Ptero

That looks bad ass! Loving the black but not jealous of how quickly it gets dirty

I've been checking the FSM and am not seeing anything about travel distance of the slave. This is also the post '72 slave so it's auto adjusting unlike the prior models.

Car: '73 240Z Engine/tranny: L28/5spd My clutch abruptly decided to not fully disengage. I can be stopped and in gear having the clutch pedal all the way to the floor but the car will want to slightly move forward. I can also hear what sounds like some sort of on and off scraping sound when the clutch pedal is pressed down (what I would assume is the clutch disk grinding on the flywheel). I've adjusted the clutch free play which either gives me no shifting or the problem explained above. The master cylinder fluid was full upon first inspection. Is there anything to check on the slave? My next thought is to flush/bleed the clutch as the fluid didn't look great. Any other suggestions?

Any updates?

I can't remember the name of the colour. I'll check my paperwork later.

When removing the evaporation tank, is it necessary to connect any of those hoses back to the filler neck? Or is it possible to just plug all hoses? If plugged, does that just mean you can't fill your tank all the way? Any input is appreciated.

I really liked the look of that exhaust coming out the side. Apparently it was pretty loud though.

wow, what a find and what a price. Congrats on the purchase.

I'm planning on replacing the fuel lines on an l28et which has been sitting for 10 years. Who knows what kind of sludge is in there. I don't have the engine at my home at the moment so I can't go out to look at it. What size/sizes is the fuel line in the engine bay? Also approximately what length would be required to do all of the engine bay?

Agreed on the color. Absolutely amazing!

If there is anything we know about fads, it's that they come and go in a relatively short amount of time. I don't really think there needs to be a sub-forum for this style as we already have suspension & fabrication sub-forums which are both fitting for this topic. There are not that many threads that take it to the extreme but I don't see any harm being done to the forum for having them.

Looks like a fun project so far. I'll be at the same point as you come January as I'll be trying to start my l28et donor car. Good luck with getting the engine started.

4spd stock knob on a 5spd.

Engine going in the car has an automatic transmission and the car it's going into currently has a 5spd. I suppose I'll need to change over to the turbo clutch/flywheel. Anything else needed for the swap? I read somewhere about a spacer that needs to be removed as well but I can't seem to find that thread.

Forza 3 Forza 4 - '69 fairlady z 432

Wow that must have been amazing.

A friend of mine took some photos of my car a few weeks back and he did such an amazing job that I wanted to share some of his work. http://www.tristanfast.ca

I'm anxiously awaiting our first snowfall. Subaru for winter, 240z for summer. Best of both worlds.

I've got an l28et engine that has been sitting for an undetermined amount of time and in unknown condition. I poured some automatic tranny fluid into the cylinders to try and loosen things up and then put a bit more in a few days later. Today I tried cranking it by hand and I've run into a problem. Using a breaker bar I can get the crank bolt to move but it's pretty tough and the pulley doesn't move. I removed the bolt and it looked fine with no metal shavings on the thread (was looking to see if I was stripping the threads). The car is an automatic so I can't rock it back and forth to try and break it loose. I'm at a point where I could continue with the breaker bar and have one of 2 results. Either it cranks or I strip the threads. Do I have any other options (other than trying to start it with the ignition)?

I'm hooked.

Love these. Can't wait until they are release/if they are released.

Are the 83 t-tops the same as the 81?

Are you talking about the bolts by #43 & #45 in the below diagram? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=45 Mind explaining this one further? Such as the affects it made to the driving. Is there a quick way to find out if the wheel bearings are dry or is it a matter of tearing it all apart to find out?

I had an alignment done after new shocks/springs were installed. I still have the before/after numbers if that helps any.