Rod Ratio 4)13.559 Piston Deck in Sq.In. 5)4.1:1 Piston Deck Sq.In to Stroke Ratio 6)4.87 sq.in Window on Combustion Chamber 7)721cc's Swept Volum per Cylinder 8)145cc's minimum required to run this engine Comparing this engine to my list on Ford's; the Stroke to Rod Ratio equates to Ford's 292 V8 and the Piston Deck Sq.In to Stroke Ratio of this engine equates to Fords 351W & 429.....just Numbers? Maybe-until you begin playing w/their Redline figures-then the tell-tale numbers come to life/fun! How I understand the article in quesiton is this: The combustion in an engine occurs like a grass fire. The grass burns outward away from the point of ignitoin-just like a flame front in a cyl. after the spark plug fires. From what I've read "High Perf.Auto Fuels & Fluids" at WOT, heat transfer amounts to @ 15% of fuels thermal energy. The heat transfer is maximized at perfect air-fuel ratio (stoichiometric) and decreases when richened (too much fuel or too little air). In the absence of Leaded Fuels-This has lead to two main stay mind sets of thinking regarding the maximizing the performance of an engine 1) To add a compressor (Supercharger/Turbo) 2) To search for a fuel w/a higher Specific Energy or "SE". SE is a rating which indicates a fuels ability on how much heat energy a given amount of fuel can deliever for a given amount of air being drawn into the engine. (In the absence of Leaded Fuels-this seams to have been the Mfg's choices a)Turbo/Supercharging for Perf.Cars and/or b)Different fuel SE's for the lessor perf.eng. Why is the SE important-well, the fuels performance is closely related to the release of energy during the combustion process. This is affected by the eng's reactants & its products of combustion; and by heat transfer in the cyl.walls. Back to Compression issue; How do we hot rodders get the most "simple" power from an engine-by dumping as much "Cooler Air" into our engines as possible. This brings in more colder air which gives a more "Dense" air fuel ratio. The result of an A.I.R system is identical to the result of a higher comp.engine during the burning after combustion-but for different reasons. As the spark is ignited-a higher compression allows the air-fuel mixture to give off more energy & results in better burning; in other words-that Grass Fire burns quicker & more efficiently instead of slower. The lower comp.ratio will raise the fuel requirements at idle because there is more clearance volume in the combustion chamber which dilutes the intake charge-thus, fuel is still burning longer as the piston descends'lower comp.ratio's raise the exh.temperatures and increase stress on the cooling system. Now back to the article in question: the longer rod allows for the piston to "Hang" around the TDC area for a longer time-this is called "Dwell". This increased "Dwell" time holds the maximum comp.ratio in the higher spectrum of its maximum comp.ratio for a longer perior of time-thus allowing for a quicker/more efficient combustion. As this article proved-w/a longer rod you can also increase the comp.ratio w/out fear of detonation. As for me-well my committee is still out on their fact finding mission; but the facts tend to speak for themselves. All the books I've read about Stroke/Rod Length Ratio's indicate that it is a big debate between big name engine builders. What I'm not sure about and this may be pure paranoia: 1) The smaller piston skirts of the custom piston-will this reduce engine durability due to the piston wobbling in the cyl; the purpose for a longer/wider piston skirt is to keep the piston as square in the bore as possible. Other than that-I like the idea of running an engine w/11.1:1 comp.ration on 87 Ocatane! Sorry for the long post-just some interesting facts. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Fine Tuning is an excellant place to begin. Its where most hot rodders fall short. They know everything about eng/trans combo's but they forget the ignition & timing. Its usually pretty inexpensive to tinker w/the ignition & a Z engine can really be awakened if you use the correct parts. Go to Barnes & Nobles & locate and buy 1 of or all three of these books. 1) "How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Frank Honsowetz; go to Barnes & Nobles & order it (this one may be out of print but check on the internet thru Zsites & clubs; some Zclubs still advertise it & may have some copies floating around). 2) "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe & Published by Fisher Books w/a 1998 Copywrite & is still available. 3) "How to Hotrod & Race your Datsun" (this one is an oldy but still a goody) & written by Steve Smith Autosports w/an 1984 Copywrite & Published by Steve Smith Autosports Publications Each book has its own area of expertise-the second book is probably the best one for the ignition. The 3rd book has a 7 page chapter on which ignition combo's work best but as stated earlier is an older book. Still all three are worth buying just for the knowledge factor of what they know & 'what we dont know' till you read it of course. I never pursued the 1st book-since it was out of pring as I made the choice to only invest in a V8; therefore my heart wasnt in it to modify my inliner 6. But I do have the "How to Rebuild" book which gives a 1800-255-1514 number for ordering the "How to Modify" book. Dont discount the importance of understanding the ignition system of any engine! The ignition system is like the airflow of a cylinder head; if you know what you're doing with either you can find untapped horsepower just waiting to be tapped. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ April 30, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Only 'the Mic' knows(?); Isnt 'the Mic' a comic book hero? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

We reached the upper 80's last week in the Dallas area; I usually go w/out A/C in the late Spring-Early Summer days also, but when it hit the upper 80's I had to turn on the A/C.....Ooooooo Yea; that 'felt' so much better! Its certainly nice for the A/C to work in the Z. Dont know if it'll still feel cold when temp's reach the 110's*F(?). Yes, Felt is a word; at least it is in N.Texas. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

FWIW: Summit's latest edition has a tech article on installing the Richamond 6spd in the early musclecars. Also just before the engine advertisement section of that same edition they include a list of all 4spd, 5spd & 6spd gear ratio's (American Made Tranny's that is). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just reading the archives & found this one. FWIW: I worked in a shop that rebuild hydraulic tools; regarding the guns-the IR line up requried rebuilding far fewer times than a conventional gun....actually if you want a ratio; I'ld probably build about 50.1:1 the IR being the "1". IR has a hammer inside a cage-as the hammer swings & hits/the cage swings around from momentum & hits the hammer giving it more torque. Whenever I did have to rebuild an IR it wasnt because the hammer/cage unit was worn out but because the tech never oiled his gun & the air motor veins were burnt up. Once we put new veins in & reassemble-it was as good as new! IR-the old style IR is by far the best design (I say old style as IR now builds a conventional style gun to compete w/the inferior guns). So everytime you use your gun-be sure & drop a few drops of oil in it before you use it & drop a few drops of oil in it after you use it; then run it for a quick second to circulate the oil before putting it to rest. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

$35....AND WE HAVE A WINNER! Works for me! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: BTW, I've never heard anything bad said about the 283. The only thing I know of that might be considered bad & if I remember correctly is also the reason GM redesigned the crank in their SBC was due to Cracked Crankshafts from high rev's on the pre-69 SBC's(?) due to their smaller main journal diameter; that's the only reason I was suprised about you doing a 283-I fully understand the lessor torque, ext, ect and yea-that would be more curtailed to a Z than a monster SBC regarding street manners. Dont get me wrong-I'm not trying to talk you out of it as the only article I have in any of my books about a 283/327 smaller journal engines concerns Jack Lufkin pushing the 200mph barrier at the salt flats in 62 in his convertible corvette while averaging 193 mph...even still-his crank was a stroker crank specially built & a forged unit and his final cubic in's reached 374.97 to fall under the 375 class limitations. My only concern is to spend all that time/money on an engine only to have the crank snap one day after a hard run at the 1/4 mile track or while you were trying to lay the smack down on some street chump; that'ld be a pitty. If your worried about too much torque from a 350 you dont have to build a monster-you could build a healthy mild 350. If you do go for the 283-I wish you all the best...just be leary about the smaller crank journal & dont over rev it/know your limitations is all I'm saying. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ April 27, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Thanks Eric for the pictures; I want the brakes on the first page that pops up-definately enjoyed the pic's of that car's set up. But, 27k & no A/C(?); this North Tex boy needs A/C for our already hear Hot Summer Days! Really tho-nice car/looks like a Pete Paraska car; nice enough to eat off of. Kevin, Yea,Still an Inliner)

Brad, Not sure what you have in the way of commerce there in Ashevill; as far as engine hoist & stands go-look for a "Harbor Freight" a "Northern Hydraulic" or go to your nearest "Sams". Usually the Harbor Freight & Northern Hydraulics will have a "Lowest Price Gaurantees" & you can play each one against the other for a lowest price gaurantee! Not sure but I think all Northern Hydraulic stores now go by "Northern". Dont get to cheap of an engine stand-I'ver heard stories about the cheap one's colapsing under the weight...I'ld opt for the slightly more expensive engine stand/as for the hoist-they're usually pretty close in capacity unless you're pulling Cummins & Catapillar engines One consideration on the hoist; make sure you get one w/adjustable length legs. Some times on my hoist when I have to extend picker part of the hoist-the rear wheels at the base will begin to lift....luckily my legs on my hoist extend & the balance is restored: just FYI. Kevin, Yea,Still an Inliner) [ April 27, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]