Kevin Shasteen

I had the carpet up when I did my Sterio/Speakers...didnt really follow the wiring so I dont know if the rear hatch wiring goes from the quarters to the rear hatch or if the rear hatch gets its power from the same source as the Interior Light. However, if you are not getting power to the rear hatch there is a Rear Wdw.Defogger Relay in the passenger side kick panel just forward & above the fuse panel; its next to a couple other relays. If you have a Datsun Service Manual for your car-go to it as there is a section on how to test the Defogger & repair the rear grid if needed. My rear wdw.defogger is also inop/not getting power to it(!) & it is not on the top of my list either/yet, we (N.Texas) have been getting a lot of rain & it is a safety problem not always being able to see "clearly" out the rear window! Might have to push it futher up the top of the list after all. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm considering the 377 as well for the toque probabilities but also its revability....as if I'll ever actually get to begin my swap(?)! The best of Hotrod Magazine; Volume 9 "How to Build Big Chevy Small Blocks" had a 20page 4part article(s) on the "Budget 377" build. They attempted to keep cost under the $5000 range. Their dyno ran just missed the 600hp mark. They used Edelbrock Victor Jr.cyl.heads which gave 212cc intake runners & 70cc combustion chambers; after porting (Personal note: They're only pushing 212cc's on their intake side. I've mentioned in other HybridZ Threads that "too large" flowying cyl.heads hurt airflow. This article has an engine rev'g to 7k rpm's & chose a smaller cyl.head. Granted they chose a huge carb/intake but it matches their purpose & camshaft choice). Their choice of cam was a custom Roller Rocker from Isky: 264/272 @ .050 w/108 lobe seperation angle. Chose 1.65:1 rockers on the Intake & 1.5:1 Rockers on the Exhaust W/Titanium locks for the valve springs. They intended this engine for GT Racing & wanted hp on the high end. Intake choice was an Edelbrock Victor Jr. They ran three test on the dyno & the best Dyno run was using a 2"TD spacer & a Barry Grant 850 Holley.....589HP @ 6500rpm's & 516ft.lbs @ 5400rpm's. They ran the engine on the dyno all the way up to 7000rpm's where it produced 576hp/432ft.lbs. BTW: this book also outlines other Big Inch SBC builds like the 383, 406, 408, 427 & 454 SBC builds. Found the magazine at Barnes & Nobles...again it was Volume 9 of: "The Best of Hotrod Magazine/Technical Library" Published by "CARTECH" & I found it in the automotive section of Barnes & Nobles. If they dont have it they can order it! Great Info! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 03, 2001).]

Does anyone know what happened to Spence & his project. I was really looking forward to his project being somewhat completed! I'm sure no one was more anxious than Spence! Spence...oh, S-p-e-n-c-e; where are you? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike, I dont have any Front Clip swapping experience, but, I have been thinking about how to secure my hood when closing it w/out using the factory set up after putting a SBC in it. I've come up w/two ideas; use Olds's W-25 hood pins. Year One's "Olds" catalogue has them as a set for $49; the box'd retainers they anchor in (which is bolted to the core support) for $59 a pair or you can buy the entire Hood Pins, Plates/Bracket Kit for $99.00. I'm not talking about the Generic Hood Pin set either/I mean the actual Factory Hood Pin set Where the Hood Pin stays on the Hood & clamps down to the retainers on the core support/of course the pins would be in the back instead of the front. The other option I considered was a mock up similar to the late 50's early 60's Ferrari GTO's...saw them on Speedvision the other day & it looked pretty secure/if it works for Ferrari then it would probably work for any other car. I dont know where you'ld go for pictures other than a Ferrari resource/restoration guide...Sure the Internet probably has plenty of info; or Barnes & Nobles should have some books on the Ferrari's. I dont know what a DZUES fastener is so maybe we are talking about the same thing. Just FWY & my .02c's worth. Kevin, (Yes, Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 03, 2001).]

Well, my car is a 78 so I didnt swap anything other than old bushings for new bushings. I had no problems lining things up after the new bushings were installed; some of the bushings were tight/just started a few threads on each bolt prior to tightening everything. I did put the mustache bar on first; then jacked the floorjack/with diff. up slowly till the bolt holes from the mustache bar slid in. Then the lower mounts only needed to have their bolts started; started them w/my fingers first-then snug'd them w/air gun. I dont remember having to "Force" them to line up(?). Dont have a clue as to why your's are not lining up(?); have you tried prying them in.....gently...just to see what might happen? Obviously-you dont want to pry beyond the point of diminishing returns (something breaks or bends). Anyway-that was my senquence of events;not sure it helped/but there it is anyway. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) PS: After looking at your picture again...Correct me it I'm wrong...but you're not just having an "Alignment of Parts Problem (East & West) but you are coming up short (North & South) Alignment Problems(?): yes/no? Are Control Arms different from the earlier "Z" to the Newer Z's? If you're changing from R180 to a R200-do you also need to change lower control arms/I know JTR doesnt mention this...but something is different & throwing your Geometry off. Definately post more pictures as this is too odd to figure out from just one picture/You also Sectioned your struts, didnt you: still that shouldnt effect your control arm Geometry? Too weird/definately a mystery! [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 03, 2001).]

Also, '78' is about the time the "Metric" 350's began popping up. If the car is stock it may have one of those trans in it. The metric trans was only a 3spd auto but had a lock up torque converter in it....GM's intro in to the Overdrive arena; even tho it was not a true overdrive/the lock up converter acted like another gear-thus it had overdrive qualities. Anyway; if its a Metric 350....Run for the hills/not worth messin with! You'ld be better off w/a 200trans-at least its a true overdrive & can be built to a Hi.Perf. capabilities; but then if you're going to that extreme & are running a SBC-then you should at least go for the 700trans-capable of handling more torque. Yes, as said previous-the mid 70's to late 70's were "Smog" engines as GM.Ford,Chrysler were all going thru a metamorphosis in an attempt to obtain "Gas Mileage" thru "lack of power' which means thin casting cyl.heads/blocks & low.perf. everything. You can use the block & crank but you're gonna have to put some bucks in it; by the time your done you could've bought a GM crate engine & obtained real power & durable performance. FWIW! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Well FWIW: since I'm still an Inliner & have not begun that part of my transformation yet I'm not really sure what clearance there is at the pump as I've not really investigated it. However, If you're looking for different thicknesses of rubber mat to experiment with check out your local Tractor Supply Stores; they'll usually have up to 1" thick rubber mats. I bought a huge one 3'x4'x1" & have cut pieces out of it w/a jigsaw for insulating other projects as needed. Also if you dont need puzzle pieces & only need "eylet/donuts" type rubber pieces for mounting; check out your local small engine shops-they use different size/style eyelet rubber bushings for absorbing the vibrations of generators & pumps...ect. Again...my .02c's worth. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Just remember there were a lot of Rocket's that Rocket Scientist tested which "Fell short of Successful" before they got it right. Yea; maybe your test could've been a little more "laboratorily" controlled; but just be glad you 'learned' something w/out anything bad happening....like the fuel from the carb spiling onto the engine while running & catching fire/thankfully you did take safety measures. Live & Learn so that you can Live & Learn another day. Just another fine example that Safety First should be everyone's motto. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Mike, Take lots of pictures; not only will we want to see the car in progressive steps but you will also appreciate a "Picture Album" of the car from beginning to end (Hah! as if there ever is an end). Pete; sounds like your paint job is gonna be nice! Expensive/but nice; that'll be the difference between a paint job that last five years before fading/cracking as opposed to a paint job that lasts forever (20years). Mike/dont kill yourself-take your time & get as much rest as possible between stages. What good is a finished car if your back hurts so bad you cant ride in it(?); guess you could always install a Semi-Tractor Truck bucket seat w/air ride! Those are nice-but then you'ld have to cut a whole in the roof for the extension of the seat...might loose the sleeper approach w/that add-on...........take it easy & dont over extend yourself! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: ...What I'd really like is a T-56 with a Ferarri inspired paddle/auto shift function; and you'd have the "ultimate" 6 speed automatic. I can dream, huh? Hey Pete, You could have that, and much more/all you have to do is complete an "Updated Business Plan" on a 5year note & submit it to your wife! That should get you the extra dough & only 5 more years added; or hey/a double mortgage but let your wife be the bank; eventually she might end up owning anything that is valuable to you...but hey/you'ld have one bad to the bone Z! Really now; what's a few more years? Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

I've got a Dual Deck; email w/your process of how to spread the joy! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Very, very interesting....Hhhmmm(?). Could it be that we are being taken over by an 'alien' bug of some sort. Mindlessly driving our Z's around minding our own business; then the Jap/Engineered dormant Alien Dust begins slowly recirculating our vents as the NON-Zink dipped boddies & paint dust slowly oxidize & infiltrate our respiratory systems while heading straight into our nervous system till our DNA is overthrown and controlled by the Alien DNA!!! We are then merely diminished to nothing but a Host controlled by this Alien DNA/Parasite & comanded to Restore the living organisms outer shell we call a "Z" as protection while our search for a V8 is indicative of the Alien DNA's prime directive for evasion as a Defensive/Maneuver for survival from other Hostile Aliens...., Okay, okay...guess I watch to much of the Sci-Fi channel also; but it does make for a good argument! Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Not totally Controlled by Alien DNA" Inliner)

Ole Pete.......that show-off; he's always gotta one up us. I'm gonna catch you yet Pete! Only 10 more years to go & I've got you! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) PS: Pete; Just kidding of course about the show-off thing.

I'ld also follow Pete's advice. If you're not confident of doing it yourself: any major city has Novelty Clock Shops where they sell clocks w/simple quarts in them or they can install quarts mechanisms in anything you bring them. Check the local malls; sometimes you'll find the Novelty Clock Shops there! Kevin, (Yes,Stil an Inliner)

I love that "Hope this is Obvious" as if the obvious isnt always obvious(?) until someone points out to us how "Obvious" it is that we overlooked the "Obvious". Never, pulled the axles off from the diff.side on a Z; however, anytime metal is tight that should slide but doesnt-try some liquid wrench for a week. Everytime you get up in the morning....go spray some liquid wrench on it. Then when you come home after work at the end of the day....go spray some more on; hopefully at the end of the week when you're ready to attempt the pulling/leveraging;-the silly axles will slide out! If not keep squirting the liquid wrench till you break thru; sounds like your axle is sticking from old age weathering of road grime/oil residue/expansion-contraction of getting hot then cold. I had a driveshaft do that once on an Olds 98 behind a 455 w/200k miles on it; probably never been off. I couldnt get it off no matter what I did. Ended up pulling the driveshaft w/the eng & trans(?); that was definately interesting! Only after I got it out could I apply the proper leverage myself to disconnect the driveshaft from the trans! Hope that offers a little encouragement! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

That's why I ordered mine overnight; didnt care about the extra cost. All I could think about was the fun I had in my Z back in my college days & the torque and dependability of an american V8. Read the Tweeks catalogue at work one day during a "mind melt" between calls & saw the JTR manual advertised....had to have it! When it came in "AT WORK" the next day I read it all day long....at my desk/only worked when the phone rang; Not a productive day-as an employee but I was absorbing every JTR detail that my P-brain could handle! I've since read the manual probably a couple dozen times & have most of it memorized! Now all I need is an Alluminum V8, Allum.Intake, Allum.Wtr.Pmp, All.Heads, T-56...., Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Very Educational "Gentlemen" & I use that term loosely....so dont get offended to easily. Scottie; why did the TPS & O2's flatline; any insight/thoughts? BTW: We, (& I think I speak for the rest of us) are awaiting the next printouts to be discussed! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Complaining about getting under the 3.0 is like the days before Microwaves. Prior to microwaves we all had to wait for wifey or Mom to make our meals; usually 2-3hours later it was time to eat. Now w/the micowaves we all complain if dinner isnt ready w/in 10 minutes. Oh, sorry for the unfair comparison/forgot there are some here that were born of the Post-Microwave erra....anyway/you get the jest! Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Above 3.0" Inliner) PS: Just noticed my post hit "454"....is that an Omen; a hidden command from the HybridZ Gods commanding me to go for a BBC conversion instead of SBC? I'll have to start a commune of HP Junkies now & chant to all V8's passing by till the answer is given! [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 27, 2001).]

I want one of those on my bookshelf; do you sell that as Art? Looks exspensive/very sweet! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: Was'nt the 96 GT just a 2 cam modular? I didn't see references in the above post to a 4 cam cobra motor. A 2 cam motor and trans shouldn't cost that much. 4 cammer, sure you bet. Lone Lone, You read my mind; I too was thinking about the 4cammer Cobra; as wide as it is(?); still think about the mileage it would do in a Z w/performance to boot! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Yea-too cool! (Addict Here!) Scottie, Question; what is the knock sensor sensing, doesnt this also tell the puter to retard timing? When you say "rich" do you know what a normal patter for O2's should look like from idle thru a full 1/4mile run; do you have a base pattern from someone else's datalogger...& I know you cant compare apples to oranges-but you have to have a base to compare/what is good-bad? Where can anyone go to for Dyno printouts of a GN engine? I've always been curious as to the engines peak HP/Torque points. Hey if you're already well in to 3rd/5100 rpm's w/in a couple sec's...you definatley need different gears as I can see how you run out of cam by the end of the 1/4 & have to shift into o-drive.....man/what a bummer! However; You are definately booking! Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Non-Datalogger/Non-Turbo" Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 27, 2001).]

Jon, That is a drivability problem & could be just about anything since the car is not original...only you know its set up best. It could be anything from improper ignition timing to spark plugs/plug wires, coil, carb choke, fuel pump, to a relay that acts up under the stress of the cold(?). Give more details; when it is above 50F after it starts does it spit/sputter or does it ever backfire? When it is below 50F as you turn the engine over is it a slow turn or does the engine turn over fast/normal. If its a fast & even turn it means you have good compression usually & a strong starter. The three things that keeps an internal combustion eng.from running is the lack of: 1) Air 2) Fuel 3) Electricity (Ignition) or a combination of the two/three. Your best bet is to obtain a Service Manual & follow the flowchart. I would first confirm your ignitions spark is strong. Confirm the choke mechanism is functioning correctly, & confirm your ignition timing is set properly. I'm no carb specialist but I do have a 260 service manual. If you are having carb prob's then the flow chart for checking the carb is: Trouble Diagnosis: 1)Eng.Does not start a)Overflow b)No fuel feed to the engine c)Improper Idling Adjustment d)Malfunction of suction piston a)Overflow * Float Leaking...Replace Carb Assembly * Dirty Needle valve Seat...Clean Valve Seat * Loose Needle Valve...Retighten * Scratches/Worn Needle Vlv.Seat...Refit/Rpl * Fuel Pump Drawing in Air...Repair Pump b)Nor Fuel Fed to the Engine * Check Pump for proper operation * Check Fuel Lines * Check Needle Valve c)Improper Idling Adjustment * Readjust appropiriately according to spec's d)Malfunction of Suction Piston * Sticky due to deformation...Rpl Carb Assem. * Bent Jet Needle...Rpl Carb Assem. * Bent Plunger Rod...Rplace As I said earlier...it could be just about anything/hope some of this helped! Kevin, (Yes, Still an Inliner)

Your definately set up for racing & not for street. If all you're wanting is something to run at the strip then it sounds pretty rock solid w/M22 & the beefier rear end-(that all of wish we had). I'm originally a 70 442 enthusiast so I kind of liked the hood/reminded me of the W-25 hood from Olds; still wish it were a little more "Low-Profile" & it would be perfect for the street as a sleeper as for now-the hood kind of gives you away/no sneaking up on poor unsuspecting victims! I liked the steering wheel as it reminded me of the Olds "Sport Steering Wheels" & was almost an identical match....liked that touch. Interior did look extremely clean/nice purchase! What are the tire sizes; I know your site says 15's on the rims but what are the tire size dimensions? And yes/please please please obtain detailed pic's of the differential & axles! Welcome to the site! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 27, 2001).]

Ron/Jim, Thanks for the info; glad I asked! Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Sleeping at 4am" Inliner)

Be honest Ron...your watching Opra/Jerry Springer episodes that you recorded the day before(?)! Why were you up at 4am you Zombie! Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Sleeping Soundly at 4am" Inliner)