Kevin Shasteen

I agree; Welding doesnt take a Rocket Scientist....but it does take SKILL! I dont have that skill nor the patience to fine-hone it. I've tried welding before & my weld joints look like something the Medical Profession would attempt to amputate! I dont mind paying a little more when it comes to a pro-welder whose cuts/welds I know will not compromise the strength of whatever part they are welding. JMHO. Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Not Pro-Welding" Inliner)

1) If it aint broke dont fix it! 2) You're there/got it torn down: why not 3) You dont want to ever have to go thru that again 4) The bearings were probably done by the previous owner as easily as those pins came out! 5) Eh....there isnt a "5". I replaced all my bshngs & had to use heat/my car had 160k on it & the rear pins had never been replaced. I had to use a lot of heat on it & luckily didnt fry the probably little remaining grease in the sutb axle/bearing housing. That was about 15k miles ago & no noise yet (Knock Knock on wood). You're the only one that can really decide if you want to go thru the trouble again of tear down if a rear stub/axle brng begins making noise. If I had to do it all over again I probably would have gone thru my stub axles; my car is my daily driver so I had to do mine ASAP & ran out of time as I also did my brakes/Struts at the same time. Weigh the pro's & the con's then make your decision. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

I thought I was the only one that didnt like plasticgage(?)! I never use that stuff; Hate it, Hate it, Hate it! Even in my younger days on my first engine I didnt bother w/it. I also prefer inner/outer mic's. I've used rod's in the past that were a little tight but acceptable as the crank did turn by hand. Since then I've decided always to pay the expence of having the rod's resized; cheap insurance down the road but that & balancing an engine really make a difference. After my last rebuild on my Olds engine (Balanced, Ported & Align bored); yea it was a little more expensive than usual...but the engine runs so much smoother. You can honestly tell the engine is happier! BTW: In eng.buidling 101, if the rod's are not numbered....always take a quality steel/pointed punch & mark both the rods & the rod caps where they meet; mark 1 dot for #1piston, 2 dots for #2 piston or buy a set of numbered punches. The marking will not only insure installation of the piston facing correctly but also insure you get the rod cap on the same position as it was removed. Mark them before you pull them & always mark them in the same order/location so reassembly will be simplified. Also; if you're going to have your crank turned...make sure the machinest knows to leave a small inward radius ground into the inside of the crank weight/shoulder where it meets the main (not sure what the exact term is) but that radius is where oil will ride giving lubrication to the face of the rod. Many machinest when they grind a crank will grind that radius away which as a result will hurt lubrication of the rod at high rpms and may lead to oil starvation.....a little at a time. Just my .02c's worth. Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Hate Plasticgage" Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 26, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: ...pay version will actually data log...B] What do you mean "Pay Version"? Kevin, (Yes,Still an "ignorant" Inliner)

Hey Pete; I somehow thought you were an engineer from some of your posts. Richard did ring it home w/the cancelling common denominator; I even illuded to the "Cancelling Commen Denominator" in my story with the 33,000 lbs.ft cancelling out by the "2 x pi" but missed it in the actual formula. My hurdle I was unable to get thru was a mental block as I kept picturing RPM as a progressive parameter (as if I was looking at my tach) instead of a particualr rpm within that formula; it didnt hit me what I was doing till Richard hit me over the head w/the 2x4; then it was clear as a bell! I guess we owe it to Megashaft for not letting us railroad him into believing we thought we knew what we were talking about. Anyway, still made for a very intersting thread which I enjoyed. Kevin, (Yes,Still "Not an Engineer" but Definately an Inliner)

Its always cool when My lightbulb comes on as my elevator reaches the top & I hear that "DING-DING"; Yes, We have a winner! Thanks Megashaft/Richard & Pete for keeping us in the right track...this foryum is always an education! I know I didnt creat the universe; so that puts me somewhere in 2nd place to last place in the Bread Line. Kevin, (Yes,Still a Inliner)

Thanks for the Info Danno. Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Non-TPI/LT1" Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 26, 2001).]

Ok guys; I'm no engineer but I'm still confused as to why we are thinking that HP/Tq must cross on the dyno at 5252. The formula HP = RPM x Torque/5252 doesnt say (at least not to me) it doesnt say: 500hp = 500lbs.ft at 5252rpms. The "/" (forward slash mark) is not an "Equal" sign rather it is am instruction for us to "Divide". As I understand it: the "RPM" part of the equation represents "RPM" not the "5252". The "5252" represents "lbs.ft torque of 1torque"...so maybe the hp/torqe will cross...but at 1hp/1torque at the very beginning/not at the assumed 5252rpm's. Still the RPM is not determined by the "5252" of the equation. The RPM is a separate Perameter of the equation. So IMHO I dont see where the equation states that HP/Torque must cross at 5252rpms's(?). ****Okay, all best are off**** I was looking at some SBC & SBF dyno runs while typing this post; their HP/Torque #'s were crossing a tad passed the 5252rpm usually at 5300 or 5400rpm's/so am I rambling now(?). Am I rambling now(?). Am I rambling now.....does that mean I'm confused(?); do we have any engineers in the house? If so-please step forward & show yourself worthy! Kevin, (Yes,Still "Not an Engineer" but Still an Inliner) PS: Just left the upper half of this post in so everyone will realize I'm not anal that when my "Lightbulb" goes off I have no problem admitting that it wasnt previously "On" given the discussion at the time. I enjoy a good discussion/hammer away till its meaning is fully understood! Enjoyed this post as all posts on this site!! [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 26, 2001).]

Okay; those of you who graduated from the John Wayne School of Hard Knocks/LT1-TPI 101 class.....I'm glad this came up as I too have been contemplating using the exact engine & bought a book that explains how to diagnose problems w/this set up as they arise. However, the book gives failure codes and diagnostic flow charts for the engine as it sits in it's original box (the F-body/Y-Body) & not a Hybrid skin. My question to the forum is this: There are three categories that the book states any complaint falls into: 1) Steady "Service Engine Soon" light on 2) Driveablity problems 3) Eng.Cranks but wont Start I'm more concerned w/the 1st problem; once you've transplanted the eng/trans when there is a failure that concers the Serv.Eng.Soon light the "Z" light isng going to be hooked to the computer....? How do you diagnose this? Do you just test each component or do you test each pin on the ECM till you find the prob/what gadgets are out there that are most efficient at pulling codes from the ECM(?). Am I making a mountain out of a mole-hill? Not usually an EFI guy but seriously liking the TPI-LT1! Thanks for any input. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Fuel mileage not only depends on the size of the motor....but more importantly/the size-weight of your foot! The reason I chose the 280Z is because I owned one in college & enjoyed how the Z hugged the road while driving it; when I happened along the JTR manual (Didnt own a Z at that time) is when I chose to locate & buy my current Z. I could only imagine the fun/enjoyment of driving a Z w/doubled the performance & dependability of the SBC....no more Inline6 mechanical failure/Nissan Overcharges at the parts counter! The dependability of an american V8 (Ford or Chevy) w/the sleek design/handling of a Z is what pushed me in this direction. I havent begun my swap but I have done the entire suspension/steering. As my budget allows I will do the V8. If your heart is not in it/then dont do it! Its not like changing spark plugs. It's gonna take more than just a weekend to do. But if you want a car that cant be touched on the street by the other ricer's & most any other street rods then go for it! But be steadfast....it takes a lot of planning & dont rush into it. Definately go w/the engine & definately use an OD trans (Standard or Auto). If you use a 3spd Auto.....At 65mph w/the stock 3.5 rear, 190/70/14's at 1.1:1 ratio you'll be at 3123rpm's. With a .7overdrive 700r4 trans that same 65mph's will put you at only "2208" rpm's....what a huge difference an overdrive will make & less wear-n-tear on the engine. I dont know about you but my factory stock 4spd puts me at 3400rpm's at 70mph & in the Texas Summers my floorboard really heats up; my A/C works but does nothing for the bottom of my foot......GET AN O'DRIVE TRANS/You'll definately appreciate it! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 25, 2001).]

Okay; its raining, windy & I have no garage/nor a budget to begin my project....so I'm gonna attempt to explain the Infamous "5252" w/a story. For starters the "5252" is not a representation of a tangit of "Torque" or "HP" so the assumption that they should cross on a dyno is incorrect. I think we should obtain this info straight from the horspower's mouth....Mr. Watt himself. Scottie: prepare the Timemachine. Adjust the gauges for a trip back in time! (Cue the dry ice effect); set the timers for only a few minutes w/Mr. Watt & ENERGIZE! Ooooh-Aaaah! Where is that weird sound coming from? Why is my visual blurred? Where is that weird "Dreamy" music coming from? Uh-oh, my world....its disappearing/turning like into a vortex/wormhole of some sort...its..pulling...me...in/cant///resist it. I'm spinning out of control; Heeelllppp mmmeeee I've fallen & cant get up! Oh-hey; we're here now. I'm looking around & seem to be at a minor's camp. A lot of strange burly minor guys are looking at me (scary); guess I should've changed from my PJ's prior to making the trip! There he is...Mr. Watt; Yea-you....Mr.Watt could I speak to you, please; thanks. I know Mr.Watt that you are busy-so am I as I only have a few minutes as I've crossed the space-time coninuem to ask you about your Steam Engine & how you came to the HP/Torque formulas. Dont look at me like I'm crazy....these PJ's are in "style" back in my time. Would it help if I told you that your formula for HP/Torque have been labeled by the "Systeme International des Units" (S.I.) as a standard for HP! Yea, thought that would get your attention. Now; please explain how you came about your formulas & dont tell me it came to you after an apple fell from a tree-that one's been done already. Mr. Watt says he needed something to rpl the draft horses at the mining camps; it was their job to pump water out & their procedure was tedeous & inefficient. So he developed his steam engine to do the job. He noticed that the, now repl.horses, were plodding in a circular path, pullin at a right angle on the end of a 12ft. lever attached to a capstan; the capstan was geared to operate a pump. Watt says he estimated the horse pulled w/a force of 180 pounds. The circle had a circumference of 2 x 'pi' x 'radius of 12ft' = 75.398224 feet. The horse could make 144 trips around the circle in an hour or 2.4 trips a minute, for a speed of 180.95573 or about 181 feet per minute. Mr. Watt further explains that he converted the horse's ability into measurable leverage (what we call torque), Watt then says he multiplied 180 pounds time 181ft. obtaining 32,580 lbs.ft. per minute. He rounded that to 33,000 lbs.ft per minute, or 550 lbs.ft per second, which became the norm for 1.0 hp. Ahhh, thanks for the explaination Mr. Watt. However, I have just one question. WHY DIDNT YOU MULTIPLY 'FT x LBS' INSTEAD OF 'LBS x FT' as it would've been much easier in my time to say "Ft.Lbs" instead of having to say the laborious "Lbs-Ft"? Mr. Watt says....oh-no; the visual is getting blurred again; there's that funky music. Here comes the vortex/wormhole..sucking me back. Scottie-I need more power! What do you mean more power will fly her apart? Fly her apart then-I NEED MORE POWER! Oh; too late. We're back. Now that we know where 1.0 hp came from-we need to apply it to modern day engines. The horse walking in that 12' circle applied force at the output of the lever , that force was applied to the capstan at the center of the capstan; a modern day engine does just the opposite. It delivers force at the ouput end of the crankshaft. Envision a 1.0ft lever at a right angle to the crank; as that crank rotates, the free end of the lever will follow a circle w/a radius fo 1.0ft. Watt's definition of hp involved a force in pounds, applied over a distance in feet, for a time of 1.0 minute; which is the circumference of a circle w/a 1.0ft radius multiplied by crank rpm's. The circumference is 'pi' x 2 x 1ft; or simply 2 x 'pi' = 6.2831853 feet. So the total distance the free end of the lever will go in 1.0 minute is 6.2831853 x rpm. The product of that calculation can be multiplied by the known torque of the engine to find the total pounds-ft of torque per minute. The result can then be divided by Watt's pounds-ft per minute for 1.0 hp (33,000) to find the engines hp. That works out to be the following formula: Horsepower = 6.2831853 x RPM x Torque/33,000 Of course as we mathmaticians will recall; always get the lowest common denominator; so we now have to divide both the upper/lower by 2 x 'pi' and the formula now comes to: Horsepower = RPM x Torque/5252 Tada! Told you we would discover the infamous "5252". It is nothing more than a lowered common denominator of the 33,000 lbs.ft per minute Mr. Watt's horses worked. BTW: it you know HP but not torque you can also use the formula: Torque = 5252x HP/RPM Sorry if I rambled; slow day here in N.Tx. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Please clearify; but if you put "Side Vents" in front of the front wheel wells.....wouldnt they be considered "Scoops" and not "Vents" as the air would be going in (Intake) as opposed to exiting (Exhuast/Venting)? Just Curious? Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Speaker: ....Competition Cams Xtreme Energy camshaft 224/230 @ .050, 268/280 adv., .502"/.506" lift, 110degree lobe sep Sorry; your correct XE/XH-whatever it takes! I thought I read somewhere on this thread that he was looking for a Hyd.Roller; However, it turns out it wasnt his comment but someone else's suggestion to go w/a Hyd/Mechanical Roller. The XE268H-10 does only have .477/.480 lift. Sorry for the confusion. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) BTW:

My Comp Cams Catalogue is a 98 catalog & shows the XR276HR-10 cam to be exactly what was posted earlier...w/the exception of his .506 lift as my catalog has the exhuast lift at .510......everything else is identical as to his earlier post. Remember; when you're considering components for CFM you need to calculate the formula: a) "RPM x Displacement/3456" Once you have that answer divide it by the "#" of cylinders on your engine...in this case there are "8" cyl's. c) After you get that answer multiply it by 1.5; this "1.5" factor is a mild correction & takes into consideration the restrictions placed on airflow by the intake runners. The final answer gives you what each cylinder must flow w/the intake & exhaust combined. Run the formula & you'll see that your combo is definately gonna suffer on the low end as those cyl.heads are flowing way more air than you'll be needing at low rpm's. Your engine package (Camshaft/Intake/Carb) should be based on a total package deal & not just the "Cool Factor" of having a neat engine: (I too want a 377). If you want to take the "Guess" work out of which cam to use you first have to decide: 1) Your basic RPM (most often driven rpm/mph) 2) Vehicle Weight 3) Transmission 4) Rear Gears 5) Tire Size (6) Another possible variable is/if you plan on racing your car; what are your expectations in the 1/4 mile. This is sometimes a good reference as to how fast a car is compared to other cars. Once you know the answers to the above you can then pick a camshaft that will allow your engine's powerband to peak at the appropriate RPM in a given environment; voila-No Guess to it/kind of scientific once you think about it! If you'ld like help choosing a cam....just post (on this thread): 1)What your car weighs, 2)What trans you are going with, 3)What you'ld like your car to run in the 1/4 4)What size tires you're going with With that in mind we can determine what rpm's you'ld be doing at the 1/4 mile traps; once we know you're rpm's we can then look at an appropriate cam. Kevin, Yes,Still an Inliner)

As a starting point/to know what you want you first must know what you have. Especially if attempting to diagnose a faulty clutcvh master or slave cyl. I always check w/a flashlight the actual pedal travel (in inches) then jack up the car & slide under to measure the travel of the slave cyl. while someone else pushes in on the pedal. Once you have these two figures you then will have a better idea of what your ratio is between the two. Just because your pedal moves one inch doesnt mean you slave will move one inch. I once had to "Fabricate" w/help of friends a Clutch Master Cyl for an older car (An AMC) where there were no NEW units being sold. I was able to purchase a new unit close to the old unit but the ratio was incorrect; the unit bolted up but the length of the clutch master cyl's arm was too short/so I had to know what length to add to the slave cyl.arm by using the above mentioned process. After all/said/done...it worked out nicely. Just my .02c's worth & hope that helped. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

I dont know if you're stuck on engine choices SBC or not SBC but a late 70's early 80's Chevy Malibu. They came w/the V8 Diesel! So if you find one-even if it has a gas engine in it-they should still have the bolt holes for that diesel....You ask yourself/why would I care about a diesel? Well, back then, GM's Diesel was based off a production Olds 455; the internals were made to run on diesel. So if you wanted, you could have all kinds of torque in a relatively light car by obtaining one of Joe Mondello's 455 Olds & put it in one of those cars. Or go a cheaper route & just go 350SBC...that's been done a lot w/those cars. Usually those cars were ragged on pretty hard by their owners & most everone that owns one didnt take proper care of them; so they should look like **** already. If you're lookin for a light car that is a sleeper/go 4door. No one ever thinks of the 4door sleeper! Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Remember....Pete knows what he's talking about; but, if his advise begins pushing you in the 11year timespan on a 6month temporary engine.....RETREAT/RUN AWAY/RUN FOR THE HILLS & dont look back! Sorry Pete/couldnt refuse that one! Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Thief! SOMEONE CALL 911! We got a thief in the house! Man you literally Stole that car! The body w/that interior alone is worth the $3k; w/the engines to boot! THIEF! Congrats on the purchase/heck of a deal! I paid $2.2k for my car & bought it from the original owner w/all receipts from purchase order upto the date I bought the car: & my car is not as nice as yours! Mine is straight but not pristine! I like that color & the clean interior. Really a great buy! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

I love opening a hi/po parts catalogue...I am totally a kid again: I WANT THAT, AND THAT, OH YEA-GOTTA HAVE THIS...ect,ect. Its always X-mas again when building a project after ordering the parts.....Till The Bill Comes In & you're instantly reminded you're not the kid but are the adult whose responsible for paying.....Dohh; I hate reality sometimes! I wish I had come across the V8z thing prior to having spent so much on Olds Custlass's in my past as I could've had his/hers HybridZ's by now. Oh,well/live & learn....now, where is my Summitt Catalogue? Kevin, (yes,Still an Inliner)

Hey Greg, GM-High Tech Perf. magazine did a rebuild article on the T-56 in their Sept 2000 issue & used D&D Performance Shop as their experts. It turns out that D&D sells not only parts for the T-56 but also the manual..specific manual for the T-56 only. D&D charges $20 for the manual/their address & ph# are as follows: D&D Performance 49676 Martin Dr Wixom, MI 48393 248.926.6220 Cant read all the fine print of the article's picture of the manual but it is a manual from "TTC" whoever that is. Hope that helps. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

I agree; "While you are There" & have easy access to it/definately throw in a set of main bearings....I would've suggested it earlier but didnt know what your definition of "Cheap Insurance" was. I've reused rod bolts before on a low perf.engine; you just have to make sure the threads are not stripped in anyway. Definatly would want to check or rpl the rod's as well; since you're doing the mains! When you do the timing gears dont forget to put in a new front timing cover seal....I mean as long as "You are There". Any preventive maintenance always translates into "Cheap Insurance". Before you throw the parts back together clean the threads as much as possible w/a wire brush & a parts cleaner of your choice; then just before you torque them down-dab a little oil on the threads for a proper torque reading. Good luck & have fun. Kevin, Yes,Still an Inliner)

Very glad to hear you got it running. Definately let us know what the problem was. I'ld kind of like to know how badly the problem was staring at you all this time/anyway that's usually how it is for me. I Pull my hair out/call the car some nice names & after I check/recheck/recheck my rechecks it usually turns out to be something "Right There" staring at me & making faces at me & usually something simple....I hate it when a gremlin does that to me. What's good about figuring something out is it rarely will get the best of ya the second time around! Let us know what it was!!!! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Pete "I love relays" Paraska You should see his "Fuse Box"....has a Huge Throw Switch. I think he robbed it from an abandoned warehouse! (just kidding) I agree; fuses or relays should always be used/added when warranted. The 20/30 year old wiring systems need all the help they can get. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

If the .22 shell was in the cyl.head does that mean that cyl.head is "Shot"...sorry/couldnt refuse a cheap laugh. If you've got the engine out just go ahead & rpl the timing gears/chain w/a steal set. You dont have to go crazy & buy a True Roller; but they are cheap enough/just the reassurance of knowing your engine will last the 6 mo's w/out jumping gears should be worth that much. Any maintenance should be done while the eng. is out. Gaskets; T-stat...ect,ect. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

ZFreak, I had the same scenario only a few weeks ago. BTW; Walmart & Pepboys sells a spark tester for about $5-$9's which anyone that plans on working on their own cars should have....as you now know-it could've saved you the price of that coil; & usually electric parts are non-refundable unless defect is due to the mfg. My situation was almost identical as yours; my car gave me no real warning...just quit running as I took off from a dead stop. The engine cranked but it wouldnt even attempt to start/no spit or sputtering...just cranked over & that was it/no start. I checked the spark w/my tester: its spark was hot & continuous. I then knew it wasnt getting fuel. I posed the question on this forum & got some good info for testing the pump. After jacking up the rear & supporting it w/jackstands....disconnect the +/- wire leads to the fuel pump; slide a car battery, known to be fully charged, as near the pump as possible & connect a jumper wire from both +/- of the battery to the correct terminals of the fuel pump...if its electrically good then you should hear it running. However that only indicates its running & doesnt indicate if the pump is pumping out the propper amount of pressure. My problem ended up being the Fuel Pump Controller Relay. I dont know what year your Z is & am not sure if you have the V8 or the inline. But check your fuses if your setup is an aftermarket set up for your V8 then you may have a fuel pump fuse; or if you still have the stock electrical setup then check your relays. There's three of them; 1)Fuel Injection Harness Relay 2)Fuel Pump Relay 3)Fuel Pump Control Relay. If you have a Factory Service Manual then it will tell you how to properly check each relay. Good luck/keep us informed as I am always curious what solution cures an electrical problem....always looking to learn from someone else's experiences when possible! Kevin (Yes,Still an Inliner) PS: Just re-read your post & noticed you mentioned "Throttle Body" guess that means you have a V8. Well; check the pump as I described. Definately replace the fuel filter if the pump checks out okay. If you need a fuel pump...a cheap one/go to a salvage yard...EFI pump usually are pretty much the same. They're either intank or inline which are outside the tanks and are what you want. Just try to find something comparable....still check for fuses & relays & your ground wires prior to forking over any money for a pump (Electrical Parts are not Refundable...especially at salvage yards!) If you do buy a pump at a salvage yard take your spare battery & jumper wires so you can test the pump prior to paying for it! [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 19, 2001).]